CHAPTER 6
Donabe Smoker
Donabe Smoker
Smoked food appeals to people for its diversity of styles. At the same time, many people may perceive smoking as intimidating or impractical to do at home. People often assume that it requires special techniques or is a long process that takes from a full day to sometimes weeks. Others are afraid of the amount of smoke that will be released if trying it at home and think smoking is something to be done only with special equipment outdoors.
But the donabe has made it easy to smoke foods at home. The donabe we introduce in this chapter is specially designed for hot-smoking. It’s called Ibushi Gin, and you can enjoy quick smoking with virtually no smoke released. This donabe smoker can be used even in a tiny kitchen in a closed space, and you can serve the freshly smoked food right from the donabe at the table. If you have a portable burner, it’s great for dinner parties, either indoors or out. With this donabe, you can enjoy a whole new smoking experience with no fuss.
Ibushi Gin is an invention of Yuji Nagatani, the chairman of Nagatani-en. The idea first arose from necessity. As a lover of both sake and smoked food, Yuji wanted to make a donabe that could smoke foods at the table to be enjoyed communally, just like other types of donabe. This donabe has a thick round body with extra space inside for better smoke circulation. There are three tiers of metal grates that can be set inside. You place the smoke chips on the bottom and the ingredients on the grates, cover, and set the donabe over high heat. The thick, porous body of Iga clay and tightly sealed lid trap both the heat and the smoke inside the donabe. The average smoking time over heat is only 12 to 15 minutes (and you don’t need to change the heat level while it’s cooking), followed by an average 20 minutes of resting time after the heat is turned off. So the whole smoking process, including resting time, is just about 30 to 35 minutes, and the result is a beautiful and flavorful dish. We will explain the step-by-step basic donabe smoking procedures later in this chapter.
Donabe smoking has its own magic. You throw regular ingredients, ranging from simple fillets of fish and meat to mushrooms and vegetables or nuts and cheese, into a donabe smoker and they transform in no time at all into something special. Once you familiarize yourself with the donabe smoker and the recipes in this chapter, you can stretch your creativity to experiment with different variations of smoke aromas (combining smoking wood with herbs, tea leaves, and so on) or new ingredients you are interested in trying. While you might make a few small mistakes along the way (some ingredients work better in the smoker than others), you will discover new favorites—and that’s always a joy. You can become a proud smoker!
About the Recipes in This Chapter
Before you get started, here are some useful reminders and information about cooking the recipes in this chapter.
The recipes are made in a large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter and 8 inches/20 cm tall) called Ibushi Gin. This donabe has a base (bowl) and a lid with no hole. The rim of the base has a reservoir all around. When the cover is placed on the base, you fill the reservoir with water, creating a water seal that traps the smoke inside. There are three tiers of metal grates that can be set inside the base, on which you place the ingredients to smoke. If you’re using a smaller donabe smoker, adjust the recipe’s ingredient quantities accordingly. Ibushi Gin should not be used for purposes other than smoking.
If You Don’t Have an Ibushi Gin
Other heat-smoking cookware can be used for these recipes. Follow your product’s instructions to adapt the recipes to your cookware.
Smoke Chips
Wood smoke chips are used in the recipes in this chapter. The wood chips should be fine (small) so that they can heat and start to release smoke faster. These chips don’t need to be soaked in water before use. The following are some of the types of wood chips we recommend. Fine-cut wood chips can be found at housewares stores or online shops (see Resources). In this chapter, we use cherry-blossom wood chips because we particularly like the elegant smoky character these chips provide, but you can try different kinds of smoke chips of your preference.
Cherry-Blossom (called sakura in Japanese): This is the most popular type of smoke wood in Japan. Cherry-blossom wood chips provide a mild and elegant aroma with a hint of sweetness. The color these chips impart to the ingredients is medium-dark.
Apple: Also popular in Japan. Apple wood chips impart a relatively lighter color. The flavor is mild and slightly acidic with a hint of sweetness.
Walnut: These chips provide a light and elegant aroma, but they tend to give a darker color to the ingredients. They’re especially popular for smoking white meat or fish.
Hickory: A popular smoke wood in the United States, hickory has a rich aroma and is popular for meat. The color it imparts tends to be dark, too.
You can combine the smoke chips with about a teaspoon of raw brown sugar, which will give the ingredients more color and shine.
