The umbrella term “legumes” refers to both the dried seeds, like kidney beans and lentils, and the fresh pods, such as green beans and peas. The latter two merit their own chapters in this book, while here we highlight some of the other fresh favorites in this category.
PEANUTS originated in South America, traveled to Africa with Portuguese explorers, and then came to North America on slave-carrying British ships. Today the United States is one of the top three producers worldwide—thanks mostly to our collective love of peanut butter. But the protein-packed peanut shines in recipes both savory and sweet, as in our Kung Pao Shrimp and our Peanut Granola.
A highlight of spring, FAVA BEANS are nutty and buttery, nestled in a wonderfully fuzzy green pod. Boil or roast whole pods to pop open, or try the Fava Bean Crostini with Manchego and Pine Nuts.
EDAMAME are young soybeans. Although we tend to associate soybeans with their processed forms, like tofu and soy milk, fresh young soybeans have a savory, nutty flavor and firm, dense texture. Boiled and salted whole pods are a familiar starter in sushi restaurants everywhere, meant to be popped open with the fingers so the beans inside can be eaten. We also love the beans stir-fried with ginger or in Edamame and Spicy Peanut Noodle Bowl.
In addition to the legumes themselves, we can also eat their BEAN SPROUTS. The Chinese have cultivated bean sprouts for thousands of years; in the States they gained popularity during the health-food craze of the 1970s. They add snappy crunch to stir-fries like our easy Fried Rice with Bean Sprouts and Peas. In our Sizzling Saigon Crêpes, they serve as the filling for savory Vietnamese rice-flour pancakes.
shopping and storage
BEAN SPROUTS Bean sprouts are available year-round. Purchase bean sprouts with white roots and yellow or light green leaves. Don’t buy any bean sprouts that have dark roots or any off-odor or sliminess. They are extremely perishable; wrap them loosely in paper towels and store in an open plastic produce bag in the refrigerator for only a couple of days.
EDAMAME Edamame were once only available in the frozen-food section of the supermarket, both in their pods and pre-shelled. However, they are now far more readily available fresh, in their pods, in the produce section. Look for fresh edamame in late summer and early fall. Pods should be emerald green, plump, and somewhat velvety-looking. We prefer fresh edamame, but frozen are generally an acceptable substitute (preshelled frozen edamame are especially convenient if you are using larger quantities in a recipe). Fresh edamame will keep in an open plastic produce bag in the refrigerator for up to a week.
FAVA BEANS Fava beans are in season from mid- to late spring. These sturdy bright light green pods are napped with velvety fuzz. The smaller pods will have tender, sweet beans; avoid any with brown spots or overly large beans bulging the pods too much (those favas will be tough and woody). Store fresh favas in an open plastic produce bag in the refrigerator for a week or longer. Frozen favas are available (both in the pod and shucked) and can be a good substitute for the seasonal fresh version. We don’t suggest the bottled favas that are often seen in supermarkets, because they have tough skins and are high in sodium.
PEANUTS Peanuts are available year-round, in both raw and dry-roasted form (“raw” peanuts have actually been air-dried to remove some of their moisture for long-term storage). The recipes here use both raw and dry-roasted peanuts. Store peanuts in an airtight container in a cool, dry cupboard or the freezer for up to six months.
fresh legumes by any other name
BEAN SPROUTS Although any type of bean can be sprouted, the plump white bean sprouts we see most frequently in the market come from the small, bright green mung bean. Soybeans are another common source of bean sprouts. (Seeds can also be sprouted; for example, alfalfa sprouts are the thin filaments that are often used as sandwich toppings.)
EDAMAME Though the terms “edamame” and “soybeans” are often used interchangeably, there is a slight difference: Soybeans are the mature beans, whereas edamame are the immature beans, harvested while they are still green and young. All soybeans are noteworthy due to their high concentration of phytonutrients called isoflavones, plant hormones that may help prevent certain types of cancer. They are also the only beans that contain all of the essential amino acids.
