Tomatoes are a bit like peaches: When you get a mealy one, it goes right into the trash, but when you get a perfectly ripe one, it’s a truly transcendent food experience. (And yes, like the peach, the tomato is a fruit.) Who among us hasn’t eaten such a luscious tomato right over the kitchen sink to catch its dripping juices?
And what’s the best way to ensure that you get that juicy, flavorful tomato? Buy a locally grown one from a small farmer. This is because, first, the shorter the distance the tomato has to travel, the riper it can be when it’s picked. Second, commercial high-yield production can strain the plants, resulting in tomatoes without enough sugars and other flavor compounds to make them tasty. Third, commercial varieties are bred to be sturdier, with thick walls that withstand the rigors of machine harvesting and long-distance transport.
The best-tasting tomatoes have thin walls, leaving more room for the jelly that surrounds the seeds; this jelly is flavor central, with three times more savory flavor compounds known as glutamates than the tomato flesh. Some of the most delicious tomatoes you’ll find are heirloom tomatoes. This is a term that gets bandied about freely, but any variety not associated with large-scale commercial production may be labeled as heirloom. Most have been grown for decades from naturally pollinated plants and seeds that haven’t been hybridized for productivity, unlike commercial varieties.
In this chapter, you’ll find recipes for tomato salads, sauces, salsa, jam, relish, and pesto. Don’t miss our elegant Best Summer Tomato Gratin or Creamy Gazpacho Andaluz. And, when tomato season draws to a close, console yourself with Fried Green Tomatoes.
shopping and storage
High quality control for commercially grown grape tomatoes and cherry tomatoes, plus their ubiquity in the supermarket, make these two varieties reasonable year-round choices. We’ve also found vine-ripened tomatoes to be juicy and flavorful supermarket options. However, for getting the juiciest, most flavorful fruit, nothing comes close to buying locally field-grown, vine-ripened tomatoes at the height of summer. Always choose tomatoes that smell fruity and feel heavy for their size. Commercial tomatoes have been bred to be perfectly symmetrical and uniformly attractive. When shopping at farmers’ markets, you will see plenty of oddly shaped tomatoes, which are completely fine to purchase. Even cracked skin, which you see often on heirloom varieties, is OK. Just avoid tomatoes that are bruised, overly soft, or leaking juice.
go ahead and refrigerate ripe tomatoes
Standard wisdom dictates that tomatoes should never be refrigerated, supposedly because cold kills their flavor-producing enzymes and ruins their texture by causing cells to rupture. We decided to test this. Over two summers, we acquired heirloom and farmers’ market tomatoes that had never been refrigerated (most supermarket tomatoes are refrigerated during storage and/or transport). Once they were ripe, we left some tomatoes whole and halved others. We then refrigerated one set and left the second set at room temperature, storing them until they started to degrade. We stored the whole tomatoes loose and the cut tomatoes in airtight containers to protect from off flavors. We then sampled all the tomatoes at room temperature. Shelf life for the refrigerated whole tomatoes was prolonged by five days. The cut tomatoes held up well for two days in the refrigerator. Best of all? Their flavor was unaffected. So feel free to refrigerate both whole and cut ripe tomatoes to prolong their life.
canned tomato products
Canned tomatoes, which are processed at the height of freshness, deliver more flavor than off-season fresh tomatoes. But with all the options lining supermarket shelves, it’s not always clear what to buy. We tested a variety of canned tomato products.
WHOLE TOMATOES Peeled whole tomatoes are packed in either their own juice or puree. They are quite soft and break down quickly when cooked. They’re best when fresh tomato flavor is a must. We prefer Muir Glen Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes.
DICED TOMATOES Tomatoes are peeled, machine-diced, and packed in either their own juice or puree. Diced tomatoes are best for rustic tomato sauces with a chunky texture, and in long-cooked stews and soups in which you want the tomatoes to hold their shape. We favor diced tomatoes packed in juice, rather than puree, because they have a fresher flavor. Our winning brand is Hunt’s Diced Tomatoes.
CRUSHED TOMATOES Whole tomatoes are ground very fine and then enriched with tomato puree. They work well in smoother sauces, and their thicker consistency makes them ideal when you want to make a sauce quickly. You can make your own by pulsing canned diced tomatoes in a food processor. We prefer SMT Crushed Tomatoes.
TOMATO PUREE Made from cooked tomatoes that are strained to remove their seeds and skins, tomato puree works well in long-simmered, smooth, thick sauces with a deep, hearty flavor. Our winning brand is Muir Glen Organic Tomato Puree.
