Cucumbers, which are native to India, are thought to have been cultivated more than 3,000 years ago. Given their high water content (about 96 percent), they were used to quench thirst in ancient times, and even today, we continue to enjoy this refreshing quality in salads. And while they add a nice substance and crunch to a simple green salad, they can also be the main attraction in a salad, and we believe everyone should have a few of these dishes in their repertoire; for example, the Country-Style Greek Salad and the Parsley-Cucumber Salad with Feta, Walnuts, and Pomegranate.
The simple keys to working with cucumbers are how you cut them, whether or not or when you peel them, and how you ensure that they remain crunchy. We are not dogmatic about the methods and have found them to be very recipe-specific.
Cucumbers have a subtle and appealing vegetal flavor that can be coaxed out in simple preparations like Chilled Cucumber and Yogurt Soup. And certainly no one would debate the fact that fresh, height-of-season cucumbers are great sliced and drizzled with a lively vinaigrette as an accompaniment to grilled or barbecued foods. They also make a great foil to spicy foods—witness our Grilled Thai Beef Salad with Cucumbers, where the bed of sliced English cucumbers catches the spicy marinade. And then there is a whole culinary legacy of cucumber-based dishes worth replicating at home, like Smashed Sichuan Cucumbers and the Tzatziki Sauce with our lamb pitas.
In truth, the mild-mannered cucumber has many wonderful attributes that can put it squarely at center stage given the right technique and recipe. Here are our favorites, both classic and inventive.
shopping and storage
In general, most of the mainstream varieties of cucumbers are readily available year-round. Pickling cucumbers, also called Kirby cucumbers, are more typically available from summer through late fall than at other times of year. Look for specialty cukes like lemon cucumbers at farmers’ markets in the summertime.
When buying cucumbers, look for ones that are firm and solid and don’t have any shriveling skin, soft spots, or yellowing spots. Smaller cucumbers of any variety tend to have fewer seeds and thus less waste. All cucumbers should feel heavy for their size. If you can buy cucumbers that have not been waxed, do so. They are probably fresher than cucumbers that have been coated with wax. If you do buy waxed (regular slicing cucumbers often are sold this way), when you get them home, wrap them in plastic and store them in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator, which will keep them fresh for up to 10 days. Unwaxed cucumbers are more delicate, so they should be stored in a loosely closed plastic produce bag in the refrigerator, where they will keep for up to a week.
vegetable prep
The seeds are watery and add little to finished dishes, so it is best to remove them.
Peel cucumber and halve lengthwise. Run small spoon inside each half to scoop out seeds and any surrounding excess liquid.
The Neatest Way to Smash Cucumbers
For Smashed Sichuan Cucumbers, smashing the cucumbers breaks them up to expose more surface area for the vinaigrette to adhere to.
Cut cucumbers into thirds and place them in zipper-lock bag before gently pounding them with small skillet or rolling pin.
1. Cut ¾-inch section off both ends of cucumbers. Halve cucumbers lengthwise and scoop out seeds with dinner spoon. Cut each seeded half lengthwise into ¼-inch strips.
2. Turn strips 90 degrees and cut into even ¼-inch pieces.
cucumber varieties
There are dozens of cucumber varieties available, very broadly divided into the categories of “slicing cucumbers” and “pickling cucumbers.”
AMERICAN CUCUMBERS Also called garden cucumbers, these slicing cucumbers have thick, somewhat bitter dark-green skin and large, plentiful seeds. They are often sold waxed, which keeps them fresher longer but renders their skin unpleasant. American cucumbers have a crisp texture and mild flavor.
ENGLISH CUCUMBERS Also called seedless or hothouse cucumbers, these slicing cukes are long and slim with thin skins and a medium-crunchy texture that is less watery than that of American cucumbers. They are not actually seedless, but their seeds are tiny. Their flavor is slightly sweet and melony. Seedless cucumbers are often sold shrink-wrapped.