FAVA BEANS Also called broad beans or field beans, these members of the pea family have been a staple of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines for centuries. They somewhat resemble lima beans. After removing fava beans from their outer, inedible pod, you must then remove the waxy sheath that covers each bean; blanching is the best way to make this process easier.
PEANUTS Although “nut” is in the name, peanuts are indeed legumes, edible seeds that grow in pods (their shells). Unlike tree nuts, such as almonds and walnuts, peanuts grow below the surface of the soil. True fresh peanuts, called “green” peanuts, straight from the plant, are highly perishable and need to be eaten within a few days. For this reason, they are not usually found outside their growing regions.
vegetable prep
Preparing Fava Beans for Cooking
1. Use paring knife to snip off tip of pod. Pull apart sides of pod to release beans.
2. Blanch beans in boiling water for 1 minute, then plunge into ice water for 2 minutes to cool. Pat dry with paper towels.
3. Using paring knife, make small cut along edge of each bean through waxy sheath, then gently squeeze sheath to release bean; discard sheath.
BOILED PEANUTS
Makes about 16 cups
Total time: 8 hours 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Boiled peanuts are a beloved snack in the southern United States, where they are sold in small paper bags from roadside stands. If you live outside the South, you may never have tasted this treat, but it’s a delicious snack and nutritious alternative to shell-on roasted peanuts. For our recipe, we found that the typical method of boiling raw, shell-on (not roasted) peanuts in heavily seasoned water was the most common cooking method for good reason: It worked best. Cooking the peanuts covered for 5 to 6 hours and letting them cool in the cooking water for another 2 hours ensured that they were perfectly tender. They should have the texture and consistency of a cooked dried bean. If you’re using fresh green peanuts, which are available in late summer and early fall, reduce the cooking time to about 2 hours.
2 pounds raw, shell-on peanuts
1 cup salt
Combine peanuts, 2 gallons water, and salt in 12-quart stockpot. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until peanuts are tender, about 6 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and let peanuts cool completely in water, about 2 hours. Strain and serve.
PEANUT GRANOLA
Makes about 9 cups
Total time: 1 hour (plus 1 hour cooling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Store-bought granola is convenient but too often chock-full of pale, dried-out oats and stale-tasting nuts. It provides texture but not a whole lot of flavor. This homemade granola focuses simply on roasted peanuts and oats; it has an ideal crispy, crunchy texture, and you can break it up into whatever size pieces you like. We found that the secret to perfect crunchiness was to firmly pack the granola mixture into a rimmed baking sheet before baking. Once it was baked, we had a granola “bark” that we could break into crunchy clumps of any size. Caramel sauce, maple syrup, and salt added a welcome buttery flavor and an ideal salty-sweet balance—and we didn’t skimp on the amounts. This would be as delicious sprinkled over ice cream as it would be with yogurt for breakfast. Do not use quick oats in this recipe.
¾ cup caramel sauce
½ cup vegetable oil
⅓ cup maple syrup
4 teaspoons vanilla extract
1½ teaspoons salt
5 cups (15 ounces) old-fashioned rolled oats
2 cups (10 ounces) unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, chopped
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spray parchment with vegetable oil spray. Whisk caramel, oil, maple syrup, vanilla, and salt together in large bowl. Stir in oats and peanuts until thoroughly combined.
2. Transfer oat mixture to prepared sheet and spread in even layer. Using stiff metal spatula, press down firmly on oat mixture until very compact. Bake until lightly browned, 35 to 40 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking.
3. Transfer sheet to wire rack and let granola cool completely in sheet, about 1 hour. Break cooled granola into pieces of desired size. Serve. (Granola can be stored in airtight container for up to 2 weeks.)
GINGERY STIR-FRIED EDAMAME
Serves 4
Total time: 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Superfast and superflavorful, this quick side dish makes for a great weeknight accompaniment to practically any protein. The toasted sesame oil amplified the nuttiness of the edamame, and a generous amount of fresh ginger gave the fresh legumes an aromatic, spicy punch. Soy sauce stirred in at the end tied all the flavors together. You can substitute frozen, thawed, and patted dry edamame beans for fresh here. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.
