BPG_Kos_1ed-13

Accommodation

Hotels. Hotels are classified from five stars down to zero. Ratings are dictated primarily by the common facilities at the hotel, not room quality, so a particular three-star room may be just as comfortable as a nearby five-star room, but the hotel itself may lack an events hall, swimming pool, spa or multiple restaurants on the premises.

Many hotels on Kos have contracts with European tour operators. This means that in peak season it may be difficult to find desirable accommodation. If you intend to arrive between late June and early September it is wise to book in advance. At the beginning and end of the season (April–mid-June and October) it is easier to get a good deal direct or through a booking site. Most hotels away from Kos Town, on Nísyros, and on Pátmos close from November to March. Interestingly, Léros has two comfortable hotels working year round, and some hotels on Kálymnos stay open during winter for rock-climbers. In peak season there may be a surcharge if you stay less than four days, or an absolute minimum stay.

One thing to beware of is the proliferation on Kos of mandatorily all-inclusive resorts. While notionally attractive to families, they seldom offer great value or great taste. We do not list any exclusively all-inclusive accommodation; however some of our listings do offer this as an option.

Domátia and apartments. Enikiazómena domátia (rented rooms) or full-sized apartments (diamerísmata) exist, especially behind the better beaches. Both licensed rooms and apartments are rated by the tourism authorities at from one to three ‘keys’ based on facilities. Arrivals by ferry or catamaran at Kos Harbour or Skála on Pátmos may be besieged by placard-waving accommodation touts; it is unwise to follow them, as only proprietors of substandard or unlicensed lodgings resort to this tactic, and you will probably choose to move the next morning.

Airports

Kos’ international airport (IATA code KGS, tel: 22420 56000) lies towards the southwest tip of the island, 24km (15 miles) from Kos Town. Its website (www.kos-airport.com) furnishes real-time arrival and departure information. One of the older Greek-island airports, it has scarcely changed since opening in 1964 and expanding in 1980, and is grossly inadequate for the current traffic in season. Chances for another makeover in the prevailing economic climate are slim. If your flight is delayed, there’s a pleasant snack bar just outside the airport grounds at the edge of Andimáhia village, plainly visible across the car park.

Between April and Oct, five times daily from 7.55am to 5.20pm (with one later service Tue, Thu, Sat), there is bus service (€3.20) into Kos Town, via Mastihári. During June to September, this increases to ten daily Mon–Sat 8am–11pm, but just three 9am–5pm on Sun. A taxi to Kos Town or Psalídi will cost €35–40 depending on time of day, number of bags and exact destination.

Kálymnos and Léros also have airports (taxi access only), currently receiving flights solely from Athens and nearby islands. The Kálymnos runway is set to be expanded to allow direct flights from overseas in future.

Bicycle and Scooter Hire

Kos is one of the few Greek municipalities which actively caters to cylists. Psalídi is linked with Lámbi by a popular bike lane, though going through Kos Town itself there are hazardous discontinuities around the inner harbour. Beyond Lámbi or the edge of Kos Town, smart cyclists use the back-roads to get to Tingáki and Marmári, not the lethal main island trunk-road. There are so many agencies renting pedal-bikes on Kos that you practically trip over them. Rates range from €5 per day for the most basic, five-gear bone-shaker to €20 for a top-end, multi-speed mountain bike.

Hiring a small motorbike is popular for cruising the resorts and immediate environs; rates are €15–18 per day for a 50cc machine, lower for three days or more. However, they’re not really suitable for covering long distances on Kos, and every year sees serious injuries and fatalities involving riders.

It is illegal in Greece to drive any scooter – even a 50cc one – without a full A1 or A category motorcycle licence (British license categories AM, p and Q with scooter entitlement are not recognised), though many agencies ignore this law. If you hire a two-wheeler without the appropriate licence, any insurance you have will be void if you are injured or involved in an accident. Agencies may offer you a quad bike as an alternative, at somewhere between the rental cost of a scooter or a car. They are slow and actually less safe than a two-wheeler – thus helmets are issued; the Greek slang for them (gouroúnia, or swine) is indicative of their low status.

All riders must wear helmets (stiff fines for non-compliance; agencies offer wonky ones) and should proceed with caution, particularly where sand or gravel make road surfaces slippery.