Other items you can mix with the smoke chips include tea leaves (such as hojicha, oolong, or Earl Grey) and fresh herbs (such as sprigs of rosemary or thyme), which will add another layer of flavor. For the tea leaves, use about a teaspoon; for the fresh herbs, a few sprigs are enough. Play around with different combinations and enjoy the variations of smoke aromas.
Basic Smoking
1. Line the bottom of a donabe smoker with a piece of aluminum foil (about a 6-inch/15 cm square). Make sure that the foil is pressed firmly into the bottom. Place a handful of dry smoke chips (about ⅓ ounce/ 7 to 10 g) spread in a large ring shape atop the foil. If the ingredient(s) have a high fat or moisture content, place another, slightly larger piece of foil very loosely over the smoke chips in order to catch the drippings and keep the smoke chips from getting wet. Make sure there is room for the smoke to escape between the two layers of foil.
2. Cut the ingredients of your choice into the desired size. Each ingredient should not be thicker than about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Lightly season fish fillets with salt and pepper and let rest (30 to 60 minutes for small cuts, 1 to 2 hours for large fillets); lightly season meat with salt and pepper and let rest for 1 to 2 hours or longer. For other ingredients, such as vegetables, season with salt and pepper if you desire. Pat dry all the ingredients before smoking to remove any excess moisture.
3. Set the grates inside the smoker one by one, placing ingredients on each grate before adding the next. The ingredients should not overlap one another. The lower grate tends to become hotter, as it’s closer to the flame, so if you are smoking different ingredients at the same time, place the thicker ingredients on the bottom grate.
4. Set the donabe smoker, uncovered, over high heat. Once the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes, cover with the lid. If the heat is too high (i.e. the smoke chips start to release smoke too soon), the ingredients can overcook and also taste bitter.
5. Fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 7 to 9 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Cooking times may vary depending on the ingredients and their sizes. Experiment and see what works best for you. For thin-sliced ingredients, the smoking time after heating dish has been covered can be 5 minutes or even less. For thicker cuts, especially meat, it can be 9 minutes or longer.
6. Let it rest undisturbed for 20 minutes. Uncover, and the smoked items are ready to eat.
It’s very important to pat each ingredient’s surface dry so that it can absorb the smoke effectively.
Smoked Medley: Smoking with Assorted Ingredients
SERVES 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
NOTE: Octopus for sashimi is already boiled; it can be found at Japanese markets.
6 medium chicken wings, middle joint only
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
5 ounces (150 g) octopus legs for sashimi, cut into bite-size pieces (see Note)
3 large eggs, chilled
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
6 asparagus tips
3 ounces (100 g) eryngii (king trumpet) mushrooms, sliced lengthwise ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
About 2 tablespoons
Naosco, for serving
In this recipe, various ingredients are smoked in a donabe smoker and uncovered at the table, revealed layer by layer amid the guests’ excited oohs and ahs. The yolks of the very soft boiled eggs stay magically soft while the outsides absorb the nice smoky aroma. I serve it with my own sauce I call
Naosco, a combination of
yuzu-kosho, vinegar, and
shio-koji, or you can serve with just lemon wedges on the side, too. This dish is a great introduction to smoking with donabe.—Naoko
Season the chicken wings lightly with salt and pepper. Let them rest, uncovered, for 1 to 2 hours in the refrigerator. Remove them about 30 minutes prior to smoking to bring them close to room temperature. Pat dry with a paper towel.
Meanwhile, season the octopus legs lightly with salt and pepper. Let them rest for 30 to 60 minutes in the refrigerator. Pat dry with a paper towel.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Pierce a hole in the bottom of each cold egg (right out of the refrigerator) with a safety pin. Place them carefully in the boiling water and cook for 7 minutes. Immediately transfer the eggs to a bowl of cold water to cool down. Carefully peel the eggs and pat dry with a paper towel. The yolks should still be runny.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set up the grates inside the donabe, placing the chicken wings on the bottom grate, the asparagus and
eryngii mushrooms on the middle grate, and the eggs in the center of the top grate surrounded by the octopus.
Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 9 to 10 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 20 minutes.
Transfer the items to a large serving plate or serve directly on individual plates at the table, with the Naosco on the side.
Smoked Sausages
SERVES 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
NOTE: Depending on the size of the sausages, cooking time may vary. For a thicker sausage (up to 1 inch/2.5 cm thick), smoke for 9 to 10 minutes after the lid is put on, and let it rest for 20 minutes after the heat is turned off.
