Hearty greens, also called winter greens, are sturdy green-leaved vegetables, related to cabbage, that are at their best in the colder months. What’s included in this category could be open to some debate, but here we’ve focused on kale (both curly and Lacinato), collard greens, and mustard greens. While escarole can be considered a winter green, we’ve included it in the chicory chapter—and we’ve devoted an entire chapter to Swiss chard.
COLLARDS are a staple of Southern cooking, and many Southern cooks insist that the only proper preparation involves long, slow cooking and plenty of cured pork. Thanks to their earthy, naturally slightly smoky flavor, they’re swooningly good cooked this way, as in the Southern Braised Collard Greens. But they’re also delicious cooked quickly, with simple flavors, as in our Quick Collard Greens.
KALE’S wild popularity, which exploded in the first decade of this century, shows no sign of subsiding. People even wear “Eat More Kale” T-shirts, and farmers are having trouble keeping up with demand. Not bad for a vegetable that was considered a useless garnish not so long ago. Ruffled dark green kale has a pleasant rich cabbagey flavor that’s never bitter or spicy. Its underlying sweetness comes to the forefront when cooked. We show you how to braise it quickly, and also slowly, and turn it into three different kinds of kale chips, and how to massage raw leaves for our superfood-packed Kale Salad with Sweet Potatoes and Pomegranate Vinaigrette.
Aptly named MUSTARD GREENS bring the spice to this trio, and really do taste a bit reminiscent of prepared mustard. We especially love them with Asian flavors, as in the Udon Noodles with Mustard Greens and Shiitake-Ginger Sauce.
shopping and storage
Fall and winter are the traditional seasons for hearty, cold-resistant greens, although they are often available in supermarkets year-round. Darker-colored greens like collards and kale should have rich, deep green color and very firm, stiff leaves. Mustard greens should be a brilliant lighter green, with crisp leaves. Across the board, the leaves should not have any yellowing, browning, or wilting. If you have a choice, purchase bunches with thinner rather than thicker stems; the leaves will be more tender. To store any hearty green, wrap in paper towels inside an open plastic produce bag in the refrigerator for several days.
hearty greens by any other name
COLLARD GREENS Collard greens have large, broad, flat, very stiff leaves—almost like fans—with firm veins running through them. They have a mild flavor and taste and feel a bit like cabbage, which won’t be surprising once you know that this green is technically a cabbage.
CURLY KALE Curly kale (also called green kale) has broad, dark green, wonderfully curly and frilly leaves. It has an earthy, grassy flavor that takes on nutty notes when cooked. It’s a true powerhouse of vitamin A, with double the amount typically found in other leafy greens.
LACINATO KALE Lacinato kale (also called Tuscan kale, dinosaur kale, or black kale) has long, slender, very dark green leaves. It has a sweet, mineral-y flavor and a tender texture when eaten raw, and it becomes robust and rich when braised.
MUSTARD GREENS “Mustard greens” actually encompasses several varieties. Most commonly you’ll see narrow, bright green frilly leaves with a leafier, less leathery texture than other hearty greens. Mustard greens can also have a purplish tinge, and the leaves can also be flat. They’re peppery and pleasantly sharp-hot in flavor.
vegetable prep
Preparing Hearty Greens For Cooking
Hearty greens have very tough stems that need to be cut away from the leaves and discarded before using the leaves in a recipe.
1. Cut away leafy portion from either side of stalk or stem using chef’s knife.
2. Stack several leaves and cut according to recipe directions, whether halved, sliced crosswise, or otherwise cut into pieces.
3. Place leaves in large bowl and cover with water. Swish with your hand to remove grit. Repeat with fresh water, as needed, until grit no longer appears in bottom of bowl. Dry cut leaves using salad spinner.
QUICK COLLARD GREENS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Our quick blanch-and-sauté recipe for tough collard greens will give you the same tender results as long braising. Stemming the greens was a necessary first step, and blanching the leaves in salt water tenderized them quickly and neutralized their bitter qualities. To remove excess water left from blanching, we used a spatula to press on the drained greens, and then rolled them up in a dish towel to dry them further. We chopped the compressed collards into thin slices perfect for quickly sautéing with pungent, aromatic garlic and spicy red pepper flakes, which provided immediate potent seasoning. You can substitute mustard or turnip greens for the collards; reduce their boiling time to 2 minutes.