Budgeting for Your Trip

Kos and neighbouring islands are moderately expensive destinations by European standards.

Flight Athens–Kos: €70–160 (one-way by season).

Boat ticket Athens–Kos: €56 (one-way, deck class) to €79 (one-way, cheapest cabin).

Day trip to Nísyros: €24 from Kardámena, €30 from Kos Town

Mid-range hotel: €55–100 (one night for two).

Mid-range restaurant: €22–35 (full meal for one).

Luxury hotel: €100–210 (one night for two)

Admission charges: €2–5 (museums and archaeological sites).

Car rental: €30 per day on Kos, €190 per week (small car in peak season, walk-in rate).

Litre of fuel, diesel/normal/super €1.25/1.60/1.90

Bus fare: ticket prices range from €2–4.40 on Kos, less on Pátmos or Kálymnos.

Car Rental (see also Driving)

Advance booking online typically results in savings of up to half off of walk-in rates. Recommended aggregator sites include www.comparecarrentals.co.uk, www.rentalcargroup.com and www.cardelmar.com.

Reputable local agencies give reasonable service and keener pricing than major international chains. Two recommended ones in Kos Town are Safari, corner Harmýlou and Karaiskáki, tel: 22420 21023, www.safari-rentacar.gr, and Autoway, Vassiléos Georgíou 18, tel: 22420 25326, www.autowaykos.gr; on Kálymnos, we suggest Auto Market in Póthia (tel: 22430 24202, www.kalymnoscars.gr).

A national driving licence, held for at least one year, driver age over 21, is accepted for EU/EEA nationals. Other nationals must carry an International Driving Permit in addition to their home licence. You will also need a credit card to avoid paying a large cash deposit.

Quoted rates should include VAT and CDW (Collision Damage Waiver). However, all agencies have a waiver excess of between €400 and €800 – the amount you are responsible for if you smash a vehicle, even with CDW coverage. It is strongly suggested you purchase extra cover (often called Waiver Excess Insurance) to nullify this risk. Daily rates offered by agencies themselves are expensive; it’s far more advantageous to get a waiver excess policy in advance – by the year or by the day – through specialists like www.insurance4carhire.com or www.carhireexcess.com.

Climate

Global climate change makes generalising about Aegean weather unwise, but you still stand an excellent chance of blue, rain-free skies between late May and mid-October. Midday temperatures may reach a sweltering 38ºC (101ºF) during summer, with warm nights, although evenings are cooler early and late in the season when daily highs are about 30° C (86° F).

The northerly meltémi wind buffets the northwest coast of Kos, cooling it significantly all season. Kálymnos, Léros and Pátmos can also be very breezy, though Pátmos’ east coast (where most beaches are) is relatively calm.

The first autumn storm usually hits late September or early October, but serious rain does not commence until December, falling intermittently until May. Winter outdoors can be very pleasant but the sea is too cold for most bathers until late April.

Clothing

In summer you require little clothing. Cotton shorts or lightweight trousers and T-shirts or lightweight dresses are fine for sightseeing. Bring comfortable shoes for archaeological sites, plus a hat and sunglasses. If you have forgotten anything, boutiques in Kos Town and Póthia are well stocked (if not remarkably cheap outside sale periods).

When visiting churches or monasteries, both men and women should cover their shoulders; men should wear long trousers, and women a skirt that covers their knees.

Very few tavernas have a dress code, although smarter hotels require long trousers for men at dinner. A light wrap or jacket is useful for evenings in early or late season, while a wind-cheater is good for the decks of excursion boats or catamarans.

Crime and Safety

Kos and neighbours rate relatively well both in terms of personal safety and the security of belongings. But it is still prudent to lock valuables in your room safe, and not to leave phones, tablets, etc. unsupervised on the beach or even in a locked rental car – break-ins are increasing. Don’t accept rides from strangers when returning late from clubbing, and always use official taxis.

If you do fall victim to crime, contact the ordinary local police – insurance claim forms will not be valid without their report.

All obvious recreational drugs are illegal in Greece, and those arrested on narcotics charges can spend up to 18 months on remand before charges are filed. If you take any prescription painkiller or tranquilliser, carry your supply in the original pharmacy container.