1 pound (450 g) fresh uncooked sausages (different sizes are okay)
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
Coarse-ground mustard, for serving
Such a simple ingredient as sausage upgrades to something special when smoked in a donabe. When we have a casual party, I like to serve this with coarse-ground mustard as a condiment and alongside ice-cold beer. Guests often rave about them as if they had never tried sausages before! When I’m out of town, this is what my husband, Jason, likes to make, too. If you can find a large coiled sausage, it makes a wonderful presentation at a party. Use whatever type of sausage you like best.—Naoko
If the sausages have been kept in the refrigerator, remove them about 30 minutes prior to smoking to bring them close to room temperature. Pat dry the sausages with a paper towel.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set the grates inside the donabe one by one, placing sausages on each grate.
Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for about 7 minutes over high heat and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 20 minutes.
Transfer the items to a large serving plate or serve directly on individual plates at the table, with the mustard on the side.
Smoked Duck Breast with Creamy Wasabi–Green Onion Dipping Sauce
SERVES 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
NOTE: As shown in the picture below, I also like to serve this dish over
Orange Butter Rice.
4 medium (about ¾ inch/2 cm thick) duck breast halves, excess skin trimmed
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
½ cup (120 ml) crème fraîche
1 to 1½ teaspoons wasabi paste
2 teaspoons usukuchi shoyu (light-colored soy sauce)
1 green onion, thinly sliced
1 to 1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
This dish is so popular among my friends that when someone hosts a potluck dinner, I often receive requests to bring my donabe smoker and make this dish on location. The duck breast is seasoned with salt and pepper and dry-marinated in the refrigerator overnight. This process enhances the umami flavor of the meat and makes it tender when smoked. Scoring the skin releases excess fat and lets the meat absorb the deep smokiness. Add
hojicha (roasted green tea leaves; see
Glossary) to the smoke chips before starting the smoking process for a flavor variation. The fresh, tangy crème fraîche in the sauce paired with the hot wasabi flavor complements the rich smoked duck. If you don’t have wasabi paste, horseradish will work as well.—Naoko
Using a sharp paring knife, score the skin of the duck breast at ⅓-inch (8 mm) intervals crosswise. Score it again at about ½-inch (1 cm) intervals lengthwise. Be careful not to penetrate the meat. Lightly season both sides of the duck breast with salt. Set the breasts skin-side up on a plate, uncovered, and let rest in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes prior to smoking to bring them close to room temperature. Pat dry with a paper towel.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set up the bottom and middle grates with the duck breasts skin-side up on each. The thicker pieces should go on the bottom tier. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 9 to 10 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce: Whisk together the crème fraîche and wasabi paste in a medium bowl until smooth. Add the usukuchi shoyu and green onion and stir. Gradually stir in the lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning with a pinch of salt, if desired.
Transfer the duck breast to a cutting board and slice crosswise along the scored lines (or thinner if you like). Serve with the dipping sauce on the side.
Smoked Camembert, Nuts, and Dried Figs with Rosemary
SERVES 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
NOTE: Be careful to not overheat or overcook the Camembert as this can result in it curdling (becoming almost solid).
1 (8-ounce/240 g) good-quality Camembert cheese
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
4 to 6 dried figs, halved
10 to 12 unsalted walnut halves
10 to 12 dry-roasted unsalted pistachios in their shells
2 to 3 sprigs rosemary
Camembert, walnuts, pistachio, and dried figs…these are all good on their own, yet with a quick smoke in a donabe, they become a special tasty treat. No preseasoning or resting is necessary; you can just place them in the donabe smoker and they are ready in a short time. Camembert becomes warm, gooey, and smoky. Walnuts become even nuttier, and the sweetness of the figs blends nicely with the smoky aroma. The scent of rosemary gently wraps the entire dish. Enjoy with crackers or a sliced baguette.—Naoko
Remove the Camembert from the refrigerator 30 minutes before using. Place the Camembert on a piece of aluminum foil and wrap it so that only the top half is exposed.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe smoker according to the
basic smoking instructions. Place the rosemary lightly over the smoke chips in the center. Set up the middle and top grates with the ingredients, placing the dried figs on the middle grate and the Camembert, walnuts, and pistachios on the top grate. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 5 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 10 minutes. Transfer the cheese, nuts, and figs to a serving plate and serve immediately.
