This may come as a surprise, but sweet potatoes are not related to potatoes. They are actually members of the morning glory family, whereas potatoes belong to the nightshade family. And sweet potatoes are emphatically not the same vegetable as yams. (See “Sweet Potatoes and Yams.”) Many of us would be surprised at what a true yam looks like: blackish-brown, bark-like skin covering a tuber that can be 5 feet long! The rusty-skinned, orange-fleshed, and sweet-tasting root vegetable traditionally found next to the potatoes is always a variety of sweet potato.
There’s a world of sweet potatoes that extends far beyond the orange confines of American markets. Ninety percent of the world’s sweet potatoes are grown in Asia, where they are most often white-fleshed and neither as sweet nor as soft as the traditional orange-fleshed varieties we know in the United States.
But we love our sweet orange spuds, and thankfully the days of looking for them primarily in the canned-foods aisle have mostly passed. They are nearly as versatile in the kitchen as regular potatoes and can be cooked in many of the same preparations, though the techniques need to be adjusted to account for the higher sugar and lower starch content of sweet potatoes.
In these pages, we mash, roast, and spiralize them and give them different flavor profiles. We’ve reinvented classic Sweet Potato Casserole for a new generation, putting the vegetable in the spotlight. Their inherent sweetness makes them perfect in spicier dishes, such as our Sweet Potato, Poblano, and Black Bean Tacos and our Sweet Potato Vindaloo. And, of course, we’ve developed an easy, foolproof technique for perfectly crispy Thick-Cut Sweet Potato Fries.
shopping and storage
Sweet potatoes are available year-round, though their best season is in the fall. Look for firm potatoes that feel heavy for their size, with skin that shows no signs of wrinkling or sprouting. Sweet potatoes with a greenish tinge beneath the skin have had too much exposure to light, causing a natural toxin to develop, and they should also be avoided. Sweet potatoes come in a wide range of sizes. For even cooking, buy potatoes that are uniform in size and avoid potatoes larger than 1½ pounds; they require a longer roasting time and tend to cook unevenly.
Stored in a dark, cool, well-ventilated spot, sweet potatoes will keep for about one month; stored at room temperature, they will keep for a week or two. Do not store them in a plastic bag, which will hasten spoilage. Refrigeration is also a no-no for sweet potatoes, as it will cause their cores to change texture and become distressingly similar to a damp cork.
sweet potatoes and yams
You often hear the terms “yam” and “sweet potato” used interchangeably, but these vegetables belong to completely different botanical families. In the kitchen, they cannot be substituted for one another. Yams, generally sold in Latin and Asian markets, are often sold in chunks (they can grow to be several feet long) and can be found in dozens of varieties, with flesh ranging from white to light yellow to pink, and skin from off-white to brown. They all have very starchy, dry flesh. Sweet potatoes are also found in several varieties and can have firm or soft flesh, but it’s the soft varieties that have in the past been mislabeled as “yams,” and the confusion continues to this day. In an attempt to remedy this, the U.S. Department of Agriculture now requires labels listing the term “yam” to also list the term “sweet potato” when appropriate.
sweet potato varieties
Many varieties of sweet potatoes are available, and they can differ quite a bit in color, texture, and flavor. Often the conventional orange varieties found in supermarkets are not labeled as being particular varieties, which is usually fine since these sweet potatoes are fairly interchangeable in recipes. If we think a specific variety works best in a particular recipe, we’ve made a note of that.
BEAUREGARD BEAUREGARD (most often sold as the conventional sweet potato) has dusky red skin and is sweet, moist, and buttery. Its versatility makes it our favorite variety.
JEWEL Jewel, with copper skin and tender, moist orange flesh, is also frequently found in supermarkets and is another favorite of ours.
RED GARNET Red Garnet is named for its red-purple skin; it has orange flesh that is more savory and less dense than Beauregard or Jewel.