Driving

Road conditions. Kos main roads are mostly paved but still dangerous, especially the main trunk road between Kos Town and Kéfalos, too narrow for its traffic load and venue for many accidents. Local driving habits leave much to be desired; favourite tricks to watch for include barging out of side roads without looking, overtaking on one’s right, and oncoming vehicles driving in the centre of the pavement. Most of Kos can be visited by normal rental car, though a few remote beaches are best approached by jeep. Adjacent islands present no special road problems.

Signage, and advance notice for turnings, is acceptable at best. Since many place-names have been transliterated idiosyncratically into Roman lettering and signposted at different times, you may find the same village name or attraction written different ways, only one rendition agreeing with your map. Similarly, distances may yo-yo up and down as signs do not keep pace with road-straightening works.

Brown signs with yellow lettering indicate an archaeological site or other monument – not all of them are must-sees.

Are we on the right road for…? Páma kalá giá…?

Full tank, please. Óso pérni, parakaló.

super/lead-free/diesel soúper/amólyvdis/dízel

Check the oil/tires/battery. Na elénxete ta ládia/ta lástiha/ti bataría.

My car has broken down. I amáxi mou éhi páthi vlávi.

There’s been an accident. Égine éna atýhima.

Rules and regulations. Traffic drives on the right and passes on the left, yielding to vehicles from the right except at roundabouts where one supposedly yields to the left (often countermanded by confusing stop-or-yield-sign schemes). Speed limits on open roads are 90km/h (55mph) and in towns 50km/h (30mph) unless otherwise stated, although most locals ignore these. Speed-limit and distance signs are in kilometres.

Seat-belt use is compulsory (€175 fine for non-use), as are helmets when riding any two-wheeler (identical fine for non-compliance). Drink-driving laws are strict – expect fines of €400–700 and licence loss if caught – and breathalyser checkpoints proliferate at night and weekends. All cars must carry a reflective warning triangle, a fire extinguisher and a first-aid kit; some rental companies skimp on these. Fines must be paid within ten calendar days at a post office, with proof of payment taken to the designated police station, where your licence may be held to ransom meanwhile.

Kos Town and Póthia are full of one-way systems, which many scooter-riders (and some car-drivers) disregard. Many – especially young conscripts driving army trucks – are inexperienced and may not be insured. Give them a wide berth. Pedestrians often step out into the roadway without looking.

Parking space is tightly controlled and hard to find in the business districts of both Kos Town and Póthia. Rather than try to decipher posted rules or find tickets, just park free in the residential districts and walk into the centre. Parking along Kos harbour quay is banned except along one wall of the castle. In Skála Pátmos, it is prudent to use the free public car park behind Theológos beach.

Breakdowns and accidents. If you have an accident or breakdown, put a red warning triangle some distance behind you to warn oncoming traffic, then ring your rental office. They will probably come out to you themselves rather than summoning one of the emergency roadside services.

If an accident involves another vehicle, do not admit fault or move either car until the police come out and prepare a report; a copy will be given to you to present to the rental agency. It is an offence to leave the scene of an accident, or move either vehicle before this has been done.

Road signs. Most road signs are the standard pictographs used throughout Europe but you may also see some of these written signs:

Electricity

Electrical current is 220–240 volts/50 cycles. Plugs are of the Continental two-prong type. Adaptor plugs are available, but it is best to buy one before you leave home – UK-to-Continental are much harder to find than North-American-to-Continental.

an adapter énas prosarmostís

Embassies and Consulates

There are no consulates of any English-speaking country on the islands in this guide. All national embassies are located in Athens.

Australian Embassy & Consulate: Corner Kifissías and Alexándras avenues, Level 6, Thon Building, 115 23 Ambelókipi; tel: 210 87 04 000, http://greece.embassy.gov.au/athn/home.html

British Embassy & Consulate: Ploutárhou 1, 106 75 Athens; tel: 210 72 72 600, http://ukingreece.fco.gov.uk/en.

Canadian Embassy: Ethnikís Andistáseos 48, 152 31 Halándri; tel: 210 72 73 400, www.canadainternational.gc.ca/greece-grece/index.aspx?lang=eng

Irish Embassy: Vassiléos Konstandínou 7, 106 74 Athens; tel: 210 72 32 771, www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/greece/.

