A
Accommodation
Accommodation in Morocco varies widely and, apart from the large chain hotels and tourist resorts, most places do not have official star ratings. This does not mean, however, that they are not good quality. Many guesthouses and maisons d’hôte in places like Marrakech, Fez and Essaouira are of a four- or five-star standard and, though they may not have certain amenities like televisions, minibars and telephones, they are often much more characterful.
Bear in mind that prices fluctuate significantly between high and low seasons, and it is always worth asking about discounted rates during low seasons. Hotels in all price categories in Morocco are usually less expensive than in Europe and the US, except for the very exclusive. During peak periods in the most popular destinations, booking ahead is essential. Marrakech, the High Atlas and the southern and desert regions are most popular over Easter, Christmas and New Year. July and August are very busy on the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts, when much of Morocco as well as France and Spain take their summer holidays. During the Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira and the World Sacred Music Festival in Fez (both in June) accommodation is extremely hard to find.
Besides standard accommodation, there are dozens of camping sites spread across the country.
Admission charges
Visits to most of Morocco’s monuments and museums are subject to an admission charge. This is normally a small fee of about 10–30dh, with the exception of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, where the charge is currently 120dh, which includes a guided tour. The guide chapters in this book state where entry fees are charged, while in many other places even where official entrance charges aren’t levied it’s customary to tip guardians and caretakers who show you around.
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Budgeting for your trip
Morocco is not as cheap as it once was, but you can still count on enjoying a cheaper holiday than in most European countries. Here are some guideline prices:
B&B for two in a comfortable (but not luxurious) maison d’hôte: 600dh
Three-course meal with wine for two in a medium-priced city restaurant: 500dh
Daily (economy model) car rental: 300dh
Litre of petrol: 9.5 dh
Litre bottle of mineral water: 5dh
Bottle of local beer (33cl) in three-star hotel: 35dh
Airport transfer. Agadir: taxi 200dh. Casablanca: train 43dh, bus 20dh, taxi 300dh. Fez: taxi 120dh, bus 20dh. Marrakech: bus 30dh, taxi 70dh. Tangier: taxi 120dh.
Bicycle and moped hire: rates are negotiable, but average around 150dh a day.
Motorbike hire (125cc) costs from 400dh a day.
Buses: city buses have a flat fare of 4dh.
Long-distance coach (CTM), one-way: Casablanca–Marrakech 80dh; Marrakech–Ouarzazate 80dh.
Taxis: cross-town trip in a petit taxi about 10–15dh, depending on time of day.
Trains (www.oncf.ma): adult single, second-class Tangier–Rabat 101dh; Rabat–Fez 85dh; Rabat–Marrakech 127dh. First-class is 50 percent more.
Business travellers
Those visiting Morocco on business are well catered for in the larger cities with a range of hotels offering conference facilities and internet access for guests. Casablanca is by far the most important commercial centre in Morocco; it’s where most large Moroccan companies have their headquarters, and there is a sprinkling of regional offices of multinational companies in the city as well. Casablanca, more than anywhere else in Morocco, keeps a more European timetable. Elsewhere, Marrakech is the main centre in Morocco for conferences and trade fairs.
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Children
Moroccans adore children, and they are welcome everywhere, at any time of the day or night. However, few cities have attractions specifically aimed at children.
The most obvious kids’ attraction in Morocco is the beach. Agadir is easily the best set-up place for families and children, while Essaouira also has plenty to offers, especially for older children, with boat rides, camel treks, water sports and lots of other activities. The big resort hotels in Agadir (and sometimes in other parts of the country) also often have a good programme of child-oriented entertainment.
Away from the coast, things become more challenging. Marrakech, with its nightly circus-cum-fair on the Jemaa el Fna, horse-drawn carriages, colourful souks and great hotel pools is one possibility, while desert trips (perhaps with some camel- or horse riding thrown in) out into the Saharan dunes or less strenuous mountain walks might appeal to active and adventurous older children. Other adventurous possibilities include hot-air balloon trips from Marrakech and white-water rafting trips in the mountains.
Eating out can be problematic, particularly if your child has narrow tastes. However, a daily diet of omelette/chicken and chips can be reasonably nutritious when supplemented by fresh fruit, yoghurts and fresh fruit milkshakes. Pre-prepared baby foods can also be found, although usually only in larger shops and supermarkets.
If you buy milk to give to babies, you should boil it first or buy UHT milk, which is widely available. Formula is available from most good pharmacies.
Nappies (diapers) and baby wipes are sold in many of the larger grocer’s and in most pharmacies. ‘Pull-ups’ (trainer pants) are much more difficult to obtain, so bring these with you.