WHITE White sweet potatoes, like the Japanese White and White Sweet, tend to be less moist and starchier than the orange-fleshed varieties.
PURPLE Purple sweet potatoes, like the Stokes Purple, have a dry, dense texture and the highest level of antioxidants of all the sweet potato varieties.
vegetable science
You Say Po-tay-to, I Say Po-tah-to
The familiar sweet potato varieties in American supermarkets contain far less starch and more sugar than regular white potatoes. As a result, they cook very differently. To illustrate this, consider the simple baked potato.
Baking a russet potato in a 450-degree oven for about 45 minutes produced an ideally fluffy interior. But the same approach using a sweet potato resulted in a leaden, watery interior. In the test kitchen, we discovered that baking sweet spuds in a 275-degree oven for about 3 hours produced tender, plush interiors with highly concentrated, caramelized flavors. This is because when a sweet potato’s internal temperature hovers at 200 degrees, the pectin that gives its cell walls structure begins to break down so that the flesh softens and allows moisture to escape. At the same time, starch granules within the cell walls take up water and gelatinize, which makes the potato smooth and creamy.
To make these results useful for the home cook, we developed a method to jump-start the cooking process in the microwave. This hybrid cooking method turned russets gluey. But it sure did the trick with sweet potatoes, making them creamy, sweet, and complex.
vegetable prep
Cutting Sweet Potatoes into Wedges
1. Halve scrubbed potatoes and cut halves lengthwise into 1½-inch-thick wedges.
2. Cut thick wedges into ¾-inch-thick wedges, if recipe directs.
MASHED SWEET POTATOES
Serves 4
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Mashed sweet potatoes often appear on the table overdressed with seasonings and toppings. But these candied concoctions don’t hold a candle to an honest sweet potato mash in terms of flavor. With a deep, natural sweetness that doesn’t require much assistance, the humble sweet potato, we thought, would taste far better if prepared using only a modicum of ingredients. So we created this straightforward recipe to honor the sweet potato. We tried it with whole milk and with half-and-half, but a small amount of heavy cream, in combination with the butter, stole the show. For seasonings, we used just a little sugar, salt, and pepper; the various baking spices often added to mashed sweet potatoes were simply distracting. This is a silky puree with enough body to hold its shape while sitting on a fork, and it pushes this root vegetable’s deep, earthy flavor to the forefront, where it should be.
2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt and pepper
1. Cook potatoes, butter, cream, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt in large saucepan, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until potatoes fall apart when poked with fork, 35 to 45 minutes.
2. Off heat, mash potatoes in saucepan with potato masher until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
VARIATIONS
Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Garlic and Coconut
Substitute ½ cup coconut milk for butter and cream, and add 1 small minced garlic clove and ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes to pot with potatoes. Stir in 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro just before serving.
Indian-Spiced Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Raisins and Cashews
Substitute dark brown sugar for granulated sugar and add ¾ teaspoon garam masala to saucepan along with sweet potatoes in step 1. Stir ¼ cup golden raisins and ¼ cup roasted unsalted cashews, chopped, into mashed sweet potatoes just before serving.
SLOW-COOKER MASHED SWEET POTATOES
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Smooth and velvety with a buttery finish, these mashed sweets will keep you coming back for more. They’re a great alternative to traditional mashed sweet potatoes at holiday time, since they free the stovetop for other dishes. Pressing a piece of parchment on top of the sweet potatoes resulted in even cooking, without any dry edges. For an accurate measurement of the boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. You will need a 5- to 7-quart slow cooker for this recipe. This recipe can be easily doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick
½ cup boiling water
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons half-and-half, warmed
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1. Combine potatoes, boiling water, sugar, and ¾ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cut parchment paper into rectangular piece measuring 16 by 12 inches and press it firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash potatoes with potato masher until smooth. Stir in warm half-and-half and melted butter, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
BEST BAKED SWEET POTATOES WITH GARLIC AND CHIVE SOUR CREAM
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The goal when baking sweet potatoes is entirely different than when baking russets: creamy—rather than fluffy—flesh with deeply complex flavor. Sweet potatoes bake differently than russets due to their lower starch level and higher sugar content. We learned that to bake a whole sweet potato to the point where its exterior was nicely tanned and its interior was silky and sweetly caramelized, the potatoes needed to reach 200 degrees and stay there for an hour, long enough for the starches to gelatinize and the moisture to evaporate for concentrated flavor. To keep our recipe efficient, we microwaved the potatoes until they hit 200 degrees and then transferred them to a hot oven to linger. Putting them on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet allowed air to circulate around the potatoes and also caught any sugar that oozed from the potatoes as they roasted. A quick garlic-chive sour cream topping provided a cool, creamy finishing touch.
½ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1 garlic clove, minced
⅛ teaspoon salt
POTATOES
4 small sweet potatoes (8 ounces each), unpeeled, each lightly pricked with fork in 3 places
Salt and pepper
1. For the garlic and chive sour cream Combine all ingredients in small bowl. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. For the potatoes Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Place potatoes on large plate and microwave until potatoes yield to gentle pressure and register 200 degrees, 6 to 9 minutes, flipping potatoes every 3 minutes.
3. Place wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and spray rack with vegetable oil spray. Transfer potatoes to prepared rack and bake for 1 hour (exteriors of potatoes will be lightly browned and potatoes will feel very soft when squeezed).
4. Slit each potato lengthwise. Using clean dish towel, hold ends and squeeze slightly to push flesh up and out. Transfer potatoes to serving platter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with sour cream topping.
VARIATION
Best Baked Sweet Potatoes with Garam Masala Yogurt
Omit garlic and chive sour cream. Combine ½ cup plain yogurt, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, ½ teaspoon garam masala, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in small bowl, and serve with potatoes.
ROASTED SWEET POTATOES
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Too often, roasted sweet potatoes turn out starchy and wan. We wanted a method that gave us potatoes with a nicely caramelized exterior, a smooth, creamy interior, and an earthy sweetness. Cutting them into ¾-inch-thick rounds and laying them flat on a baking sheet ensured even cooking. A few experiments proved that a lower roasting temperature resulted in a sweeter potato, so we started the sliced potatoes in a cold (versus preheated) oven and covered them with aluminum foil, which allowed plenty of time for their starches to convert to sugars. We removed the foil after 30 minutes and continued to roast the potatoes until their edges were crisp. Choose potatoes that are as even in width as possible; trimming the small ends prevents them from burning. If you prefer not to peel the potatoes, just scrub them well before cutting.
3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, ends squared off, sliced into ¾-inch-thick rounds
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and spray with vegetable oil spray. Toss potatoes, oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. Arrange potatoes in single layer on prepared sheet and cover tightly with aluminum foil.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and place potatoes in cold oven. Turn oven to 425 degrees and cook potatoes for 30 minutes.
3. Remove baking sheet from oven and discard foil. Return potatoes to oven and cook until bottom edges of potatoes are golden brown, 15 to 25 minutes.
4. Remove baking sheet from oven and, using thin metal spatula, flip slices over. Continue to roast until bottom edges of potatoes are golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes. Let potatoes cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then transfer to serving platter. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Maple-Thyme Glaze
Whisk ¼ cup maple syrup, 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, and 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme together in bowl. Brush mixture over both sides of partially cooked potatoes when flipping in step 4, then continue to roast potatoes as directed.
Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Spiced Brown Sugar Glaze
Cook ¼ cup packed light brown sugar, 2 tablespoons apple juice, 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ground ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg in small saucepan over medium heat until butter has melted and sugar is dissolved, 2 to 4 minutes. Brush mixture over both sides of partially cooked potatoes when flipping in step 4, then continue to roast potatoes as directed.