Salt and pepper
2½ pounds collard greens, stemmed and halved lengthwise
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Stir in 1 tablespoon salt, then add collard greens, 1 handful at a time. Cook until tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water until greens are cool, about 1 minute. Press greens with rubber spatula to release excess liquid. Place greens on dish towel and compress into 10-inch log. Roll up towel tightly, then remove greens from towel. Cut greens crosswise into ¼-inch slices.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Scatter greens in skillet and cook, stirring frequently, until just beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until greens are spotty brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
COLLARD GREENS WITH RAISINS AND ALMONDS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a fresh take on collard greens and a different spin on the preceding Quick Collard Greens, we decided to steam and then sauté them. Cutting the greens into 2-inch pieces helped them soften quickly but left greater texture than thinner slices, while draining and pressing the excess water from the steamed collards kept them from getting waterlogged. A generous dose of extra-virgin olive oil for sautéing the collards, along with sweet raisins, delicate shallots, toasted almonds, and umami-rich grated Parmesan, elevated these humble collards into an elegant side. You can substitute kale for the collards. Leave the collards slightly wet after washing; the moisture helps them to steam properly in step 1.
2 pounds collard greens, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup golden raisins
2 shallots, sliced thin
4 garlic cloves, sliced thin
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted
Lemon wedges for serving
1. Add collard greens, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper to Dutch oven. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until tender, 14 to 17 minutes, stirring occasionally. (If pot becomes dry, add ¼ cup water so collards continue to steam.) Drain greens in colander, pressing with rubber spatula to release excess liquid. Wipe pot clean with paper towels.
2. Heat ¼ cup oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add raisins, shallots, garlic, and pepper flakes and cook until just beginning to brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Add greens, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Transfer greens to serving platter. Drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with almonds. Serve with lemon wedges and extra Parmesan.
SOUTHERN BRAISED COLLARD GREENS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Long braising with smoky cured pork is the Southern method for preparing collards. And it’s definitely true that slowly cooking these greens in a sweet, smoky broth goes a long way toward tempering their assertive bitterness and adding rich, savory flavors. Cooking the greens in a Dutch oven in the oven rather than on the stovetop made it easy to maintain a constant temperature, resulting in tender but not mushy collards, and it also made this dish relatively hands-off. The leftover cooking liquid, traditionally called pot “liquor” (or “likker”), can be sopped up with cornbread or biscuits, or used to cook a second batch of collard greens, as is traditionally done in the South. Serve with hot sauce or vinegar, if desired.
4 slices bacon, chopped
1 onion, chopped fine
Salt and pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
6 cups chicken broth
2 pounds collard greens, stemmed and
cut into 2-inch pieces
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Cook bacon in Dutch oven over medium heat until fat begins to render, about 2 minutes. Stir in onion and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth and bring to simmer.
2. Stir in collard greens, 1 handful at a time, and cook until beginning to wilt, about 5 minutes. Cover, transfer pot to oven, and cook until greens are tender and broth is flavorful, about 45 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking. Remove pot from oven and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
BLACK-EYED PEAS AND COLLARD GREENS
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Southern tradition holds that if, on New Year’s Day, you eat a plate of collards and black-eyed peas all stewed up with tomatoes, spices, and a hambone, you will experience greater wealth and prosperity in the coming year. To get a jump on acquiring said prosperity, we decided to speed up this one-pot dish a little bit. We swapped the more time-consuming dried legumes for a couple of convenient cans of black-eyed peas, and gave the collards a 15-minute head start on the stove before adding the peas. We also relied on smoky bacon and savory chicken broth to quickly build a meaty backbone of flavor. For maximum good luck, be careful not to crush those black-eyed peas—stir them gently.
6 slices bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 onion, halved and sliced thin
1¼ teaspoons salt
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1½ cups chicken broth
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 pound collard greens, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 (15-ounce) cans black-eyed peas, rinsed
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1. Cook bacon in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; set aside.
2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pot. Add onion and salt and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, cumin, pepper, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
3. Stir in broth and tomatoes and their juice and bring to boil. Add collard greens, cover, and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until greens are tender, about 15 minutes.