12 ounces shelled edamame beans (2 cups)
½ cup water
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 scallion, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1. Cook edamame and water in 12-inch nonstick skillet, covered, until edamame are nearly tender, about 7 minutes. Uncover and cook until water evaporates and edamame are tender, about 2 minutes longer.
2. Push edamame to sides of skillet. Add sesame oil, scallion, and ginger to center and cook, mashing mixture into pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir mixture into edamame, then stir in soy sauce. Serve.
FAVA BEAN CROSTINI WITH MANCHEGO AND PINE NUTS
Serves 8 to 10
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Showcasing the rich flavor and buttery texture of fava beans, this sophisticated hors d’oeuvre is a surefire crowd-pleaser. Although fresh favas do require some prep work, the results are well worth the effort. The beans must first be removed from their tough outer pod, and then the translucent waxy sheath covering each bean should also be removed. To preserve the creamy-tangy flavor of the beans, we simmered them with aromatic shallot, garlic, and cumin. Once the beans were softened and most of the water evaporated, we used a potato masher to turn them into a smooth, creamy topping. Stirring in lemon juice and parsley added a final fresh flavor punch. We spread the fava puree onto crispy thin toasted baguette slices and garnished them with Manchego cheese shavings and toasted pine nuts. This recipe works best with fresh fava beans, but if you can’t find them, you can substitute 1 pound (3 cups) frozen shucked fava beans, thawed. Skip step 2 if using frozen favas. Be sure to set up the ice water bath before cooking the fava beans, as plunging them immediately in the cold water after blanching retains their bright green color and ensures that they don’t overcook.
24 (¼-inch thick) slices baguette (1 baguette)
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
Salt and pepper
3 pounds fava beans, shelled (3 cups)
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 ounce Manchego cheese, shaved
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Place baguette slices in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Bake until golden and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes, flipping slices halfway through baking. Brush bread with 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt. Let cool completely on sheet, about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Add fava beans to boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Using slotted spoon, transfer fava beans to ice water and let cool, about 2 minutes. Transfer fava beans to triple layer of paper towels and dry well. Using paring knife, make small cut along edge of each bean through waxy sheath, then gently squeeze sheath to release bean; discard sheath.
3. Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in fava beans, 1 cup water, and ½ teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Cook until fava beans are softened and most of liquid has evaporated, 12 to 15 minutes.
4. Off heat, using potato masher, mash bean mixture until mostly smooth. Stir in parsley and lemon juice and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.
5. Spread fava bean mixture evenly over toasted baguette slices and top with Manchego and pine nuts. Drizzle with extra oil to taste. Serve.
FAVA BEAN AND RADISH SALAD
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This vibrant, flavorful salad featuring fava beans, radishes, and pea shoots celebrates springtime in every bite. Since it takes a bit of time to prepare fresh favas, we wanted to make sure this salad was interesting enough to be worth the effort. The fresh pea shoots supplied a layer of texture and a bit of natural sweetness. We added thin half-moons of peppery radishes to provide a nice crunchy, spicy bite as well as flecks of contrasting red-and-white color to our otherwise green salad. Basil and a lemony vinaigrette were the final additions. This recipe works best with fresh fava beans, but if you can’t find them, you can substitute 1 pound (3 cups) frozen shucked fava beans, thawed. Skip step 1 if using frozen favas. Be sure to set up the ice water bath before cooking the fava beans, as plunging them immediately in the cold water after blanching retains their bright green color and ensures that they don’t overcook.
3 pounds fava beans, shelled (3 cups)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
10 radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced thin
1½ ounces (1½ cups) pea shoots
¼ cup chopped fresh basil
1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Add fava beans to boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Using slotted spoon, transfer fava beans to ice water and let cool, about 2 minutes. Transfer fava beans to triple layer of paper towels and dry well. Using paring knife, make small cut along edge of each bean through waxy sheath, then gently squeeze sheath to release bean; discard sheath.