Smoked Chicken Tender Salad with Kurozu Vinaigrette
SERVES 4 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
1 small clove garlic, finely grated
1 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
½ teaspoon tobanjan (fermented chili bean paste; optional)
2 tablespoons kurozu (Japanese black vinegar) or rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ teaspoons honey
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
5 ounces (150 g) chicken tenders (3 to 4 pieces)
¼ teaspoon sea salt
2 green onions (white and light green parts only), cut into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths on the diagonal
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
¼ cup (60 ml) unsalted almonds
¼ cup (60 ml) shelled fava beans
5 ounces (150 g) mixed greens
4 radishes, halved
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Fresh vegetables are tossed with torn smoked chicken tenders, almonds, and green onions in a kurozu (Japanese black vinegar) vinaigrette. The result is a very satisfying salad with layers of flavor. I like the smoked chicken tenders not only in the salad but also as a topping for soup or noodles. To bring out extra sweetness, green onions are lightly charred in a pan before being smoked, but you can skip that step and they will still taste delicious.—Naoko
To make the vinaigrette: Whisk together the garlic, ginger, tobanjan, kurozu, soy sauce, and honey in a small bowl. Gradually add the sesame oil and 1 tablespoon olive oil while whisking; continue whisking until smooth (can be prepared several hours in advance and kept in a cool place or refrigerated).
Season the chicken all over with the salt. Let it rest, uncovered, for 30 to 60 minutes. Pat dry with a paper towel.
Heat the remaining olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the green onions and spread them in a single layer. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side until lightly browned. Transfer to a plate to cool down and then pat dry.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set up the middle and top grates with the ingredients, placing the chicken on the middle grate and the green onions and almonds on the top grate. Set the donabe, uncovered,
over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 5 minutes over high heat, then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 20 minutes. Transfer the smoked ingredients to a plate. Shred the chicken into small bite-size pieces by hand.
While the smoked ingredients are resting, bring a small pot of water to a boil and add a generous pinch of salt. Add the fava beans and blanch until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and let cool. Peel and pat dry with a paper towel.
In a large bowl, combine the fava beans, mixed greens, radishes, and all the smoked items. Pour over the vinaigrette and toss well. Add some black pepper, if you like. Transfer to a serving plate.
Smoked Heirloom Tomato Salad with Smoked Tomato Vinaigrette
SERVES 8 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
1½ pounds (680 g) red heirloom or plum tomatoes, cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) wedges
Sea salt
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
¾ cup (180 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
1½ pounds (680 g) heirloom tomatoes, various colors and types, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) wedges
Sea salt
1 cup (240 ml) thinly sliced cucumber
2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and diced
6 ounces (180 g) fresh sheep’s-milk feta, ricotta, or burrata cheese
12 to 16 ounces (360 to 450 g) mixed greens (such a purslane, baby arugula, and mizuna)
4 French Breakfast radishes, sliced thin and curled in ice water, for garnish
Nasturtium and borage flowers, for garnish
This salad is a smoky version of a California summer favorite that we look forward to with the onset of tomato season. The combination of other vegetable and cheese elements is flexible with the base of both smoked and fresh tomato. The smoke from the donabe smoker applied to the tomatoes allows the light, fresh flavors of the other ingredients to show through without being overpowered.—Kyle
To make the vinaigrette: Set the smoke chips in the donabe smoker according to the
basic smoking instructions. Place the tomato wedges in a single layer on the middle and top grates. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes, before covering. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 5 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 10 minutes. Transfer the smoked tomatoes from the donabe to a plate. Allow to cool slightly and remove the skins from the wedges.
Place the smoked tomatoes in a blender and season with a pinch of salt. Pulse the blender and remove the seeds by passing the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer. Discard the seeds and return the tomato puree to the blender. Add the vinegar and puree on low speed. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Cool completely and refrigerate until ready to use.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Place half the tomato wedges in a single layer on the middle and top grates. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 5 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 10 minutes. Transfer the smoked tomatoes to a plate and sprinkle with sea salt. Allow to cool slightly and remove the skins from the wedges.
Combine the smoked and fresh tomatoes in a bowl with the cucumber, avocados, cheese, and sesame seeds. Pour in the vinaigrette (adjust the amount as necessary to avoid overdressing the salad) and toss the mixture. Then toss with the greens. Mound the salad in a serving bowl and garnish with the radishes and flowers.