ROASTED SPIRALIZED SWEET POTATOES WITH WALNUTS AND FETA
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Roasted quickly in a hot oven, spiralized sweet potatoes make a fun, crowd-pleasing alternative to regular roasted white potatoes. We decided to use a spiralizer to cut the potatoes into beautiful ⅛-inch-thick noodles that would cook quickly. We found that simply roasting the potatoes in a hot oven, uncovered, for about 12 minutes gave us the result we were after: sweet potatoes that were tender but not mushy, with just a bit of caramelization. To finish the dish, we sprinkled on ¼ cup each of tangy feta and rich toasted walnuts, plus a generous sprinkle of fresh parsley. Sweet potato noodles are quite delicate; be careful when tossing them with the oil and seasonings in step 2, and again when transferring them to the serving platter before serving. If you do not have a spiralizer, you can use a mandoline or V-slicer fitted with a ⅛-inch julienne attachment. Make sure to position the vegetables on the mandoline so that the resulting noodles are as long as possible. We do not recommend cutting vegetable noodles by hand.
2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and ends squared off
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
Salt and pepper
¼ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (¼ cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Using spiralizer, cut sweet potatoes into ⅛-inch-thick noodles, then cut noodles into 12-inch lengths.
2. Toss potato noodles, oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in bowl, then spread on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until just tender, 12 to 14 minutes, stirring once halfway through roasting.
3. Season potatoes with salt and pepper to taste, and transfer to serving platter. Sprinkle walnuts, feta, and parsley over top, then drizzle with extra oil to taste. Serve.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
ROASTED SPIRALIZED SWEET POTATOES WITH WALNUTS AND FETA
Spiralizing offers a fun and easy way to fill your plate with the bounty of vegetables, and sweet potatoes are a heartier choice than most of the usual suspects. Though spiralized vegetable noodles are often served steamed, sautéed, or raw, roasting them caramelizes them slightly, concentrating and enhancing their flavor. The rich, slightly bitter walnuts and creamy-tangy feta provide the perfect counterpoint to the natural sweetness of the potatoes.
1. Peel the sweet potatoes and trim both ends of each sweet potato to square them off.
2. Using a spiralizer, cut the sweet potatoes into ⅛-inch-thick noodles.
3. Cut the potato noodles into 12-inch lengths.
4. Gently toss the potato noodles, olive oil, salt, and pepper together in a bowl.
5. Spread the noodles on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until tender, 12 to 14 minutes, stirring once halfway through roasting.
6. Season the sweet potatoes with salt and pepper to taste, and transfer them to a serving platter. Sprinkle the walnuts, feta, and parsley over the top, then drizzle with extra olive oil to taste.
THICK-CUT SWEET POTATO FRIES
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sweet potatoes cook very differently than white potatoes— a fact that is nowhere more apparent than when making fries. It’s very hard to make sweet potato fries that rival classic French fries made from russets. Sweet potato fries are typically either soggy or burnt—and often they hit both marks at once. Occasionally a restaurant manages to deliver crispy sweet potato fries, but they never taste much like the tuber. These fries are usually not even house-made: They’re frozen fries purchased from a food-processing plant. Furthermore, they’re frequently cut too thin for our liking, offering little in the way of a supercreamy, sweet-tasting interior—which is, in our opinion, the biggest selling point of this vegetable. Fueled by a serious hunger for good thick-cut sweet potato fries, we ordered 50 pounds of the orange spuds and got to work. The secret is the cornstarch, which creates a thin coating that ensures a crisp exterior for the sweet potato fries. If your sweet potatoes are shorter than 4 inches in length, do not cut the wedges crosswise.
SPICY FRY SAUCE (OPTIONAL)
6 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Asian chili-garlic sauce
2 teaspoons white vinegar
FRIES
½ cup cornstarch
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, cut lengthwise into ¾-inch-thick wedges, wedges halved crosswise
3 cups peanut or vegetable oil
1. For the spicy fry sauce Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and set aside for serving.
2. For the fries Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Whisk cornstarch and ½ cup cold water together in large bowl; set aside.