4. Add black-eyed peas and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until greens are silky and completely tender, about 15 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to medium-high, and cook until liquid is reduced by one-quarter, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar, sugar, and reserved bacon. Serve.
GARLICKY BRAISED KALE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This straight-forward one-pot approach turns kale tender without taking hours or leaving it awash in excess liquid, but this technique will work equally well with any of the sturdy winter greens, such as collards or mustard greens. Adding the greens one handful at a time to the seasoned cooking liquid and letting them wilt briefly before adding more allowed us to fit the large volume of leaves into the pot more easily. When the kale had almost the finished tender texture we wanted, we removed the lid to allow the liquid to cook off. Garlic, lemon, and red pepper is a classic flavor combo, but this cooking method lends itself nicely to different flavors, as in the two variations that follow.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped fine
5 garlic cloves, minced
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup water
Salt and pepper
2 pounds kale, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 teaspoons lemon juice, plus extra for seasoning
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth, water, and ¼ teaspoon salt and bring to simmer.
2. Stir in kale, 1 handful at a time, and cook until beginning to wilt, about 5 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until kale is tender, 25 to 35 minutes.
3. Uncover and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid has evaporated (bottom of pot will be almost dry and kale will begin to sizzle), 8 to 12 minutes. Off heat, stir in lemon juice and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lemon juice to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Garlicky Braised Kale with Bacon and Onion
Cook 6 slices bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces, over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate, then pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat. Substitute rendered fat for 2 tablespoons oil; 1 red onion, halved and sliced thin, for chopped onion; and cider vinegar for lemon juice. Stir reserved bacon into kale before serving.
Garlicky Braised Kale with Coconut and Curry
Substitute 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger and 1 teaspoon curry powder for red pepper flakes and 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk for water. Substitute lime juice for lemon juice and sprinkle kale with ⅓ cup toasted chopped cashews before serving.
SLOW-COOKER BRAISED KALE WITH GARLIC AND CHORIZO
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A long cooking time helps to turn kale and other hearty greens meltingly tender, gentling their strong flavors, so taking advantage of the slow cooker seemed like a no-brainer. Spanish-style chorizo (the cured, smoked type of chorizo) and garlic brought a meaty, spicy kick to these simple greens and ensured things didn’t get too toned down, though. This would be delicious served as a bed for over-easy eggs, and it could also be served over rice for a light main course. You will need a 5- to 7-quart slow cooker for this recipe.
8 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, halved lengthwise and sliced ½ inch thick
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1½ cups chicken broth
Salt and pepper
2 pounds kale, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave chorizo, oil, and garlic in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in broth and ¼ teaspoon salt.
2. Microwave half of kale in covered bowl until slightly wilted, about 5 minutes, and transfer to slow cooker. Stir in remaining kale, cover, and cook until kale is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
KALE CHIPS
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Kale chips were originally conceived as a nutritious alternative to potato chips. But the store-bought versions that came on the scene to take advantage of the kale chip craze are often deep-fried and loaded with salt. We wanted a light-as-air, earthy kale chip that would remain crispy from cooking right through consumption. We discovered three keys to getting them to the perfect texture. First, we started with completely dry leaves, blotted between dish towels to make sure no water was left clinging. Next, we baked the kale on wire racks to allow the oven air to circulate above and beneath the leaves. Finally, we lengthened the cooking time and lowered the oven temperature to mimic the drying effects of a food dehydrator. Tossed with olive oil and seasoned lightly with crunchy kosher salt, these ultracrisp kale chips were a super-satisfying snack. We prefer to use Lacinato kale in this recipe, but curly leaf kale can be substituted; chips made with curly leaf kale will taste a bit chewy at the edges and won’t keep as well. We prefer the larger crystal size of kosher salt here; if using table salt, reduce the amount by half.
12 ounces Lacinato kale, stemmed and torn into 3-inch pieces
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire racks in 2 rimmed baking sheets. Dry kale thoroughly between dish towels, transfer to large bowl, and toss with oil and salt.
