With its tightly knit milky florets and the sculptural green base that entwines them, a head of cauliflower is a truly beautiful thing. And its versatility in the kitchen has caught on for keeps, inspiring chefs everywhere to experiment with new ways of cooking it.
Here in the test kitchen, we’ve developed plenty of recipes that put this vegetable at center stage, whether as a side dish or a main course. When you discover our Roasted Cauliflower with Paprika and Chorizo or our Baja-Style Cauliflower Tacos, you’ll begin to see it in a brand-new light.
Mild-tasting, adaptable cauliflower is positively irresistible when paired with bold, strong flavors, particularly in Whole Pot-Roasted Cauliflower with Tomatoes and Olives, roasted Cauliflower Steaks with Salsa Verde, and Thai Red Curry with Cauliflower. You can also magically blitz it into “rice” to serve as a simple side or a bed for any number of main-course toppings.
In farmers’ markets and some supermarkets, you will often find deep orange or purple cauliflower. Both of these varieties can be substituted for regular white cauliflower. The orange variety has 25 times more vitamin A than white cauliflower, and the purple variety is high in antioxidants.
Romanesco is a beautiful cousin: Key-lime green in hue, and so fractal in appearance that it has even been studied by architects for new models of building design. Our recipe for broiled whole romanesco dusted with the Ethiopian spice blend berbere and served with a tangy yogurt-tahini sauce is a showstopper of a dish that comes together in a flash.
shopping and storage
Cauliflower is readily available year-round, though it’s at its best in the fall and winter. Look for fresh, firm, bright white or deeply colored heads of cauliflower that are free of discolored brown spots and soft spots and that feel heavy for their size, with tightly packed florets and firm leaves without any fading; florets are more likely to separate from older heads of cauliflower. Romanesco should be a bright chartreuse color and similarly free of blemishes.
You can store cauliflower and romanesco in the packaging they come in, but for longer life, transfer them to a loosely closed plastic produce bag in the refrigerator with paper towels wrapped around them. They should keep for a week or longer.
vegetable science
The Silky Side of Cauliflower
All vegetables contain both soluble and insoluble fiber. The first kind breaks down fully during cooking, but the second does not. Cauliflower is very low in fiber overall, and only half of that fiber is insoluble. This meant that we could easily puree cauliflower into a silky-smooth sauce for our modern gratin and make a creamy soup and an Alfredo sauce for pasta without the cream.
vegetable prep
Cutting Cauliflower into Florets
1. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower and cut stem flush with bottom florets, trimming and reserving stem if needed.
2. Place cauliflower head stem side down and cut head into ¾-inch-thick slabs.
3. Working with 1 slab at a time, cut around core to separate florets, reserving core if needed.
4. Cut florets into desired size.
Cutting Cauliflower into Wedges
1. After trimming outer leaves of cauliflower and cutting stem flush with bottom florets, halve cauliflower lengthwise through core.
2. Cut into desired number of wedges by cutting through core into equal-sized wedges, keeping core and florets intact.
Cutting Cauliflower into Steaks
1. After trimming outer leaves of cauliflower and cutting stem flush with bottom florets, halve cauliflower lengthwise through core.
2. Cut one 1½-inch-thick slab from each cauliflower half. Reserve remaining cauliflower for another use.
PAN-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH GARLIC AND LEMON
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Roasting cauliflower is a great way to caramelize its sugars and transform this mild vegetable into something sweet and nutty-tasting. We wanted to create a stovetop method that would deliver oven results in a faster time frame. Heating oil and adding florets resulted in the craggy exteriors browning before the interiors softened. Adding water to the pan to soften the florets resulted in anemic, bland cauliflower. But starting the oil and cauliflower together in a cold pan, first covered, then uncovered, resulted in caramelized, tender florets. A combination of sautéed garlic and lemon zest, plus fresh chopped parsley, perked up the flavors. With a sprinkle of crunchy toasted bread crumbs, our newfangled skillet-roasted cauliflower was complete. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.
1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1½-inch florets
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1. Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Heat bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon oil, pinch salt, and pinch pepper in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until bread crumbs are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer crumbs to bowl and wipe out skillet.
2. Combine 2 tablespoons oil and cauliflower florets in now-empty skillet and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover skillet and cook over medium-high heat until florets start to brown and edges just start to become translucent (do not lift lid during this time), about 5 minutes.
3. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 12 minutes.
4. Push florets to edges of skillet. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, and lemon zest to center and cook, stirring with rubber spatula, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into florets and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until florets are tender but still firm, about 3 minutes.
5. Remove skillet from heat and stir in parsley. Transfer florets to serving platter and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Serve, passing lemon wedges separately.
VARIATIONS
Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Capers and Pine Nuts
Omit bread and reduce oil to ¼ cup. Reduce salt in step 2 to ¾ teaspoon. Substitute 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and minced, for garlic. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives for parsley and stir in ¼ cup toasted pine nuts with chives in step 5.
Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Cumin and Pistachios
Omit bread and reduce oil to ¼ cup. Heat 1 teaspoon cumin seeds and 1 teaspoon coriander seeds in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to spice grinder or mortar and pestle and coarsely grind. Wipe out skillet. Substitute ground cumin-coriander mixture, ½ teaspoon paprika, and pinch cayenne pepper for garlic; lime zest for lemon zest; and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint for parsley. Sprinkle with ¼ cup pistachios, toasted and chopped, before serving with lime wedges.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Recipes for roasting cauliflower typically call for tossing the florets with oil and roasting them on a baking sheet in a very hot oven. But because of their shape, the florets don’t always brown evenly. Our solution was twofold: First, instead of slicing florets, we cut a head of cauliflower into eight wedges, which gave us more—and flatter—surface area for browning. A bonus? There were fewer pieces to flip partway through roasting. Next, we arranged the wedges on a baking sheet, covered them tightly with foil, and set them in a 475-degree oven so that the cauliflower could begin to steam in its own moisture. After we removed the foil, the cauliflower had enough time to caramelize on both sides but not dry out. Paired with smoked paprika and chorizo in one variation, and bacon and scallions in another, the cauliflower tastes so substantial it could almost be a meal. Combined with curry, cilantro, and cashews, it shows its exotic side.