3. Bring 2 quarts water, ¼ cup salt, and baking soda to boil in Dutch oven. Add potatoes and return to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until exteriors turn slightly mushy (centers will remain firm), 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk cornstarch slurry to recombine. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to bowl with slurry.
4. Using rubber spatula, fold potatoes with slurry until slurry turns light orange, thickens to paste, and clings to potatoes.
5. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat to 325 degrees. Using tongs, carefully add one-third of potatoes to oil, making sure that potatoes aren’t touching one another. Fry until crispy and lightly browned, 7 to 10 minutes, using tongs to flip potatoes halfway through frying (adjust heat as necessary to maintain oil temperature between 280 and 300 degrees). Using slotted spoon, transfer fries to prepared rack (fries that stick together can be separated). Season with salt to taste, and transfer to oven to keep warm. Return oil to 325 degrees and repeat in 2 more batches with remaining potatoes. Serve immediately, with the sauce, if desired.
SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE
Serves 10 to 12
Total time: 2 hours 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Without fail, every Thanksgiving millions of cooks across the country prepare the butter-laden, over-spiced, marshmallow-topped casserole we all know. It’s as much a side of nostalgia as it is a side dish, but with all that fat, sugar, and spice, the sweet potatoes get lost. Here is our potato-focused version of this home-style classic. For precooking the potatoes, we found that, although baking took longer than microwaving or boiling, it produced a rich, intense sweetness that was worth every minute. Baking intensified their flavor to the point that the excessive amounts of sugar traditionally added became superfluous. The next question to resolve was texture. We wanted the best of both worlds—chunky and smooth—so we tried a mix of potato chunks and smooth puree, gently folding in the chunks just before baking. Bites of dense potato were thus suspended throughout the puree. This varied texture paired perfectly with the crunchy streusel topping, which stole the show in the test kitchen, with its crisp texture and nutty, bittersweet flavor that held the filling’s richness at bay. Nobody even missed the marshmallows.
POTATOES
7 pounds sweet potatoes, unpeeled, each lightly pricked with fork in 6 places
STREUSEL
½ cup (2½ ounces) all-purpose flour
½ cup packed (3½ ounces) dark brown sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 5 pieces and softened
1 cup pecans
FILLING
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
4 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon pepper
Granulated sugar
4 large egg yolks
1½ cups half-and-half
1. For the potatoes Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Evenly space potatoes on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake potatoes, turning once, until very tender and easy to squeeze with tongs, 1 to 1½ hours. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise and let cool for at least 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.
2. For the streusel Grease 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Pulse flour, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, about 4 pulses. Sprinkle butter over flour mixture and pulse until crumbly mass forms, 6 to 8 pulses. Sprinkle pecans over top and pulse until combined but some large pecan pieces remain, 4 to 6 pulses. Transfer streusel to bowl.
3. Once potatoes have cooled slightly, use soupspoon to scoop flesh into large bowl (you should have about 8 cups). Transfer half of potato flesh to now-empty food processor. Using rubber spatula, break remaining potato flesh in bowl into coarse 1-inch pieces.
4. For the filling Add melted butter, lemon juice, vanilla, salt, nutmeg, and pepper to processor and process until smooth, about 20 seconds. Season with up to 4 tablespoons sugar to taste. Add egg yolks. With processor running, slowly add half-and-half until incorporated, about 20 seconds. Add to bowl with potato pieces and stir to combine.
5. Spread potato mixture in prepared dish. Sprinkle with streusel, breaking up any large pieces with your fingers. Bake until topping is well browned and filling is slightly puffy around edges, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.
