Sweets

• Dessert need not be anything more elaborate than breaking up a few bars of first-rate chocolate on a platter along with dried and/or fresh fruit (whatever is in season); and roasted almonds, hazelnuts, or pistachios.
• Mixed berries and sliced stone fruits are dessert enough in the summer. A colorful variety of sliced citrus, sprinkled with pomegranate seeds, makes a bright winter finale.
• To give any of the above a creamy component (besides whipped cream, of course), drizzle ricotta or mascarpone—or fresh goat cheese or gorgonzola dolce—with honey or maple syrup.
• There are also many make-ahead options if a more traditional dessert is called for (page 76).

4. plot out the menu

Once you’ve settled on what you’ll be serving, it helps to create a timeline.

• The more detailed, the better: for example, “5:30 p.m.: Preheat oven to 350°F. Take cheeses out of the refrigerator. Chop fennel and olives. Peel and segment oranges. Chill white wine.”
• Account for last-minute steps, even if you think you’ll remember—it’s easy to forget to add the garnishes or pie toppings.
• Include how you plan to serve everything, especially for a meal with many components—extra condiments, toasted bread, and dipping sauces, for example.
• It doesn’t hurt to prepare for backups, just in case the oven fails (or you burn the roast). Have the makings for a cheese board (page 47) or a substantial salad—greens and vegetables (prepped and at the ready), canned beans or fish, even some cooked grains. Eggs and mushrooms and scallions can quickly become a skillet-to-table frittata.