2. Whisk oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt, pepper, and coriander together in large bowl until combined. Add fava beans, radishes, pea shoots, and basil and gently toss to coat. Serve immediately.
EDAMAME SALAD
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Edamame are a great base for salads because their bright, fresh flavor and satisfying pop of texture pair perfectly with leafy greens and a variety of vegetables. However, keeping the focus on the edamame was a challenge, as tart vinaigrettes or bold-flavored vegetables easily overpowered the beans’ mildness. Baby arugula worked well as a flavor and texture complement, thanks to its subtle peppery flavor and delicate, tender leaves. Lots of mint and basil helped to bring a light, summery flavor to the salad. Thinly sliced shallot added mild onion flavor, and just a couple of radishes added crunch and color. For the vinaigrette, we chose to use rice vinegar for its mild acidity, incorporating a little honey for sweetness and to help emulsify the dressing. One small clove of garlic added its flavor without taking over the dish. The finishing touch was a sprinkling of roasted sunflower seeds, which added nuttiness and depth to this bright salad. You can substitute frozen edamame beans that have been thawed and patted dry for the fresh edamame in this recipe.
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1 small garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
18 ounces shelled edamame beans (3 cups)
2 ounces (2 cups) baby arugula
½ cup shredded fresh basil
½ cup chopped fresh mint
2 radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced thin
1 shallot, halved and sliced thin
¼ cup roasted sunflower seeds
Whisk vinegar, honey, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt together in large bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly whisk in oil until combined. Add edamame, arugula, basil, mint, radishes, and shallot and toss to combine. Sprinkle with sunflower seeds and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND PEANUT CHILI WITH QUINOA
Serves 6
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Stews and soups made with peanuts are staples of African cuisines. This stick-to-your-ribs African-style vegetable chili is aromatic and boldly flavored with coconut milk, garlic, and ginger. It gets its silky body from a combination of blended dry-roasted salted peanuts and squash, which we roasted with chopped onions until both the squash and the onions started to char around the edges, giving the dish an incredible backbone of flavor. Pureeing a portion of the roasted vegetables with the peanuts created a rich, smooth base. We sautéed sweet bell pepper and spicy jalapeño and briefly bloomed the warm spices before adding the liquid. A combination of diced tomatoes and coconut milk made a creamy but bright broth, and nutty quinoa added heartiness and textural interest. If you buy unwashed quinoa (or if you are unsure whether it’s washed), be sure to rinse it before cooking to remove its bitter protective coating (called saponin). Serve with hot sauce.
3 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces (9 cups)
2 onions, chopped
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
5 cups water, plus extra as needed
¾ cup dry-roasted salted peanuts, chopped
1 large red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¾ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
1 cup prewashed white quinoa
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro or parsley
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss squash, onions, ¼ cup oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl to coat. Arrange vegetables in even layer over 2 rimmed baking sheets. Roast vegetables, stirring occasionally, until tender, 45 to 50 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through roasting.
2. Process ½ cup roasted vegetables, 2 cups water, and ¼ cup peanuts in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute.
3. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add bell pepper, jalapeño, and 2 teaspoons salt and cook until peppers begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, cayenne, and ¾ teaspoon pepper, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
4. Stir in remaining 3 cups water, tomatoes and their juice, coconut milk, and quinoa and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until quinoa is tender, about 15 minutes.
5. Stir in pureed vegetable mixture and remaining roasted vegetables and cook until warmed through, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with additional hot water as needed. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with cilantro and remaining ½ cup peanuts.