KIRBY CUCUMBERS The most common type of pickling cucumbers, these are small and squat, with dense, crunchy flesh and bumpy skins that can be tough (but not as much as slicing cucumbers). These are our favorite pickling cukes, and they are great in salads as well.
MINI CUCUMBERS Also called Persian cucumbers, these small, slim cucumbers have thin skins, few seeds, and a medium-crunchy texture. Their mild flavor is similar to that of English cucumbers, but they are much smaller in size. They tend to be the most expensive variety.
LEMON CUCUMBERS Still primarily in the domain of farmers’ markets, these petite round cucumbers are starting to become more available at some supermarkets. They have thin golden-colored skins and have a crisp texture and delicate, sweet flavor.
SMASHED SICHUAN CUCUMBERS
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Smashed cucumbers, or pai huang gua, is a Sichuan dish that is typically served with rich, spicy food. We started with English cucumbers, which are nearly seedless and have thin, crisp skins. Placing them in a zipper-lock bag and smashing them into large, irregular pieces sped up a salting step that helped expel excess water. The craggy pieces also did a better job of holding on to the dressing. Using black vinegar, an aged rice-based vinegar, added a mellow complexity to the soy and sesame dressing. We prefer the complex flavor of Chinese Chinkiang (or Zhenjiang) black vinegar in this dish, but if you can’t find it, you can substitute 2 teaspoons of rice vinegar and 1 teaspoon of balsamic vinegar. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. We like to drizzle the cucumbers with Sichuan chili oil when serving them with milder dishes such as grilled fish or chicken.
2 (14-ounce) English cucumbers, ends trimmed
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
4 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar
1 teaspoon garlic, minced to paste
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon sesame seeds, toasted
1. Cut each cucumber crosswise into 3 equal lengths and place in zipper-lock bag. Seal bag. Using small skillet or rolling pin, firmly but gently smash cucumbers until flattened and split lengthwise into 3 to 4 spears each. Tear spears into rough 1-inch pieces and transfer to colander set in large bowl. Toss cucumbers with salt and let sit for at least 15 minutes and up to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk vinegar and garlic together in medium bowl; let sit for at least 5 minutes or up to 15 minutes.
3. Whisk soy sauce, oil, and sugar into vinegar mixture to dissolve sugar. Add cucumbers, discarding any extracted liquid, and sesame seeds to bowl with dressing and toss to combine. Serve immediately.
QUICK PICKLE CHIPS
Makes one 1-pint jar
Total time: 45 minutes (plus 2½ hours chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A snap to make, these quick-pickled cucumber slices are ready to jump in on short notice to brighten up a picnic, barbecue, or weeknight meal. They’re a great fuss-free pickle for a novice and a super go-to recipe for anyone looking to satisfy a craving without the effort involved in larger pickling projects. These chips get a hint of warm pickle spice from black peppercorns, mustard seeds, and turmeric. Fresh dill sprigs add their flavor, as befitting a classic hamburger pickle. To streamline preparation, we chose seasoned rice vinegar—with vinegar, sugar, and salt—and eliminated the work of separately measuring three ingredients. We sliced the cukes into ¼-inch chips using a chef’s knife, though a mandoline or a cutter for making crinkle cuts can also be used for added flair. After 3 hours, these pickles were thoroughly suffused with a lively combination of sweet, sour, and aromatic tones. For guaranteed crunch, choose the freshest, firmest pickling cucumbers (we like Kirby cucumbers) available. Heating the jar with hot water and then draining it before adding the hot brine ensures that the jar won’t crack from the abrupt temperature change. These pickles can be refrigerated for up to six weeks.
¾ cup seasoned rice vinegar
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
⅛ teaspoon black peppercorns
⅛ teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
8 ounces pickling cucumbers, trimmed, sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick
2 sprigs fresh dill
1. Bring ¼ cup water, vinegar, garlic, turmeric, peppercorns, and mustard seeds to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
2. Fill one 1-pint jar with hot water to warm. Drain jar, then pack cucumbers and dill sprigs into jar. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over cucumbers to cover. Let jar cool completely, about 30 minutes.