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 8 equal wedges
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Place cauliflower wedges cut side down on parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper to taste; rub gently to distribute oil and seasonings.
2. Cover sheet tightly with aluminum foil and cook for 10 minutes. Remove foil and continue to roast until bottoms of cauliflower wedges are golden, about 15 minutes. Remove sheet from oven and, using spatula, carefully flip wedges. Return sheet to oven and continue to roast until cauliflower is golden all over, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, transfer to serving platter, drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and serve.
VARIATIONS
Roasted Cauliflower with Bacon and Scallions
In step 1, combine 2 tablespoons oil and 4 minced garlic cloves in small bowl before drizzling over cauliflower. Distribute 6 slices bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces, and ½ onion, cut into ½-inch-thick slices, on baking sheet around cauliflower before roasting. In step 2, whisk remaining 2 tablespoons oil with 2 teaspoons cider vinegar in large bowl. Toss roasted cauliflower mixture with oil-vinegar mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste, transfer to serving platter, and sprinkle with 2 thinly sliced scallions.
Roasted Cauliflower with Curry and Lime
In step 1, combine 2 tablespoons oil and 1½ teaspoons curry powder in small bowl before drizzling over cauliflower. Distribute ½ onion, cut into ½-inch-thick slices, on baking sheet around cauliflower before roasting. In step 2, whisk remaining 2 tablespoons oil with 2 teaspoons lime juice in large bowl. Toss roasted cauliflower with oil–lime juice mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste; transfer to serving platter; and sprinkle with ¼ cup toasted and chopped cashews and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro.
Roasted Cauliflower with Paprika and Chorizo
In step 1, combine 2 tablespoons oil and 1½ teaspoons smoked paprika in small bowl before drizzling over cauliflower. Distribute ½ red onion, cut into ½-inch-thick slices, on baking sheet around cauliflower before roasting. In step 2, after removing aluminum foil, distribute 6 ounces chorizo sausage, halved lengthwise and sliced ½ inch thick, on sheet with cauliflower. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons oil with 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar in large bowl. Toss roasted cauliflower mixture with oil-vinegar mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste, transfer to serving platter, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley.
BRAISED CAULIFLOWER WITH GARLIC AND WHITE WINE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 25 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When properly cooked and imaginatively flavored, braised cauliflower can be nutty and slightly sweet, with a pleasing texture. However, it’s easy to overcook braised cauliflower. To avoid this, we needed to quickly braise the florets. We cut them into 1½-inch pieces to reduce the total cooking time. Sautéing the pieces in olive oil imparted nuttiness. Because we wanted the cauliflower to braise for only a short amount of time, we maximized its impact by creating an ultraflavorful broth that the vegetable could absorb. White wine and broth made for a complexly flavored base, and a generous amount of garlic along with a pinch of red pepper flakes added punch and deeper flavor. For the best texture and taste, make sure to brown the cauliflower well in step 1. You will need a skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1½-inch florets
Salt and pepper
⅓ cup chicken or vegetable broth
⅓ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Combine 1 teaspoon oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in small bowl. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add cauliflower florets and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until florets are golden, 7 to 9 minutes.
2. Push florets to sides of skillet. Add garlic mixture to center and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into florets.
3. Stir in broth and wine and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until florets are crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Off heat, stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Braised Cauliflower with Capers and Anchovies
Add 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced, and 1 tablespoon rinsed and minced capers to oil mixture in step 1. Stir 1 tablespoon lemon juice into cauliflower with parsley in step 3.
Braised Cauliflower with Sumac and Mint
Omit wine. Substitute 2 teaspoons ground sumac for pepper flakes and increase broth to ½ cup. In step 3, once cauliflower is crisp-tender, uncover and continue to cook until liquid is almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Substitute 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint for parsley and stir ¼ cup plain yogurt into cauliflower with mint.
WHOLE POT-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH TOMATOES AND OLIVES
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pot-roasted cauliflower has taken the internet by storm. As a hearty side or light vegetarian main, cauliflower braised in an aromatic tomato sauce is making its way into blogs, magazines, and restaurant menus alike. The recipes we came across all started by searing the cumbersome cauliflower first in hopes of browning the exterior. But we found this task unwieldy, with the cauliflower slipping from our tongs and the hot oil spitting at our forearms. After all was said and done, browning was spotty at best. And, once it was coated in a piquant sauce of chunky tomatoes, golden raisins, and salty capers and olives, we couldn’t taste or see the difference between browned and unbrowned cauliflower. So we skipped the hassle. To ensure all of the rich flavors penetrated the dense vegetable, we started by cooking it upside down and spooned some of the sauce into the crevices between the stalk and florets. Then we flipped it right side up, spooned more sauce over the top, and left the pot uncovered to finish cooking. The sauce thickened but remained plentiful and the flavors intensified as the cauliflower became fork-tender.
2 (28-ounce) cans whole peeled tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
6 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced
6 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon salt
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds)
¼ cup golden raisins
¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped coarse
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Pulse tomatoes and their juice in food processor until coarsely chopped, 6 to 8 pulses.