EDAMAME AND SPICY PEANUT NOODLE BOWLS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by the sweet, savory, and spicy flavors of Southeast Asia, this noodle bowl is a real stunner, boasting a colorful medley of simple but texturally interesting toppings. We combined tender rice noodles with savory edamame, tangy lightly pickled carrots, and crunchy cabbage, and we draped it all with a rich peanut sauce that’s a little spicy, a little sweet, and enlivened with a hint of curry powder for aromatic appeal. Instead of taking the time to pickle our carrots in advance of making the dish, we simply added seasoned rice vinegar to shredded carrots and let them sit while the rice noodles soaked and softened. After the 20-minute soaking period, we started the cooking process by first quickly sautéing the edamame just until they were speckled brown but still maintained a tender-crisp texture and fresh flavor. After removing the edamame from the skillet, we finished cooking the noodles in the same pan with half the sauce and some water until the noodles were perfectly tender and chewy. After topping our bowls with the veggies, we added plenty of garnishes—chopped peanuts, fragrant Thai basil, lime wedges, and a drizzle of additional sauce. If you can’t find Thai basil, you can substitute regular basil. You can substitute frozen shelled edamame beans for fresh in this recipe. We prefer the flavor of seasoned rice vinegar in this recipe.
PEANUT SAUCE
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 Thai, serrano, or jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1½ teaspoons curry powder
½ cup water, plus extra as needed
⅓ cup creamy peanut butter
3 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
NOODLES
1 cup shredded carrots
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
12 ounces (¼-inch-wide) rice noodles
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 ounces shelled edamame beans (1 cup)
1 cup shredded red cabbage
⅓ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped
2 tablespoons torn fresh Thai basil
Lime wedges
1. For the peanut sauce Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add Thai chiles, garlic, ginger, and curry powder and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water, peanut butter, vinegar, soy sauce, and sugar and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly and flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Adjust consistency as needed with additional water; set aside off heat.
2. For the noodles Combine carrots and vinegar in small bowl; set aside. Cover noodles with very hot water in large bowl and stir to separate. Let noodles soak until softened, pliable, and limp but not fully tender, about 20 minutes. Drain noodles.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add edamame and cook until spotty brown but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl. In now-empty skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat until shimmering, add drained noodles, 1¼ cups water, and ½ cup peanut sauce and cook until sauce has thickened slightly and noodles are well coated and tender, about 1 minute.
4. Divide noodles among individual serving bowls, then top with carrots, edamame, and cabbage. Drizzle with remaining peanut sauce, sprinkle with peanuts and basil, and serve with lime wedges.
FRIED RICE WITH BEAN SPROUTS AND PEAS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This simple fried rice transforms a handful of basic ingredients into a restaurant-worthy dish that’s faster and far tastier than takeout. Sweet baby green peas, crunchy-juicy bean sprouts, and pungent scallions add the vegetable interest here. Using chilled cooked rice is key to achieving the best texture in any fried rice, but we rarely have leftover rice on hand. To get freshly cooked rice to act like leftover rice, we used a three-pronged approach: First we sautéed the rice in oil to keep the grains separate; then we cooked it in less water than usual, making it drier from the start; and finally, we encouraged the rice to cool quickly by spreading it on a baking sheet and refrigerating it for 20 minutes. To make sure the eggs didn’t overcook, we scrambled them lightly and then removed them from the pan while we combined the sauce and the rice. The tender peas and bean sprouts didn’t need much cooking, so we added them at the end so they could just warm through. We prefer baby peas in this recipe, but regular peas can be substituted.
RICE
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups jasmine rice or long-grain white rice, rinsed
2⅔ cups water
STIR-FRY
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup oyster sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup frozen baby peas, thawed
2 ounces (1 cup) bean sprouts
5 scallions, sliced thin
1. For the rice Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add rice and stir to coat. Stir in water and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until rice is tender and water is absorbed, 16 to 18 minutes. Off heat, lay clean folded dish towel underneath lid and let sit for 10 minutes. Spread rice onto rimmed baking sheet and let cool for 10 minutes. Transfer to refrigerator and chill for 20 minutes. (Chilled rice can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
2. For the stir-fry Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add eggs and cook, without stirring, until just beginning to set, about 20 seconds. Continue to cook, stirring constantly with rubber spatula and breaking curds into small pieces, until eggs are cooked through but not browned, about 30 seconds; transfer to bowl.
