Butterbrote and Butterbrodi

Germany and Russia

You may think these two countries are strange bedfellows, but when it comes to open-faced sandwiches, they are very much alike. That is because Russia imported the delicacies from Germany via Peter the Great, who did, of course, bring many more important things than sandwiches from the Western world to the motherland. So it’s butterbrot (singular) and butterbrote (plural) in German and butterbrod (singular) and butterbrodi (plural) in Russian. Too bad the two country’s mutual fondness for the sandwiches didn’t stop them from going to war.

Butterbrote have been enjoyed in Germany since the fourteenth century. The literal translation of butterbrote is “butter bread,” and as such—slices of bread spread with butter—are beloved as is, or better yet, crowned with savory ingredients such as meat, fish, fowl, cheese, vegetables, and herbs for lunch, a snack, or supper; or sweet toppings such as a sprinkling of sugar, a smear of jam, fresh fruit, or even chocolate for breakfast or a between-meals treat. While there are over three hundred types of bread in Germany, all of them delicious and any of them up to the task, the classic bread of choice is sourdough made with rye flour, and it can be toasted or untoasted.

In Russia butterbrodi are beloved for breakfast and lunch, and can be served on pumpernickel, rye, or white bread. However, when cut into nifty bite-size pieces, they are transformed into an elegant hors d’oeuvre called butterbrodik and are often an integral part of a sophisticated zakuski (an array of assorted appetizers). Of course, they are the perfect ballast for shots of vodka.

If you drop in unannounced at a Russian home, there is a good chance you will be served impromptu butterbrodi. The cook of the house will whip them up from whatever ingredients are on hand—including leftovers—but you will be none the wiser, as they will be beautiful and a perfect representation of Russian hospitality and ingenuity, not to mention a delicious taste of history.

The Bread

In Germany bread is more than just a staple food at breakfast ( Frühstück ), break time ( Pausenbrot ), and supper ( Abendessen ), it is an integral part and reflection of German culture. Each region of the country produces its own kind of bread, for a staggering total of more than 300 varieties of dark and white breads and 1,200 varieties of rolls and mini breads. That’s a lot of bread! Everyday breads tend to be sturdy and unrefined, using whole grains in their most unadulterated states. The most commonly used flour is rye, combined with another flour such as wheat or spelt. German breads can include oats, whole grains, seeds, cheese, meat, herbs, aromatics, and spices.

I like to use the pain de seigle (rye bread) from Le Pain Quotidien for my German butterbrote, as it’s similar to the basic country rye bread that you find in Germany. It’s the same shape as the pain au levain that I use for tartines, so once again, if you use the largest slices from the center, you will want to use half slices for your sandwiches, and then as you move to the smaller slices, you can use whole slices. If you prefer bread with seeds, Le Pain’s five-grain bread is awesome, and the square slices are the perfect size. The German brands Mestemacher and Feldkamp make long, thin slices of whole rye, three-grain, pumpernickel, and sunflower seed breads (among others), which are sold in one-pound packages in the refrigerated deli sections of most supermarkets. However, there are many excellent kinds of artisan German rye and pumpernickel sold at bakeries and supermarkets.

Bread occupies the same exalted status in Russia, where there is no staple as important as bread, specifically black bread, which is the quintessential Russian bread. In times of trouble—and there have been many of those in Russia—a piece of bread has made the difference between life and death, and even to this day a surfeit of bread is a symbol of wealth and health.

The traditional Russian black bread recipe reads like a laundry list of ingredients—rye flour enriched with coffee, chocolate, fennel and caraway seeds, bran, molasses, cider vinegar, and onions or shallots—with the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. There are other simpler black breads from Russia, as well as former Soviet republics. There are lots of Russian bakeries and supermarkets with Russian foods sections where I live, so I have no problem finding Russian black bread, but use the best dark rye you can find.

Chicken Schnitzel

Makes 4 butterbrote

As we all know, schnitzel—a thin piece of meat coated with flour, beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs and then fried—is a staple of German cuisine. While it is usually served on a dinner plate with a sauce or just some lemon, and a side of potatoes or spaetzle, it sometimes shows up atop bread as an open-faced sandwich. In Germany schnitzel is usually made with veal or pork, but I prefer chicken. A German lager might be the traditional beverage choice, but why not shake things up by offering a spicy red wine such as a Tempranillo from Spain or a Sangiovese from Italy?

