Artichokes are beautiful and sculptural, and also somewhat mysterious and forbidding. But they are far more user-friendly in the kitchen than they may appear at first glance.
Artichokes are the immature flower buds of a perennial plant in the thistle family. These dramatic plants can grow quite large, reaching up to 6 feet in diameter and 3 to 4 feet in height. The vegetables are commonly marketed in three sizes: small (2 to 4 ounces), medium (8 to 10 ounces), and large (12 ounces or more). Curiously, different-size artichokes simultaneously bud on the same plant; those that grow on the center stalk are the largest, and the smallest grow at the juncture between the plant’s leaves and the stem.
We like medium artichokes best for braising, roasting, and grilling. They are easy to prepare, and one artichoke conveniently serves one person. We prefer to halve them for even cooking, as in our Braised Artichokes with Tomatoes and Thyme and Grilled Artichokes with Lemon Butter. We also enjoy stuffing whole artichokes, which makes for a dramatic presentation that’s wonderful for entertaining. Small artichokes are perfect for frying, and in this chapter you’ll find Jewish-Style Fried Artichokes, a classic Roman preparation. The small ones are also best for making tender marinated artichokes, a far more flavorful option than mushy store-bought marinated artichokes.
Ninety percent of the work that goes into preparing most artichoke dishes is cleaning the artichokes. By the time you’ve finished trimming away the inedible parts, it may seem like you’re throwing away more of the vegetable than you’re keeping! But it’s well worth it to peel back those layers to discover the hidden, delicious inner edible portions.
shopping and storage
While you will see artichokes throughout most of the year, springtime is high season. Then, artichokes of all sizes are widely available. When selecting fresh artichokes, look for leaves that are tight, compact, and bright green. If you give an artichoke a squeeze, its leaves should squeak as they rub together (evidence that the artichoke still possesses much of its moisture). The leaves should also snap off cleanly. If the leaves bend rather than snap, or if they appear dried out or feathery at the edges, the artichoke is over the hill.
Because fresh artichokes are limited by seasonality, we often turn to prepared artichokes. When buying them, avoid premarinated versions; we prefer to control the seasonings ourselves. We also don’t recommend canned hearts, which tend to taste waterlogged and have tough leaves. Smaller whole jarred artichoke hearts, labeled “baby” or “cocktail,” are best. We have noted recipes in which frozen artichoke hearts are acceptable to use.
Artichokes will keep in the refrigerator for up to five days if sprinkled lightly with water and stored in a zipper-lock plastic bag.
vegetable science
Why Do Artichokes Turn Brown?
Artichokes are rich in phenolic compounds. When the cell walls of artichokes are cut or crushed, enzymes (polyphenol oxidase) in their tissues are exposed to oxygen and react with those phenols, producing unattractive black- or brown-colored pigments. Rubbing the exposed ends with acid slows the rate of browning. We found that vinegar (which is high in acetic acid) and parsley (which is high in ascorbic acid) each minimized darkening when added to cooking water. But lemon juice (which contains both citric and ascorbic acids) proved far more effective, limiting this enzymatic reaction almost completely.
anatomy of an artichoke
What’s Edible and What’s Not?
The entire exterior of the artichoke (including several layers of leaves), as well as the fuzzy choke and tiny pointy leaves at the center, cannot be eaten. The tender inner heart, leaves, and stem are entirely edible. The cooked heart can be eaten with a knife and fork. To eat the tough outer leaves, use your teeth to scrape the flesh from the underside of each leaf.
vegetable prep
1. Cut off top quarter of artichoke with chef’s knife.
2. Break and pull off bottom outer leaves by pulling downward on them.
3. Trim top portion of outer leaves with kitchen shears.
4. Either trim stem and base or, if called for, peel stem.
5. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise and scoop out choke using small spoon.