SWEET POTATO AND SWISS CHARD GRATIN
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a new twist on a classic potato gratin, we created a decidedly savory and elegant sweet potato version. To mitigate some of the potatoes’ natural sweetness, we turned to earthy, slightly bitter Swiss chard, which we sautéed in butter with shallot, garlic, and thyme. We shingled half the sliced potatoes along the bottom of the gratin dish, topped them with the chard, and then layered on the remaining potatoes. Pouring a combination of water, wine, and cream over the vegetables encouraged the potatoes to cook evenly and imparted a welcome richness. Covering the gratin dish for the first half of baking ensured that the potatoes cooked through. We then uncovered the dish so that the excess liquid could evaporate and the cheesy topping could brown. Slicing the potatoes ⅛ inch thick is crucial for the success of this dish; use a mandoline, a V-slicer, or a food processor fitted with a ⅛-inch-thick slicing blade.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, minced
Salt
2 pounds Swiss chard, stemmed and cut into ½-inch-wide strips
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
¾ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup heavy cream
⅓ cup water
⅓ cup dry white wine
3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced ⅛ inch thick
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add shallots and 1 teaspoon salt and cook until shallots are softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in chard and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, and pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds; transfer to bowl.
2. Add cream, water, wine, and 1 teaspoon salt to now-empty pot and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Remove pot from heat and cover to keep warm.
3. Shingle half of potatoes evenly into 3-quart gratin dish (or 13 by 9-inch baking dish). Spread wilted chard mixture evenly over potatoes, then shingle remaining potatoes over top. Pour cream mixture evenly over top and sprinkle with Parmesan.
4. Cover dish with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until gratin is golden and feels tender when poked with paring knife, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.
GRILLED SWEET POTATO SALAD
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To bring together two favorite summer traditions—potato salad and grilling—we used the grill to both steam and char sweet potatoes, so all the cooking was done outside. We first tossed the potatoes with a spiced vinaigrette in a disposable aluminum pan; the vinaigrette generated steam and helped cook the potatoes through while also seasoning them. Once the potatoes were steamed, we transferred them from the pan to the hot cooking grate to give them some flavorful char. Threading toothpicks through the onion rounds kept them intact and prevented them from falling through the grate during cooking. We sprinkled feta, scallions, and cilantro over the grilled salad to finish it off. We recommend using medium potatoes, 2 to 3 inches in diameter, because they’ll fit neatly in the disposable aluminum pan.
1 small red onion, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds
3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes), plus lime wedges for serving
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Salt and pepper
⅓ cup vegetable oil
2½ pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick rounds
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum pan
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
3 scallions, sliced thin on bias
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. Thread 1 toothpick horizontally through each onion round. Whisk lime juice, honey, chipotle, cumin, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil until combined; set aside.
2. Toss potatoes, onion rounds, ¼ cup vinaigrette, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in separate bowl. Place onion rounds in bottom of disposable pan, layer potatoes over top, then pour in any remaining liquid from bowl. Cover disposable pan tightly with aluminum foil.
3a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium. Adjust burners as needed to maintain grill temperature around 400 degrees.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place disposable pan on grill. Cover grill and cook until vegetables are tender, 20 to 25 minutes, shaking disposable pan halfway through cooking to redistribute potatoes. Remove disposable pan from grill.
5. Place vegetables on cooking grate. Cook (covered if using gas) until lightly charred and tender, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer vegetables to bowl with remaining vinaigrette, discarding toothpicks from onion rounds and separating rings. Toss vegetables to coat, then transfer to serving platter. Sprinkle feta, scallions, and cilantro over top. Serve with lime wedges.
SWEET POTATO SOUP
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS What’s the secret to our creamy sweet potato soup’s deep, earthy-sweet flavor? Keeping the skins in play. Before simmering and pureeing the peeled potatoes, we coaxed out more natural sweetness by soaking them in hot water, allowing their starches to turn into pure sugar. Pureeing some of the skins along with the softened potatoes added depth to the otherwise sweet soup, a contrast we reinforced with some brown sugar and a touch of cider vinegar. The simple maple–sour cream topping adds some sweet-tangy coolness when serving the soup, and a sprinkling of minced chives adds a pop of color and delicate oniony flavor.