South African Embassy & Consulate Kifissías 60, 151 25 Maroússi; tel 210 61 78 020.

US Embassy & Consulate: Vassilísis Sofías 91, 115 21 Athens; tel: 210 72 12 951, http://athens.usembassy.gov.

Emergencies

The following emergency numbers are valid on the islands.

Police: 100

Ambulance: 166

Fire: 199

Coast guard: 108

Forest fire reporting: 191

Gay and Lesbian Travellers

Greece has historically been a very conservative country where traditional family relationships are a core value. However, the wide variety of international tourists arriving on Kos means that gay and lesbian visitors are taken in stride. That said, there are no exclusively, or predominantly, gay clubs or beaches.

Getting There

By air. Direct scheduled services from Britain, between March and October, include easyJet (www.easyjet.com) from Gatwick and Glasgow; Jet2 (www.jet2.com) from East Midlands, Leeds/Bradford and Manchester; and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) from Liverpool and London Stansted. British Airways (www.britishairways.com) arrives from Heathrow Tuesday and Saturday from early May to late September.

From North America, you must reach Athens first and then continue for another 50min on the sole airline on the domestic route: Aegean (www.aegeanair.com). Flights fill quickly in summer – even business sells out – and must be booked well in advance. Check the competition, Astra (www.astra-airlines.gr), to see if they have begun flying in from Athens; they already do from Thessaloníki.

From the UK, Aegean and BA provide scheduled full-service flights to Athens. Direct flights from North America to Athens are provided only by Delta Airlines (www.delta.com) from JFK, and seasonally from Philadelphia by US Airways (www.usairways.com).

From Australia and New Zealand there are only indirect flights; the most reliable providers are Etihad Airways (www.etihadairways.com), Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com) and Emirates (www.emirates.com).

By boat. Kos is connected to Piraeus, Athens’ main port, by three to six weekly car and passenger ferries; frequency is highest during summer. Boats can be crowded at peak times – buy tickets for cars or a cabin as far in advance as possible. A good online resource for checking schedules is www.gtp.gr.

Currently just one company, Blue Star (www.bluestarferries.gr), serves this route. Journey time varies: 10.5 hours with an intervening stop only at Santoríni, 11.5 hours via Pátmos and Léros. There are also links with many other Dodecanese on the catamarans Dodekanisos Pride and Dodekanisos Express (www.12ne.gr/el/). Kálymnos and the westerly Kos port of Mastihári are linked two or three times daily by ro-ro ferry.

Guides and Tours

On nearby Rhodes, Triton Holidays (Plastíra 9, Rhodes Town; tel: 22410 21690; www.tritondmc.gr) can arrange discounted quality accommodation on Nísyros, Kálymnos, Léros and Pátmos, plus all necessary transfers between islands.

Health and Medical Care

Emergency treatment is given free at state hospital casualty wards (ask for the thálamo epigón peristatiká) to EU residents, who must carry a European Health Insurance Card, obtainable in the UK online at www.ehic.org.uk.

Kos’ state hospital is in town on Venizélou, just south of the ancient agora. But public health provision is in free-fall across Greece, with dire shortages of medicines and material, so if you are privately insured, go instead directly opposite to Kos Medicare at no. 5 (tel: 22420 23330, www.kosmedicare.gr), with a branch in Kardámena (tel: 22420 92770), plus their own ambulance which can be summoned 24hr. There are also state hospitals on Kálymnos and Léros, but only rural clinics on Nísyros and Pátmos.

If you have a minor problem, look for a pharmacy (farmakío), identified by a green cross; most pharmacists speak some English. Pharmacies open Mon–Fri 8am–2pm; outside of these hours only duty pharmacies operate. A roster of the day’s after-hours pharmacies should be posted on the door of each pharmacy.

Mosquitoes can be a nuisance all season. Topical repellent is useful from dusk onwards; accommodation proprietors often provide insecticide tablets vaporised by a plug-in device. Spiny sea urchins on submerged rocks can injure inattentive swimmers. Avoidance is the best tactic, but failing that, dig out the spine tips with a sterilised sewing needle and olive oil.