2. Arrange kale on prepared racks, making sure leaves overlap as little as possible. Bake kale until very crisp, 45 minutes to 1 hour, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let kale chips cool completely before serving. (Kale chips can be stored in paper towel–lined airtight container for up to 1 day.)
VARIATIONS
Ranch-Style Kale Chips
Combine 2 teaspoons dried dill, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, and 1 teaspoon onion powder with salt before sprinkling over kale.
Spicy Sesame-Ginger Kale Chips
Substitute 1 tablespoon sesame oil for olive oil. Combine 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper with salt before sprinkling over kale.
KALE SALAD WITH SWEET POTATOES AND POMEGRANATE VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love the earthy vegetal flavor of raw kale, but its chewy texture can be a little tough to take. Many recipes call for tossing it with dressing and letting it marinate in the fridge overnight to tenderize. But this method didn’t deliver the tender leaves we were after. Luckily, we found another technique that worked better: massage. Squeezing and massaging the kale leaves broke down their cell walls in much the same way that heat would, darkening the leaves and turning them silky. Roasted sweet potatoes, shredded radicchio, crunchy pecans, a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, and a sweet pomegranate vinaigrette turned our salad into a meal with a medley of flavors and textures. Pomegranate molasses can be found in the international aisle of large supermarkets; if you can’t find it, substitute 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of mild molasses, and 1 teaspoon of honey. We prefer to use Lacinato kale in this recipe, but curly-leaf kale can be substituted; if using curly-leaf kale, increase the massaging time to 5 minutes. Do not use baby kale.
SALAD
1½ pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
12 ounces Lacinato kale, stemmed and sliced crosswise into ½-inch-wide strips
½ head radicchio (5 ounces), cored and sliced thin
½ cup pecans, toasted and chopped
Shaved Parmesan cheese
VINAIGRETTE
2 tablespoons water
1½ tablespoons pomegranate molasses
1 small shallot, minced
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. For the salad Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Toss sweet potatoes with oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay potatoes in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and roast until bottom edges are browned on both sides, 25 to 30 minutes, flipping potatoes halfway through roasting time. Transfer potatoes to plate and let cool for 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, vigorously squeeze and massage kale with your clean hands until leaves are uniformly darkened and slightly wilted, about 1 minute.
3. For the vinaigrette Whisk water, pomegranate molasses, shallot, honey, vinegar, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Whisking constantly, drizzle in oil.
4. Add roasted potatoes, kale, and radicchio to vinaigrette and toss gently to coat. Sprinkle with pecans and shaved Parmesan to taste. Serve.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
KALE SALAD WITH SWEET POTATOES AND POMEGRANATE VINAIGRETTE
Kale is quickly becoming the number-one salad green of choice—if it isn’t already there. But raw kale, even when mixed into a salad with other ingredients, can take a lot of jaw power to chew through. Letting it marinate overnight in dressing is neither convenient nor effective. We discovered that a vigorous massage softens the strips of kale leaves nicely; it has a similar effect on breaking down the cell walls as the heat of cooking does, rendering the sturdy, chewy leaves softer and silkier in no time.
1. Roast the sweet potato pieces on a rimmed baking sheet until the bottom edges are browned on both sides. While they cool for 20 minutes, prep the kale.
2. Slice the stemmed kale leaves into ½-inch-wide strips.
3. Using your (clean) hands, vigorously squeeze and massage the kale strips until the leaves are uniformly darker in color and slightly wilted, about 1 minute. They should end up looking almost like they were cooked.
4. Whisk together the ingredients for the sweet-tart pomegranate vinaigrette in the bottom of a large bowl.
5. Add the roasted potatoes, massaged kale, and sliced radicchio to the bowl with the vinaigrette and toss gently to combine everything.
6. Sprinkle the salad with the chopped pecans and shaved Parmesan, and serve.
EASY CHICKPEA AND KALE SOUP
Serves 4
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Many cuisines have an iteration of kale soup, from the famous Portuguese kale and linguica soup to Italian versions made with white beans and sausage. We took our inspiration from those, with Mediterranean flavors, but left out the sausage component. Sautéing onion and fennel built a strong foundation of flavor, which we enhanced with garlic and red pepper flakes. Once the soup base was ready, we added convenient canned chickpeas along with chopped kale. After just 15 minutes of simmering, the kale was tender and the rich flavors had all melded together into a satisfyingly hearty and warming soup.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 fennel bulb, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and chopped
Salt and pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 cups chicken broth
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed
6 ounces kale, stemmed and chopped
Grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion, fennel, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook until vegetables have softened and are starting to brown, about 8 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
2. Stir in broth, chickpeas, and kale and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until kale is tender, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Pecorino separately.