6. Submerge prepared artichokes in lemon water to prevent them from turning brown.
ROASTED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Roasting artichokes concentrates their delicate, nutty flavor. We prepped the artichokes for the oven by trimming the leaves, halving the artichokes, and removing the fuzzy chokes. Submerging the prepped artichokes in water and lemon juice kept them from oxidizing, and tossing them with oil and roasting cut side down encouraged browning. Because they have so much surface area, artichokes can dry out and toughen in the oven, so we covered them to let them steam and tenderize in their own juice. The fresh tang of citrus pairs well with artichokes’ earthy flavor, so we roasted some halved lemons alongside the artichokes and used the deeply flavorful juice in a vinaigrette. We whisked the juice with garlic and Dijon before drizzling in and emulsifying some olive oil to create a bright, intense dressing. If your artichokes are larger than 8 to 10 ounces, strip away another layer or two of the toughest outer leaves. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. Serve these either warm or at room temperature.
3 lemons
4 artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)
9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1 small garlic clove, minced to paste
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Cut 1 lemon in half, squeeze halves into container filled with 2 quarts water, then add spent halves. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim stem to about ¾ inch and cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off bottom 3 or 4 rows of tough outer leaves by pulling them downward. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Using paring knife, trim outer layer of stem and base, removing any dark green parts. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise, then remove fuzzy choke and any tiny inner purple-tinged leaves using small spoon. Submerge prepped artichokes in lemon water.
2. Coat bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon oil. Remove artichokes from lemon water, shaking off excess water. Toss artichokes with 2 tablespoons oil, ¾ teaspoon salt, and pinch pepper; gently rub oil and seasonings between leaves. Arrange artichokes cut side down in prepared dish. Trim ends of remaining 2 lemons, halve crosswise, and arrange cut side up next to artichokes in dish. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast until cut sides of artichokes begin to brown and bases and leaves are tender when poked with tip of paring knife, 25 to 30 minutes.
3. Transfer artichokes to serving platter. Let lemons cool slightly, then squeeze into fine-mesh strainer set over bowl, extracting as much juice and pulp as possible; press firmly on solids to yield 1½ tablespoons juice. Whisk parsley, garlic, mustard, and ½ teaspoon salt into juice. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in remaining 6 tablespoons oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve artichokes with dressing.
ROMAN-STYLE STUFFED BRAISED ARTICHOKES
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this traditional Italian dish, we wanted a bright, robust stuffing, which we achieved with a blend of minced fresh parsley and mint, garlic, lemon zest, and bread crumbs moistened with extra-virgin olive oil. The stuffing infused the artichokes with flavor as they braised. Cooking the artichokes took little more than half an hour in a large Dutch oven filled with just enough water to cover the stems three-quarters of the way. (Any more liquid made for sodden stems and a gummy filling.) To prevent the uncooked filling from spilling out, we placed each artichoke stem end down into a thickly cut onion ring. For even cooking, we then rotated the artichokes at the midway point so that the stem ends were facing up. Serve each artichoke with a spoon so that diners can coax out the stuffing. If your artichokes are larger than 8 to 10 ounces, strip away another layer or two of the toughest outer leaves.
1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, crust removed, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 lemon
4 artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup minced fresh parsley, stems reserved
¼ cup minced fresh mint
4 garlic cloves, minced
Salt and pepper
1 onion, cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices and separated into rings
1. Pulse bread in food processor to fine crumbs, about 10 pulses; transfer to medium bowl. Grate 1 tablespoon zest from lemon and add to bowl; set aside. Cut lemon in half, squeeze halves into container filled with 2 quarts water, then add spent halves.
2. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim end of stem and cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off tough outer leaves by pulling them downward until only light-colored core remains. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Using paring knife, trim stem and base, removing any dark green parts. Spread leaves to reveal fuzzy choke at center. Using spoon, remove fuzzy choke. Rinse artichoke well, then submerge prepped artichoke in lemon water.
3. Add oil, parsley leaves, mint, garlic, and ½ teaspoon salt to bowl with bread crumbs and stir until well combined; season with pepper to taste. Using small spoon, divide filling evenly among artichokes, placing it in center of artichoke, where choke was.