2. Cook oil, anchovies, garlic, and pepper flakes in Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and salt, bring to simmer, and cook until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, trim outer leaves of cauliflower and cut stem flush with bottom florets. Stir raisins, olives, and capers into tomatoes in pot, then nestle cauliflower, stem side up, into sauce. Spoon some of sauce over top, cover, transfer pot to oven, and roast until cauliflower is just tender (paring knife slips in and out of core with some resistance), 30 to 35 minutes.
4. Uncover pot and using tongs, flip cauliflower stem side down. Spoon some of sauce over cauliflower, then scrape down sides of pot. Continue to roast, uncovered, until cauliflower is tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Remove pot from oven. Sprinkle cauliflower with Parmesan and parsley and drizzle with extra oil. Cut cauliflower into wedges and serve, spooning sauce over individual portions.
WHOLE ROMANESCO WITH BERBERE AND YOGURT-TAHINI SAUCE
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This beautiful, fractal-looking vegetable is perfect for cooking whole, as we do in this showstopper of a dish. For a tender interior and nicely charred exterior, we started with the microwave, partially cooking the romanesco. Then we brushed melted butter over the romanesco and transferred it to the oven to finish cooking and develop some browning. We basted the broiled romanesco with more butter and berbere, a warmly aromatic and highly flavorful Ethiopian spice blend. A bright, cooling yogurt sauce and crunchy pine nuts finished it off. Berbere is available in large supermarkets and by mail-order. If you can’t find a 2-pound head of romanesco, purchase two 1-pound heads, and reduce the microwaving time in step 2 to 5 to 7 minutes. You can substitute cauliflower for the romanesco.
YOGURT-TAHINI SAUCE
½ cup whole-milk yogurt
2 tablespoons tahini
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
ROMANESCO
1 head romanesco or cauliflower (2 pounds)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom
⅛ teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons toasted and coarsely chopped pine nuts
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1. For the sauce Whisk all ingredients in bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside until ready to serve.
2. For the romanesco Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Trim outer leaves of romanesco and cut stem flush with bottom florets. Microwave romanesco and 3 tablespoons butter in large, covered bowl until paring knife slips easily in and out of core, 8 to 12 minutes.
3. Transfer romanesco, stem side down, to 12-inch ovensafe skillet. Brush romanesco evenly with melted butter from bowl and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Transfer skillet to oven and broil until top of romanesco is spotty brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, microwave remaining 3 tablespoons butter, paprika, cayenne, coriander, allspice, cardamom, cumin, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in now-empty bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and bubbling, 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Using pot holder, remove skillet from oven and transfer to wire rack. Being careful of hot skillet handle, gently tilt skillet so butter pools to one side. Using spoon, baste romanesco until butter is absorbed, about 30 seconds.
5. Cut romanesco into wedges and transfer to serving platter. Season with salt to taste and sprinkle pine nuts and cilantro over top. Serve with sauce.
GRILLED CAULIFLOWER
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make grilled cauliflower with a tender interior and a flavorful, nicely browned exterior, we first microwaved it until it was cooked through and then briefly grilled it to pick up color and flavor. To ensure that the cauliflower held up on the grill without falling through the grate and to provide sufficient surface area for browning, we cut the head into wedges. Dunking the cauliflower in a salt and sugar solution before microwaving seasoned it all over, even in the nooks and crannies. Look for cauliflower with densely packed florets that feels heavy for its size. Using tongs or a thin metal spatula to gently flip the wedges helps keep them intact. This dish stands well on its own, but to dress it up, serve it sprinkled with 1 tablespoon of Pistachio Dukkah or Almond, Raisin, and Caper Relish (recipes follow).
¼ cup salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 6 equal wedges
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1 tablespoon topping (recipes follow)
Lemon wedges
1. Whisk 2 cups water, salt, and sugar in medium bowl until salt and sugar dissolve. Holding wedges by core, gently dunk in salt-sugar mixture until evenly moistened (do not dry—residual water will help cauliflower steam). Transfer wedges, rounded side down, to large plate and cover with inverted large bowl. Microwave until cauliflower is translucent and tender and paring knife slips easily in and out of thickest stem of florets (not core), 14 to 16 minutes.
2. Carefully (bowl and cauliflower will be very hot) transfer cauliflower to paper towel–lined plate and pat dry with paper towels. Brush cut sides of wedges with 1 tablespoon oil.
3a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place cauliflower, cut side down, on grill and cook, covered, until well browned with spots of charring, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs or thin metal spatula, flip cauliflower and cook second cut side until well browned with spots of charring, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip again so cauliflower is sitting on rounded edge and cook until browned, 1 to 2 minutes.
5. Transfer cauliflower to serving platter. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with chives and topping, and serve with lemon wedges.
Pistachio Dukkah
Makes about ⅓ cup
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The combination of toasted spices, nuts, and seeds makes for a fragrant and crunchy garnish for our grilled cauliflower. This Middle Eastern spice blend also can be sprinkled on a plate of extra-virgin olive oil and served as a dip for bread or sprinkled over soups, grain dishes, or bean salads. If you do not own a spice grinder, you can process the spices in a mini food processor.
1½ tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted
¾ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
½ teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted
2 tablespoons shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped fine
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
Process sesame seeds in spice grinder or mortar and pestle until coarsely ground; transfer to bowl. Process coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and fennel seeds in now-empty grinder until finely ground. Transfer to bowl with sesame seeds. Stir pistachios, salt, and pepper into sesame mixture until combined. (Dukkah can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 1 month.)
Almond, Raisin, and Caper Relish
Makes about ½ cup
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Golden raisins plus briny capers, crunchy almonds, and white wine vinegar make for a sweet, salty, and tangy topping. Champagne vinegar can be used in place of white wine vinegar and regular raisins in place of golden raisins, if desired.