TOMATO PASTE Tomato paste is tomato puree that has been cooked to remove almost all moisture. Because it’s so concentrated, tomato paste brings out subtle deep savory notes. We use it in a variety of recipes, including both long-simmered sauces and quicker-cooking dishes, to lend a complex, rounded tomato flavor and color. Our winning brand is Goya Tomato Paste.
vegetable prep
Coring and Chopping or Dicing Tomatoes
1. Cut around core of tomato with paring knife and remove core.
2. Slice cored tomato crosswise into even slices and stack a couple of slices. Cut stacked slices first crosswise and then widthwise into pieces of desired size.
Stuffing Tomatoes
1. Cut top ½ inch off stem and set aside.
2. Using melon baller, scoop out tomato pulp into fine-mesh strainer set over bowl.
FRESH TOMATO SAUCE
Makes 4 cups; enough for 1 pound pasta
Total time: 20 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The best tomato sauce recipes are pure, quick, and simple, consisting of nothing more than tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, herbs, salt, a bit of sugar, and pepper. With that philosophy in mind, we set out to develop a fresh tomato sauce recipe that capitalized on this list of ingredients. We found that cooking the garlic in the oil for a minute or two prevented it from burning. The tomatoes, which we cooked for just 10 minutes, broke down readily and thickened slightly, just enough to ably coat the pasta. The success of this recipe depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes. If you’re using exceptionally sweet tomatoes, omit the sugar.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon sugar (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
Cook oil and garlic in large saucepan over medium heat until garlic is fragrant but not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, ¾ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and sugar, if using. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until tomatoes are broken down and sauce is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
ROASTED TOMATOES
Makes about 1½ cups
Total time: 2 hours 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS If you’ve never roasted tomatoes, you should. It’s a largely hands-off technique that yields the ultimate condiment: bright, concentrated, savory-sweet tomatoes that are soft but retain their shape. There are so many ways to use them, including as a topping for crostini and pizza, in sandwiches, tossed into pasta, or added to a quiche or frittata. The flavorful tomato oil is great in salad dressings or drizzled over roasted meat, fish, or vegetables. For intensely flavored tomatoes, we started by cutting the tomatoes into thick slices and arranging them on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Drizzling on plenty of extra-virgin olive oil helped the tomatoes roast faster. Adding smashed garlic cloves lent flavor and fragrance to the tomatoes and oil. Avoid using tomatoes smaller than 3 inches in diameter, which have a smaller ratio of flavorful jelly to skin than larger tomatoes. To double the recipe, use two baking sheets, increase the roasting time in step 2 to 40 minutes, and rotate and switch the sheets halfway through baking. In step 3, increase the roasting time to 1½ to 2½ hours.
3 pounds large tomatoes, cored, bottom ⅛ inch trimmed, and sliced ¾ inch thick
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
Kosher salt and pepper
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Arrange tomatoes in even layer on prepared sheet, with larger slices around edge and smaller slices in center. Place garlic cloves on tomatoes. Sprinkle with oregano and ¼ teaspoon salt and season with pepper. Drizzle oil evenly over tomatoes.
2. Roast for 30 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through roasting. Remove sheet from oven. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees and prop open door with wooden spoon to cool oven. Using thin spatula, flip tomatoes.
3. Return tomatoes to oven and cook until spotty brown, skins are blistered, and tomatoes have collapsed to ¼ to ½ inch thick, 1 to 2 hours. Remove from oven and let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Discard garlic and serve. (Tomatoes and oil can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
SLOW-COOKER TOMATOES WITH OLIVE OIL
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS If you’re lucky enough to have an overabundance of freshly picked August tomatoes, or you’re just looking for a way to improve average supermarket specimens, this “slow-roasted” method for melt-in-your-mouth tomatoes is a great way to go. They are amazing alongside roasted meat or fish with plenty of crusty bread for dipping into the extra cooking liquid. To start, we cored the tomatoes, then halved them lengthwise through the stem end. We gently tossed them with just enough extra-virgin olive oil to infuse them with bright, fruity flavor as they released their juices into the slow cooker, creating a flavorful cooking liquid. The addition of smashed garlic cloves, which mellowed and softened during the long cooking time, lent a rich, nutty flavor to the oil and paired well with the fresh thyme that we used. Aside from a little salt and pepper, no other seasoning was needed for this uncomplicated dish. You will need a 5- to 7-quart slow cooker for this recipe.
6 tomatoes, cored and halved
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or ¾ teaspoon dried
Salt and pepper
1. Combine tomatoes, oil, garlic, thyme, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until tomatoes are tender and slightly shriveled around edges, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Let tomatoes cool in liquid for at least 15 minutes or up to 4 hours. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Tomatoes and liquid can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Southern cooks have long made the most of an unripe tomato crop by dunking sliced green tomatoes in breading and frying them to a golden crust. For a crisp, stay-put coating, we first drained tomato slices on paper towels. Once dry, the tomatoes were ready for breading. We found that processing some of the cornmeal to a fine crumb minimized its grittiness. We then dunked the slices in egg and buttermilk and dredged them through our cornmeal blend before frying. The acid in the buttermilk helped the starchy coating absorb moisture, making it especially crisp when fried. After just a few minutes, these sweet-tart tomatoes developed a golden-brown crust that was so good, we found ourselves looking forward to the first frost and its bonanza of never-to-ripen green tomatoes.