4. Spread onion rings evenly over bottom of Dutch oven. Sprinkle reserved parsley stems and ¼ teaspoon salt over onion rings. Set artichokes stem ends down into onion rings. Fill pot with enough cold water so that stems are three-quarters submerged.
5. Cover and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Using tongs, rotate artichokes so stem ends face up, using tongs to keep filling in place. Cover and cook until tip of paring knife is easily inserted into artichoke heart, about 15 minutes longer. Transfer artichokes to serving platter. Serve.
BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH TOMATOES AND THYME
Serves 4
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Gently braising artichokes and creating a flavorful sauce at the same time keeps the focus on the flavor of these seasonal gems. We used white wine and chicken broth to impart acidity and depth of flavor. Subtle thyme complemented the artichokes’ delicate flavor, and anchovies amplified the savory qualities. Canned tomatoes are common in braises, but tasters detected an unpleasant metallic note; replacing them with halved cherry tomatoes at the end of cooking preserved the brightness of the sauce and added welcome splashes of color. If your artichokes are larger than 8 to 10 ounces, strip away another layer or two of the toughest outer leaves.
1 lemon, halved
4 artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped fine
Salt and pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken broth
6 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Squeeze lemon halves into container filled with 2 quarts water, then add spent halves. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim stem to about ¾ inch and cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off bottom 3 or 4 rows of tough outer leaves by pulling them downward. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Using paring knife, trim stem and base, removing any dark green parts. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise, then remove fuzzy choke and any tiny inner purple-tinged leaves using small spoon. Cut each half into 1-inch-thick wedges and submerge wedges in lemon water.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, anchovies, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Stir in broth and bring to simmer.
3. Remove artichokes from lemon water, shaking off excess water, and add to skillet. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until artichokes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Stir in tomatoes, bring to simmer, and cook until tomatoes start to break down, 3 to 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SLOW-COOKER BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH GARLIC BUTTER
Serves 4
Total time: 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A slow cooker makes impressive whole braised artichokes accessible. We simply trimmed the artichokes and placed them upright in the slow cooker (5 to 7 quarts) with a little water. Tossing them with a bit of lemon juice and olive oil beforehand helped to preserve their color. For a simple yet boldly flavored dipping sauce, we melted butter with more lemon juice and some minced garlic. If your artichokes are larger than 8 to 10 ounces, strip away another layer or two of the toughest outer leaves. These artichokes are delicious warm or at room temperature.
4 artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)
¼ cup lemon juice (2 lemons)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon salt
1. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, cut off stem at base so artichoke sits upright, then cut off top quarter of artichoke. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Toss artichokes with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and oil in bowl, then place right side up in slow cooker. Add ½ cup water, cover, and cook until outer leaves of artichokes pull away easily and tip of paring knife inserted into base meets no resistance, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Microwave remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, butter, garlic, and salt in bowl until butter is melted. Whisk butter mixture to combine, then divide evenly among 4 serving bowls. Remove artichokes from slow cooker, letting any excess cooking liquid drain back into insert, and place artichokes in bowls with butter. Serve.
GRILLED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON BUTTER
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Grilling artichokes is a fun alternative preparation, bringing a bit of smoky char and enhancing their nutty flavor. Parboiling them in a broth with lemon juice, red pepper flakes, and salt ensured that they were completely tender and thoroughly seasoned. Tossing in extra-virgin olive oil before grilling helped develop the flavorful char marks on the grill. A simple blend of lemon zest and juice, garlic, and butter came together easily in the microwave and was perfect for dipping or drizzling. If your artichokes are larger than 8 to 10 ounces, strip away another layer or two of the toughest outer leaves.
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 lemons
4 artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 garlic clove, minced to paste
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1. Combine 3 quarts water, 3 tablespoons salt, and pepper flakes in Dutch oven. Cut 1 lemon in half; squeeze juice into pot, then add spent halves. Bring to boil over high heat.
2. Meanwhile, working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim end of stem and cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off bottom 3 or 4 rows of tough outer leaves by pulling them downward. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Using paring knife, trim stem and base, removing any dark green parts.