2 tablespoons golden raisins
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted and chopped fine
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped fine
1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley
Pinch red pepper flakes
3–4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Combine raisins and 2 tablespoons hot water in small bowl and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain raisins and chop fine. Toss raisins and vinegar in bowl, then stir in almonds, capers, parsley, and pepper flakes. Stir in 3 tablespoons oil; mixture should be well moistened. If still dry, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
CAULIFLOWER RICE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This shape-shifter of a vegetable approximates cooked white rice surprisingly well, providing a neutral-flavored but more nutrient-dense companion to all sorts of dishes. The key was to blitz the florets in a food processor until transformed into perfect rice-size granules. To make our cauliflower rice foolproof, we worked in batches, making sure all the florets broke down evenly. Next, shallot and a small amount of broth boosted the flavor. To ensure that the cauliflower was tender but still maintained a rice-like chew, we first steamed the “rice” in a covered pot, then finished cooking it uncovered to evaporate any remaining moisture. The faux rice cooked up pleasantly fluffy, making it the perfect accompaniment to any meal.
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1-inch florets (6 cups)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
½ cup chicken or vegetable broth
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Working in 2 batches, pulse cauliflower florets in food processor until finely ground into ¼- to ⅛-inch pieces, 6 to 8 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to bowl.
2. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in cauliflower, broth, and ¾ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
3. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower rice is almost completely dry, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Tex-Mex Cauliflower Rice
Add 1 minced garlic clove, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, and 1 teaspoon ground coriander to saucepan with shallot in step 2. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro for parsley and stir 1 teaspoon lime juice into cauliflower rice with cilantro.
Curried Cauliflower Rice
Add ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom, ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, and ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric to saucepan with shallot. Substitute 1 tablespoon minced fresh mint for parsley and stir ¼ cup toasted sliced almonds into cauliflower rice with mint.
CAULIFLOWER BUFFALO BITES
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS These crunchy, tangy, spicy, and just plain addictive cauliflower bites will be the new star of your game day table. The key was to come up with a flavorful, crunchy coating that would hold up under the Buffalo sauce. A mixture of cornstarch and cornmeal gave us an ultracrisp exterior. But because cauliflower is not naturally moist (like chicken), the mixture didn’t stick; so first we dunked the florets in canned coconut milk, which had just the right viscosity. We got decent results when we baked our bites, but we absolutely flipped over the crackly crust and tender interior we achieved through frying. An herby ranch dressing was a cooling foil to the kick of the bites. We used Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce, but other hot sauces can be used. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more for this recipe. When you open the can of coconut milk, you may notice that it’s separated—there may be a more solid mass above the watery liquid. If so, be sure to mix it together before measuring.
RANCH DRESSING
½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1½ teaspoons minced fresh chives
1½ teaspoons minced fresh dill
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
⅛ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
BUFFALO SAUCE
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
½ cup hot sauce
1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
CAULIFLOWER
1–2 quarts peanut or vegetable oil
¾ cup cornstarch
¼ cup cornmeal
Salt and pepper
⅔ cup canned coconut milk
1 tablespoon hot sauce
1 pound cauliflower florets, cut into 1½-inch pieces
1. For the ranch dressing Whisk all ingredients in bowl until smooth. Refrigerate until serving. (Dressing can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
2. For the buffalo sauce Melt butter in small saucepan over low heat. Whisk in hot sauce, brown sugar, and vinegar until combined. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm; set aside.
3. For the cauliflower Line platter with triple layer of paper towels. Add oil to large Dutch oven until it measures about 1½ inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 400 degrees. While oil heats, combine cornstarch, cornmeal, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Whisk coconut milk and hot sauce together in large bowl. Add cauliflower; toss to coat well. Sprinkle cornstarch mixture over cauliflower; fold with rubber spatula until thoroughly coated.
4. Fry half of cauliflower, adding 1 or 2 pieces to oil at a time, until golden and crisp, gently stirring as needed to prevent pieces from sticking together, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer fried cauliflower to prepared platter.
5. Return oil to 400 degrees and repeat with remaining cauliflower. Transfer ½ cup sauce to clean large bowl, add fried cauliflower and gently toss to coat. Serve immediately with ranch dressing and remaining sauce.
NORTH AFRICAN CAULIFLOWER SALAD WITH CHERMOULA
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chermoula is a traditional Moroccan mixture made with hefty amounts of cilantro, lemon, and garlic. While it’s traditionally used as a marinade for meat or fish, we decided to make it the flavor base for this zippy cauliflower salad. We focused first on the cooking method of the starring vegetable. Roasting was the best choice to add deep flavor to the cauliflower and balance the bright chermoula. To keep the cauliflower from overbrowning on the exterior before the interior was cooked, we started it covered and let it steam until barely tender. Then we removed the foil, added sliced onions, and returned it to the oven to let both the onions and cauliflower caramelize. Adding the onions to the same pan eased their preparation and ensured that they would finish cooking at the same time. To highlight the natural sweetness of the cooked vegetables, we added shredded carrot and raisins, two traditional North African ingredients. The result was a warm and flavorful salad sure to spice up any meal. Use the large holes of a box grater to shred the carrot.