2 whole or 4 halves boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil, for frying

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

2 eggs

1 cup plain dry breadcrumbs or panko

4 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

4 teaspoons butter, room temperature

4 teaspoons German brown mustard

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, for garnish

Place each chicken breast between 2 pieces of plastic wrap or in a large ziplock bag. Using the flat side of a meat mallet, pound chicken to a thickness of 1/4 inch. Season chicken generously with salt and pepper.

Set a cooling rack over a baking sheet. Line another baking sheet with paper towels.

Pour oil into a large, heavy skillet to a depth of 1/2 inch. Heat oil slowly to 375 degrees over medium heat. Meanwhile, place flour and paprika in a shallow bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Stir with a fork to blend. Place eggs in another shallow bowl. Beat with a fork to blend. Place breadcrumbs in another shallow bowl.

Dredge 1 chicken breast in flour, shaking off excess; dredge in eggs, allowing excess to drip back into bowl; dredge in breadcrumbs, shaking off excess. Place on the rack over the baking sheet. Repeat process with remaining chicken. Add chicken to the skillet (in batches if necessary; do not crowd) and fry until golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread each with 1 teaspoon butter then 1 teaspoon mustard. Cut whole breasts in half; leave half breasts as is. Top each bread slice with 1 schnitzel. Garnish with parsley and lemon and serve immediately.

Herbed Cream Cheese with Shredded Radish and Carrot Salad

Makes 6 to 8 butterbrote

Germans love flavored cream cheese. They especially love to spread it on bread and eat the bread as is, or use it as a base for other ingredients. My herbed cream cheese is an homage to this affection and would win over the most discerning German cream cheese–loving palate, I am sure. And it makes a delectable bed for a little grated vegetable salad. This recipe is light, fresh, and perfect for any time of day. The recipe yield varies depending on how thick you like to shmear your cream cheese. This would be excellent with a cold bottle of a lighter Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc such as Touraine or Cheverny.

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter, room temperature

2 tablespoons sour cream, room temperature

1/2 cup minced fresh thyme, chives, dill, marjoram, and/or parsley or any combination thereof, divided

1 small shallot, minced

1 large garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 carrots, peeled and grated

4 large radishes, grated

Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

6–8 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

Place cream cheese, butter, and sour cream in a bowl. Using a wooden spoon, mix until well blended. Add 1/4 cup herbs, shallot, and garlic and mix until well blended. Stir in salt and pepper, adding more if desired. Let stand until ready to use. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

Place carrots and radishes in a small bowl. Drizzle with enough oil to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with remaining 1/4 cup herbs.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Slather cream cheese generously on each bread slice. Top each with a mound of veggie salad and serve.

Sauerkraut, Sausage, and Cheese

Makes 6 butterbrote

I have combined several popular German ingredients in an open-faced sandwich that is inauthentic—at least as far as I know—but delicious. And while Germans may love sausages in rolls, I think they would find this amped-up riff completely irresistible! You can find precooked German sausages at most supermarkets, but if you cannot, feel free to use Polish kielbasa. Or if you prefer to start with uncooked sausages, boil them in beer to cook them completely, and then proceed with the recipe. Butterkäse is a mild semi-soft cow’s milk cheese that is primarily produced in Germany, but is also made in Wisconsin; Tilsit is a lightly aged yet more flavorful semi-hard cow’s milk cheese produced in Germany; both melt wonderfully. If you cannot find either, readily available Danish Havarti is a great substitute. Beer’s the ticket here—a German Weissbier or Belgian wit would be perfect.

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 (14-ounce) can, jar, or bag sauerkraut, drained

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 precooked Weisswurst, Bratwurst, or Knockwurst sausages, butterflied

6 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

6 tablespoons German sweet mustard

6 large slices Butterkäse or Tilsit cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh marjoram, for garnish

Melt butter in a medium-size heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until cooked through and slightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in sauerkraut and caraway seeds and cook until heated through, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to lowest setting and keep warm, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.

Preheat broiler. Heat oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add sausages cut side down in skillet and cook until browned on one side; then turn sausages and cook until browned on second side.

Set bread slices on a baking sheet. Spread each slice with 1 tablespoon sweet mustard. Divide sauerkraut evenly among bread slices. Set 1 butterflied sausage cut side up atop sauerkraut. Cover with cheese. Broil until cheese melts. Transfer to a platter or individual plates. Sprinkle with marjoram. Serve immediately.