MAPLE SOUR CREAM
⅓ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon maple syrup
SOUP
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 shallot, sliced thin
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4¼ cups water
2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, and sliced ¼ inch thick, ¼ of peels reserved
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon cider vinegar
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1. For the maple sour cream Combine ingredients in small bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. For the soup Melt butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add shallot and thyme sprigs and cook until shallot is softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in water and bring to simmer over high heat. Off heat, add sweet potatoes and reserved peels, and let stand uncovered for 20 minutes.
3. Stir in sugar, vinegar, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until potatoes are very soft, about 10 minutes.
4. Discard thyme sprigs. Working in batches, process soup in blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Return soup to clean pot. Return to simmer, adjusting consistency if desired. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, topping each portion with sprinkle of chives and drizzle of maple sour cream.
HEARTY BEEF AND SWEET POTATO CHILI
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 3 hours
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sweet potatoes do double duty in this beef-and-veggie chili. We added some early in the cooking process so that they would break down and thicken the chili and then added the rest later, along with tomatoes, bell peppers, and scallions. For the beef, we chose well-marbled, inexpensive beef chuck-eye for its ability to become meltingly tender. We browned it for rich flavor and then stewed it long enough to make it fork-tender. An aromatic base of garlic, cumin, chipotle, and chili powder gave our stew real depth of flavor and some heat. The heat balanced out the sweetness of the sweet potatoes and bell pepper, and mild beer added further complexity. Once our meat was tender, we added the rest of the sweet potatoes and bell pepper, cooking them just long enough to have toothsome chunks in our stew. Light-bodied American lagers, such as Budweiser, work best in this recipe. Serve with lime wedges, sliced avocado, cilantro leaves, sour cream, and shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese.
3½ pounds boneless beef chuck-eye roast, pulled apart at seams, trimmed, and cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
1½ pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1½ cups beer
2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces
4 scallions, sliced thin
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add half of beef and brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes; transfer to large bowl. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining beef.
2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty pot and heat until shimmering. Add onion and ¾ cup sweet potatoes and cook until just beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, cumin, chipotle, chili powder, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and their juice, beer, beans, and browned beef along with any accumulated juices, scraping up any browned bits.
3. Bring chili to simmer. Cover, transfer pot to oven, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sweet potatoes are broken down and beef is just tender, about 1 hour 40 minutes.
4. Remove pot from oven and stir in bell pepper and remaining sweet potatoes. Return to oven and continue to cook until meat and sweet potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
5. Remove pot from oven, uncover, and let chili stand until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle with scallions before serving.
SWEET POTATO VINDALOO
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Vindaloo is a complex dish that blends Portuguese and Indian cuisines in a potent braise featuring warm spices, chiles, wine vinegar, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and mustard seeds. It’s often made with pork, lamb, or chicken as the main ingredient, but here we translated its comfort-food appeal into a hearty vegetarian stew. Centering our dish on a combination of sweet potatoes and red potatoes proved just right, since the low-and-slow cooking developed complex flavors. However, after 45 minutes of simmering, the potatoes weren’t fully cooked. A second look at our ingredients showed us why: The acidic environment created by the tomatoes and vinegar was preventing our potatoes from becoming tender. To test our theory, we whipped up another batch, this time leaving out the tomatoes and vinegar until the end, cooking them just enough to mellow their flavors. Sure enough, after just 15 minutes, our potatoes were perfectly tender. To give our vindaloo exceptionally deep flavor, we used a mix of Indian spices, along with bay leaves and mustard seeds, and simmered the spices along with the potatoes. We finished the dish with a cooling dollop of yogurt.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 onions, chopped fine
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 pound red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
10 garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¾ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
2½ cups water
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2½ tablespoons red wine vinegar
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro
1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, sweet potatoes, red potatoes, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened and potatoes begin to soften at edges, 10 to 12 minutes.