SALAD
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 2-inch florets
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
½ red onion, sliced thin
1 cup shredded carrot
½ cup raisins
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons toasted sliced almonds
CHERMOULA
¾ cup fresh cilantro leaves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1. For the salad Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Toss cauliflower florets with oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange florets in single layer in parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove foil and spread onion evenly in sheet. Roast until vegetables are tender, florets are deep golden, and onion slices are charred at edges, 10 to 15 minutes, stirring halfway through roasting. Let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
2. For the chermoula Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer to large bowl.
3. Gently toss cauliflower-onion mixture, carrot, raisins, and cilantro with chermoula until coated. Transfer to serving platter and sprinkle with almonds. Serve warm or at room temperature.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
CAULIFLOWER BUFFALO BITES
Buffalo-spiced vegetables are being seen more and more often on restaurant menus, and in particular, Buffalo cauliflower has become an uber-popular choice. This makes perfect sense, since cauliflower has so many nooks and crannies to highlight the crunch factor of the batter and trap pockets of the deliciously spicy sauce. It’s easy and fun to create an even better version of this addictively poppable favorite at home.
1. Cut the cauliflower into bite-size florets, about 1½ inches. Discard the tougher core, since those pieces would lend an unappealing woody texture.
2. Combine the cornstarch and cornmeal in a bowl. This dry mixture ensures a very crisp coating that will hold up to both frying and sauce-dunking.
3. Stir together the canned coconut milk and hot sauce in a bowl. Add the cauliflower and stir to coat all the pieces evenly.
4. Sprinkle the cornstarch-cornmeal mixture over the cauliflower–coconut milk mixture and fold everything together with a rubber spatula until thoroughly coated.
5. Fry the cauliflower in the hot oil in batches. Keeping the oil at 400 degrees ensures that every piece will be well browned and supercrispy.
6. It wouldn’t be buffalo cauliflower without the final coating in hot sauce! Serve the hot bites with the cooling ranch dressing.
CAULIFLOWER SOUP
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a creamy cauliflower soup without cream, we relied on cauliflower’s low insoluble fiber content to produce a velvety smooth puree. To ensure that the cauliflower flavor remained at the forefront, we cooked the cauliflower in seasoned water (instead of broth), skipped the spice rack entirely, and bolstered the soup with sautéed onion and leek. We added the cauliflower to the simmering water in two stages so that we got the grassy flavor of just-cooked cauliflower and the sweeter, nuttier flavor of long-cooked cauliflower. Finally, we fried florets in butter until both browned and used each as a separate, richly flavored garnish. White wine vinegar may be substituted for the sherry vinegar. Be sure to thoroughly trim the cauliflower’s core of green leaves and leaf stems, which can be fibrous and contribute to a grainy texture in the soup.
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly
1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
Salt and pepper
4½–5 cups water
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1 cup ½-inch florets, remaining head sliced into ½-inch-thick slabs, core sliced thin
½ teaspoon sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add leek, onion, and 1½ teaspoons salt; cook, stirring frequently, until leek and onion are softened but not browned, about 7 minutes.
2. Increase heat to medium-high; add 4½ cups water, sliced cauliflower core, and half of cauliflower slabs; and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Add remaining cauliflower slabs, return to simmer, and continue to cook until cauliflower is tender and crumbles easily, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. While soup simmers, melt remaining 5 tablespoons butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add cauliflower florets and cook, stirring frequently, until florets are golden and butter is browned and imparts nutty aroma, 6 to 8 minutes. Off heat, use slotted spoon to transfer florets to small bowl. Toss florets with vinegar and season with salt to taste. Set browned butter in skillet aside for garnishing.
4. Process soup in blender until smooth, about 45 seconds. Rinse out saucepan. Return pureed soup to saucepan and return to simmer over medium heat, adjusting consistency with remaining water as needed and seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, garnishing individual serving bowls with browned florets, drizzle of browned butter, and chives.
CAULIFLOWER STEAKS WITH SALSA VERDE
Serves 4
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When you cook thick slabs of cauliflower as vegetarian “steaks,” they develop a substantial, meaty texture and become nutty, sweet, and caramelized. Recipes for cauliflower steaks abound, but many involve fussy transitions between stovetop and oven. To find a simple way to produce four perfectly cooked cauliflower steaks simultaneously, we opted for a rimmed baking sheet and a scorching oven. Steaming the cauliflower briefly by covering the baking sheet with foil, followed by high-heat uncovered roasting on the lowest oven rack, produced dramatic-looking, caramelized seared steaks with tender interiors. To elevate the cauliflower to centerpiece status, we paired it with a vibrant Italian-style salsa verde—a blend of parsley, mint, capers, olive oil, and white wine vinegar. Brushing the hot steaks with the salsa verde ensured they’d soak up all of its robust flavor.
1½ cups fresh parsley leaves
½ cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons water
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
2 heads cauliflower (2 pounds each), cut into four 1½-inch-thick slabs
Lemon wedges
1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Pulse parsley, mint, ¼ cup oil, water, vinegar, capers, garlic, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in food processor until mixture is finely chopped but not smooth, about 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer salsa verde to small bowl and set aside until ready to serve.
2. Place slabs on rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper and rub to distribute. Flip slabs and repeat.
3. Cover baking sheet tightly with aluminum foil and roast for 5 minutes. Remove foil and roast until bottoms of steaks are well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Gently flip steaks and continue to roast until tender and second sides are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Transfer steaks to platter and brush evenly with ¼ cup salsa verde. Serve with lemon wedges, passing remaining salsa verde separately.
THAI RED CURRY WITH CAULIFLOWER
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cauliflower is a good candidate for a vegetable curry because it’s hearty and filling. Thai red curries feature big, eye-opening flavors, so we needed to develop the cauliflower’s deep, nutty flavor so it could shine. Typically we turn to oven roasting, but this felt like an unnecessary step for a quick curry dish. So we confined ourselves to the skillet. First we cooked the cauliflower with water in a covered skillet for about 5 minutes, steaming it until it was just tender. Then we uncovered the skillet to finish the cooking. This uncovered cooking time drove off any remaining water, tenderized the cauliflower further, and allowed it to brown without charring. It took just a few minutes in the skillet at the very end of cooking for the red curry sauce to thicken and for its flavors to bloom. You can use regular basil if you can’t find Thai basil. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. Serve over rice.