CALDO VERDE
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Everything about caldo verde, the classic Portuguese soup of smoky sausage, potatoes, and sturdy greens, is hearty and satisfying. Its intentionally thin broth is usually made with just water, but for our version we wanted something with a little more body. We used chicken broth for deeper flavor, and also realized that we could nicely thicken the broth by pureeing some of the softened potatoes with a few tablespoons of olive oil. Using plenty of potatoes and garlicky chorizo turned this simple soup into a filling meal; we chose Yukon Golds because they held their shape better than russets. We prefer collard greens here for their delicate sweetness and meatier bite, but kale can be substituted. Serve this soup with hearty bread and a final drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
12 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 onion, chopped fine
4 garlic cloves, minced
Salt and pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch pieces
4 cups chicken broth
4 cups water
1 pound collard greens, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to bowl; set aside.
2. Add onion, garlic, 1¼ teaspoons salt, and pepper flakes to fat left in pot and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in potatoes, broth, and water, bring to simmer, and cook until potatoes are just tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Transfer ¾ cup solids and ¾ cup broth to blender. Stir collard greens into pot, return to simmer, and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in chorizo and cook until greens are tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil to soup in blender and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir pureed soup mixture and vinegar into soup. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
UDON NOODLES WITH MUSTARD GREENS AND SHIITAKE-GINGER SAUCE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The spicy flavor of mustard greens lends itself to Asian flavor combinations, and since noodles and greens are a common pairing in Asia, we decided to create a recipe that married the pungent bite of mustard greens with earthy, chewy udon noodles. We made a quick but highly aromatic and boldly flavorful broth using both fresh and dried shiitake mushrooms, along with mirin, rice vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, fresh ginger, and chili-garlic sauce. Letting this mixture reduce resulted in a brothy sauce perfect for pairing with the cooked noodles and greens. Because fresh noodles cook so quickly, we made sure to add the greens to the pot before the noodles. Do not substitute other types of noodles for the udon noodles here.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin
¼ cup mirin
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled, halved, and smashed
½ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms, rinsed and minced
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon Asian chili-garlic sauce
1 pound mustard greens, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
1 pound fresh udon noodles
1. Heat vegetable oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 cups water, mirin, vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, dried mushrooms, sesame oil, and chili-garlic sauce. Bring to simmer and cook until liquid has reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, discard garlic and ginger. Cover pot to keep warm; set aside.
2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add mustard greens and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until almost tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add noodles and cook until greens and noodles are both tender, about 2 minutes. Reserve ⅓ cup cooking water, drain noodles and greens, and return them to pot. Add sauce and reserved cooking water, and toss to combine. Cook over medium-low heat, tossing constantly, until sauce clings to noodles, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SALMON TACOS WITH COLLARD SLAW
Serves 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It seems like seafood tacos these days can include practically any kind of fish, prepared in any number of ways, whereas the slaw and creamy sauce are still typically made using cabbage and sour cream. We wanted a slaw with more texture and flavor oomph to stand up to our rich spice-rubbed salmon—and collard greens were just the ticket. Thinly sliced, they required no cooking. Combined with crunchy radishes, cooling jícama, red onion, cilantro, and lime, they perfectly complemented the fish. For a bright crema, we pureed avocado with lime juice, yogurt, and cilantro. It all added up to a flavor-supercharged take on fish tacos. To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cooked at the same rate and didn’t fall apart, we found it best to buy a whole skin-on center-cut fillet and cut it into four pieces ourselves.