3. Cover jar with lid and refrigerate for at least 2½ hours before serving.
BREAD-AND-BUTTER PICKLES
Makes four 1-pint jars
Total time: 45 minutes (plus 1 day chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS These bread-and-butter pickles feature a lively balance of sweet and sour flavors, just as they should. Using pickling cucumbers (we prefer Kirbys) and salting them beforehand ensures a crisp texture. Most recipes for these types of pickles call for combining cucumbers and onions in a syrupy spiced brine; we cut back on the sugar and added red bell pepper for its fresh flavor and color. Heating the jars with hot water and then draining them before adding the hot brine ensures that the jars won’t crack from the abrupt temperature change. These pickles can be refrigerated for up to three months; their flavor will continue to mature over time. You can easily double this recipe; just be sure to use a larger pot when making the brine.
2 pounds pickling cucumbers, trimmed and sliced ¼ inch thick crosswise
1 onion, quartered and sliced thin
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch matchsticks
2 tablespoons kosher salt
3 cups cider vinegar
2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
¾ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon celery seeds
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1. Toss cucumbers, onion, and bell pepper with salt in large bowl and refrigerate for 3 hours. Drain vegetables in colander (do not rinse), then pat dry with paper towels.
2. Bring 1 cup water, vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, turmeric, celery seeds, and cloves to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat; remove from heat.
3. Fill four 1-pint jars with hot water to warm. Drain jars, then pack tightly with vegetables. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over vegetables to cover, distributing spices evenly. Let jars cool completely, about 30 minutes.
4. Cover jars with lids and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving.
PARSLEY-CUCUMBER SALAD WITH FETA, WALNUTS, AND POMEGRANATE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 20 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sweet, crisp, nearly seedless English cucumber pairs well with fresh parsley in terms of both flavor and texture in this pretty salad. A surprising but welcome quantity of fresh parsley leaves—3 whole cups—serves as the salad greens in this dish, which makes a crisp, refreshing accompaniment to rich grilled meats. The bracing vinaigrette, made from olive oil, sweet-tart pomegranate molasses, and red wine vinegar, brought layers of flavor, while adding a pinch of cayenne pepper to the dressing gave it a bit of heat. For a beautiful finishing touch and some richness, we topped the salad with thinly sliced feta cheese, chopped toasted walnuts, and juicy, jewel-like pomegranate seeds. Use flat-leaf parsley (also called Italian parsley) rather than curly parsley for this salad.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Pinch cayenne pepper
3 cups fresh parsley leaves
1 English cucumber, halved lengthwise and sliced thin
1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse
½ cup pomegranate seeds
4 ounces feta cheese, sliced thin
Whisk oil, molasses, vinegar, ¼ teaspoon salt, ⅛ teaspoon pepper, and cayenne in large bowl until fully incorporated. Add parsley and cucumber and toss to coat. Add half of walnuts and half of pomegranate seeds and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving platter and top with feta, remaining walnuts, and remaining pomegranate seeds. Serve.
CREAMY CUCUMBER SALAD WITH RADISHES, LEMON, AND MINT
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cucumbers and red onions are a great salad combo: The cucumber gives the salad some heft and juicy crunch, while the bite of red onion serves as a great foil to the cucumber’s subtle flavor. In this recipe, we added peppery sliced radishes and brought everything together with a creamy, lemony dressing. All too often, creamy cucumber salads suffer from limp, flimsy slices of cucumber swimming in a diluted dressing. Here we found that laying the sliced cucumbers on a paper towel–lined baking sheet, instead of the more typical step of salting them, dried them out sufficiently while keeping them crisp. Marinating the onions in vinegar before we added them to the salad tamed their raw strength, and the thick, sour cream–based dressing resulted in a creamy—never watery—cucumber salad.
3 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswise
½ cup thinly sliced red onion
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
½ cup sour cream
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon sugar
Salt and pepper
6 radishes, trimmed and sliced thin
1. Spread cucumber slices in single layer on paper towel–lined baking sheet and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, combine onion and vinegar in bowl and let stand for 20 minutes.