1½ pounds green tomatoes, cored and sliced ¼ inch thick
⅔ cup cornmeal
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon pepper
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
⅔ cup buttermilk
1 large egg
2 cups peanut or vegetable oil
1. Place tomatoes on paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet. Cover with more paper towels, let sit for 20 minutes, and pat dry. Meanwhile, process ⅓ cup cornmeal in blender until very finely ground, about 1 minute. Combine processed cornmeal, remaining ⅓ cup cornmeal, flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne in shallow dish. Whisk buttermilk and egg together in second shallow dish.
2. Working with 1 tomato slice at a time, dip in buttermilk mixture, then dredge in cornmeal mixture, pressing firmly to adhere; transfer to clean baking sheet.
3. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat to 350 degrees. Fry 4 tomato slices until golden brown on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain on prepared wire rack. Return oil to 350 degrees and repeat with remaining tomato slices in batches. Serve.
SPICY TOMATO JAM
Makes 2 cups
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes (plus 1 hour cooling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Ruby-red tomato jam is a flavorful way to transform your tomatoes into a unique topping for sandwiches or a base for dips; or dollop it onto a cheese plate. It’s a cinch to make: Just combine everything in a large pot and cook it down to a deliciously sweet and spicy jam. Leaving the peels on the tomatoes gave our chunky jam a good texture. In our attempts to achieve the right amount of heat, we started by adding three jalapeños, seeds included. The jam barely had a kick to stand up to the sweet tomato flavors but instead had a prominent grassy flavor. So, we swapped the jalapeños for a single seeded habanero. This chile packed the heat we were looking for as well as a complementary fruity flavor. For an even spicier tomato jam, include the habanero seeds.
2½ pounds tomatoes, cored and chopped
1 cup red wine vinegar
¾ cup sugar
7 garlic cloves, minced
1 habanero chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon salt
Bring all ingredients to simmer in large saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, stirring often, until mixture has thickened and darkened in color and measures slightly more than 2 cups, 1 to 1¼ hours. Let jam cool completely, about 1 hour, before serving. (Jam can be refrigerated for at least 4 months; flavor will become milder over time.)
FRESH TOMATO SALSA
Makes about 3 cups
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Tomato-based salsa fresca (or salsa cruda) accompanies a wide variety of Mexican dishes; it’s treated more like a relish than a sauce or a dip and can be served with chicken, seafood, burritos, and more. We set out to create our own version of this versatile, chunky, brightly flavored salsa. We first drained diced tomatoes in a colander. We layered the other ingredients on top of the tomatoes while they drained and then simply stirred everything together in a bowl. We finished the salsa with lime juice (which tasted more authentic than lemon juice), salt, and sugar.
1½ pounds tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces
½ cup finely chopped red onion
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 large jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeds reserved, and minced
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons lime juice, plus extra for seasoning
Salt and pepper
Sugar
Place tomatoes in colander and let drain for 30 minutes. As tomatoes drain, layer onion, cilantro, jalapeño, and garlic on top. Shake colander to drain excess juice, then transfer vegetables to serving bowl. Stir in lime juice. Add reserved jalapeño seeds to increase heat as desired. Season with salt, pepper, sugar, and extra lime juice to taste before serving.
SIMPLE TOMATO SALAD
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A simple, made-in-minutes tomato salad is one of the elemental joys of summer. This recipe starts with the ripest tomatoes you can find, either at the farmers’ market or at the grocery store. Because tomatoes are already fairly acidic, we found that a dressing made with the typical 3:1 ratio of oil to acid was too sharp here. Adjusting the amount of lemon juice to minimize the acidity perfectly balanced the salad. A minced shallot added just a bit of sweetness, toasted pine nuts added a buttery nuttiness, and both contributed crunch. Torn basil leaves completed the salad with a fresh herbal note. The success of this recipe depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes. Serve with crusty bread to sop up the dressing.
1½ pounds mixed ripe tomatoes, cored and sliced ¼ inch thick
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1 tablespoon torn fresh basil leaves
Arrange tomatoes on large, shallow platter. Whisk oil, shallot, lemon juice, salt, and pepper together in bowl. Spoon dressing over tomatoes. Sprinkle with pine nuts and basil. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS
Simple Tomato Salad with Capers and Parsley
Omit pine nuts. Add 1 tablespoon rinsed capers, 1 rinsed and minced anchovy fillet, and ⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes to dressing. Substitute chopped fresh parsley for basil.