The Greek sun is strong; limit your exposure time, apply sunblock (SPF 30+) regularly and use a hat. Children’s skin should be especially well protected.

Kos tap water is safe to drink, and the central mountain has two popular, potable springs; Póthia (Kálymnos) has street-corner, purified-water machines to fill bottles, some free, some coin-op; Pátmos has excellent artesian water, on tap at Skála marina and at Kámbos. Otherwise, bottled water is universally available. Always carry water to the beach or when sightseeing to prevent dehydration.

Language

The sounds of the Greek language do not always correspond to exact equivalents in English, and some letters of the Greek alphabet do not have a precise match in the Roman alphabet. This explains inconsistent spellings on road signs – for example, ágios may be spelled ághios and áyios in the Roman alphabet, although it is always pronounced the same. Accentuation is also essential when pronouncing Greek. Throughout this book we have accented vowels within each word to show which syllable to stress, except for one-syllable words.

People working anywhere near the tourist industry will have a basic English vocabulary, and many speak English very well.

The table below lists the 24 letters of the Greek alphabet in their upper- and lower-case forms, followed by the closest individual or combined letters to which they correspond in English.

Maps

You’ll find free advertiser maps at hotels, Kos airport and car-rental offices, adequate for Kos Town only. The sole maps of Kos and the surrounding islands worth buying are produced by Terrain (www.terrainmaps.gr; all islands in this guide at scales 1:20,000–1:45,000) or Anavasi (www.anavasi.gr; Kos, Kálymnos, Pátmos, scales 1:20,000–1:60,000). They are only sporadically available on the islands concerned, so ideally obtain them in advance.

Media

Newspapers. You will be able to buy all major European newspapers at resort newsagents. A reliable outlet in Kos Town is Newsstand, just off Platía Eleftherías on Ríga Fereoú.

Television. Most hotels of three stars and above have a range of satellite channels, including CNN and BBC World. The Greek state channel ET1 often has foreign films in the original language after 10pm.

Money

Currency. For the moment, Greece still uses the euro (abbreviated €), with notes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 100 and 500 euros; each euro comprises 100 cents and coins have denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents plus 1 and 2 euros.

Currency exchange. Most banks and some agents exchange foreign notes, but commissions are comparable to ATMs (see below) and queues long, so preferably obtain cash from an ATM. Exchange rates, the same everywhere, are usually posted on a digital noticeboard inside the bank or in the window.

Travellers cheques: Not recommended – expect severe delays or outright refusals in banks or travel agencies.

ATMs. All resort areas, and larger inland settlements, have at least one ATM, accepting most debit or credit cards. Despite commissions levied by your home bank, this is the most convenient and quickest way to get cash – although machines may run out of notes at weekends. If given an option, always take euros at your own bank’s exchange rate – do not let the machine do this, you will lose about 3 percent more.

Credit cards. Many hotels, restaurants, filling stations, travel agencies and shops accept credit cards, but as many do not. Some collect 3–5 percent extra for credit card payments, to cover bank charges.

I want to change some pounds/dollars. Thélo na alláxo merikés líres/meriká dollária.

How much commission do you charge? Póso promýthia hreónete?

Can I pay with this credit card? Boró na pliróso me avtí tin pistotikí kárta?

Opening Times

Opening hours differ for official bodies and private businesses. They also vary significantly between high and low season. To be sure of service or admission, appear between 9am and 1pm, Tues–Fri.

State museums work Tue–Sun 8.30am–3pm; private ones vary. Most archaeological sites are open continuously until 8pm during summer but close much earlier in winter. Last admissions are 20–30 minutes before the official closing time; we cite the last admission time in this guide.

Banks operate Mon–Thu 8am–2.30pm, Fri 8am–2pm. Smaller shops work Mon–Sat 9am–2.30pm, plus Tue, Thu and Fri 5.30pm–8.30pm (6–9pm in midsummer); supermarkets are open year-round 7/8am–9pm Mon–Fri, 8am–7/8pm Sat. A few also open 11am–4pm on Sunday. In peak season tourist-orientated shops stay open daily until late. Filling stations work daily 8am–9pm in summer (closing 8pm otherwise); many close altogether on Sunday.

