Along with corn and beans, squash was historically one of the three primary crops of the Americas known by the Iroquois as the “three sisters.” Not only did these foodstuffs grow together symbiotically, but together they provided a complete balance of carbohydrates, protein, and vitamins. Native Americans of all tribes were eating winter squash for centuries before Europeans arrived; the word “squash” derives from the Narragansett word askutasquash.
Winter squashes vary greatly in size, color, and shape but often can be substituted for each other in recipes. For a primer on the most common types found in markets, see the opposite page. In this chapter, we focus on four test-kitchen favorites.
The mild, earthy taste of ACORN SQUASH lends itself to bold flavorings, which we provide in spades in our Stuffed Acorn Squash with raisins, onions, and spinach. Versatile BUTTERNUT SQUASH can be turned into a puree or a soup, roasted in chunks with all sorts of flavor combinations, and even transformed into pillow-like, pasta-free dumplings called gnudi.
Somewhat resembling its summer cousins in appearance, DELICATA SQUASH tastes like a happy cross between fresh corn and pumpkin pie. Drizzling roasted half-moons with a fresh herb sauce makes for a simple but elegant presentation.
Looking at the yellow, oblong SPAGHETTI SQUASH, you would never know that nestled inside are hundreds of noodle-like strands that resemble spaghetti. Only the name gives it away. It does make an excellent stand-in for pasta in recipes both hot and cold, as we prove in our Spaghetti Squash with Garlic and Parmesan and our Spaghetti Squash Salad with Tomatoes and Pecorino.
shopping and storage
Fall is the usual harvest time for winter squash. But because it keeps so well, winter squash is typically available year-round. No matter the variety, winter squash should feel very hard; any soft spots are an indication that the squash has been mishandled. Squash should also feel heavy for its size, a sign that the flesh inside is moist and ripe. Store winter squash at cool room temperature, away from light, for up to a month.
is packaged squash acceptable?
Cutting, peeling, and seeding winter squash is time-consuming and even intimidating. We wondered if we could use convenient packages of peeled cut squash in dishes like our Butternut Squash Puree with Sage and Toasted Almonds and our Barley Risotto with Roasted Butternut Squash. In a word, no. Prepared packaged squash is usually dried out, woody, and lacking in flavor. Whole squash that you peel yourself has far superior texture and taste.
all about winter squash
Acorn squash Acorn squash is one of the most ubiquitous winter squashes found in supermarkets. The orange flesh of this dark green acorn-shaped squash has a dense texture and mild flavor.
BUTTERCUP SQUASH A flattened rounded green squash with pale green stripes and a circular ridge on the bottom, buttercup squash has flesh that is on the drier side and very mild in flavor.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH Butternut squash is immediately recognizable by its bell shape. Beneath the tan skin lies moist, bright orange flesh with a sweet taste.
DELICATA SQUASH Oblong and pale yellow with green stripes, delicata has thin, edible skin and creamy flesh is more earthy than sweet in flavor.
HUBBARD SQUASH Typically huge and bumpy and precut into chunks, these gray-blue squashes are increasingly available whole in more manageable sizes. They have lightly sweet and moist orange flesh. Red kuri is a small orange-skinned variety.
KABOCHA SQUASH Kabocha is somewhat similar in size and shape to buttercup. The green variety is slightly sweet in flavor, with nutty, earthy notes. The red variety is noticeably sweeter than the green.
SPAGHETTI SQUASH Spaghetti squash has pale, translucent flesh that scrapes into noodle-like strands when cooked. It has a delicate, grassy, flavor that’s fresher than that of other winter squashes.
SUGAR PUMPKINS More than just Halloween decorations, these small, squat squashes have thick-textured orange flesh that’s packed with classic pumpkin flavor.
SWEET DUMPLING SQUASH This small squash has edible yellowish white skin with green stripes. Its flesh is similar in texture and flavor to sweet potato.
vegetable prep
Winter squashes have tough skins and can therefore be difficult to cut through. To cut squash safely, set squash on damp dish towel, position knife on rind of squash, and strike back of knife with rubber mallet to drive knife into squash. Continue to hit until knife halves squash.
1. Lop ends off squash, peel away skin and fibrous white flesh with vegetable peeler, and use chef’s knife to cut it into 2 pieces where bulb meets neck.
2. Halve bulb end, then scoop out and discard seeds and pulp. Chop as recipe directs.
Holding roasted squash half with clean dish towel over large bowl, use fork to scrape squash flesh from skin, shredding flesh into fine pieces.
MAPLE-GLAZED ACORN SQUASH
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The earthy flavor of acorn squash is beautifully highlighted by a sweet maple glaze. But most recipes for maple-glazed squash just halve the squash, pour on some syrup, top with a pat of butter, and roast, which results in a thin pool of buttery syrup at the bottom of each half. We wanted every bite of our roasted squash to be coated with a deeply flavored maple glaze. So we started by cutting the squash into eighths, so that the increased surface area would provide room for ample amounts of glaze. While this was more efficient, it also meant the squash cooked so quickly that it was barely browning. To remedy this, we tossed the squash wedges with vegetable oil and a small amount of granulated sugar before roasting them in a hot oven, then flipped them before glazing so that both sides had time to brown. This approach boosted caramelization, achieving the desired deep brown color and rich flavor. We reduced the maple syrup only slightly and then painted both sides with the glaze. We recommend using real maple syrup in this recipe.