Simple Tomato Salad with Pecorino Romano and Oregano
Add ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest and ⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes to dressing. Substitute 1 ounce shaved Pecorino Romano cheese for pine nuts and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano for basil.
CHERRY TOMATO SALAD WITH BASIL AND FRESH MOZZARELLA
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cherry tomatoes make a delicious all-season salad, but the liquid they exude can make a soggy mess. To get rid of some of their juice without also draining away flavor, we salted them, then used a salad spinner to separate the tomato liquid from the flesh. We reduced this liquid to a flavorful concentrate (adding shallot, olive oil, and vinegar) and reunited it with the tomatoes. Some fresh mozzarella and chopped basil filled out this great salad. If you don’t have a salad spinner, wrap the bowl tightly with plastic wrap after the salted tomatoes have sat for 30 minutes and gently shake to remove seeds and excess liquid. Strain the liquid and proceed with the recipe as directed. If you have less than ½ cup of juice after spinning, proceed with the recipe using the entire amount of juice you do have and reduce it to 3 tablespoons as directed (the cooking time will be shorter).
1½ pounds cherry tomatoes, quartered
½ teaspoon sugar
Salt and pepper
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into ½-inch pieces and patted dry with paper towels
1½ cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves, roughly torn
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1. Toss tomatoes with sugar and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl and let sit for 30 minutes. Transfer tomatoes to salad spinner and spin until seeds and excess liquid have been removed, 45 to 60 seconds, stopping to redistribute tomatoes several times during spinning. Add tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil leaves to large bowl; set aside.
2. Strain ½ cup tomato liquid through fine-mesh strainer into liquid measuring cup; discard remaining liquid. Bring tomato liquid, shallot, and vinegar to simmer in small saucepan over medium heat and cook until reduced to 3 tablespoons, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to small bowl and let cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil. Drizzle dressing over salad and gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Cherry Tomato Salad with Tarragon and Blue Cheese
Substitute ½ cup crumbled blue cheese for mozzarella and 1½ tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon for basil. Add ½ cup toasted and chopped pecans to bowl with drained tomatoes. Substitute cider vinegar for balsamic vinegar and add 4 teaspoons honey and 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard to saucepan with tomato liquid before cooking.
Cherry Tomato Salad with Mango and Lime-Curry Vinaigrette
Substitute 1 mango, cut into ½-inch pieces, for mozzarella and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro for basil. Add ½ cup toasted slivered almonds to bowl with drained tomatoes. Substitute 4 teaspoons lime juice for balsamic vinegar and add ¼ teaspoon curry powder to saucepan with tomato liquid before cooking.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
TOMATO AND BURRATA SALAD WITH PANGRATTATO AND BASIL
Caprese salad is a faithful Italian standby, but we wanted to up the ante to create a luxe modern reimagined showstopper. To intensify the flavor of the tomatoes, we salted and drained them and dressed them with a white balsamic vinaigrette. Decadent burrata stepped in for the regular mozzarella. And our pangrattato—crispy, garlicky bread crumbs made from a rustic, crusty loaf—brought this salad firmly into the 21st century.
1. Toss the tomato pieces and the cherry tomato halves with the salt and let them drain in a colander for 30 minutes.
2. To make the pangrattato, pulse the bread pieces in a food processor into large crumbs ⅛ to ¼ inch thick.
3. Cook the crumbs in the seasoned oil in a skillet until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Clear the center of the skillet, add the garlic, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then stir the garlic into the toasted bread crumbs.
4. To make the vinaigrette, whisk together the shallot, vinegar, and salt in a large bowl. Drizzle in the olive oil while whisking constantly.
5. Add the drained tomatoes and the basil and gently toss with the vinaigrette.
6. Arrange the tomatoes on a serving platter. Arrange the burrata over the tomatoes, drizzle with the creamy liquid, and sprinkle with the bread crumbs.
TOMATO AND BURRATA SALAD WITH PANGRATTATO AND BASIL
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Burrata is a deluxe version of fresh mozzarella in which supple cheese is bound around a filling of cream and bits of cheese. We wanted to create a Caprese-inspired salad in which summer’s best tomatoes could star alongside this decadent cheese. We quickly realized that just tomatoes, basil, and good olive oil weren’t enough to bring out the best in the rich burrata. To concentrate the tomato flavor, we used a combination of standard tomatoes and cherry tomatoes, and we found that salting them for 30 minutes helped draw out their watery juices. Blending the olive oil with a little minced shallot and mild white balsamic vinegar gave us a bold vinaigrette. Finally, adding a topping of Italian pangrattato (rustic garlicky bread crumbs) brought the dish together, soaking up both the tomato juices and the burrata cream. The success of this dish depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes and very fresh, high-quality burrata.