3. Add artichokes to pot with boiling water mixture, cover, and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until tip of paring knife inserted into base of artichoke meets no resistance, 25 to 28 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. Meanwhile, grate 2 teaspoons zest from remaining lemon; combine with butter, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Microwave at 50 percent power until butter is melted and bubbling and garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Squeeze 1½ tablespoons juice from zested lemon and stir into butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Place artichokes stem side up on prepared rack and let drain for 10 minutes. Cut artichokes in half lengthwise. Remove fuzzy choke and any tiny inner purple-tinged leaves using small spoon, leaving small cavity in center of each half.
6a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
6b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
7. Clean and oil cooking grate. Brush artichokes with oil. Place artichokes on grill and cook (covered if using gas) until lightly charred, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer artichokes to serving platter and tent with aluminum foil. Briefly rewarm lemon butter in microwave, if necessary, and serve with artichokes.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
GRILLED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON BUTTER
Although artichokes are often braised or steamed, grilling artichokes imparts wonderfully smoky, nutty flavors. To achieve grilled artichokes that have appealing char marks on the outside and tender interiors, we jump-start the cooking process by parboiling them first. Then they become an easy side dish to finish on the grill with the rest of the meal.
1. Working with one artichoke at a time, trim the end of the stem and cut off the top quarter of the artichoke.
2. Break off the bottom three or four rows of tough outer leaves by pulling them downward. Using kitchen shears, trim off the top portion of the outer leaves.
3. Using a paring knife, trim the stem and base of the artichoke, removing any dark green parts.
4. Simmer the artichokes until the tip of a paring knife inserted into the base of an artichoke meets no resistance, 25 to 28 minutes, stirring occasionally.
5. Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise. Remove the fuzzy chokes and any tiny inner purple-tinged leaves using a small spoon, leaving a small cavity in the center of each artichoke half.
6. Brush the artichokes with oil. Place the artichokes on the grill and cook until lightly charred, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Serve with the lemon butter.
JEWISH-STYLE FRIED ARTICHOKES
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this classic Roman recipe, baby artichokes are pared down to their tender core and delicate inner leaves, cooked in extra-virgin olive oil until crispy and browned, and then sprinkled with sea salt and served with lemon. The cooking method was the key to success. Dropping the prepped artichokes into hot oil produced scorched, bitter leaves, while starting them in cold oil resulted in uneven browning. So we landed on an approach in the middle. We started the artichokes in extra-virgin olive oil heated to a moderate 300 degrees until the hearts were just cooked through; we then removed them while we increased the heat to 325 degrees. The artichokes required just 1 to 2 minutes in the hotter oil to develop golden, supercrisp leaves. Baby artichokes are a must here; as their tender hearts cook quickly and their soft leaves become shatteringly crisp.
1 lemon, halved, plus lemon wedges for serving
2 pounds baby artichokes (2 to 4 ounces each)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Flake sea salt
1. Squeeze lemon halves into 4 cups cold water in large bowl; add spent halves. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, peel and trim stem to remove dark green layer, then cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off tough outer leaves by pulling them downward until you reach delicate yellow leaves. Cut artichokes in half lengthwise and submerge in lemon water.
2. Line rimmed baking sheet with dish towel. Remove artichokes from lemon water, shaking off excess water, and transfer to prepared sheet; discard water and spent halves. Thoroughly pat artichokes dry and transfer to clean bowl.
3. Set wire rack in now-empty rimmed baking sheet and line with triple layer of paper towels. Add oil to large Dutch oven until it measures about 2 inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 300 degrees. Carefully add artichokes to oil and cook until tender, pale green, and edges of leaves just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer artichokes to prepared baking sheet.
4. Heat oil over medium-high heat to 325 degrees. Return artichokes to oil and cook until golden and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer artichokes to sheet. Season with salt to taste. Serve with lemon wedges.