2. Whisk sour cream, mint, lemon zest, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add cucumbers, radishes, and onion-vinegar mixture and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
COUNTRY-STYLE GREEK SALAD
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most versions of Greek salad consist of iceberg lettuce, a few bits of green pepper, and a couple of pale tomato wedges, sparsely dotted with cubes of feta and garnished with one forlorn olive of questionable heritage and a few rounds of cucumber thrown in for good measure. For our Greek salad, we left out the lettuce altogether in favor of a “country style” salad that is popular throughout Greece. Naturally, it features an abundance of crisp, thinly sliced cucumbers. For the bright-tasting dressing, we used a combination of lemon juice and red wine vinegar and added fresh oregano, olive oil, and a small amount of garlic. Briefly marinating the cucumbers and onion in the vinaigrette both flavored the cucumber and tamed the onion’s harshness. We then added ripe tomatoes, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, and fresh mint and parsley, and topped it all with a generous amount of crumbled feta.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
2 English cucumbers, halved lengthwise and sliced thin
½ red onion, sliced thin
6 large ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges
1 cup jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into ½-inch strips
½ cup pitted kalamata olives, quartered
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh mint
5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1¼ cups)
1. Whisk oil, vinegar, oregano, lemon juice, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Add cucumbers and onion, toss to coat, and let sit for 20 minutes.
2. Add tomatoes, red peppers, olives, parsley, and mint to bowl with cucumber-onion mixture and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving dish and sprinkle with feta. Serve.
PITA BREAD SALAD WITH TOMATOES AND CUCUMBER (FATTOUSH)
Serves 4
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The eastern Mediterranean salad fattoush puts cucumbers and tomatoes at center stage along with herbs, toasted pita bread, and bright, tangy sumac. We opted to use an ample amount of ground sumac in the dressing to intensify the flavor, as well as use it as a garnish for the finished salad. Many recipes call for eliminating excess moisture from the salad by taking the time-consuming step of seeding and salting the cucumbers and tomatoes. We skipped this in order to preserve the crisp texture of the cucumber and the flavorful seeds and juice of the tomatoes. Instead, we made the pita pieces more resilient by brushing them with plenty of olive oil before baking, which prevented them from becoming soggy in the dressing. The success of this recipe depends on ripe, in-season tomatoes. Tart, lemony sumac can be found in the spice aisle of larger supermarkets.
2 (8-inch) pita breads
7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons lemon juice
4 teaspoons ground sumac, plus extra for sprinkling (optional)
¼ teaspoon minced garlic
1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into ¾-inch pieces
1 English cucumber, sliced ⅛ inch thick
1 cup arugula, chopped coarse
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup chopped fresh mint
4 scallions, sliced thin
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Using kitchen shears, cut around perimeter of each pita and separate into 2 thin rounds. Cut each round in half. Place pitas smooth side down on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Brush 3 tablespoons oil over surface of pitas. (Pitas do not need to be uniformly coated. Oil will spread during baking.) Season with salt and pepper. Bake until pitas are crisp and pale golden brown, 10 to 14 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
2. Whisk lemon juice; sumac, if using; garlic; and ¼ teaspoon salt together in small bowl and let sit for 10 minutes. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in remaining ¼ cup oil.
3. Break pitas into ½-inch pieces and place in large bowl. Add tomatoes, cucumber, arugula, cilantro, mint, and scallions. Drizzle dressing over top and gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with extra sumac if desired.
ORZO SALAD WITH CUCUMBER, RED ONION, AND MINT
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cucumber really shines when paired with rice-shaped orzo in this pasta salad. An assertive lemony dressing and a few supporting players that always pair nicely with cucumber—namely red onion, feta, and mint—ensured an appealingly bright and flavorful side dish or light lunch. To start, we cooked the orzo in salted water, stirring frequently to keep all the pieces separate; when it was al dente, we drained it and tossed it with a tablespoon of oil to further ensure that it wouldn’t clump. For our dressing, a combo of 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and a full ¼ cup of lemon juice plus minced garlic ensured there would be enough dressing to coat the orzo and all the mix-ins and also deliver the requisite punch of lively flavor.