1 (13.5-ounce) can coconut milk
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons Thai red curry paste
1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 large head cauliflower (3 pounds), cut into ¾-inch florets
¼ cup water
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ cup fresh Thai basil leaves, torn
1. Whisk coconut milk, fish sauce, sugar, curry paste, lime zest and juice, and pepper flakes together in bowl. Combine 1 teaspoon oil, garlic, and ginger in second bowl.
2. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons oil, cauliflower florets, water, and salt in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cover skillet and cook over high heat until florets start to brown and edges just start to become translucent (do not lift lid), about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until florets are tender and well browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Push florets to sides of skillet. Add garlic mixture to center and cook, mashing mixture into pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into florets and reduce heat to medium-high. Whisk coconut milk mixture to recombine, then add to skillet and simmer until slightly thickened, about 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in basil and serve.
INDIAN-STYLE MIXED VEGETABLE CURRY
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This is possibly the ultimate Indian vegetable curry, with its wide variety of perfectly cooked vegetables and deeply flavorful (but weeknight- friendly) curry sauce. Toasting store-bought curry powder in a skillet made it a flavor powerhouse, and garam masala added even more spice flavor. We also used a generous amount of sautéed onion, garlic, ginger, and fresh chile, as well as tomato paste for sweetness. For the vegetables, we chose potatoes, cauliflower, and peas, plus convenient canned chickpeas. Sautéing the spices and main ingredients together enhanced and melded the flavors. Finally, we rounded out the sauce with pureed canned tomatoes, water, and a splash of coconut milk. For more heat, include the chile seeds and ribs when mincing. We prefer the richer flavor of regular coconut milk here; however, light coconut milk can be substituted. Serve over rice or with naan.
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon curry powder
1½ teaspoons garam masala
2 onions, chopped fine
12 ounces red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ head cauliflower (1 pound), cut into 1-inch florets
1½ cups water
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed
1½ cups frozen peas
½ cup canned coconut milk
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro
1. Pulse diced tomatoes with their juice in food processor until nearly smooth, with some ¼-inch pieces visible, about 3 pulses.
2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add curry powder and garam masala and cook until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Stir in onions, potatoes, and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are browned and potatoes are golden at edges, about 10 minutes.
3. Reduce heat to medium. Stir in garlic, chile, ginger, and tomato paste and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add cauliflower florets and cook, stirring constantly, until florets are coated with spices, about 2 minutes.
4. Gradually stir in water, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in chickpeas and processed tomatoes and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and gently simmer until vegetables are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
5. Uncover, stir in frozen peas and coconut milk, and continue to cook until peas are heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in cilantro, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
VEGAN FETTUCCINE ALFREDO
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Classic fettuccine Alfredo is a special-occasion meal, since it’s so luxuriously loaded with cream, Parmesan cheese, and butter. This vegan version replicates the creamy deliciousness of the original in a far healthier way so that you can enjoy this pasta dish more often. The sauce has a silky base of pureed cauliflower and cashews, with almond milk, coconut oil, and miso paste added to achieve the richness of a savory cream sauce. Just like with classic fettuccine Alfredo, the texture of this sauce changes dramatically after the dish stands for several minutes; serving the pasta in warmed bowls helps ensure that it retains its creamy texture. While we prefer the flavor and texture of almond milk in this recipe, you can substitute coconut milk or soy milk (the sauce will be slightly thicker if made with soy milk).
2½ cups unsweetened almond milk
⅓ cup coconut oil
3 tablespoons white miso
Salt and pepper
10 ounces cauliflower florets, cut into ½-inch pieces (3 cups)
¾ cup raw cashews, chopped
1 pound fettuccine
Pinch ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Combine almond milk, oil, miso, and 1 teaspoon salt in large saucepan and bring to simmer over medium-high heat, whisking to dissolve miso. Stir in cauliflower and cashews, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, partially covered, until cauliflower is very soft and falls apart easily when poked with fork, about 20 minutes.
2. Process cauliflower mixture and ½ cup water in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides as needed. Strain through fine-mesh strainer set over bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much puree as possible; discard solids.
3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until nearly tender. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and set aside in colander.
4. Transfer pureed cauliflower mixture to now-empty pot. Whisk in nutmeg and bring to gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Add drained pasta and cook, stirring constantly, until warmed through and sauce is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle individual portions with parsley, and serve immediately.
CAMPANELLE WITH ROASTED CAULIFLOWER, GARLIC, AND WALNUTS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Bold, rustic flavors and hearty textures make this an exceptional pasta meal. The high-heat roasting transformed the cauliflower from a mild-mannered vegetable into an intensely flavored, sweetly nutty foil for the campanelle, a ruffled cone-shaped pasta that looks a little like a flower. For golden cauliflower, we sliced the head into wedges to create maximum surface area while leaving the core and florets intact. Tossing the cauliflower with a little sugar jump-started the browning; preheating the baking sheet also helped to develop lots of flavor. For the sauce, we focused on a simple lemon–roasted garlic combination, rounded out with fresh parsley and Parmesan. We topped each serving with a handful of pleasingly crunchy toasted walnuts. If campanelle is unavailable, farfalle or fusilli makes a good substitute.
2 garlic heads
6 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 8 equal wedges
Salt and pepper
¼ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus extra for seasoning
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound campanelle
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup), plus extra for serving
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position, place large rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Cut ½ inch off top of each garlic head to expose most of tops of garlic cloves. Place garlic heads, cut side up, in center of 12-inch square of aluminum foil. Drizzle each with ½ teaspoon oil and gather foil tightly around garlic to form packet. Place packet on oven rack next to baking sheet and roast until garlic is very tender, about 40 minutes.