1½ pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces ripe cherry tomatoes, halved
Salt and pepper
3 ounces rustic Italian bread, cut into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 shallot, halved and sliced thin
1½ tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
½ cup chopped fresh basil
8 ounces burrata cheese, room temperature
1. Toss tomatoes with ¼ teaspoon salt and let drain in colander for 30 minutes.
2. Pulse bread in food processor into large crumbs measuring between ⅛ and ¼ inch, about 10 pulses. Combine crumbs, 2 tablespoons oil, pinch salt, and pinch pepper in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until crumbs are crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Clear center of skillet, add garlic, and cook, mashing it into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic into crumbs. Transfer to plate and let cool slightly.
3. Whisk shallot, vinegar, and ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in remaining ¼ cup oil. Add tomatoes and basil and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and arrange on serving platter. Cut burrata into 1-inch pieces, collecting creamy liquid. Sprinkle burrata over tomatoes and drizzle with creamy liquid. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and serve immediately.
FRESH TOMATO SOUP WITH BASIL
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 2 hours
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We thought we knew tomato soup: velvety smooth, creamy, and comforting—perfect for a cold winter day. But there’s another kind of tomato soup: made without cream and bursting with fresh tomato essence. Usually flavored with onions, garlic, and basil, it’s the perfect way to use a surplus of ripe summer tomatoes. We concentrated the tomato flavor and evaporated excess moisture by roasting the tomatoes, then pureed them in a blender. We salted our reserved chopped tomatoes to soften their texture and added them at the end of cooking, boosting the fresh tomato flavor. The success of this recipe depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes.
6 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored (5 pounds quartered, 1 pound cut into ½-inch pieces)
2 onions, chopped
9 garlic cloves, peeled (8 whole, 1 minced)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Sugar
1 cup chopped fresh basil
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine quartered tomatoes, onions, whole garlic cloves, oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon sugar in large roasting pan. Roast until tomatoes are brown in spots, about 1½ hours, stirring halfway through roasting. Let tomato mixture cool slightly.
2. Meanwhile, combine diced tomatoes, minced garlic, basil, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl and let sit for 30 minutes. Working in batches, process roasted tomato mixture in food processor until smooth; transfer to large saucepan. Stir in diced tomato mixture and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cook until diced tomatoes are slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and sugar to taste. Serve.
CREAMY GAZPACHO ANDALUZ
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 30 minutes (plus 1 hour draining time and 2 hours chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Open nearly any refrigerator in Spain in the summertime and you’ll find a pitcher of refreshing gazpacho. The key to fresh tomato flavor in our gazpacho Andaluz recipe was salting the tomatoes and letting them sit to concentrate flavor. We did the same with the cucumber, bell pepper, and red onion and soaked the bread, which we used to thicken the soup, in the exuded vegetable juices. A final dash of olive oil and sherry vinegar further brightened the flavors, and a diced-vegetable garnish made our gazpacho Andaluz look as fresh as it tasted. The success of this recipe depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes. For fullest flavor, refrigerate the gazpacho overnight before serving. Red wine vinegar can be substituted for the sherry vinegar.
3 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored
1 small cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, and seeded
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, halved, and seeded
1 small red onion, peeled and halved
2 garlic cloves, peeled and quartered
1 small serrano chile, stemmed and halved lengthwise
Salt and pepper
1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, crust removed, torn into 1-inch pieces
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, plus extra for serving
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, chives, or basil
1. Coarsely chop 2 pounds tomatoes, half of cucumber, half of bell pepper, and half of onion and place in large bowl. Add garlic, serrano, and ¾ teaspoon salt and toss to combine.
2. Cut remaining tomatoes, cucumber, and bell pepper into ¼-inch pieces and place in medium bowl. Finely chop remaining onion and add to vegetables. Toss with ¼ teaspoon salt and transfer to fine-mesh strainer set over medium bowl. Let drain for 1 hour. Transfer drained vegetables to second medium bowl and set aside, reserving liquid (you should have about ¼ cup liquid. Discard any extra liquid).
3. Add bread to reserved liquid and soak for 1 minute. Add soaked bread and any remaining liquid to coarsely chopped vegetables and toss thoroughly to combine.
4. Transfer half of vegetable-bread mixture to blender and process for 30 seconds. With blender running, slowly drizzle in ¼ cup oil in steady stream and continue to process until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. Strain soup through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl, using back of ladle or rubber spatula to press soup through strainer; discard remaining solids. Repeat with remaining vegetable-bread mixture and remaining ¼ cup oil.
5. Stir vinegar, parsley, and half of drained vegetables into soup and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until chilled and flavors meld, about 2 hours. Serve, passing remaining drained vegetables, extra oil, extra vinegar, and pepper separately.