1¼ cups orzo
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
¼ cup lemon juice (2 lemons)
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ English cucumber, halved lengthwise and sliced thin
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
½ cup finely chopped red onion
½ cup chopped fresh mint
¼ cup thinly sliced scallions
1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add orzo and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain orzo and transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Toss with 1 tablespoon oil and let cool completely, about 15 minutes.
2. Whisk remaining 5 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in large bowl until combined. Add cucumber, feta, onion, mint, scallions, and cooled orzo and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Let salad sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Serve, drizzling with extra oil.
CHILLED CUCUMBER AND YOGURT SOUP
Serves 6
Total time: 20 minutes (plus 1 hour chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Both refreshing and elegant, this chilled soup is the perfect antidote for a swelteringly hot summer’s evening. But because it has so few ingredients, we knew that balance and finesse would be key, especially if the subtle vegetal flavor of the cucumbers was to shine through. A food processor turned our soup mushy, and hand chopping all of the cucumber gave us something watery and inconsistent. We found that blending some of the cucumbers and reserving a final chopped handful as a garnish gave us the smooth consistency we wanted with texture to boot. Peeling and seeding the cucumbers removed any unpleasantly bitter flavors. We tried garlic, shallots, red onion, and scallions in the soup, but they were all too astringent; it was only after we left in just the scallion greens that we found the right balance. Tasters preferred dill and mint to other herb combinations, as they brought out the freshest aspect of this appealing soup.
5 pounds cucumbers, peeled and seeded (1 cucumber cut into ½-inch pieces, remaining cucumbers cut into 2-inch pieces)
4 scallions, green parts only, chopped coarse
2 cups water
2 cups plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper
¼ teaspoon sugar
1½ tablespoons minced fresh dill
1½ tablespoons minced fresh mint
Extra-virgin olive oil
1. Toss 2-inch pieces of cucumber with scallions. Working in 2 batches, process cucumber-scallion mixture in blender with water until completely smooth, about 2 minutes; transfer to large bowl. Whisk in yogurt, lemon juice, 1½ teaspoons salt, sugar, and pinch pepper. Cover and refrigerate to blend flavors, at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.
2. Stir in dill and mint and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, topping individual portions with remaining ½-inch pieces of cucumber and drizzling with oil.
GREEK-STYLE LAMB PITA SANDWICHES WITH TZATZIKI SAUCE
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Tzatziki sauce, with its trademark combination of cucumbers and yogurt laced with salt, garlic, lemon, and mint, is the crowning glory of lamb pita sandwiches. These classic Greek gyros feature seasoned, marinated lamb; the traditional method for cooking the meat employs an electric vertical rotisserie on which layers of sliced and marinated leg of lamb are stacked. After cooking for hours, the meat is shaved with a long slicing knife, creating pieces with crisp exteriors and moist interiors infused with garlic and oregano. We wanted to translate this recipe for the home kitchen. Surprisingly, using ground lamb—which we formed into patties—was easy and came close to reproducing the texture of rotisserie lamb. A modified panade, or wet binder, of pita bread crumbs, lemon juice, and garlic gave our patties a sturdier structure and fuller, more savory flavor. Although we prefer the richness of plain whole-milk yogurt for the sauce, low-fat yogurt can be substituted. If using pocketless pitas, do not cut off the tops in step 4; instead, use a portion of a fifth pita to create crumbs. The skillet may appear crowded when you begin cooking the patties, but they will shrink slightly as they cook.
TZATZIKI SAUCE
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
½ cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces (½ cup)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint or dill
1 small garlic clove, minced
SANDWICHES
4 (8-inch) pita breads
½ onion, chopped coarse
4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 pound ground lamb
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 large tomato, sliced thin
2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
1. For the tzatziki sauce Line fine-mesh strainer set over deep container or bowl with 3 paper coffee filters or triple layer of paper towels. Spoon yogurt into lined strainer, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine cucumber, lemon juice, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in colander set over bowl and let sit for 30 minutes.