½ avocado, pitted and chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon plain low-fat yogurt
Salt and pepper
TACOS
¼ teaspoon grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons juice
Salt and pepper
4 ounces collard greens, stemmed and sliced very thin (2 cups)
4 ounces jícama, peeled and cut into 2-inch-long matchsticks
4 radishes, trimmed and cut into 1-inch-long matchsticks
½ small red onion, halved and sliced thin
¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves
1½ teaspoons chili powder
1 (2-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 inch thick
1 tablespoon canola oil
12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed
Hot sauce
1. For the avocado crema Process all ingredients in food processor until completely smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer crema to bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. For the tacos Whisk lime zest and juice and ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add collard greens, jícama, radishes, onion, and cilantro and toss to combine; set aside.
3. Combine chili powder, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets. Pat salmon dry with paper towels and sprinkle evenly with spice mixture. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Cook salmon skin side up until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until salmon is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer salmon to plate and let cool slightly, about 2 minutes. Using 2 forks, flake fish into 2-inch pieces; discard skin.
4. Divide fish, collard slaw, and avocado crema evenly among tortillas, and drizzle with hot sauce to taste. Serve.
SAUSAGE AND WHITE BEANS WITH MUSTARD GREENS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Hearty, sturdy greens are great to use in stewy dishes, since they become tender while holding their texture. Our inspiration for this stick-to-your-ribs Dutch oven dish came from the south of France, where rich stews that combine meaty sausage, creamy white beans, and hearty greens are signature country-style offerings. Since the authentic garlic sausage used there was difficult to find, we subbed flavorful Italian sausage instead—use hot or sweet, depending on your preference. The clean, peppery spice of mustard greens was a great counterpoint to the unctuous sausage and the creaminess of the white beans. Using canned cannellini beans was untraditional, but it brought greater ease of preparation without sacrificing any flavor. To finish, a sprinkle of cheesy bread crumbs and parsley added crunch and freshness. You can substitute kale for the mustard greens.
2 slices hearty white sandwich bread
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
STEW
1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausages
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped fine
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme or 2 teaspoons dried
6 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup dry white wine
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained with juice reserved
1½ cups chicken broth
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed
12 ounces mustard greens, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. For the Parmesan bread crumbs Pulse bread in food processor until finely ground, 10 to 15 pulses. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add bread crumbs and cook, stirring constantly, until crumbs begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add Parmesan and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until crumbs are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer crumbs to bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside.
2. For the stew Prick sausages with fork in several places. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown sausages well on all sides, about 8 minutes, then transfer to plate.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in thyme and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and reserved tomato juice, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in broth, beans, and tomatoes and bring to simmer.
4. Stir in mustard greens and cook until slightly wilted, about 1 minute. Place sausages on top of greens. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until greens are wilted and reduced in volume by about half, about 10 minutes.
5. Uncover, increase heat to medium-low, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until sausages are cooked through and greens are tender, about 15 minutes. Off heat, using back of spoon, mash portion of beans against side of pot to thicken sauce. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with bread crumbs and parsley.
SMOKED TROUT HASH WITH EGGS
Serves 4
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Deliciously oily smoked fish is often paired with mustard or horseradish, pleasantly sharp flavors that cut through and counterbalance the richness of the seafood. So based on that line of reasoning, we thought that mustard greens, with their clean, spicy bite and leafy chew, would pair well with smoked trout—and we were right. This creative hash is just as much at home on a dinner table as it is on a lazy Sunday morning. To give the hash the requisite saucy element, we cooked four eggs nestled right in the top once it finished browning—because what’s a hash without eggs on top? Dill and a squeeze of lemon added brightness to the finished hash. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1½ pounds mustard greens, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 onion, chopped fine
1 garlic clove, minced
6 ounces smoked trout, flaked
4 large eggs
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
Lemon wedges
1. Microwave potatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in covered bowl until potatoes are translucent around edges, 5 to 8 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving.
2. Microwave mustard greens in second covered bowl until wilted, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Transfer to colander, drain well, then add to bowl with potatoes; set aside.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in potatoes and mustard greens, breaking up any clumps. Using back of spatula, firmly pack potato mixture into skillet and cook undisturbed for 2 minutes. Flip hash, 1 portion at a time, and repack into skillet. Repeat flipping process every few minutes until potatoes are well browned and greens are tender, 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Off heat, sprinkle trout evenly over hash. Make 4 shallow indentations (about 2 inches wide) in surface of hash using back of spoon. Crack 1 egg into each indentation and season eggs with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until egg whites are just set and yolks are still runny, 4 to 6 minutes. Sprinkle with dill and serve immediately with lemon wedges.