Police

Ordinary police, including traffic police (trohéa), wear a two-tone blue uniform. The tourist police is a special branch dealing with tourist problems and complaints. They speak English and wear dark grey uniforms.

Emergency: tel: 100

Non-emergency (Kos Town): tel: 22420 22222

Tourist police: Aktí Miaoúli 2, Kos Town, tel: 22420 26666

Where’s the nearest police station? Pou íne to kondinótero astynomikó tmíma?

Post Offices

Post offices (Mon–Fri 7.30am–2.30pm) are indicated by a yellow-and-blue stylised Hermes head and the initials ELTA (ΕΛΤΑ in Greek). The Kos Town and Póthia (Kálymnos) post offices are marked on our maps. Allow 4–7 days delivery time for postcards to Europe, 9–14 days for the rest of the world.

Public Holidays

Official holidays, when everything will be shut, are as follows:

1 January New Year’s Day (Protohroniá)

6 January Epiphany (Ágia Theofánia)

25 March Greek Independence Day/Annunciation (Evangelismós)

1 May May Day (Protomagiá)

15 August Dormition of the Virgin (Kímisis tis Theotókou)

28 October ‘No’ or ‘Ohi’ Day

25 December Christmas Day (Hristoúgenna)

26 December Sýnaxis tis Panagías (Gathering of the Virgin’s Entourage)

Movable official holidays include the first day of Lent (Clean Monday; 48 days before Easter Sunday), Good Friday, Easter Monday and Pentecost (Whit Monday, tou Agíou Pnévmatos; 50 days after Easter Sunday).

Religion

Most islanders belong to the Greek Orthodox Church, though there is a significant Muslim minority on Kos, with three of the five mosques used regularly. Mass schedules are posted outside the one Roman Catholic church, Ámnós tou Theoú, southwest of Kos Town.

Telephones

The international code for Greece is 30. Land-line numbers have 10 digits; the first five digits, beginning with 2, tell you which island or town the phone is in. Greek mobile numbers begin with 69 and also have 10 digits.

Card-operated telephone booths are noisy and almost extinct. Rather than use OTE (the Greek telecoms entity) calling cards, most people buy prepaid discount calling cards with free access numbers prefixed 807 (reachable from any call box or private phone) and a 12-digit PIN. Rates are similar to using Skype to a land line. Hotels levy ruinous surcharges for ordinary direct-dial calls; usually, switchboard circuitry permits use of discount cards from room phones.

Mobile users can roam on any of three local networks, and with 2015 reductions in roaming charges within the EU, both making and receiving calls, or texting, is affordable. Do not let non-EU Turkish mobile providers across the narrow straits ‘grab’ your number; you will have an unpleasant surprise come the next bill. Only if holidaying for more than a week might you consider buying a Greek SIM. It (and the phone) must be registered at purchase, but credit remains valid for six months from each top-up, the number for a year.

Time Zones

Greece is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time and also observes European Daylight Saving Time – moving the clocks one hour forward at 3am on the last Sunday in March, one hour back at 3am on the last Sunday in October.

New York London Jo’burg Kos Sydney Auckland

5am 10am 11am noon 7pm 9pm

Tipping

Service is included in restaurant and bar bills, but it is customary to leave 10 percent of the bill on the table for wait-staff.

Taxi drivers are not tipped per se except at Easter week, but collect €0.32 extra per bag in the boot, plus surcharges for entering Kos airport (€2) or any harbour (€0.80).

Hotel chambermaids should be tipped around €1 per day. Bellhops get up to €2, depending on luggage.

Toilets

Public toilets are scarce. All museums and cafés have decent facilities. Older waste pipes in Greece are narrow and easily clogged. Never put toilet paper into the bowl – always use the bin provided.

Tourist Information

Kos Town’s tourist office (irregular hours, staff moonlights elsewhere, no phone) is indicated on our map. The Kálymnos municipal tourist office is shown on the Póthia map (Mon–Fri 8am–3pm; tel: 22430 50596).

For tourist information before you travel to Greece, contact one of the following overseas offices of the Greek National Tourism Organisation (www.visitgreece.gr):

Australia: 37–49 Pitt Street, Sydney, NSW2000; tel: (2) 9241 1663.