2. While garlic roasts, drizzle cauliflower wedges with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and sugar in bowl; rub gently to distribute oil and seasonings. Remove baking sheet from oven. Carefully lay cauliflower wedges cut side down on hot baking sheet. Roast cauliflower until well browned and tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Transfer cauliflower and garlic packet to cutting board and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, cut cauliflower into ½-inch pieces and unwrap garlic. Gently squeeze garlic cloves from skin into small bowl, and mash smooth with fork. Stir in lemon juice and pepper flakes, then slowly whisk in remaining ¼ cup oil.
4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add chopped cauliflower, garlic sauce, Parmesan, parsley, and ¼ cup reserved cooking water, and toss to combine. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lemon juice to taste. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with walnuts and serve with extra Parmesan.
LAVASH PIZZAS WITH CAULIFLOWER, FENNEL, AND CORIANDER
Makes two 12 by 9-inch flatbreads, serving 4 to 6
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The Middle Eastern flatbread known as lavash has a crisp, cracker-like texture that makes a great base for a quick and easy vegetarian dinner. Store-bought lavash tasted great and kept the recipe streamlined, and to make sure the flatbreads were crisp enough to support the toppings, we brushed them with oil and toasted them quickly in the oven. A combination of cauliflower, fennel, and fragrant coriander made for a simple yet flavorful topping. Two types of cheese, mildly nutty fontina and full-flavored Parmesan, gave our lavash more complex flavor; sprinkling the Parmesan on top and allowing it to brown slightly in the hot oven offered an appealing finish. You will need a 12-inch skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups chopped cauliflower florets
1 fennel bulb, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon ground coriander
Salt and pepper
4 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (1 cup)
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 (12 by 9-inch) lavash breads
2 ounces goat cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
1 scallion, sliced thin
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 475 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add cauliflower florets, fennel, garlic, water, coriander, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 6 to 8 minutes; let cool slightly. Stir in mozzarella and pepper flakes.
2. Brush both sides of lavash with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, lay on 2 baking sheets, and bake until golden brown, about 4 minutes, flipping lavash halfway through baking. Spread cauliflower mixture evenly on each lavash and sprinkle with goat cheese. Bake until cheese is melted and spotty brown, 6 to 8 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Sprinkle with scallion and season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice and serve.
BAJA-STYLE CAULIFLOWER TACOS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A true Baja California experience requires sunny, breezy patios, a plate of tacos, and cold beer. We aimed to re-create the feel of Baja-style fish tacos at home, instead bringing veggies to the forefront. Battered cauliflower, drizzled with a cool, creamy sauce, was the perfect stand-in for the fish. To avoid the mess of deep-frying, we cut the cauliflower into large florets and roasted them after dunking the pieces in coconut milk seasoned with garlic and spices and then rolling them in a mixture of panko bread crumbs and shredded coconut. Not only did this add richness and the flavors of a cabana-shaded getaway, but it also mimicked the crisp crust of batter-fried fish. A crunchy slaw with juicy mango and spicy jalapeño provided a balance of sweetness and heat. For a creamy topping, we blended equal parts mayonnaise and sour cream, plus cilantro and lime zest. For a spicier slaw, add the jalapeño ribs and seeds.
TACOS
3 cups (7½ ounces) coleslaw mix
½ mango, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces (¾ cup)
2 tablespoons lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño
Salt and pepper
1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 cup canned coconut milk
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ head cauliflower (1 pound), cut into 1-inch florets
8–12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed
CILANTRO SAUCE
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
3 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
¼ teaspoon salt
1. For the tacos Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine coleslaw mix, mango, lime juice, cilantro, jalapeño, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. Spray rimmed baking sheet with vegetable oil spray. Combine coconut and panko in shallow dish. Whisk coconut milk, garlic powder, cumin, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt together in bowl. Add cauliflower florets to coconut milk mixture and toss to coat well. Working with 1 floret at a time, remove from coconut milk, letting excess drip back into bowl, then coat well with coconut-panko mixture, pressing gently to adhere; transfer to prepared sheet.
3. Bake until florets are tender, golden, and crisp, 20 to 25 minutes, flipping florets and rotating sheet halfway through baking.
4. For the cilantro sauce Meanwhile, combine all ingredients in bowl; set aside until ready to serve.
5. Divide slaw evenly among warm tortillas and top with florets. Drizzle with cilantro sauce and serve with lime wedges.
CAULIFLOWER CAKES
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Vegetable cakes are a unique, creative addition to the dinner table. These cauliflower cakes have creamy interiors, crunchy browned exteriors, and complex flavors. To ensure that the flavor of the cauliflower didn’t get lost and to drive off excess moisture that would make our cakes fall apart, we cut the cauliflower into florets and roasted them until they were well browned and tender. Tossing the florets with warm spices like turmeric, coriander, and ground ginger gave the cakes an aromatic backbone. Next we needed a binder to hold the shaped cakes together. Egg and flour are standard additions, but we also added some goat cheese to provide extra binding, creaminess, and tangy flavor. Though these cakes held together, they were very soft and tricky to flip in the pan. Refrigerating the cakes for 30 minutes before cooking them proved to be the best solution. The chilled cakes transferred from baking sheet to skillet without a problem and were much sturdier when it came time to flip them.