Climate
Three types of climate hold sway in three distinct regions. The coastal regions have warm, dry summers, are wet for the rest of the year and mild in winter: the coast is drier south of Agadir, where it is free of Atlantic depressions in winter (Agadir itself has a well-protected climate, with a narrow range of temperatures, but in common with the rest of the Atlantic Coast, cold offshore water can cause cloud and fog.) The mountains get hot, dry summers and very harsh winters; parts of the High Atlas are under snow well into the summer. The remainder of the country has a continental climate, getting hotter and drier in summer to the south, but moderated by the sea to the west. In the inland Sahara very dry, hot summers give way to warm, sunny days and cold (sometimes frosty) nights in winter.
All of which means that there’s no single ‘best time’ to visit Morocco – when you come will depend largely on what you want to do. Summer can be wonderful in the mountains when the snows have finally melted but murder in the desert, with temperatures rising into the 50C°s. Winter can be wonderfully mild in the desert, while the mountains are buried under several feet of snow. Away from the high mountains and the Saharan south, most of the country is generally most pleasant to visit in spring and autumn (roughly Mar–May and Sept–Oct, although, obviously, exact times vary, with temperatures rising as you head further south and inland).
What to wear
Dress for comfort, not for fashion. Light-coloured, lightweight cottons are advisable in summer. In winter, dress in layers, taking some warm clothes and a waterproof jacket. Hotels are rarely dressy, although some four- and many five-star hotels have formal restaurants in which men will feel more comfortable in a jacket and women in a smartish dress. When touring or sightseeing, let tact and discretion be your guide: keep skimpy clothes for the beach and remember that jewellery and fine clothes are the mark of a wealthy tourist in a poor country; expensive bags or cameras may also attract more attention than you would like.
From June to September the days are always hot, but evenings on the coast and in the north can be cool, so take a jacket or sweater. Also pack long-sleeved tops, a sunhat and sunblock. During the rest of the year a light jacket and a raincoat or umbrella will come in handy, while a warm coat for cold desert nights is essential. Modest clothing should be worn when visiting mosques and other Islamic monuments and in the medinas of towns, which are more conservative than the Villes Nouvelles. Women should cover shoulders and avoid wearing short or revealing clothing. You will not only be treated with a great deal more respect, but will find that your trip is far more enjoyable and relaxing. Scantily dressed women are unlikely to be seriously bothered, but will be stared at. Topless sunbathing is very rarely permitted even in private hotel grounds, and never on public beaches.
Crime and safety
Crime against tourists is not common, but neither is it unknown. Any guide in the packed souks of Fez and Marrakech will advise you to hold tightly to your bag. What tends to be most intimidating, especially in the imperial cities, is harassment from faux guides (literally, false guides) who try to force their services on you. The government has steadily clamped down on them for many years now and it is technically illegal to hassle tourists, so the problem has been dramatically reduced. The best way to deal with them if you don’t want their help is to decline firmly but with good humour. Above all, don’t become aggressive or confrontational. (For more information, click here.)
Avoid wearing expensive-looking jewellery, or carrying too much money: use hotel safe deposit boxes. If you’re on the move, use a secure pocket or money belt rather than a shoulder bag for valuables; if you do use a bag, sling the strap over your head, not just your shoulder.
In the highly unlikely event that you are attacked, don’t put up a fight: better to lose money than risk being hurt. If driving, don’t leave bags visible in the car, always lock your vehicle and leave it empty overnight. Better still, do as the locals do and have a gardien watch over it (5–10dh for short stays; 10–20dh for the night).
Loss of belongings
If any of your belongings have been stolen, a police report must be made. Do not be put off by hotel staff if they advise otherwise; insurance companies invariably require a local police report before they will entertain a claim for theft. If tour company representatives are on hand, they may be able to help, and should certainly be informed.
If your belongings do not arrive at the airport, it is the responsibility of the airline: ask for a Property Irregularity Form to fill in. Many travel insurance policies will then allow reasonable expenses on clothes and other essentials.
Customs regulations
When you arrive you will be given an official form to fill in, stating profession, address(es) in Morocco and length of stay. Each time you register at a hotel you are required to fill in a similar form, which is submitted to the police.
Customs procedure on entry will vary according to point of arrival.
Allowances
You can take any amount of foreign currency into or out of the country, but must declare on entry amounts over the value of 100,000dh. The dirham is a closed currency: it is illegal to import or export dirhams.
You are allowed to bring with you personal effects including jewellery, cameras, electronic equipment and phones. Foodstuffs and medicines in reasonable quantities for personal use may also be imported.
Duty-free allowances permit the import of 250 grams of tobacco or 200 cigarettes or 25 cigars; one litre of wine plus one litre of spirits; 150ml of perfume and 250ml of eau de cologne. For detailed and up-do-date information visit the Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ website (www.diplomatie.ma).