3. Whisk oyster sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, and garlic in bowl until combined; set aside. Break up any large clumps of rice with your fingers. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add rice and cook until beginning to sizzle and pop loudly, about 3 minutes. Add sauce and cook, stirring and folding constantly, until rice is heated through and evenly coated with sauce, about 3 minutes. Stir in eggs, peas, bean sprouts, and scallions and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Serve.
ALMOST HANDS-FREE RISOTTO WITH FAVA BEANS, PEAS, AND ARUGULA
Serves 6
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Celebrate the flavors of springtime with a green-and-white risotto showcasing fresh legumes. The texture of the nutty, buttery fresh fava beans works well with the firm yet tender rice, and the green peas and arugula add serious vegetal punch. To minimize the constant stirring associated with classic risotto, we chose to cook this in a Dutch oven rather than a saucepan. A Dutch oven’s thick, heavy bottom, deep sides, and tight-fitting lid are made to trap and distribute heat as evenly as possible. Also, we added most of the broth at once, rather than in small increments. Then we covered the pan and simmered the rice until almost all the broth had been absorbed, stirring just twice. After adding the second and final addition of broth, we stirred the pot for a few minutes to make sure the bottom didn’t cook more quickly than the top and then turned off the heat. The rice turned out perfectly creamy, velvety, and just barely chewy. To finish, we stirred in butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, and some chopped arugula to brighten the flavors. This more hands-off method does require precise timing, so we strongly recommend using a timer. This recipe works best with fresh fava beans, but if you can’t find them, you can substitute 5 ounces (1 cup) frozen shucked fava beans, thawed. The consistency of risotto is largely a matter of personal taste, so if you prefer a brothy risotto, add extra broth in step 4.
5 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1½ cups water
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, chopped fine
Salt and pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
1 pound fava beans, shelled (1 cup)
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)
2 ounces (2 cups) baby arugula, chopped
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1. Bring broth and water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low to maintain gentle simmer.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and ¾ teaspoon salt and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in rice and cook, stirring often, until grain edges begin to turn translucent, about 3 minutes.
3. Stir in wine and cook, stirring constantly, until fully absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in 5 cups hot broth mixture. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until almost all liquid has been absorbed and rice is just al dente, 16 to 19 minutes, stirring twice during cooking.
4. Add ¾ cup hot broth mixture and stir gently and constantly until risotto becomes creamy, about 3 minutes. Stir in fava beans, peas, and Parmesan. Remove pot from heat, cover, and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir in arugula, lemon juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Before serving, stir in remaining hot broth mixture as needed to loosen consistency of risotto.
SIZZLING SAIGON CRÊPES
Serves 8 (makes 9 crêpes)
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Named for the sound these crêpes make when the batter hits a hot wok, sizzling Saigon crêpes are best described as paper-thin Vietnamese pancakes. These crispy, yellow, rice-flour crêpes are wrapped with lettuce and fresh herbs and dipped into a sweet-tart dipping sauce. Though pork and shrimp are often used for the stuffing, we created this lighter vegetable-based version with a simple filling of bean sprouts, shredded carrots, and sliced onions. The batter for the crêpes is simple: just water, rice flour, and coconut milk. To give them a subtle savory flavor, we added scallions and turmeric. To make the flipping and folding of these delicate crêpes easier, we cooked them in a 10-inch nonstick skillet instead of a traditional wok. For the dipping sauce, we combined fish sauce with lime juice, sugar, minced fresh chiles, and garlic. You can find rice flour in the baking aisle of most well-stocked supermarkets; you cannot substitute regular flour or cornstarch for the rice flour. If you can’t find Thai basil, you can substitute regular basil. To allow for trial and error (just in case), the recipe yields nine crêpes.