2. Stir in garlic, paprika, cumin, cardamom, cayenne, and cloves and cook until fragrant and vegetables are well coated, about 2 minutes. Gradually stir in water, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in bay leaves, mustard seeds, and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Stir in tomatoes and their juice and vinegar and continue to simmer, uncovered, until flavors are blended and sauce has thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Discard bay leaves, stir in cilantro, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SWEET POTATO, POBLANO, AND BLACK BEAN TACOS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make a great vegetarian taco, we experimented with lots of different ingredient and flavor combinations. One of our favorites turned out to be sweet potatoes and poblano chiles, which we seasoned with fragrant garlic, cumin, coriander, and oregano. Roasting the potatoes and chiles produced caramelized exteriors and tender interiors. Adding black beans to the filling made the filling even heartier and also contributed protein. Instead of topping the tacos with queso fresco or sour cream, we made a quick and delicious avocado crema. For a tangy, spicy, perfect finish, we sprinkled the tacos with our Quick Sweet and Spicy Pickled Red Onions.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried
Salt and pepper
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
4 poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch strips
1 large onion, halved and sliced ½ inch thick
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Whisk oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, oregano, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Add potatoes, poblanos, and onion to oil mixture and toss to coat.
2. Spread vegetable mixture in even layer over 2 aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheets. Roast vegetables until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes, stirring vegetables and switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking.
3. Return vegetables to now-empty bowl, add black beans and cilantro, and gently toss to combine. Divide vegetable fillings evenly among tortillas and top with pickled onions. Serve.
SWEET POTATO BISCUITS
Makes 16 biscuits
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It was only a matter of time before sweet potato–loving Southern cooks combined the fluffy texture and pleasant tang of biscuits with the earthy sweetness of this popular tuber. To add this potato’s natural sweetness to biscuits without weighing down the dough, we microwaved the sweet potatoes, which eliminated their moisture while concentrating their flavor. After mashing the flesh, we stirred in cider vinegar to mimic buttermilk’s tang and to create greater lift once combined with the dough’s baking powder and baking soda. We maximized the biscuits’ tender texture with low-protein cake flour and opted for the deep, molasses-like sweetness of brown sugar to complement the sweet potatoes. The dough took on a pretty orange color, and, once baked, the biscuits emerged tender and subtly sweet, perfectly ready for a smear of butter or jam, or to be sliced and stuffed with ham and mustard. If you can find them, Beauregard sweet potatoes are the best variety for these biscuits. The biscuits can be stored in airtight container for up to two days.
2½ pounds sweet potatoes, unpeeled, lightly pricked all over with fork
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
3¼ cups (13 ounces) cake flour
¼ cup packed (1¾ ounces) dark brown sugar
5 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1½ teaspoons salt
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled, plus 2 tablespoons melted
4 tablespoons vegetable shortening, cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled
1. Microwave potatoes on plate until very soft and surfaces are wet, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping every 5 minutes. Immediately cut potatoes in half. When potatoes are cool enough to handle, scoop flesh into large bowl and, using potato masher, mash until smooth. (You should have 2 cups. Reserve any extra for another use.) Stir in vinegar and refrigerate until cool, about 15 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Process flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in food processor until combined. Scatter chilled butter and shortening over top and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 15 pulses. Transfer flour mixture to bowl with cooled potatoes and fold with rubber spatula until incorporated.
3. Turn out dough onto floured counter and knead until smooth, 8 to 10 times. Pat dough into 9-inch circle, about 1 inch thick. Using floured 2¼-inch round cutter, stamp out biscuits and arrange on prepared sheet. Gently pat dough scraps into 1-inch-thick circle and stamp out remaining biscuits. (You should have 16 biscuits total.)
4. Brush tops of biscuits with melted butter and bake until golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes. Let biscuits cool on sheet for 15 minutes before serving.