ROASTED ARTICHOKE DIP
Serves 8 to 10
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This retro party favorite is too often overwhelmed by excess mayonnaise or sour cream or the tinny flavor of canned artichokes. This version is an irresistible crowd-pleaser, loaded with distinct artichoke flavor under a golden, crispy crust. For a simple, freshened-up take that could easily be made ahead of time, we replaced canned artichokes with frozen, which have a cleaner flavor, and we roasted them to intensify their flavor. A combination of mayonnaise and cream cheese for our base gave the dip a creamy, rich texture, and sprinkling on a Parmesan–bread crumb topping made for a crunchy, savory finishing touch. We prefer frozen artichoke hearts for this recipe, and don’t recommend substituting jarred. Do not thaw the frozen artichoke hearts. This dip is best served warm. Serve with crackers or a thinly sliced baguette.
TOPPING
2 slices hearty white sandwich bread, torn into quarters
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
DIP
18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup mayonnaise
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
Pinch cayenne pepper
1. For the topping Pulse bread in food processor until coarsely ground, about 12 pulses. Toss bread crumbs with Parmesan and melted butter; set aside.
2. For the dip Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Toss artichokes with 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper on prepared sheet. Roast artichokes, stirring occasionally, until browned at edges, about 25 minutes. When cool enough to handle, chop artichokes coarse. Reduce oven temperature to 400 degrees.
3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer onion mixture to large bowl.
4. Stir mayonnaise, cream cheese, Parmesan, lemon juice, thyme, and cayenne into onion mixture until well combined and smooth. Gently fold in artichokes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer mixture to 1-quart baking dish and smooth top. Sprinkle topping evenly over dip. (Dip can be covered tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
5. Bake dip until hot throughout and topping is golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let dip cool for 5 minutes before serving.
MARINATED ARTICHOKES
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Marinated artichokes have so many uses that they should be considered a pantry staple; they’re perfect for everything from topping pizzas to tossing into a salad or pasta to arranging on an antipasto platter. But store-bought versions tend to be mushy and bland—and expensive. We set out to make our own recipe for easy, inexpensive, and boldly flavorful marinated artichokes. To get the best tender-yet-meaty texture and sweet, nutty flavor, we started with fresh baby artichokes, simmering them gently in olive oil with lemon zest, garlic, red pepper flakes, and thyme. Then they rested off the heat until perfectly fork-tender and infused with the aromatic marinade. We stirred fresh lemon juice, more zest, and minced garlic into the mixture before transferring the artichokes to a bowl and sprinkling them with fresh mint.
2 lemons
2½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
3 pounds baby artichokes (2 to 4 ounces each)
8 garlic cloves, peeled (6 smashed, 2 minced)
2 sprigs fresh thyme
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint
1. Using vegetable peeler, remove three 2-inch strips zest from 1 lemon. Grate ½ teaspoon zest from second lemon and set aside. Halve and juice lemons to yield ¼ cup juice, reserving spent lemon halves and setting aside juice. Combine oil and lemon zest strips in large saucepan.
2. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, peel and trim stem to remove dark green layer, then cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off tough outer leaves by pulling them downward until you reach delicate yellow leaves. Cut artichokes in half lengthwise (quarter if large). Rub each artichoke half with spent lemon half and place in saucepan.
3. Add smashed garlic, thyme sprigs, pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper to saucepan and bring to rapid simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally to submerge all artichokes, until artichokes can be pierced with fork but are still firm, about 5 minutes. Off heat, let sit, covered, until artichokes are fork-tender and fully cooked, about 20 minutes.
4. Gently stir in ½ teaspoon reserved grated lemon zest, ¼ cup reserved lemon juice, and minced garlic. Transfer artichokes and oil to serving bowl and let cool to room temperature. Season with salt to taste and sprinkle with mint. Serve. (Artichokes and oil can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
BRUSCHETTA WITH ARTICHOKE HEARTS AND PARMESAN
Serves 8 to 10
Total time: 25 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted punchy, concentrated flavors for our artichoke bruschetta, a favorite hors d’oeuvre, so we turned to jarred artichoke hearts and sharp Parmesan cheese. We also wanted to be able to eat it without making a mess, so we pulsed some of the topping ingredients in a food processor until they formed a coarse paste. Spread on the toasted bread, it provided a stable anchor for the shaved Parmesan and drizzled oil. Toast the bread just before assembling the bruschetta. While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichoke hearts in this recipe, you can substitute 6 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred.