PASTA WITH TOMATO AND ALMOND PESTO
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS There’s a very different kind of pesto found in the western Sicilian village of Trapani. Almonds replace pine nuts, but the big difference is the appearance of fresh tomatoes—not as the main ingredient, but as a fruity, sweet accent. We wanted a recipe for a clean, bright version of this sauce, not a chunky tomato salsa or thin, watery slush. For this uncooked sauce, fresh tomatoes were best. Cherry and grape tomatoes proved equal contenders, sharing a similar brightness and juiciness that were far more reliable than those of their larger cousins. We processed the tomatoes with a handful of basil, garlic, and toasted almonds. The almonds contributed body and thickened the sauce while retaining just enough crunch to offset the tomatoes’ pulpiness; using blanched, slivered almonds avoided the muddy flavor often contributed by the nuts’ papery skins. We added a scant amount of hot vinegar peppers for zing, then drizzled in olive oil in a slow, steady stream to emulsify the pesto. Stirred-in Parmesan was the finishing touch to this light, bright, and texturally satisfying pesto. While we prefer linguini or spaghetti, any pasta shape will work here. You can substitute ½ teaspoon of red wine vinegar and ¼ teaspoon of red pepper flakes for the pepperoncini.
1 pound linguini or spaghetti
Salt
12 ounces cherry or grape tomatoes
½ cup fresh basil leaves
¼ cup slivered almonds, toasted
1 small jarred pepperoncini, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 garlic clove, minced
Pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup), plus extra for serving
1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.
2. Meanwhile, process tomatoes, basil, almonds, pepperoncini, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes, if using, in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly drizzle in oil until incorporated, about 30 seconds.
3. Add pesto and Parmesan to pasta and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately, passing extra Parmesan separately.
FRITTATA WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, MOZZARELLA, AND BASIL
Serves 4
Total time: 20 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The intensely potent, sweet-tart flavor of sun-dried tomatoes in oil infuses this frittata, which makes a great anytime meal. Easy-to-make frittatas are the Italian version of the filled omelet. Whereas an omelet should be soft, delicate, and slightly runny, a frittata should be tender but firm throughout. And whereas an omelet usually encases its filling, a frittata incorporates it evenly throughout, like an egg pie. Our testing found that starting the frittata on the stovetop and finishing it in the oven set it evenly while ensuring that it didn’t burn or dry out. Conventional skillets required so much oil to prevent sticking that frittatas cooked in them were likely to be greasy, so we used a nonstick pan for a clean release without using too much oil. You will need a 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet for this recipe.
6 large eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded (½ cup)
¼ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, patted dry and chopped fine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ onion, chopped fine
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk eggs, salt, and pepper in large bowl until thoroughly combined. Stir in mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil.
2. Heat oil in 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add egg mixture and stir gently until eggs on bottom are set and firm, about 30 seconds.
3. Using spatula, gently pull cooked eggs back from edge of skillet and tilt pan, allowing any uncooked egg to run to cleared edge of skillet. Repeat this process, working your way around skillet, until egg on top is mostly set but still moist, 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until frittata top is set and dry to touch, about 3 minutes. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen frittata, then carefully slide it out onto serving platter. Serve.
STUFFED TOMATOES
Serves 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Stuffed tomatoes always sound elegant and delicious, but too often you end up with tasteless, mushy tomatoes and a lackluster stuffing that falls out in a wet clump. To concentrate flavor and get rid of excess moisture, we seasoned hollowed-out tomato shells with salt and sugar and let them drain. Couscous proved the best base for the filling, combined with baby spinach and Gruyère cheese. We rehydrated the couscous with the reserved tomato juice, ensuring plenty of the savory flavor we craved. A topping of panko bread crumbs—pretoasted for proper browning—mixed with more cheese added crunch and richness, and a drizzle of the cooking liquid mixed with red wine vinegar provided a piquant final touch. Look for large tomatoes, about 3 inches in diameter.
6 large tomatoes (8 to 10 ounces each)
1 tablespoon sugar
Kosher salt and pepper
4½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup panko bread crumbs
3 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (¾ cup)
1 onion, halved and sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
8 ounces (8 cups) baby spinach, chopped
1 cup couscous
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Cut top ½ inch off stem end of tomatoes and set aside. Using melon baller, scoop out tomato pulp into fine-mesh strainer set over bowl. Press on pulp with wooden spoon to extract juice, setting aside juice and discarding pulp. (You should have about ⅔ cup tomato juice. If not, add water as needed to equal ⅔ cup.)
2. Combine sugar and 1 tablespoon salt in bowl. Sprinkle each tomato cavity with 1 teaspoon sugar mixture, then turn tomatoes upside down on plate to drain for 30 minutes.