Quark and Sautéed Apples with Lemon and Thyme

Makes 4 butterbrote

Quark is a fresh, soft, white, creamy, unaged, and unsalted cheese similar to the French fromage blanc. A bit of a cross between cottage cheese and yogurt, it is beloved in Germany as well as the countries of eastern and northern Europe. Israel too! It is a blank canvas upon which to paint a masterpiece of sweet or savory flavors. Apples are the most popular fruit in Germany, and here I sauté them and place them atop the quark for an unusual open-faced sandwich that rocks for breakfast, brunch, lunch, supper, or a snack. I like Fuji apples and do not peel them, but use any apples you like and peel them if you wish. Quark is available in many fine supermarkets; if you cannot find it, I have listed substitutes below. Chilled Prosecco would be lovely to drink here.

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

4 small apples or 2 large apples, cored, quartered, and thinly sliced

1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 small lemon, halved

4 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

8 tablespoons (1/2 cup) quark, fromage blanc, small-curd cottage cheese, ricotta cheese, or Greek yogurt

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme, for garnish

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel, for garnish

Melt butter in a medium-size heavy skillet over medium heat. Add apples and brown sugar and sauté until fruit is softened and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add spices, squeeze in lemon juice, and stir to blend well.

Grill, broil, or toast the bread. Arrange toasts on a platter or individual plates. Spread each slice with 2 tablespoons quark. Divide apples among toasts, making sure to include syrup from skillet. Garnish with thyme and lemon peel and serve immediately.

German Potatoes and Fried Eggs

Makes 6 butterbrote

While pan-fried potatoes German style—that means with bacon and onions—are most often an accompaniment to meat, such as schnitzel, I thought they would taste great on bread topped with a fried egg. If you like a lot of potatoes, use large Yukon golds; if you like a bit less, use medium-size ones. This is a perfect hearty breakfast sandwich of the open-faced variety. And if you like breakfast for dinner, you will love this dish! If it’s drinking time when you serve this sandwich, try a German lager or British ale.

8 bacon strips, diced

1 large onion, diced

4 medium to large Yukon gold potatoes, finely diced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sweet paprika

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

6 eggs

6 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, for garnish

Place bacon in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat and cook until thoroughly cooked to desired crispiness and fat has been rendered. Using a slotted utensil, transfer bacon from skillet to paper towels. Pour all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet; reserve fat.

Add onion to the skillet with the fat and sauté until browned and a bit crisp, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted utensil, transfer onion to a bowl. Add some of reserved bacon fat to skillet if dry. Add potatoes to the skillet in a single layer and season with salt, pepper, and paprika. Cover and cook until potatoes are browned and tender, about 20 minutes, turning potatoes halfway through cooking process and adding additional fat to skillet if dry (if potatoes do not fit in a single layer, cook in batches or divide between 2 skillets). Stir bacon and onions into potatoes and cook for about 3 more minutes. Keep warm over low heat.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Break in eggs and cook until whites are firm but yolks are still runny, or to your desired degree of doneness. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika.

Toast bread. Arrange toasts on a platter or individual plates. Mound potatoes atop bread. Place 1 fried egg atop each toast. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Scrambled Eggs with Sour Cream and Caviar

Makes 4 butterbrodi

A typical Russian butterbrodi is brown bread spread with butter and mounded with caviar. That might be a bit much for some tastes, so I have mitigated things with some scrambled eggs and sour cream. Dark rye or pumpernickel bread would be excellent here but so would light rye or brioche—toasted if you so desire. I have called for salmon roe, which is readily available, reasonably priced, delicious, and pretty. However, use any kind of caviar that suits your taste and budget. This would be a splendid brunch or supper dish. It’s hard to beat Champagne with this sandwich.

8 eggs

2 tablespoons half and half

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons butter, room temperature, divided

1 small red onion, minced

4 slices dark or light rye bread, pumpernickel bread, or brioche

4 tablespoons sour cream

4 tablespoons salmon roe caviar

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, for garnish

Crack eggs into a bowl. Add half and half. Season with salt and pepper. Using a fork or whisk, beat eggs briskly to break up yolks and incorporate half and half.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a medium-size heavy nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until softened, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add eggs and cook, stirring constantly, until eggs are set but not dry. Remove from heat. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Toast bread if desired. Arrange slices on a platter or individual plates. Spread each slice with 1/2 tablespoon of remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Divide scrambled eggs evenly among slices. Top each with 1 tablespoon of sour cream then 1 tablespoon of caviar. Sprinkle with chives, dividing evenly, and serve.

Chopped Livers, Sautéed Onions, and Hard-Boiled Eggs

Makes 6 butterbrodi

While chopped liver has come to be associated with the traditional cuisine of Ashkenazi (Eastern European) Jews, it is actually a dish that has long been popular with the general population of Russia and even Germany. It is rich, delicious, and easy to make. I like slightly chunky chopped liver, so I fold in the onions and eggs after I purée the livers, but if you like your chopped liver smooth, you can purée everything together. If you prefer things really chunky, you can put everything in a wooden bowl and chop it together with a mezzaluna, just like in the old country! This makes about 2 cups, so it makes a generous sandwich. This is also great with cocktail rye bread or crackers. Amontillado sherry is a superb match with this luscious dish.