1 (10 by 5-inch) loaf rustic bread, ends discarded, sliced crosswise into ¾-inch-thick pieces
2 garlic cloves, peeled (1 whole, 1 minced)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
Salt and pepper
1 cup jarred whole baby artichoke hearts packed in water, rinsed and patted dry
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 ounces Parmesan cheese (1 ounce grated [½ cup], 1 ounce shaved)
1. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Place bread on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil until bread is deep golden and toasted on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Lightly rub 1 side of each toast with whole garlic clove (you will not use all of garlic). Brush rubbed side with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt to taste.
2. Pulse artichoke hearts, basil, lemon juice, minced garlic, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in food processor until coarsely ground, about 6 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add grated Parmesan and pulse to combine, about 2 pulses. Spread artichoke mixture evenly over toasts and top with shaved Parmesan. Season with pepper and drizzle with extra oil to taste. Serve.
ARTICHOKE SOUP À LA BARIGOULE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This classic Provençal-style recipe uses easy jarred artichokes. We seared them to intensify their subtle taste. Cooking the mushrooms covered and then uncovered evaporated excess moisture before browning, and simmering the parsnips brought out their sweetness. Umami-rich anchovy fillets and garlic supplied depth, and leek contributed further sweetness and body. White wine and white wine vinegar brightened up the dish. A little cream brought it all together. We prefer jarred whole baby artichokes here, but you can substitute 18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups jarred whole baby artichoke hearts packed in water, quartered, rinsed, and patted dry
12 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin
1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced ¼ inch thick, and washed thoroughly
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ cup dry white wine
3 cups chicken broth
3 cups vegetable broth
6 ounces parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
2 bay leaves
¼ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning Salt and pepper
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add artichokes and cook until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to cutting board, let cool slightly, then chop coarse. Set aside.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their liquid, 8 to 10 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until mushrooms are dry, about 5 minutes.
3. Stir in leek and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and cook until leek is softened and mushrooms are browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, anchovies, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 1 minute.
4. Slowly whisk in chicken broth and vegetable broth, smoothing out any lumps. Stir in artichokes, parsnips, and bay leaves and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer gently until parsnips are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Off heat, discard bay leaves. Stir in cream, tarragon, and vinegar. Season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste. Serve.
TAGLIATELLE WITH ARTICHOKES AND PARMESAN
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Artichokes and pasta come together in an elegant and ultraflavorful Italian-inspired dish. We trimmed the leaves from the hearts and then gave them a quick soak in water. Drying the hearts promoted deep, nutty browning. Garlic and oregano combined with white wine, olive oil, and Parmesan made a flavorful sauce. Parsley and lemon zest kept the pasta bright without overshadowing the artichoke flavor, and a simple bread-crumb and Parmesan topping gave the dish savory crunch.
TOPPING
2 slices hearty white sandwich bread
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
PASTA
4 cups jarred whole baby artichoke hearts packed in water
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
Salt and pepper
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup dry white wine
1 pound tagliatelle
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup), plus extra for serving
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest
1. For the topping Pulse bread in food processor until finely ground, 10 to 15 pulses. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add bread crumbs and cook, stirring constantly, until crumbs begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add Parmesan and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until crumbs are golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer crumbs to bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. For the pasta Cut leaves from artichoke hearts and place in bowl. Cut hearts in half and pat dry with paper towels. Cover artichoke leaves in bowl with water and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain well.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add artichoke hearts and ⅛ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until spotty brown, 7 to 9 minutes. Stir in garlic, anchovies, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and bring to simmer. Off heat, stir in artichoke leaves.
4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1½ cups cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add 1 cup reserved cooking water, artichoke mixture, Parmesan, parsley, lemon zest, and remaining 3 tablespoons oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and adjust consistency with remaining ½ cup reserved cooking water as needed. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with bread crumbs and extra Parmesan and drizzling with extra oil.