Smoked Calamari Salad in Black Sesame Vinegar Sauce
SERVES 4 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
8 ounces (240 g) calamari legs, cut into large bite-size pieces
⅔ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon raw brown sugar
1 teaspoon mirin
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1⅓ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
½ cup (120 ml) baby shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) or chopped mitsuba
As a small course, I sometimes make poached calamari that is tossed in a light sauce of toasted and ground black sesame seeds and vinegar. It’s really delicious, and one day when I made it, I thought the dish would be even better if I smoked the calamari instead of poaching it. So I made it, and I was right! Add some baby greens and the dish becomes a nice salad. In order to make it easier for the calamari to absorb the smoke and become tender, it’s good to let it rest uncovered in the refrigerator overnight after it is seasoned. Smoked calamari is also great on its own with a little drizzle of soy sauce and olive oil.—Naoko
Season the calamari all over with the salt. Set aside in the refrigerator, uncovered, for a few hours or preferably overnight. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes prior to smoking to bring them close to room temperature. Pat dry with a paper towel.
To make the sauce: Stir together the sesame seeds, brown sugar, mirin, soy sauce, and vinegar in a small bowl. Add the olive oil and stir until smooth. Set aside.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set up the middle and top grates with the calamari. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 4 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 15 minutes.
In a bowl, combine the smoked calamari, sauce, and baby shungiku and toss. Transfer to a serving plate.
Smoked Shrimp, Scallops, and Sweet Chestnuts
SERVES 6 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
6 large shrimp, peeled except for the tail and deveined
6 large sea scallops
Sea salt
12 peeled sweet roasted whole chestnuts (from a package)
Soy sauce
Extra-virgin olive oil
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
Here’s another dish that proves how simply smoked ingredients in a donabe can taste so special. Choose large shrimp and scallops so that they absorb the nice smoky aroma while staying juicy. Already peeled sweet roasted chestnuts are available at Asian markets and are convenient to use. They are a tasty snack right out of the package, but become nutty and tender after being smoked. This dish is simply served with a little drizzle of soy sauce and olive oil. Wasabi can also be nice on the side as well.—Naoko
Season the shrimp and scallops lightly with salt. Let them rest, uncovered, for a few hours in the refrigerator. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes prior to smoking to bring them close to room temperature. Pat dry with a paper towel.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set up the middle and top grates with the ingredients, placing the shrimp on the middle grate and the scallops and chestnuts on the top grate. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for 5 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 15 minutes.
Transfer the smoked items to a serving plate. Splash a small amount of soy sauce over the shrimp and scallops, followed by a good drizzle of olive oil to your taste.
Smoked Miso-Marinated Tofu
SERVES 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal
EQUIPMENT: One large donabe smoker (about 10¾ inches/27 cm in diameter)
NOTE: If you have shiso leaves, it’s also nice to put a dab of wasabi on the tofu slice and then wrap with a shiso leaf.
1½ tablespoons plain yogurt
1½ tablespoons honey
1 (14-ounce/400 g) package medium-firm tofu, cut in half and press-drained (see
note)
Handful of smoke chips (your choice)
Wasabi paste
I regularly make miso-marinated tofu and like to slice and serve it fresh, but when it’s smoked in a donabe, it becomes a whole other delicious dish. Miso and smoke flavors work magically together, and the tofu becomes very rich in taste. The tofu needs to be marinated in the miso sauce for at least three days, so plan ahead.—Naoko
Whisk together the miso, yogurt, and honey in a small bowl. Pat dry the tofu very well. Wrap each tofu half with a piece of cheesecloth. Place a piece of plastic wrap on a work surface. Spread over about 2 tablespoons of the miso marinade. Place a tofu half (wrapped in cheesecloth) on the miso, and then spread about 3 tablespoons of the miso marinade on top of the tofu with a spatula. Wrap tightly with the plastic wrap and make sure the tofu is completely covered in the sauce by lightly pressing with your fingers. Wrap again with another piece of plastic wrap. Repeat the process with the other tofu half. Place both in a resealable plastic bag and let them marinate in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.
Unwrap the tofu carefully and discard the marinade. Pat the tofu dry. Cut each block in half crosswise, and then cut each of those halves into four slices crosswise.
Set the smoke chips in the donabe according to the
basic smoking instructions. Set up the middle and top grates with the tofu slices. Set the donabe, uncovered, over high heat. Wait until the smoke chips start to release smoke, about 7 to 8 minutes. Cover, and fill the reservoir in the rim of the base a little over half full with water. Smoke for about 5 minutes over high heat, and then turn off the heat. Let rest undisturbed for 20 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and serve with a small mound of wasabi on the side.