WHOLE-WHEAT PIZZA WITH KALE AND SUNFLOWER SEED PESTO
Makes two 12-inch pizzas
Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes (plus 18 hours for proofing the dough)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Loaded with healthy kale, this is a nutritional powerhouse of a pizza that’s also delicious. “Healthy” pizzas often seem to taste like cardboard, but this one is guaranteed to satisfy all your pizza cravings. We used whole-wheat flour along with a smaller amount of bread flour for the crust, which required making an extra-wet dough for optimal chew. Our Kale and Sunflower Seed Pesto topped the dough, and cherry tomatoes on top provided bursts of sweetness and acidity to balance the earthy pesto underneath. We topped the pizza with even more kale, which crisped up nicely in the oven. A few shavings of Parmesan completed the picture. The pizza dough needs to proof for at least 18 hours or up to 2 days before baking, and the superhot oven is key to getting a crisp, chewy, not-at-all-cardboardy crust. If you do not have a baking stone, you can use a preheated rimless (or inverted rimmed) baking sheet, though the crust will be less crisp. Shape the second dough ball while the first pizza bakes, but don’t top the pizza until right before you bake it. We prefer to use our whole-wheat pizza dough, but you can substitute 2 pounds store-bought whole-wheat pizza dough.
DOUGH
1½ cups (8¼ ounces) whole-wheat flour
1 cup (5½ ounces) bread flour
2 teaspoons honey
¾ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
1¼ cups ice water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1¾ teaspoons salt
KALE AND SUNFLOWER SEED PESTO
2½ ounces kale, stemmed and chopped (1½ cups)
1 cup fresh basil leaves
1 cup baby spinach
⅓ cup roasted sunflower seeds
3 tablespoons water
3 garlic cloves, minced
Salt and pepper
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 ounce grated Parmesan cheese (½ cup)
TOPPINGS
5½ ounces kale, stemmed and cut into 1½-inch pieces (3½ cups)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
Salt and pepper
6 ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved
1. For the dough Process whole-wheat flour, bread flour, honey, and yeast in food processor until combined, about 2 seconds. With processor running, add ice water and process until dough is just combined and no dry flour remains, about 10 seconds. Let dough sit for 10 minutes.
2. Add oil and salt to dough and process until it forms satiny, sticky ball that clears sides of bowl, 45 to 60 seconds. Remove from bowl and knead on oiled counter until smooth, about 1 minute. Divide dough in half, shape each half into a tight ball, and place each in lightly oiled bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 18 hours or up to 2 days.
3. One hour before baking pizza, adjust oven rack to middle position, set pizza stone on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Remove dough from refrigerator and let sit until dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, at least 1 hour.
4. For the pesto Process kale, basil, spinach, sunflower seeds, water, garlic, and ¼ teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping down bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly add oil until incorporated. Transfer mixture to bowl, stir in Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside 1 cup for recipe; reserve ½ cup for another use.
5. For the toppings Combine kale, oil, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl and massage lightly to coat leaves evenly. Heat broiler for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, coat 1 ball of dough generously with flour and place on well-floured counter. Using your fingertips, gently flatten into 8-inch disk, leaving 1 inch of outer edge slightly thicker than center. Lift edge of dough and, using back of your hands and knuckles, gently stretch disk into 12-inch round, working along edges and giving disk quarter turns as you stretch. Transfer dough to well-floured pizza peel and stretch into 13-inch round.
6. Spread ½ cup pesto over surface of dough, leaving ½-inch border around edge. Scatter half of tomatoes and half of kale mixture over pizza. Slide pizza carefully onto stone, return oven to 500 degrees, and bake until crust is well browned and edges of kale leaves are crisp and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pizza, place on wire rack, and let pizza rest for 5 minutes. Drizzle with additional oil to taste and sprinkle with half of Parmesan. Slice pizza into 8 slices and serve.
7. Heat broiler for 10 minutes. Repeat process of stretching, topping, and baking with remaining dough and toppings, returning oven to 500 degrees when pizza is placed on stone.