YOGURT-HERB SAUCE
1 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
CAULIFLOWER CAKES
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1-inch florets
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon pepper
4 ounces goat cheese, softened
2 scallions, sliced thin
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon or lime zest, plus lemon or lime wedges for serving
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1. For the yogurt-herb sauce Whisk yogurt, cilantro, mint, and garlic together in bowl until combined and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, at least 30 minutes.
2. For the cauliflower cakes Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss cauliflower florets with 1 tablespoon oil, turmeric, coriander, salt, ginger, and pepper. Transfer to aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and spread into single layer. Roast until florets are well browned and tender, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to large bowl.
3. Line clean rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Mash florets coarsely with potato masher. Stir in goat cheese, scallions, egg, garlic, and lemon zest until well combined. Sprinkle flour over cauliflower mixture and stir to incorporate. Using wet hands, divide mixture into 4 equal portions, pack gently into ¾-inch-thick cakes about 3½ inches in diameter, and place on prepared sheet. Refrigerate cakes until chilled and firm, about 30 minutes.
4. Line large plate with paper towels. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Gently lay cakes in skillet and cook until deep golden brown and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Drain cakes briefly on prepared plate. Serve with yogurt sauce and lemon wedges.
MODERN CAULIFLOWER GRATIN
Serves 8 to 10
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To create a rich and flavorful but not heavy cauliflower gratin, we relied on cauliflower’s natural ability to become an ultracreamy puree, using it as the sauce to bind the florets together. For a streamlined cooking setup, we placed the cores and stems in water in the bottom of a Dutch oven and set a steamer basket with florets right on top. Butter and Parmesan gave the sauce a rich flavor and texture, and a few pantry spices lent some complexity. Topping the gratin with Parmesan and panko gave it savory crunch, and minced chives added color. When buying cauliflower for this recipe, look for heads without many leaves. If your cauliflower does have a lot of leaves, buy slightly larger heads—about 2¼ pounds each. This recipe can be halved to serve four to six; cook the cauliflower in a large saucepan and bake the gratin in an 8-inch square baking dish.
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup panko bread crumbs
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)
2 heads cauliflower (2 pounds each), cut into 1½-inch florets, stems halved lengthwise then sliced thin crosswise, cores sliced thin (12 cups florets and 3 cups stems and cores)
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon dry mustard
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add panko and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl and let cool. Once cool, add ½ cup Parmesan and toss to combine; set aside.
2. Combine sliced cauliflower stems and cores, 2 cups florets, 3 cups water, and remaining 6 tablespoons butter in Dutch oven and bring to boil over high heat. Place remaining florets in steamer basket. Once mixture is boiling, place steamer basket in pot, cover, and reduce heat to medium. Steam florets in basket until translucent and paring knife slips easily in and out of stem ends, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove steamer basket and set aside florets to drain. Re-cover pot, reduce heat to low, and continue to cook stem mixture until very soft, about 10 minutes. Transfer drained florets to 13 by 9-inch baking dish.
3. Transfer stem mixture and cooking liquid to blender and add 2 teaspoons salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, dry mustard, nutmeg, cayenne, and remaining ½ cup Parmesan. Process until smooth and velvety, about 1 minute (puree should be pourable; adjust consistency with additional water as needed). Combine cornstarch and 1 teaspoon water in small bowl, whisking with fork to dissolve; then, with blender running, add cornstarch slurry to blender. Season cauliflower puree with salt and pepper to taste. Pour puree over cauliflower florets in dish and toss gently to coat (it will be quite loose), then smooth top with spatula.
4. Scatter panko mixture evenly over top. Transfer dish to oven and bake until sauce bubbles around edges, 13 to 15 minutes. Let stand for 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve.
ROAST CHICKEN WITH CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATOES
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken leg quarters are the cauliflower of the poultry world: Both are woefully underused. But why? Chicken leg quarters are cheap, easy to work with, flavorful, and hard to overcook. We wanted to roast them simultaneously with the cauliflower for an easy weeknight dinner with great flavor and minimal cleanup. We whisked lemon, garlic, and chopped sage into olive oil and brushed it onto the chicken. Arranging the vegetables in the middle of the baking sheet and positioning the chicken legs around the edge ensured that everything cooked at the same rate. Tossing a handful of grape tomatoes into the pan and blasting the pan under the broiler at the end made for crispy chicken skin, browned cauliflower, and blistered tomatoes. Some leg quarters are sold with the backbone attached. Remove it before cooking to make serving easier. If you substitute cherry tomatoes, cut them in half before adding them to the baking sheet.
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 8 equal wedges
6 shallots, peeled and halved
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or 2 teaspoons dried
Salt and pepper
4 (10-ounce) chicken leg quarters, trimmed
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving
8 ounces grape tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1. Adjust 1 oven rack to lower-middle position and second rack 6 inches from broiler element. Heat oven to 475 degrees. Gently toss cauliflower wedges, shallots, 2 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon sage, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together on rimmed baking sheet to combine. Position vegetables cut sides down in single layer in center of sheet.
2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels. Leaving drumsticks and thighs attached, make 4 parallel diagonal slashes in chicken: one across drumsticks, one across leg joints, and two across thighs (each slash should reach bone). Season chicken with salt and pepper. Place 1 piece of chicken, skin side up, in each corner of sheet (chicken should rest directly on sheet, not on vegetables).
3. Whisk garlic, lemon zest, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining 1 tablespoon sage together in bowl, then brush all over skin side of chicken. Transfer sheet to lower rack and bake until cauliflower is browned, shallots tender, and chicken registers 175 degrees, 25 to 30 minutes.
4. Remove sheet from oven and heat broiler. Scatter tomatoes over vegetables and place sheet on upper rack. Broil until chicken skin is browned and crisp and tomatoes have started to wilt, 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Transfer sheet to wire rack and let rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges.