Plump and sweet, fresh ENGLISH PEAS—the green garden peas we’re all familiar with—are a quintessential vegetable of late spring and early summer. Freshly picked peas are as sweet as candy, so snap them up when you can. However, fresh peas turn starchy and lose their nutrients quickly, so we think that peas are one of those rare vegetables where frozen is as good as—or often better than—fresh. Highlight them in Quick Buttered Peas, a versatile side dish everyone should master. Or create an easy, pretty finger food with our Ricotta Crostini with Peas and Mint.

Supermarkets seldom carry whole English peapods, both because they’re a bit of work to shell and because the pods are too tough to eat. But there are two edible peapods you will readily find: snow peas and sugar snap peas.

SNOW PEAS are recognizable for their flat, almost translucent pods in which no peas (or tiny peas) have developed. They cook in a flash, so they’re ideal for quickly sautéing with bold flavors for simple side dishes, as in our Sautéed Snow Peas with Lemon and Parsley.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS are a hybrid of English peas and snow peas, and they combine the best of both worlds—crunchy, juicy pods with plump, sweet peas inside. Stir-fry them with beef and orange for a Sichuan-style meal, or nestle them into a bed of black rice in a room-temperature grain salad.

Flavorful PEA GREENS in their various growth stages are increasingly seen in specialty markets and farmers’ markets. Our altogether delicious Pea Green Salad with Warm Apricot-Pistachio Vinaigrette celebrates the best of spring with delicate greens, peas, and a fruity, nutty dressing.

shopping and storage

PEAS Look for fresh peas at farmers’ markets in the springtime and early summer, and don’t hesitate to ask the vendor when they were picked and if you can taste before you buy. Once you get them home, use them as soon as possible. Fresh peas in the supermarket are often at least several days old, so the peas are likely to be some degree of starchy or even mealy. That’s when we typically head to the frozen-foods aisle.

SNOW PEAS AND SUGAR SNAP PEAS Both are available year-round, although spring through summer is the best season. Pods should be a vibrant emerald green. To check freshness for snow peas, bend a snow peapod until it breaks—fresh snow peas will snap cleanly in half. Sugar snap peas should be firm and plump. Both snow and sugar snap peas will keep in an open plastic produce bag in the refrigerator for several days.

PEA GREENS If you find pea greens in any form in the spring or summer, they should look fresh and vibrant, with no signs of wilting, browning, or yellowing. They are extremely perishable, so wrap them loosely in paper towels and store them in the refrigerator for only a day or two.

all about pea greens

Although the term “pea greens” is used generically to indicate any growth from the pea plant, there are actually three distinct stages and forms that you might be able to find.

PEA SHOOTS Pea shoots are the first growth of the plant and are extremely delicate; they are sometimes shelved and labeled as “pea sprouts” in markets. They are sweet and mild and are great used raw as a topping for salads and sandwiches.

PEA TENDRILS Pea tendrils are the next stage of growth. Tender leaves have developed, and long, thin coils (the tendrils) spring out in every direction, all the better to capture sunlight for growth. Pea tendrils are more intense in flavor than pea shoots and are great in stir-fries.

PEA GREENS Pea greens are the third stage of growth. The rounded, bright green leaves are grassy and faintly bitter, tasting of fresh peas but without the sweetness. They are excellent salad greens, and they also can be used instead of basil or other herbs to make a pesto.

vegetable prep

Trimming Snow and Sugar Snap Peas

The tough strings should be removed from these peapods before using them in a recipe.

1. Use paring knife to slice off stem end of peapod.

2. Use your thumb to pull stem end along flat side of pod to remove string.

frozen is a-ok

We’ve always been big fans of frozen peas. Shucked from the pod, quick-blanched, and individually frozen within hours of being harvested, they are often sweeter and fresher-tasting than the shuck-’em-yourself “fresh” peas that may have spent many days in storage. We’ve seen two varieties in the freezer aisle: regular frozen peas and bags labeled “petite peas” (or sometimes “petit pois” or “baby sweet peas”). To see if there is a difference, we tasted each type with butter. Tasters unanimously favored the smaller peas for their sweeter flavor and creamier texture. Regular peas were by no means unacceptable, but they did have tougher skins and mealier interiors than the smaller ones. Since both varieties are available for the same price, we favor the smaller ones.

QUICK BUTTERED PEAS

Serves 4

Total time: 15 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When it comes to making a quick, delicious, crowd-pleasing side dish to go with all manner of meals, buttered peas are hard to beat. Because frozen peas have already been blanched, the keys to cooking with them are to avoid overcooking the peas and to pair the peas with other ingredients that don’t require much preparation. We found that after sautéing shallot, thyme, and garlic in butter, we could simply add the peas and let them cook through for a few minutes for a fresh and bright-tasting side dish. Using a skillet instead of a saucepan allowed the peas to heat more quickly and evenly over the larger surface, and covering the skillet sped up the cooking time. Adding a bit of sugar to the skillet helped to highlight the peas’ sweet, refreshing flavor. Do not thaw the peas before adding them to the skillet. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 shallot, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 garlic clove, minced

1 pound frozen peas

2 teaspoons sugar

Salt and pepper

Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallot, thyme, and garlic and cook until softened and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add peas and sugar, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until peas are heated through, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

SMASHED MINTY PEAS

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 20 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most cooks boil peas until tender in salted water. However, this method doesn’t really add anything in the way of flavor to the peas. When developing this recipe, we wanted to find a method for cooking and flavoring the peas at the same time, and we found that simply simmering the peas right in a sauce allowed them to quickly absorb the sauce’s flavor. To intensify the sweetness of the peas, we added a small amount of sugar. Pulsing the cooked peas, lettuce, and mint in a food processor until coarsely mashed produced a delicious dish with a pleasing texture. Do not thaw the peas before adding them to the saucepan. Be careful not to overprocess the peas; they can quickly go from smashed to pureed.

1 pound frozen peas

2 cups chopped Boston or Bibb lettuce

½ cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper

1. Bring peas, lettuce, broth, mint, butter, and sugar to simmer in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until peas are tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

2. Transfer mixture to food processor and pulse until coarsely mashed, about 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

SAUTÉED SNOW PEAS WITH LEMON AND PARSLEY

Serves 4

Total time: 20 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sweet, grassy snow peas are the star component in this superspeedy side. We knew we wanted to caramelize them a bit to highlight and amplify their delicate flavor. First we tried a traditional stir-fry technique, but the constant stirring left us with greasy, overcooked pods without any browning. Adding a sprinkle of sugar and cooking the peas without stirring for a short time helped to achieve the flavorful sear we were after, and then we continued to cook them, stirring constantly, until they were just crisp-tender. To boost flavor, we cleared the center of the pan and quickly sautéed a mixture of minced shallot, oil, and lemon zest before stirring everything together. A squeeze of lemon juice and a sprinkling of parsley just before serving kept this dish fresh and bright. Chives, tarragon, cilantro, or basil can be substituted for the parsley.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 small shallot, minced

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest plus 1 teaspoon juice

Salt and pepper

teaspoon sugar

12 ounces snow peas, strings removed

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1. Combine 1 teaspoon oil, shallot, and lemon zest in bowl. In separate bowl, combine ¼ teaspoon salt, ⅛ teaspoon pepper, and sugar.

2. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add snow peas, sprinkle with salt mixture, and cook, without stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir briefly, then cook, without stirring, for 30 seconds. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until peas are crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Push peas to sides of skillet. Add shallot mixture to center and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir shallot mixture into peas. Stir in lemon juice and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

VARIATIONS

Sautéed Snow Peas with Garlic, Cumin, and Cilantro

Add 2 minced garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon toasted and cracked cumin seeds to shallot mixture in step 1. Substitute ½ teaspoon lime zest for lemon zest, lime juice for lemon juice, and cilantro for parsley.

Sautéed Snow Peas with Shallot, Lemon Grass, and Basil

Substitute 2 teaspoons minced fresh lemon grass for lemon zest, lime juice for lemon juice, and basil for parsley.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH PINE NUTS, FENNEL, AND LEMON ZEST

Serves 4

Total time: 20 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A quick sauté is an excellent way to cook these sweet, crisp pods with their small, juicy peas inside. To ensure that the pods and the peas inside cooked through at the same rate, we used a hybrid method to steam the sugar snap peas briefly before sautéing them; the trapped steam transferred heat more efficiently than air, so the peas cooked through more quickly. Cutting the sugar snap peas in half further reduced the cooking time, so the pods retained more of their snap, and as a bonus, the pockets captured the seasonings rather than letting them slide to the bottom of the platter. Sprinkling the snap peas with dukkah—an Egyptian condiment made from finely chopped nuts, seeds, and seasonings—dressed up this simple preparation with distinct (but not overwhelming) flavor and crunch. Do not substitute ground fennel for the fennel seeds in this recipe. You will need a 12-inch skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.

3 tablespoons pine nuts

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon kosher salt

teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

12 ounces sugar snap peas, strings removed, halved crosswise on bias

2 tablespoons water

1 garlic clove, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Toast pine nuts in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until just starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add fennel seeds and continue to toast, stirring constantly, until pine nuts are lightly browned and fennel is fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer pine nut mixture to cutting board. Sprinkle lemon zest, salt, and pepper flakes over pine nut mixture. Chop mixture until finely minced and well combined. Transfer to bowl and reserve for serving.

2. Heat oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add snap peas and water, immediately cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Uncover, add garlic, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until moisture has evaporated and snap peas are crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in basil and three-quarters of pine nut mixture. Transfer snap peas to serving platter and sprinkle with remaining pine nut mixture. Serve.

VARIATION

Sugar Snap Peas with Almonds, Coriander, and Orange Zest

Omit pepper flakes. Substitute sliced almonds for pine nuts, coriander seeds for fennel seeds, ¼ teaspoon orange zest for lemon zest, and cilantro for basil.

Ricotta Crostini with Peas and Mint

RICOTTA CROSTINI WITH PEAS AND MINT

Makes 24 crostini

Total time: 25 minutes (plus 30 minutes cooling time)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted these attractive, rustic crostini to be as easy to make as they were to enjoy, so we broke down the recipe into three simple steps. We started by slicing a baguette thin and baking the slices until they were crispy. We then made a silky-smooth ricotta topping in the food processor, using a combination of ricotta cheese, extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. We topped the ricotta with vibrant peas, a bit of minced shallot, and refreshing mint leaves. We prefer to use day-old bread for this recipe because it is easier to slice. The crostini are best topped shortly before serving. A 12-inch demi-baguette will easily yield the 24 slices needed for this recipe.

24 (¼-inch-thick) slices baguette

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup frozen peas, thawed

1 small shallot, minced

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

Salt and pepper

6 ounces (¾ cup) whole-milk ricotta cheese

¼ cup fresh mint leaves, torn

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Arrange baguette slices in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Brush tops of slices with 2 tablespoons oil. Bake until golden brown and crispy, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely on sheet, about 30 minutes.

2. Combine peas, shallot, vinegar, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and 2 tablespoons oil in bowl; set aside.

3. Process ricotta, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in food processor until smooth, about 10 seconds. With processor running, slowly add remaining 2 tablespoons oil until incorporated. Spread ricotta mixture evenly on toasted baguette slices. Spoon pea mixture over ricotta and sprinkle with mint. Serve.

PEA GREEN SALAD WITH WARM APRICOT-PISTACHIO VINAIGRETTE

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 40 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A delicate tangle of grassy pea greens forms the basis of this salad, complemented by fresh peas, endive, and a warm, fruity vinaigrette that both offsets the faintly bitter quality of the pea greens and lightly wilts them. To boost our salad with sweet springtime flavor, we steamed the fresh peas in a skillet until just tender before adding them. In the same skillet we used to cook our peas, we toasted pistachios to build our warmed vinaigrette. Then we added a microwaved mixture of shallots, apricots, mustard, and white wine vinegar to the hot oil. We made sure to add the apricot mixture to the oil off the heat, as the hot oil was likely to sizzle. The last step was simply tossing the warmed vinaigrette with the pea greens, cooked peas, and a bit of Belgian endive for welcome crunch. You can substitute frozen, thawed peas for the fresh peas; if using frozen peas, skip step 1.

1 pound fresh peas, shelled (1¼ cups)

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard

½ teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper

1 small shallot, halved and sliced thin

½ cup dried apricots, chopped

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

cup shelled pistachios, chopped

8 ounces (8 cups) pea greens

2 heads Belgian endive (8 ounces), trimmed, halved lengthwise, and sliced ¼ inch thick

1. Bring peas and ¼ cup water to simmer in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until peas are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain peas and set aside. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

2. Whisk vinegar, mustard, sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt together in medium bowl. Add shallot and apricots, cover, and microwave until steaming, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Stir to submerge shallot, then let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.

3. Heat oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add pistachios and cook, stirring frequently, until toasted and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in shallot mixture and let sit until heated through, about 30 seconds.

4. Gently toss pea greens, endive, and peas with warm vinaigrette in large bowl until evenly coated and wilted slightly. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

BLACK RICE SALAD WITH SUGAR SNAP PEAS AND GINGER-SESAME VINAIGRETTE

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 1 hour

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Asian flavors and ingredients combine beautifully in this colorful rice salad. The emerald green snap peas, red-and-white radishes, and red bell peppers are like jewels against the black rice. Also known as purple or forbidden rice, black rice is an ancient grain that was once reserved for the emperors of China. It has a deliciously roasted, nutty taste and can be used in anything from salads to dessert puddings. Its only drawback is that it is easy to overcook, so our major obstacle was finding the right method. We discovered that the best approach was to cook it like pasta, in lots of boiling water, giving it space to move around. Once it was done, we drained it, drizzled it with a little vinegar for a flavor boost, and let it cool completely on a baking sheet. This ensured perfectly cooked grains that had the expected chew of black rice without any mushiness. We mixed up an Asian vinaigrette with sesame oil, ginger, chili-garlic sauce, and honey, and stirred in some cilantro, and our simple salad was complete.

cups black rice

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon rice vinegar

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons minced shallot

2 teaspoons honey

2 teaspoons Asian chili-garlic sauce

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

6 ounces sugar snap peas, strings removed, halved

5 radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced thin

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add rice and 1 teaspoon salt and cook until rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain rice, spread onto rimmed baking sheet, and drizzle with 1 teaspoon vinegar. Let rice cool completely, about 15 minutes.

2. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons vinegar, olive oil, sesame oil, shallot, honey, chili-garlic sauce, ginger, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in large bowl until combined. Add rice, snap peas, radishes, bell pepper, and cilantro and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

CREAMY PEA SOUP

Serves 8

Total time: 30 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This streamlined recipe couldn’t be simpler, and it results in a velvety, creamy, yet vibrant-tasting pea soup that’s as appropriate to serve for a springtime holiday meal as it is to serve in the dead of winter. Although pea soups often have ham, we left out that meaty element so that the sweet green pea flavor could really shine through. Slowly whisking the chicken broth into the flour and onion mixture avoided floury lumps, the half-and-half added richness without heaviness, and the mint garnish gave our Creamy Pea Soup a fresh herbal finish. You can use tarragon in place of the mint if you like.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 onion, chopped fine

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups chicken broth, plus extra as needed

pounds frozen peas, thawed

½ cup half-and-half

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Bring to simmer and cook until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in peas and cook until tender, 7 to 10 minutes.

2. Working in batches, process soup in blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Return soup to clean pot and stir in half-and-half. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Bring soup to brief simmer over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle individual portions with mint before serving.

VEGETABLES REIMAGINED

PEA GREEN SALAD WITH WARM APRICOT-PISTACHIO VINAIGRETTE

This warm, slightly wilted salad celebrates both the essence of springtime and the essence of green pea goodness with seasonal pea greens and fresh shelled garden peas. It is visually stunning, with several shades of green from the pea greens, peas, endive, and pistachios offset by the color of the chopped apricots, making it an impressive choice for entertaining.

1. Shell the peas, slice the shallots, chop the apricots and pistachios, and slice the endive.

2. Cook the fresh peas in a skillet in ¼ cup of simmering water until they are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain the peas and set them aside.

3. Whisk the vinegar, mustard, sugar, and salt together in a bowl. Add the shallots and apricots, cover, and microwave until they are steaming, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

4. Heat the oil in the skillet and cook the pistachios until they are toasty and smell delicious, 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the warm shallot mixture.

6. Toss the pea greens, endive, and fresh peas with the warm vinaigrette until the vegetables are coated and just slightly wilted.

RISI E BISI

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 45 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Somewhere in between a risotto and a soup in consistency, this rice-and-peas dish is traditional to the Veneto region of Italy, where peas are celebrated as a springtime crop and rice is an important grain year-round. For our version, we decided to streamline preparation by cooking the dish more like a soup than a risotto. After the dish cooked hands-off for most of the time, a vigorous whisking of the rice at the end of cooking liberated enough of its starch to thicken the broth, providing the dish with a satisfying consistency. By using thawed frozen baby peas and adding them just at the end of cooking to warm through, we mimicked the sweetness and texture of the fresh spring peas that are the hallmark of this dish. Balancing the peas’ sweetness with judicious amounts of Parmesan and pancetta created savory complexity without heaviness. We use frozen petite peas here, but regular frozen peas can be substituted, if desired. For the proper consistency, make sure to cook the rice at a gentle boil.

4 cups chicken broth

cups water

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 ounces pancetta, chopped fine

1 onion, chopped fine

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup Arborio rice

2 cups frozen petite peas, thawed

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup), plus extra for serving

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1 teaspoon lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving

Salt and pepper

1. Bring broth and water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

2. Cook oil and pancetta in Dutch oven over medium-low heat until pancetta is browned and fat is rendered, 5 to 7 minutes. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add rice and stir to coat, about 1 minute.

3. Add 5 cups broth mixture, increase heat to high, and bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until rice is tender but not mushy, about 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes to ensure that rice is gently boiling.

4. Remove pot from heat and whisk rice vigorously until broth has thickened slightly, 15 seconds. Stir in peas, Parmesan, parsley, and lemon juice. Adjust consistency with remaining ½ cup broth mixture as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing extra Parmesan and lemon wedges separately.

Tagliatelle with Prosciutto and Peas

TAGLIATELLE WITH PROSCIUTTO AND PEAS

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 30 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Simplicity and high-quality ingredients are at the heart of all Italian cooking, so for our version of the classic dish of tagliatelle with peas, we chose our ingredients through careful testing. Opting for a dried Italian-made egg pasta over traditional dried pasta got us very close to the texture of labor-intensive fresh pasta. Frozen peas, which are picked and frozen at peak ripeness, offered the most consistently sweet results. To make the most of the full flavor of pricey imported prosciutto di Parma, we used it in two ways: minced and cooked with the cream, and also sliced into strips and tossed with the pasta right before serving. If using sliced-to-order prosciutto, ask for it to be sliced 1⁄16 inch thick. Look for a hard Gruyère that is aged for at least 10 months and use a rasp-style grater or the small holes of box grater to grate it. If you cannot find tagliatelle, substitute pappardelle.

6 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 shallot, minced

Salt and pepper

1 cup heavy cream

1 pound tagliatelle

cups frozen petite peas, thawed

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

1 ounce Gruyère cheese, grated (½ cup)

1. Slice 5 ounces prosciutto crosswise into¼-inch-wide strips; set aside. Mince remaining 1 ounce prosciutto. Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add shallot and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in cream and minced prosciutto and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until cream mixture measures 1 cup, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and cover to keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 2 cups cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add 1 cup reserved cooking water, cream mixture, prosciutto strips, peas, Parmesan, Gruyère, and 1 teaspoon pepper and gently toss until well coated. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately.

EASY SICHUAN-STYLE ORANGE BEEF WITH SUGAR SNAP PEAS

Serves 4

Total time: 35 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Delicately sweet and crunchy sugar snap peas perfectly complement rich flank steak in this Sichuan-style favorite that is quick enough to prepare any night of the week. Although Sichuan cuisine is often quite spicy, this dish has more of a bright, citrusy flavor profile, with just a touch of warmth from the red pepper flakes. Cooking the beef right in the sauce thoroughly flavors the meat, while the honey in the sauce aids in browning and caramelization. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. Serve with rice.

pounds flank steak, trimmed

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon honey

2 teaspoons grated orange zest plus ½ cup juice

2 garlic cloves, minced

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

8 ounces sugar snap peas, strings removed

2 scallions, sliced thin

1. Cut steak into thirds with grain, then slice each third thin against grain. Combine soy sauce, oil, honey, orange zest and juice, garlic, and pepper flakes in bowl. Cook beef and ⅓ cup orange juice mixture in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated and beef is caramelized, about 15 minutes. Transfer beef to plate and tent with aluminum foil.

2. Add remaining orange juice mixture and snap peas to now-empty skillet and cook, covered, over medium heat, until snap peas are bright green, about 2 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens and snap peas are tender, about 1 minute. Return beef to skillet and toss with snap peas to combine. Sprinkle with scallions and serve.

Pan-Seared Scallops with Sugar Snap Pea Slaw

PAN-SEARED SCALLOPS WITH SUGAR SNAP PEA SLAW

Serves 4

Total time: 25 minutes

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a new take on vegetable slaw, we thinly sliced sweet snap peas, juicy English cucumbers, and peppery radishes for a fresh, crunchy accompaniment to skillet-seared sea scallops. We brightened up the mayonnaise-based slaw dressing with plenty of fresh chives and lemon zest and juice. A quick sear on the scallops deliciously caramelized the exterior while keeping the inside tender. Blotting the scallops on a baking sheet with a clean kitchen towel dried them so that they could quickly develop a flavorful crust without overcooking. We recommend buying “dry” scallops, which don’t have chemical additives and taste better than “wet.” Dry scallops will look ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are bright white.

pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice

Salt and pepper

8 ounces sugar snap peas, strings removed, sliced thin on bias

1 English cucumber, halved lengthwise and sliced thin

6 radishes, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and sliced thin

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Place scallops in rimmed baking sheet lined with clean kitchen towel. Place second clean kitchen towel on top of scallops and press gently on towel to blot liquid. Let scallops sit at room temperature, covered with towel, for 10 minutes.

2. Whisk mayonnaise, chives, lemon zest and juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add snap peas, cucumber, and radishes and toss to combine; set aside for serving.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of scallops to skillet in single layer and cook, without moving them, until well browned on first side, about 1½ minutes. Flip scallops and continue to cook, without moving them, until well browned on second side, about 1½ minutes. Transfer scallops to serving platter and tent with aluminum foil. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining scallops. Serve scallops with slaw.