3. Discard drained yogurt liquid. Combine yogurt, cucumber, mint, garlic, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in clean bowl.
4. For the sandwiches Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut top quarter off each pita bread. Tear quarters into 1-inch pieces. (You should have ¾ cup pita pieces.) Stack pitas and tightly wrap with aluminum foil. Process onion, lemon juice, oregano, garlic, salt, pepper, and pita bread pieces in food processor until smooth paste forms, about 30 seconds. Transfer onion mixture to large bowl; add lamb and gently mix with your hands until thoroughly combined. Divide mixture into 12 equal pieces and roll into balls. Gently flatten balls into round disks, about ½ inch thick and 2½ inches in diameter.
5. Place foil-wrapped pitas directly on oven rack and heat for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add patties and cook until well browned and crust forms, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, reduce heat to medium, and cook until well browned and crust forms on second side, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer patties to paper towel–lined plate.
6. Using spoon, spread ¼ cup tzatziki sauce inside each pita. Divide patties evenly among pitas; top each sandwich with tomato slices, ½ cup shredded lettuce, and 2 tablespoons feta. Serve immediately.
GRILLED THAI BEEF SALAD WITH CUCUMBERS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this light and refreshing yet satisfying dish, perfectly grilled flank steak is tossed in an aromatic mixture of fish sauce, lime juice, and spices; topped with a chile, herb, and shallot combo; and then arranged over a bed of crisp, cool English cucumber. The flavor elements of Thai cooking—hot, sour, salty, sweet, and bitter—come into harmony here. To grill the beef, we used the test kitchen’s standard half-grill fire, starting the meat over high heat to sear the exterior and then moving it to the cooler side to finish cooking for a perfect medium-rare steak with a nicely charred crust. The dressing for this dish should have a good balance between hot, sour, salty, and sweet to provide a counterpoint to the subtle bitter char of the meat. Fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, and a mix of hot spices provided these elements and the final addition—toasted rice powder made in a food processor—added extra body to the dressing. Don’t skip the toasted rice; it’s integral to the texture and flavor of the dish. Toasted rice powder (kao kua) can also be found in many Asian markets; substitute 1 tablespoon rice powder for the white rice. If fresh Thai chiles are unavailable, substitute ½ serrano chile.
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon white rice
3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes)
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon sugar
1 (1½-pound) flank steak, trimmed
Salt and coarsely ground white pepper
1 English cucumber, sliced ¼ inch thick on bias
4 shallots, sliced thin
1½ cups fresh mint leaves, torn
1½ cups fresh cilantro leaves
1 Thai chile, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin into rounds
1. Heat paprika and cayenne in 8-inch skillet over medium heat; cook, shaking pan, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl. Return skillet to medium-high heat, add rice and toast, stirring constantly, until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to small bowl and let cool for 5 minutes. Grind rice with spice grinder, mini food processor, or mortar and pestle until it resembles fine meal, 10 to 30 seconds (you should have about 1 tablespoon rice powder).
2. Whisk lime juice, fish sauce, water, sugar, and ¼ teaspoon toasted paprika mixture in large bowl and set aside.
3a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour in even layer over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s).
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Pat steak dry and season with salt and white pepper. Place steak on hotter part of grill and cook until beginning to char and beads of moisture appear on outer edges of meat, 5 to 6 minutes. Flip steak and continue to cook on second side until meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes (or up to 1 hour).
5. Line large platter with cucumber slices. Slice steak ¼ inch thick against grain on bias. Transfer sliced steak to bowl with fish sauce mixture. Add shallots, mint, cilantro, Thai chile, and half of rice powder, and toss to combine. Arrange steak over cucumber-lined platter. Serve, passing remaining rice powder and remaining toasted paprika mixture separately.