UK and Ireland: Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street, London W1W 8QJ tel: (020) 7495 9300.

US: 305 East 47th Street, New York, NY 10017; tel: (212) 421 5777.

Transport

Bus. Kos buses are divided into two networks: KTEL, for long-distance services (schedules at www.ktel-kos.gr, station tel: 22420 22292) to Ziá, Tingáki, Marmári, Pylí, Mastihári, Kardámena and Kéfalos, and urban buses (tel: 22420 26276) running various routes out to Psalídi, Bros Thermá, Platáni and the ancient Asklipion. Both the KTEL station and urban-bus terminal are marked on our town map.

Kálymnos has a reasonable bus service based in Póthia, while Pátmos has a decent one with a hub in Skála. Léros and Nísyros have more rudimentary networks.

Taxis. Kos is well equipped with grey taxis. Prices to all destinations are regulated and posted outside the arrivals terminal at the airport. Minimum fare is €3.20; the basic charge structure also appears on a laminated sheet mounted on the dashboard. Meters must be set (to €1.20) at the start of each journey; ‘1’ indicates regular fare, ‘2’ indicates double tariff between midnight and 5am, and/or outside urban areas. Summoning a taxi by phone incurs an extra appointment charge. At Póthia, the main taxi rank is inland at Platía Kýprou (though they meet arriving seacraft). On Léros they meet arriving craft at Lakkí and Agía Marína ports; count on €13 for a transit from Lakkí to Krithóni.

Ferries and catamarans. Large ferries tend to dock at Kos between dusk and dawn headed either direction. Scarcely more expensive, and with far more user-friendly schedules, are the local catamarans Dodekanisos Express and Dodekanisos Pride, which serve all the islands in this book during daylight hours. On most islands ferries and catamarans share the same port, though on Léros ferries anchor only at Lákki, whilst catamarans might call at either Lakkí or Agía Marína.

Caiques/kaïkia/water taxis. On a few routes, passenger-only speedboats or traditional caiques offer regular service: Mastihári–Póthia, Mastihári–Psérimos, Kardámena–Nísyros, Myrtiés (Kálymnos)–Pandéli (Léros), Pátmos to surrounding islets. They can be fun, but definitely not on days with heavy seas.

Visas and Entry Requirements

European Union (EU) citizens may enter Greece for an unlimited length of time with a valid passport or national identity card. Nationals of the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand can stay for 90 days within any 180-day period upon production of a valid passport; no advance visas are needed. South Africans require a Schengen Visa, applied for in advance at a Greek embassy or consulate.

Amidst the economic crisis, Greece has strict currency export limits for its own citizens. Foreigners can import or export up to €10,000 or equivalent, provided that large sums of cash are declared upon arrival.

There are no limits on duty-paid goods imported from other EU states. Arriving from a non-EU country (eg Turkey), allowances for importing duty-free goods are 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1 litre of spirits or 4 litres of wine; 250ml of cologne or 50ml of perfume.

Websites and Internet Access

Here are a few genuinely useful websites pertaining to Kos and neighbouring islands:

www.kos.gr Official municipal website; has a calendar of events.

www.kalymnos-isl.gr Excellent municipal site, with good pages on diving and climbing.

www.leros.org Some ropy English to contend with, but gives a thorough flavour of Lerian landscapes, people and traditional architecture.

www.nisyros.gr Decent municipal website; parts are still under construction.

www.patmosweb.gr, www.patmos-island.com Two competing websites which together give a full picture of the island.

http://odysseus.culture.gr Official website of the Greek Ministry of Culture, covering all state museums, castles and archaeological sites; opening hours not reliable.

www.meteo.gr Semi-official weather website, with six-hourly reports from all islands in this guide except Nísyros.

www.windguru.cz Aimed at windsurfers, with reporting stations at Marmári, Psalídi, Kálymnos, Léros and Pátmos.

www.capnbarefoot.info/start Guide to the naturist beaches of the Greek islands, which often happen to be the best ones.

Most hotels have Wi-Fi zones (usually free in common areas, often charged for in rooms). Most bars, tavernas or cafés advertise free Wi-Fi access (code protected) for patrons.