Extensions of stay
Contact the local police department well in advance if your stay is likely to exceed 90 days. Proof of funds will be required, along with reasons for staying. It is easier, at least in the north, to leave Morocco inside the 90-day period, and re-enter on a fresh visa.
Pets
An international health and inoculation certificate and a certificate of anti-rabies vaccination are both needed to take pets into Morocco. These will need to be certified by your nearest Moroccan embassy or consulate.
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Disabled travellers
Facilities for disabled travellers in Morocco are minimal. Only a few top-end hotels have specially adapted rooms, and many cheaper hotels do not have lifts, and so may have limited accessibility. Public transport is also difficult to use for those with impaired mobility – hiring a car is far preferable – while the narrow, crowded and irregular roads of a typical Moroccan medina also provide significant challenges, and visitors in wheelchairs are likely to be the object of many curious stares. The easiest plan of action is to arrange your journey in advance with a reputable tour agent –try www.moroccoaccessibletravel.com, who run dedicated accessible tours across the country.
E
Electricity
Most of the country’s supply is rated 220 volts, but some places have a 110-volt supply; sockets and plugs are of the continental European type, with two round pins.
Embassies and consulates
Embassies are found only in the capital, Rabat; elsewhere there are consulates.
Australia: The Canadian Embassy (below) provides consular services to Australians.
Canada: 66 Mehdi Ben Barka Avenue, Rabat-Souissi, tel: 0537-544 949, www.canadainternational.gc.ca.
Ireland: Honorary Consul of Ireland, 57 Bd Abdelmoumen, Rue Salim Cherkkaoui, Résidence Al Hadi B20, 5ème étage, Casablanca. There is another honorary consulate in Agadir. For details go to www.dfa.ie.
South Africa: 34 Rue Assaadiyines, Quartier Hassan, Rabat 10100, tel: 0537-68 91 59.
UK: 28 Avenue S.A.R. Sidi Mohammed Souissi, 10105 (BP 45) Rabat, tel: 0537-63 33 33, www.gov.uk.
US: Avenue Mohamed VI, km 5.7, Souissi, Rabat 10170, tel: 0537-63 72 00, https://ma.usembassy.gov.
Emergency numbers
Police (police secours): 19
Fire services (pompiers): 15
Ambulance (SAMU): 15
Highway emergency service: 177
Etiquette
It is worth bearing in mind a few simple guidelines when it comes to etiquette in Morocco. As it is forbidden for non-Muslims to enter virtually all mosques, it is also considered rude to peer inside mosques and religious buildings, especially during prayer times. For those mosques (Hassan II, Tin Mal) and medersas that can be visited, dress modestly, with arms and legs covered. Similarly, to avoid unwanted attention, women in particular should dress modestly in medinas, where sensibilities are more traditional. If invited to the home of a Moroccan, it is customary to bring a small gift (a box of patisserie is always appreciated). Always use your right hand for eating (the left is considered unclean).
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Festivals
The staple of festival life is the moussem: a local festival (or pilgrimage) in honour of a local holy man, though some are on a much larger scale, with ceremonial dancing and fantasias (displays of horsemanship). There are also folklore and harvest festivals in almost every village in Morocco, ranging from the Almond Blossom Festival of Tafraoute to the Date Festival in Erfoud. Music festivals are becoming increasingly popular – and incredibly numerous and varied, from the hugely popular Gnaoua World Music Festival (http://festival-gnaoua.net), held in Essaouira (for more information, click here), to the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music (for more information, click here) (www.fez-riads.com) and the lively Mawazine Music Festival in Rabat (for more information, click here) (www.festivalmawazine.ma), at which big-name international artists perform.
Moroccan festivals often provide the visitor with the best possible way to experience genuine Moroccan folk music, such as the music of the Gnaoua (for more information, click here), and dance, like the Berber women’s guedra dance, away from a tourist-oriented environment. They are also the cultural heart of Moroccan life, preserving traditions and passing them on for the next generation.
The fantasia is the most exciting of all Moroccan traditions, a breathtaking display of horsemanship. Charging horsemen perform daring manoeuvres and acrobatics, sometimes to the accompaniment of gunfire.
Calendar of events
The following is a list of all the major festivals, moussems and public holidays in Morocco. Exact dates should be confirmed in advance, as they change from year to year, with the exception of a few fixed national holidays. Note that most shops, banks and public offices are closed on public holidays.
Islamic festivals
The major nationwide religious festivals run according to the Islamic calendar, meaning that their dates according to the western calendar change constantly, falling approximately 11 days earlier year on year.
Mouloud (Milad un Nabi) National holiday commemorating the birth of the Prophet. 1 Dec 2017.
Eid ul Fitr Festival celebrating the end of Ramadan. 26 June 2017.
Eid al Adha Held 70 days after Eid ul Fitr, the ‘Feast of the Sacrifice’ commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his own son, Isaac, according to the command of god. 2 Sept 2017.
Fatih Muharram (Islamic New Year) 22 Sept 2017.
January
New Year’s Day Public holiday. 1 January.
Independence Manifesto Day Public holiday commemorating the manifesto demanding Morocco’s independence from France. 11 January. International Marathon, Marrakech.
February
Almond Blossom Festival Tafraoute, southeast of Agadir, celebrates the almond harvest, with music, dance and a souk. National Film Festival in Tangier and Sea and Dessert Festival in Dakhla.
March
Salé Moussem Festival in honour of marabout Sidi Abdallah Ben Hassan.
Marathon des Sables This desert marathon (www.marathondessables.co.uk) is an extreme endurance test: six days on foot over 200km (124 miles) of desert.
Rose Petal Festival A beautiful festival in El Kelaa M’Gouna (near Ouarzazate) celebrating the local rose harvest.
April
Printemps Musical des Alizés d’Essaouira Five days of classical music in Essaouira (www.printempsmusicaldesalizes.com), with concerts by top European performers. Late April/early May.
International Magic Festival Marrakech holds the largest magic festival in the world, with artists from all corners performing for four days.
Festival of Sufi Culture Celebration of Sufi mysticism in Fez with music and dance.
Ouarzazate International Film Festival (http://oiff.info) A three-day feast for cinema buffs in a city dubbed “the door of the desert”.
May–June
Labour Day National public holiday. 1 May.
Mawazine Music Festival Rabat hosts Morocco’s biggest music festival (www.festivalmawazine.ma) featuring big international artists.
Rose Festival The town of El Kelaa Des Mgouna in the Valley of the Roses hosts this three-day festival with celebrations including election of the Rose Queen.
June
Fez Festival of World Sacred Music (www.fesfestival.com). For more information, click here.
Benamar, Goulimime Moussem Festival commemorating Sidi M’Hamed featuring a large camel market; is both a religious and trading occasion.
Festival of Cherries Sefrou hosts another colourful harvest festival.
Gnaoua World Music Festival Essaouira is firmly on the cultural map with this weekend of fantastic Gnaoua and African music (www.festival-gnaoua.net/en/), which attracts thousands of people.
International Arts Festival Asilah’s popular arts festival, attracting local and international exhibitors.
July
Marrakech National Festival of the Popular Arts Five-day event with fortune-tellers, artists, musicians, dancers and theatre troupes from across Morocco performing at various locations around the city.
Moussem of Outa Hammou Chefchaouen’s religious festival celebrating the life of this holy man.
Feast of the Throne A national celebration of the king’s coronation. 30 July.
Timitar Music Festival (www.festivaltimitar.ma). Agadir’s festival is an ultimate celebration of Amazigh culture and world music which every year attracts some dozens of artists and about 500,000 spectators.
August
Moussem of Dar Zhirou Rabat.
Moussem of Setti Fatma Ourika Valley (near Marrakech).
Oued Ed Dahab Day Public holiday commemorating the return of the southern province of Oued Ed Dahab from Spanish control in 1979. 14 August.
Revolution Day A national holiday commemorating the revolution of 1953 and also the king’s birthday, which falls on 21 August. 20 August.
September
Boulevard des Jeunes Musiciens Festival Casablanca’s popular music festival (www.boulevard.ma), featuring Moroccan musicians.
Moussem of Moulay Idriss II Fez hosts Morocco’s largest moussem, attracting thousands of pilgrims to the saint’s tomb.
Imilchil Marriage Festival Now a world-famous event, where men and women from different tribes in the region can meet and become engaged.
Tanjazz Tangier’s small but perfectly formed jazz festival (www.tanjazz.org).
National Fantasia Festival Meknes holds a fantasia on an epic scale.
October
Taliouine Saffron Festival Annual celebration of the saffron harvest in the southern town of Taliouine.
November
Date Festival A moussem in Erfoud to celebrate the date harvest, so important in Morocco.
Green March Public holiday commemorating the anniversary of Morocco’s ‘march’ into Western Sahara in 1975. 6 November.
Independence Day Public holiday celebrating the day Morocco gained independence from France in 1956. 18 November.
December
International Film Festival Marrakech’s glitzy film festival (www.festivalmarrakech.info), with screenings and plenty of Hollywood movie stars.
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Gay and lesbian travellers
Morocco no longer offers visitors the free and easy attitude it once did towards homosexuality. What Moroccan law describes as an ‘unnatural act’ between two persons of the same sex is punishable by imprisonment (from six months to three years) and by fines, although the law is only loosely enforced, and you’re unlikely to run into trouble assuming you’re discreet. It’s also not generally a problem for same-sex couples to share a hotel room, although again discretion is the order of the day.
H
Health and medical care
Common ailments
Stomach upsets are the most common ailment: diarrhoea remedies or relief will come in handy. To cut down on the chances of getting an upset stomach, avoid food that has been left standing or has been reheated, and use bottled water in remote areas.
The next most common cause of illness is usually sunstroke, especially when combined with alcohol; light cotton clothing, moderate exposure and protective lotions all reduce the risk of sunstroke.
Medical services
There are private clinics in all main towns, along with government hospitals in many. Consulates will have details of English-speaking doctors, as will tour company representatives and staff at hotels. Be sure to come to Morocco with full medical insurance, including cover for repatriation. All services will be charged for immediately, except in cases of extreme need or emergency. Ask for and keep receipts.
Pharmacies in towns sell many kinds of medicines and contraceptives (usually, only sanitary towels are found in medina pharmacies; tampons are found in all Ville Nouvelle pharmacies). Medicines can be expensive: aspirin, insect-bite cream and stomach settlers are best bought at home and taken with you. There is at least one all-night pharmacy in each major town. Most pharmacies post the address of the all-night pharmacy on their doors. They are also published in most newspapers.
Vaccinations and protection against malaria
No vaccinations are required by the Moroccan government for entry into the country, unless you have come from a recognised infected area (eg a yellow fever, cholera or smallpox zone). For your own safety, however, inoculations against typhoid, polio, cholera and tetanus are advised by some doctors, especially if you are travelling in remote areas in the south, where a course of malaria tablets is also advised. There is a very limited malaria risk in Chefchaouen province, but anti-malarial drugs are not recommended, only the use of a good insect repellent.
Some protection against hepatitis may be useful if travelling in remote country areas. Injections of immuno-globulin give protection for about four weeks. Contact with standing fresh water (swimming or paddling in river valleys and lagoons) may carry the risk of bilharzia, which is caught from flatworms living inside freshwater snails, so take local advice. Rabies is present: seek medical advice immediately if you are bitten.
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Internet
Levels of internet access in Morocco are on a par with those you’d expect in Europe or North America. There are plenty of internet cafés in all towns and cities (usually charging around 4–10dh an hour). Wi-fi is also available in the majority of hotels (even budget places) as well as many cafés. Access in most places is usually free. There is good mobile network coverage across the country (event in the mountains) and the rates are relatively cheap so it’s a good idea to buy a local SIM card (you will need to show your passport to do so).
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Left luggage
For a small charge, luggage may be left at railway stations or offices of the Compagnie de Transport au Maroc (CTM): it should be safe.
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Maps
The reliable maps produced by European companies are: Hallwag (1:1,000,000), Lascelles (1:800,000) and Michelin Maroc (1:1,000,000). Also good is Insight Fleximap: Morocco (1:1,600,000), which is laminated and hard-wearing.
Large-scale topographical maps of the Atlas are difficult to obtain. In Morocco try the shop at 31 Avenue Hassan I, Rabat, or the Hotel Ali in Marrakech on Rue Moulay Ismail just south of the Jemaa el Fna. Maps can also be ordered online via sites such as www.mapsworldwide.com and www.stanfords.co.uk in the UK, and www.chesslerbooks.com in the US. Maps of Toubkal National Park are available at Imlil and Asni.
Media
Newspapers and magazines
Educated Moroccans are avid readers, and the country has a healthy selection of newspapers and magazines. The French Le Monde is printed and distributed in Morocco, while local French-language papers include the left-leaning L’Opinion (www.lopinion.ma) and the strongly royalist Le Matin du Sahara (http://lematin.ma). Weekly news magazines include the outspoken Telquel (https://telquel.ma). The two main French-language financial papers are L’Economiste (www.leconomiste.com) and La Vie Eco (http://lavieeco.com). Femmes du Maroc (http://femmesdumaroc.com), Citadine and Ousra are the main French-language women’s glossies. Marrakech Mag is a glossy magazine covering fashion and culture.
Listing magazines and city newspapers also exist, such as Clips Essaouira and Le Tribune de Marrakech, both of which can be found in most hotels and restaurants in each town. International newspapers and magazines are found in the larger hotels and magazine kiosks in the cities. English-language newspapers are usually no more than a day old in the main cities.
Radio and television
Moroccan TV consists of nine channels, of which the stupefying Al Aoula or TVM (the original government-run channel) is under pressure to make itself more interesting. 2m, originally a private channel that went bankrupt and was taken over by the government, has kept its editorial independence and is considered much better. Satellite television is common in homes and hotels across the country.
RTM runs a radio station which broadcasts daily programmes in English, Spanish and Berber as well as the more usual Arabic and French. It is complemented by Medi1 (www.medi1.com), which broadcasts from Tangier to the whole of the Maghreb. Radio 2m is a music station, broadcasting in the capital area and Marrakech. With a short-wave radio you will be able to pick up the English-language broadcasts of the BBC World Service and Voice of America.
Money
The Moroccan dirham (dh) is divided into 100 centimes (often called francs). In rural areas people often count in rials – which no longer exist (20 rials = 1dh). Recent official rates have hovered around £1 = 12dh, US$1 = 10dh. Check the Bank of Morocco official rate card, which is available at all money-exchange desks in hotels and banks.
You are not allowed to import or export Moroccan dirhams. Visitors can import as much foreign currency (in cash or traveller’s cheques) as they wish but must declare sums over 100,000dh.
ATMs
There are numerous ATMs accepting foreign cards in all Moroccan towns and cities – although most are concentrated in more modern urban areas, typically the Ville Nouvelle, rather than medinas.
Traveller’s cheques
Traveller’s cheques are becoming increasingly difficult to exchange in Morocco, and often attract sizeable commissions when they are. ATMs are now the most reliable and inexpensive way of getting cash during your stay. Most ATMs are located outside banks and are accessible 24 hours, although obviously it’s worth taking care when withdrawing sums from machines in quiet areas after dark.
Credit cards
Credit cards are accepted in many three-star and above hotels, the more expensive restaurants, most petrol stations and most car-hire firms – but it’s wise to check in advance.
Money transfer
Western Union money transfer is the quickest way (four hours) of obtaining money from abroad. Western Union has offices in major cities and also operates through Atijari Wafabank and the post offices.
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Opening hours
Business hours in Morocco are very variable, but typical times are:
Banks: Monday–Friday 8.15am–3.45pm (during Ramadan, 9am–2 or 3pm).
Many major branches of banks now incorporate money-exchange kiosks (with separate entrances) that have longer opening hours and are open over the weekend.
Offices: Monday–Thursday 8.30am–noon and 2.30–6pm, Friday 8.30am–noon and 3–6.30pm (during Ramadan, 9.30am–3 or 4pm).
Government offices close early on Friday and many private businesses open on Saturday morning.
Post offices: Monday–Friday 8.00am–4.15pm (though some close for lunch), Saturday 9am–noon (during Ramadan, 9am–2 or 3pm).
Many post offices have a desk selling stamps that is open through lunch time and into the early evening. Larger post offices have a telephone section that keeps longer hours (there are also many late-night téléboutiques).
Shops: Monday–Saturday 8–9am–12.30pm and 2.30–7-8pm (shops in medinas may keep shortened hours during Ramadan, possibly not opening until the afternoon and staying shut all day Friday, but staying open later in the evenings).
Some shops close on Friday (the Muslim holy day). In the Villes Nouvelles, shops often close on Sunday. Other shops remain open throughout the week. Generally, Western shops in the Villes Nouvelles will keep similar opening hours to those in Europe, opening a bit later in the morning but without closing for lunch.
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Postal services
In the past, visiting a post office in Morocco could take hours. Today both the post office and Maroc Telecom (the telephone company) have become a lot more efficient and easy to use.
The post office now has a separate Post Rapide service for national and international express parcel services. Stamps are widely available from tobacconists (tabac).
Public holidays
There are two sets of holidays, religious and secular: the former based on the Muslim (lunar) year (and therefore movable), and the other on the Western (Gregorian) calendar.
Religious holidays are as follows. For exact dates – they get earlier by 11 days each year (12 in a leap year) – consult the Tourist Office.
Muslim holidays
These religious holidays are observed by most businesses.
Edi ul Fitr (Aid es Seghir) Marking the end of Ramadan.
Eid ul Adha (Aid el Kebir) Feast of the Sacrifice; 70 days after Ramadan.
Islamic New Year (Fatih Muharram)
Mouloud (Milad un Nabi) The Prophet’s birthday.
State holidays
New Year’s Day – 1 January
Independence Manifesto Day – 11 January
Labour Day – 1 May
Feast of the Throne – 30 July
Oued Ed Dahab (Reunification Day) – 14 August
Revolution Day – 20 August
Green March – 6 November
Independence Day – 18 November
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Religion
Morocco is a Muslim country but is very tolerant of other religions. Christians account for about 1 percent of the population; there are Roman Catholic churches in most large towns and Anglican churches in Tangier, Rabat and Casablanca. Jewish synagogues can also be found in the main cities. Alcohol is not restricted by law (except during Ramadan), and many European habits of government and administration are followed. For example, New Year’s Day is a holiday and Sunday is the closing day for offices and larger shops. It is generally only in souks that shops close for Friday afternoon prayers.
Nonetheless, Morocco is a Muslim country, for all its compromises with Western calendars and customs, and never more obviously than during the holy month of Ramadan, when all Moroccans observe the daily fast.
Islam in the countryside is a peculiarly Moroccan hybrid – the faith of the Arabs adapted by the Berber tribes. There is more emphasis on individuals and saints than rigid Islamic codes would sanction.
In the city, the minarets of the mosques are a constant visible reminder of faith, and the call to prayer is heard five times a day. The mosque – and the wisdom and learning traditionally associated with it – are (often literally) central to town and city life. Qur’anic schools and conclaves of Islamic scholars reinforce orthodoxy, the most important tenet being that there is no God but God and Mohammed is his Prophet. There are no priests, no intermediaries: in praying five times a day, the Muslim is talking directly to God. At the same time, even without priests, centres of religious devotion have immense influence – and power. The king is the country’s spiritual leader, so never make jokes about the monarch.
The first and most visible element of rural Islam is the popularity of the marabout or local saint – visible, because the countryside is dotted with small white buildings with domed roofs. Each is the tomb of a local holy man; the tomb itself sometimes known as a marabout (otherwise called a koubba). Around these local saints, cults of devotion have grown up over centuries.
Rich cults have zaouia – educational colleges that were set up next to the marabout in the same way as a mosque set up a medersa – but as an alternative to the city-based orthodoxy taught at the mosque. Every cult has its moussem – an annual festival in honour of the saint.
The ninth month of the Muslim calendar was the one in which God revealed to Mohammed the truths, which were written as the Qur’an. In remembrance of this and in obedience to one of Islam’s ‘five pillars’, Muslims must observe a fast during the hours of daylight (for more information, click here). Non-Muslims are not required to observe the fast, but abstinence from smoking, eating and displays of physical affection in public is tactful.
Travelling in Morocco during Ramadan can be both rewarding and tricky, but knowing a few basic rules will help make things much easier. In most major towns and cities and especially in rural areas, everything will shut down around half an hour before the breaking of the fast, at sunset, and it will also be impossible to find taxis at this time and for about an hour after sunset. Most places catering to tourism will remain open. Be aware that sensitivities can be more pronounced during this sacred month, so dressing and behaving appropriately is important. If you are ever invited to break the fast with a Moroccan, accept – but be prepared for a long night of eating ahead of you.
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Smoking
Smoking is virtually a Moroccan pastime, and there are no restrictions on smoking in restaurants or cafés. For women smokers, it is worth bearing in mind that Moroccan women almost never smoke in public.
Students
There are few official discounts available to students in Morocco.
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Tax
Quoted hotel rates usually include VAT (TVA in French), but other local taxes – Taxe de Promotion Touristique (TPT) and Taxe de Séjour (TS) – may add between 10dh and 30dh per night.
Telephones
There are three main licensed telecommunications companies in Morocco: Maroc Télécom, Meditel and Inwi. Domestic and international telephone calls can be made from phone boxes (cabines) on the street, or in a main post office. Most take phone cards, available from post offices, tobacco shops and some grocery stores. Private payphone booths (téléboutiques) are widespread and efficient; they cost little more than a payphone on the street. There are many public telephones that also accept prepaid cards.
Most Moroccans, of course, have mobile phones, but Morocco’s ubiquitous and extremely useful téléboutiques are still widely used by locals and by visitors who don’t want to pay a fortune in mobile phone bills. Sim cards issued by the major mobile telecoms providers are readily available if you want to take advantage of local call rates (you will need to show your passport).
Telephone codes
0522: Zone of Casablanca
0523: Zone of Settat (includes Azzemour, Azilal, Beni Mellal, El Jadida, Ksiba, Mohammedia).
0524: Zone of Marrakech (includes Demnate, El Kelaa Mgouna, Ouarzazate, Oukaimeden, Safi, Tinerhir, Zagora).
0528: Zone of Laâyoune (includes Agadir, Guelmime, Sidi Ifni, Tafraoute, Tan Tan, Taroudant and Tiznit).
0535: Zone of Fez (includes Erfound, Er Rachidia, Guercif, Ifrane, Khenifra, Meknes, Moulay Idriss, Rissani, Sefrou).
0536: Zone of Oujda (includes Figuig, Nador and Saidia).
0537: Zone of Rabat (includes Khenitra, Moulay Bousselham, Ouezzane, Skhirate, Souk el Arba, Temara).
0539: Zone of Tangier (includes Al Hoceima, Asilah, Chaouen, Larache, Tetouan).
Telephoning home
Most exchanges are now automatic, and direct dialling abroad is now the rule. Dial 00 for an international call, wait for a second dial tone, and then dial the country code. The codes are as follows:
Australia: 61
Belgium: 32
Canada: 1
Denmark: 45
France: 33
Germany: 49
Great Britain: 44
Ireland: 353
New Zealand: 64
Portugal: 351
Spain: 34
United States: 1
Time zones
Moroccan time is the same as Greenwich Mean Time. Daylight Saving Time (DST, one hour ahead of GMT) is traditionally used during the summer between roughly late April and early October, although to confuse matters further DST is cancelled during the month of Ramadan, when the country reverts to GMT.
Tourist offices
Outside Morocco
Canada: Place Montreal Trust, Suite 2450, 1800 Avenue McGill College, Montreal QC H3A 3JS
Tel: +1 514 842 8111
Great Britain: 205 Regent Street, London W1B 4HB
Tel: +44 20 7437 0073/74
US: Suite 1820, 104 W 40th Street, New York 10018
Tel: +1 212-221 1583
In Morocco
National Tourist Offices (Office National Marocain du Tourisme, ONMT) are often complemented by a municipal Syndicat d’Initiative. Both can give out maps, advice and provide guides, but the ONMT are usually better staffed. Most offices are open Mon–Sat mornings from 8am.
Agadir: Immeuble Ignouan, Avenue Mohammed V
Tel: 0528-84 63 77
Casablanca: 55 Rue Omar Slaoui
Tel: 0522-27 11 77
Fez: Avenue Mohammed V
Tel: 0535-62 34 60
Marrakech: Place Abd el Moumen Ben Ali
Tel: 0524-43 61 31
Meknes: 27 Place Administrative − Meknès
Tel: 0535-52 44 26
Ouarzazate: Avenue Mohammed V
Tel: 0524-88 24 85
Rabat: Corner of Rue Oued Makhazine and Rue Zalaka, Agdal
Tel: 0537-67 40 13
Tangier: 29 Boulevard Pasteur
Tel: 0539-94 80 50
Tetouan: 30 Avenue Mohammed V
Tel: 0539-96 19 15
Tour operators
The Moroccan National Tourist Office (www.visitmorocco.com) provides a comprehensive list of tour operators. Here is a selection:
General
Abercrombie & Kent Tailored luxury holidays in Essaouira, Marrakech, Fez, the desert and the High Atlas.
Tel: 01242 547 760
Club Med All-inclusive activity and family holidays in Agadir and Marrakech.
Tel: 020 3811 1507
Natural Morocco Moroccan specialists offering a wide range of bespoke tours with accommodation in riad or kasbah-style locations.
Tel: 01239 710814
The Ultimate Travel Company Bespoke trekking, cultural and beach holidays across Morocco.
Tel: 020 3733 4503
www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk
Voyages Jules Verne Comprehensive programme of group tours throughout Morocco.
Tel: 0845 166 7003
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Visas and passports
Holders of valid British, US, Canadian, Irish, Australian, New Zealand or Schengen countries’ passports need no visa for a stay of up to three months. Make sure that the expiry date of your passport is not less than six months after your departure to Morocco, otherwise you may be refused entry. Crossing the border from Morocco (Western Sahara) into Mauritania is relatively straightforward, though you may have to wait for a few hours. Visas are needed and can be obtained from the Mauritanian Embassy in Rabat. The border crossing between Morocco and Algeria has been closed since 1994 with no sign of reopening.
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Websites
www.visitmorocco.com National Tourist Office (in English).
www.morocco.com Includes hotel booking and travel tips.
www.hipmarrakech.com Good list of riads and a restaurant guide.
www.bestrestaurantsmaroc.com Restaurant listings.
www.morocco-holidays-guide.co.uk Listings (sites, hotels) for the major cities.
http://riadzany.blogspot.co.uk Interesting ‘View from Fez’ blogspot.
www.moroccanfood.about.com Moroccan recipes galore.
www.moroccopedia.com Travel tips.
http://moroccantimes.com News website in English.
www.moroccoworldnews.com English news site dedicated to Morocco.
Weights and measures
Metric measures are used throughout Morocco: distances are in metres and kilometres, quantities in litres and weights in grams and kilograms, etc.
To convert = multiply by
Kilometres to miles = 0.621
Metres to feet = 3.28
Kilograms to pounds = 2.204
Grams to ounces = 0.035
If this all sounds like too much maths, it helps to remember that a kilometre is just over half a mile, a metre is roughly the same as a yard (3ft), a kilogram is just over two pounds, and 100 grams is a bit less than a quarter of a pound.
What to bring
Bring any prescription medicines you may need, and a spare pair of glasses (if you wear them). Remember that the sun can be fierce in summer, so it’s a good idea to bring a hat, sunglasses and sunblock (although these items can be purchased once you arrive).
Women travellers
Women travelling alone or with female friends often complain of unwanted attention from Moroccan men – although contrary to popular belief, Western women are no more likely to attract attention of this nature than Moroccan women. Although hard to avoid completely, a few simple common sense measures can keep the problem to a minimum. Dressing modestly is the most important of these. Short (above-the-knee) skirts or shorts and vest tops are best left at home; and assuming a confident manner on the streets can help deter all but the most persistent males.