3. Combine 1½ teaspoons oil and panko in 10-inch skillet and toast over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl and let cool for 10 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup Gruyère.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add spinach, 1 handful at a time, and cook until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in couscous, lemon zest, and reserved tomato juice. Off heat, cover, and let sit until couscous has absorbed liquid, about 7 minutes. Transfer couscous mixture to bowl and stir in remaining ½ cup Gruyère. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Coat bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking dish with remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Blot tomato cavities dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Pack each tomato with couscous mixture, about ½ cup per tomato, mounding excess. Top stuffed tomatoes with 1 heaping tablespoon panko mixture. Place tomatoes in prepared dish. Season reserved tops with salt and pepper and place in empty spaces in dish.
6. Bake, uncovered, until tomatoes have softened but still hold their shape, about 20 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer to serving platter. Whisk vinegar into oil remaining in dish, then drizzle over tomatoes. Place tops on tomatoes and serve.
VARIATIONS
Stuffed Tomatoes with Currants and Pistachios
Substitute crumbled feta for Gruyère. Stir 2 tablespoons currants and 2 tablespoons chopped pistachios into cooked couscous mixture with feta.
Stuffed Tomatoes with Olives and Orange
Substitute shredded Manchego for Gruyère. Substitute ¼ teaspoon grated orange zest for lemon zest. Stir ¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped, into cooked couscous mixture with Manchego.
BEST SUMMER TOMATO GRATIN
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A summer tomato gratin should burst with concentrated, bright tomato flavor and contrasting firm texture from the bread, but most recipes lead to mushy results. Starting our gratin on the stovetop initiated the breakdown of the tomatoes, drove off some moisture that would otherwise have sogged out the bread, and shortened the overall cooking time. We finished the dish in the dry, even heat of the oven. Toasting large cubes of a crusty artisan-style baguette ensured that the bread didn’t get too soggy once combined with the tomatoes. After toasting the bread, we added the coarsely chopped tomatoes as well as garlic, a small amount of sugar, and salt and pepper. Just before moving the skillet to the oven, we folded in most of the toasted bread and scattered the remainder over the top along with some Parmesan to create a crusty, savory topping that contrasted with the custardy interior. A scattering of fresh basil provided color and bright flavor. The success of this recipe depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes. Do not use plum tomatoes, which contain less juice than regular round tomatoes and will result in a dry gratin. You can serve the gratin hot, warm, or at room temperature. You will need a 12-inch ovensafe skillet for this recipe.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 ounces crusty baguette, cut into ¾-inch pieces (4 cups)
3 garlic cloves, sliced thin
3 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into ¾-inch pieces
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat ¼ cup oil in 12-inch oven-safe skillet over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add bread and stir to coat. Cook, stirring constantly, until bread is browned and toasted, about 5 minutes; transfer to bowl.
2. Cook remaining 2 tablespoons oil and garlic in now-empty skillet over low heat, stirring constantly, until garlic is golden at edges, 30 to 60 seconds. Stir in tomatoes, sugar, salt, and pepper. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes have started to break down and have released enough juice to be mostly submerged, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Off heat, gently stir in 3 cups bread until completely moistened and evenly distributed. Using spatula, press down on bread until completely submerged. Arrange remaining 1 cup bread evenly over surface, pressing to partially submerge. Sprinkle evenly with Parmesan.
4. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until top of gratin is deeply browned, tomatoes are bubbling, and juice has reduced, 40 to 45 minutes. After 30 minutes, run spatula around edge of skillet to loosen crust and release any juice underneath. (Gratin will appear loose and jiggle around outer edges but will thicken as it cools.)
5. Remove skillet from oven and let sit for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and serve.
GRILLED PORK SKEWERS WITH GRILLED TOMATO RELISH
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 50 minutes (plus 30 minutes marinating time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Grill-charred tomatoes, scallions, and lemons make a quick relish that explodes with pungent, sweet-tart flavors. Best of all, these items cook on the grill right alongside the pork skewers. Compared with beef and chicken, pork skewers get little love from grillers. Without the right ingredients and techniques, both the texture and the flavor of the meat tend to be unsatisfactory. For moist, flavorful pork, we turned to boneless country-style ribs, which are quick-cooking and tender yet have enough fat to keep them from drying out. A flavorful spice rub of garlic, coriander, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, and lemon did triple duty: first in a marinade, later in a basting sauce, and again as part of the tomato relish. These skewers offer an easy, flavorful addition to your grilling options for any night of the week. You will need seven 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 lemons (1 grated to yield 1 teaspoon zest), halved
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 pounds boneless country-style pork ribs, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
12 ounces cherry tomatoes
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 scallions
1. Whisk oil, lemon zest, garlic, coriander, cumin, 1½ teaspoons salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon together in large bowl. Measure out and reserve 2 tablespoons marinade. Add pork to remaining marinade and toss to coat; refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.