5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

3 large onions, diced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound chicken livers, well-trimmed and patted dry

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped

6 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Heat 4 tablespoons oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook until melted and browned, stirring frequently, 30 to 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in another large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add livers, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until browned on the outside but still a bit pink on the inside, about 5 minutes. Let cool.

Transfer livers to a food processor and purée. Transfer to a bowl. Fold in sautéed onions. Fold in eggs. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Divide chopped liver among bread slices, mounding well. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Russian Salad

Makes 6 butterbrodi

Russian salad is one of the most traditional of all the dishes in the Russian culinary repertoire. It is an integral part of a zakuski , or an appetizer table, and is served on special occasions. Now it is beloved in many European countries, as well as Middle Eastern and South American ones. The original version, which contained more highbrow ingredients such as grouse and caviar, was invented in the 1860s by Lucien Olivier, a Belgian chef at the Hermitage, one of Moscow’s most celebrated restaurants. His mayonnaise dressing was revered, and he kept the formula a secret. The recipe became more accessible over the years, and the one below is pretty much the way it is made today, though normally chunks of ham would be mixed into the salad rather than slices laid underneath the salad. If you do not like ham, use slices of roast chicken, turkey, or beef. If you are a vegetarian, leave out the meat entirely. If you are a vegan, leave out the meat and use vegan rather than regular mayonnaise. This makes 6 very hearty sandwiches; if you are a dainty eater, you could make 8 sandwiches. A light ale would be great with this, but so would chilled Russian vodka.

2 large carrots, peeled and diced

2 boiling potatoes, peeled and diced

1 cup frozen green peas

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped

1/2 cup chopped cornichons or dill pickle

6 tablespoons mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

6 teaspoons Dijon mustard

6 long, thin slices ham

6 large leaves butter lettuce

6 green onions, minced, for garnish

1/4 cup minced fresh dill, for garnish

Bring a medium-size pot of water to a boil. Add carrots and potatoes and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add peas and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.

Transfer carrots, potatoes, and peas to a large bowl. Add eggs and cornichons. Add mayonnaise and fold to combine. Season very generously with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared up to 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Let sit at room temperature slightly before serving.)

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread each slice with 1 teaspoon mustard. Top each with 1 ham slice. Cover each with 1 lettuce leaf. Divide salad evenly among bread slices. Garnish with onions and dill and serve.

Crab and Corn Salad

Makes 6 butterbrodi

Russians have a special fondness for crab salad, and it is considered to be an elegant dish perfect for celebrations and special occasions. As with most Russian salads, a mayonnaise dressing is involved. Make sure to begin this lovely starter or light lunch dish at least 1 hour before you want to serve it. While the Russians would not offer this on toast, if you would like to do so, go right ahead! Either a lager or a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc would wash this down nicely.

1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over and shredded if necessary

1 lemon, halved

1 cup drained canned corn

1 large celery stalk, minced

1 small Persian or Kirby cucumber, minced

3 tablespoons minced red onion

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill

1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter, room temperature

Hard-boiled eggs, peeled and thinly sliced, for garnish

Sweet paprika, for garnish

Place crab in a bowl. Squeeze lemon over. Add corn, celery, cucumber, onion, dill, chives, and parsley to crab and fold gently. Add mayonnaise and fold gently to blend well. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour to allow flavors to marry.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread 1 teaspoon butter on each slice. Divide crab salad evenly among bread slices, mounding generously. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. Sprinkle with paprika and serve.

Smoked Fish with Horseradish, Chives, and Lemon Butter

Makes 6 butterbrodi

Smoked fish is a favorite in Russia and is often served atop a slice of buttered bread, sometimes with a bit of horseradish. Choose the fish that suits your taste and budget best and you won’t be disappointed. This sandwich is lovely for brunch or supper, or even as an appetizer before a simple meal. To drink, fill your iced steins with a fine German lager.

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, room temperature

4 tablespoons minced fresh chives, divided

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread

12 ounces smoked whitefish, sablefish, trout, or salmon

Combine butter, 2 tablespoons chives, horseradish, and lemon peel in a bowl and mix well. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Slather each slice with horseradish butter. Divide smoked fish evenly among bread slices. Garnish with remaining 2 tablespoons chives and serve.