DIPPING SAUCE AND GARNISH
⅓ cup fish sauce
¼ cup warm water
3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes)
2 tablespoons sugar
2 Thai, serrano, or jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 garlic clove, minced
2 heads red or green leaf lettuce, leaves separated
1 cup fresh Thai basil leaves
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
CRÊPES
2¾ cups water
1¾ cups rice flour
½ cup coconut milk
4 scallions, sliced thin
Salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 onion, halved and sliced thin
1 pound carrots, peeled and shredded
6 ounces (3 cups) bean sprouts
1. For the dipping sauce and garnish Whisk fish sauce, warm water, lime juice, sugar, chiles, and garlic in bowl until sugar dissolves. Divide dipping sauce among 8 small dipping bowls. Arrange lettuce, basil, and cilantro on serving platter.
2. For the crêpes Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Whisk water, flour, coconut milk, scallions, 1 teaspoon salt, and turmeric in bowl until combined.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to bowl. Add carrots to skillet and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl with onions and let cool slightly. Stir in bean sprouts and set vegetable mixture aside.
4. Wipe out skillet with paper towels. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Whisk batter to recombine, then pour ½ cup batter into skillet while swirling pan gently to distribute it evenly over pan bottom. Reduce heat to medium and cook crêpe until edges pull away from sides and are deep golden, 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Gently slide spatula underneath edge of crêpe, grasp edge with your fingertips, and flip crêpe. Cook until spotty brown on second side, 2 to 3 minutes. Slide crêpe out of skillet and onto prepared wire rack and transfer to oven to keep warm. Repeat with remaining oil and remaining batter.
6. Divide vegetable mixture evenly among crêpes and fold crêpes in half. Serve crêpes with dipping sauce, passing garnish platter separately. (To eat, slice off wedge of crêpe, nestle basil and cilantro in lettuce leaf, wrap wedge in lettuce, and dip into sauce.)
KUNG PAO SHRIMP
Serves 4
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sweet, spicy, and iconic, kung pao is a classic Sichuan preparation that is distinguished by its use of peanuts, vegetables, and chile peppers. Chicken is the most typically used protein in the dish, but for our version we decided to infuse delicate shrimp with the bold flavor of the kung pao sauce. The dry-roasted peanuts, stirred in at the end of the shrimp’s cooking time, added plenty of crunchy texture and nutty flavor. For the vegetables, we kept it simple, focusing on sweet peppers and scallions; we sautéed the red bell peppers to give them a touch of char, and stirred in the scallions at the end to retain their oniony punch. The sauce thickened just a bit as it cooked, giving the dish the requisite silky consistency. You can substitute 1 teaspoon of dried red pepper flakes for the arbol chiles. Do not eat the whole chiles in the finished dish. Serve with rice.
SAUCE
¾ cup chicken or vegetable broth
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
2 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar or plain rice vinegar
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1½ teaspoons cornstarch
SHRIMP
1 pound extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
½ cup dry-roasted peanuts
6 arbol chiles
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces
3 scallions, sliced thin
1. For the sauce Whisk all ingredients together in bowl; set aside.
2. For the shrimp Toss shrimp with rice wine and soy sauce in bowl and let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and ginger in small bowl; set aside. Combine peanuts and chiles in second small bowl; set aside.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add shrimp and cook, stirring every 10 seconds, until barely opaque, 30 to 40 seconds. Add peanut mixture and continue to cook until shrimp are almost completely opaque and peanuts have darkened slightly, 30 to 40 seconds. Transfer mixture to clean bowl.
4. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 45 seconds. Push bell pepper to sides of skillet. Add garlic mixture to center and cook, mashing mixture into pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir mixture into bell pepper. Stir shrimp mixture and any accumulated juices into bell pepper mixture in skillet. Whisk sauce to recombine, add to skillet, and cook, stirring constantly and scraping up any browned bits, until sauce has thickened to syrupy consistency, about 45 seconds. Stir in scallions and serve immediately.