2. Remove pork from marinade and thread onto four 12-inch metal skewers so pieces are touching; discard any remaining used marinade. Thread tomatoes onto three 12-inch metal skewers.
3. Combine honey, butter, and reserved marinade in small saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until butter is melted and mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute. Divide honey mixture evenly between 2 bowls. (Use 1 bowl for grilling pork in step 5 and second bowl for sauce in step 6.)
4a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place scallions, pork skewers, tomato skewers, and lemon halves, cut side down, on grill. Cook pork (covered if using gas), turning every 2 minutes and basting with honey mixture reserved for grilling, until pork registers 145 degrees, 12 to 15 minutes. Cook tomatoes, scallions, and lemon halves until charred, turning scallions and tomatoes as needed to brown evenly, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer items to serving platter as they finish grilling.
6. Tent pork with aluminum foil and let rest while preparing tomato relish. Slide tomatoes from skewers into large bowl. Chop scallions and add to tomatoes along with honey mixture reserved for sauce; squeeze lemon halves into tomato mixture. Using potato masher, coarsely mash tomato mixture. Add any accumulated pork juices. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve tomato relish with pork.
THIN-CRUST PIZZA
Makes two 13-inch pizzas
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes (plus 24 hours refrigeration time and 1 hour resting time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS New York pizza parlor–style pizza is truly a thing of beauty: marinara-style tomato sauce and a mozz-Parm topping blanketing a thin, crisp crust that’s spottily charred on the exterior and tender and chewy within. But with ovens that reach only 500 degrees and dough that’s impossible to stretch thin, even the savviest home cooks can struggle to produce parlor-quality pizza. We were determined to make it happen. High-protein bread flour gave us a chewy crust, and the right ratio of flour to water to yeast gave us dough that was easy to stretch. We kneaded the dough quickly in a food processor and let it proof for a few hours. After we shaped and topped the pizza, it went onto a blazing-hot baking stone. Placing the stone near the top of the oven was a revelation, allowing the top of the pizza to brown as well as the bottom. In minutes we had a pizza with everything in sync: a crisp, browned crust with a slightly chewy texture, just like a good parlor slice. Our favorite bread flour is from King Arthur. Some baking stones can crack under the intense heat of the broiler; be sure to check the manufacturer’s website. It is important to use ice water in the dough to prevent it from overheating in the food processor. Don’t top the second pizza until right before you bake it. If you add more toppings, keep them light or they may weigh down the thin crust. This recipe yields extra sauce; the remaining sauce can be refrigerated for up to one week or frozen for up to one month.
DOUGH
3 cups (16½ ounces) bread flour
2 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
1⅓ cups ice water
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons salt
SAUCE
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated fine (½ cup)
8 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, shredded (2 cups)
1. For the dough Pulse flour, sugar, and yeast in food processor until combined, about 5 pulses. With processor running, slowly add ice water and process until dough is just combined and no dry flour remains, about 10 seconds. Let dough rest for 10 minutes.
2. Add oil and salt to dough and process until dough forms satiny, sticky ball that clears sides of bowl, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer dough to lightly oiled counter and knead by hand to form smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 3 days.
3. For the sauce Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.
4. To bake the pizza Press down on dough to deflate. Transfer dough to clean counter, divide in half, and cover loosely with greased plastic. Pat 1 piece of dough into 4-inch round (keep remaining piece covered). Working around circumference of dough, fold edges toward center until ball forms.
5. Flip ball seam side down and, using your cupped hands, drag in small circles on counter until dough feels taut and round and all seams are secured on underside. (If dough sticks to your hands, lightly dust top of dough with flour.) Repeat with remaining piece of dough. Space dough balls 3 inches apart, cover loosely with greased plastic, and let rest for 1 hour. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element, set baking stone on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees for 1 hour.
6. When ready to bake, heat broiler for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, coat 1 dough ball generously with flour and place on well-floured counter. Using your fingertips, gently flatten into 8-inch round, leaving 1 inch of outer edge slightly thicker than center. Using your hands, gently stretch dough into 12-inch round, working along edge and giving disk quarter turns.
7. Transfer dough to well-floured pizza peel and stretch into 13-inch round. Using back of spoon or ladle, spread ½ cup tomato sauce in even layer over surface of dough, leaving ¼-inch border around edge. Sprinkle ¼ cup Parmesan evenly over sauce, followed by 1 cup mozzarella.
8. Slide pizza carefully onto baking stone and return oven to 500 degrees. Bake until crust is well browned and cheese is bubbly and partially browned, 8 to 10 minutes, rotating pizza halfway through baking. Transfer pizza to wire rack and let cool for 5 minutes before slicing and serving. Heat broiler for 10 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough, sauce, and toppings, returning oven to 500 degrees when each pizza is placed on stone.