2 acorn squashes (1½ pounds each), halved pole to pole and seeded
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
5 tablespoons maple syrup
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Cut each squash half into 4 wedges. Toss squash, oil, sugar, salt, and pepper in large bowl to coat, then arrange cut side down in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Bake until bottoms of squash are deep golden brown, about 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, bring maple syrup to boil in small saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Off heat, whisk in butter and cayenne until smooth. Cover and keep warm.
3. When bottoms of squash are deep golden, remove from oven. Flip and brush with 6 tablespoons glaze. Return to oven and bake until squash is tender and deep golden all over, about 15 minutes. Flip and brush with remaining glaze. Serve.
STUFFED ACORN SQUASH
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Stuffing and roasting an acorn squash the traditional way can take hours, but our impressive version is ready in a fraction of the time without compromising on either flavor or texture. Our solution was to microwave the squash, which takes about 15 minutes, and make our filling in the meantime. While couscous cooked off the heat, we sautéed garlic and onion, then cooked baby spinach until it wilted, folding this mixture into the couscous along with pine nuts and Pecorino Romano cheese. Golden raisins brought a touch of sweetness that complemented the squash. To finish, we just needed a sprinkle of additional cheese and a few minutes under the broiler. Be sure to look for similar-size squash (1½ pounds each) to ensure even cooking. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil, then measure out the desired amount.
2 acorn squashes (1½ pounds each), halved pole to pole and seeded
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup couscous
½ cup golden raisins
Salt and pepper
1 cup boiling water
1 onion, chopped fine
4 garlic cloves, minced
6 ounces (6 cups) baby spinach
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
1½ ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (¾ cup)
1. Brush cut side of squash with 1 tablespoon oil and place, cut side down, on large plate. Microwave, covered, until tender and soft, 12 to 16 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine couscous, raisins, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon oil in medium bowl. Stir in boiling water, cover tightly, and let sit until liquid is absorbed and couscous is tender, about 5 minutes. Fluff couscous with fork.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in spinach and cook until wilted and most of liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in couscous mixture, pine nuts, and ½ cup Pecorino. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Adjust oven rack 8 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Transfer squash, cut side up, to rimmed baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Mound couscous mixture into squash, pack lightly with back of spoon, and sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Pecorino.
5. Broil until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve.
ROASTED DELICATA SQUASH
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Delicata is the easiest winter squash to cook because its prettily striated skin is so thin that it doesn’t need to be peeled before cooking and eating. Roasting intensifies delicata squash’s mildly sweet and earthy flavors, so here we simply sliced the squash into half-moons and roasted the pieces on a baking sheet with a combination of olive oil and butter until tender and golden brown. A bright sauce made with fresh herbs, garlic, and sherry vinegar lent a bold, contrasting flavor punch without overshadowing our star vegetable. To ensure even cooking, choose squashes that are similar in size and shape.
HERB SAUCE
¼ cup minced fresh parsley or chives
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon salt
SQUASH
3 delicata squashes (12 to 16 ounces each), ends trimmed, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise ½-inch thick
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1. For the sauce Stir all ingredients together in bowl; set aside for serving.
2. For the squash Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss squash, oil, and salt in bowl to coat. Arrange squash in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake until squash is tender when pierced with tip of paring knife, 18 to 20 minutes.
2. Uncover and continue to bake until side touching baking sheet is golden brown, 8 to 11 minutes. Remove squash from oven and using thin metal spatula, flip slices over. Scatter butter pieces over squash. Return to oven and continue to bake until side touching baking sheet is golden brown, 8 to 11 minutes. Transfer squash to serving platter and drizzle with herb sauce. Serve.
SPAGHETTI SQUASH WITH GARLIC AND PARMESAN
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The delicate flavor and noodle-y texture of spaghetti squash make it a great addition to any meal, but many recipes bury the squash underneath a heavy sauce with too many competing flavors. We kept our recipe simple so that the unique flavor and texture of the squash would shine through. Brushing the squash halves with oil, seasoning them with salt and pepper, and roasting them cut side down brought out the sweetness of the flesh. Once the squash was cooked, shredding it was as simple as holding the halves over a bowl and scraping them with a fork. After draining the excess liquid, we dressed the squash with Parmesan, fresh basil, lemon juice, and garlic for an easy, flavorful side dish that tasted like summer.
1 (2½ pound) spaghetti squash, halved lengthwise and seeded
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Brush cut sides of squash with 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper. Place squash, cut side down, on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until squash is tender when pierced with tip of paring knife, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Flip squash over and let cool slightly. Holding squash with clean dish towel over large bowl, use fork to scrape squash flesh from skin while shredding it into fine pieces, discarding skin.
3. Drain excess liquid from bowl, then gently stir in Parmesan, basil, lemon juice, garlic, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
VARIATION
Spaghetti Squash with Asian Flavors
Omit Parmesan, basil, lemon juice, garlic, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil in step 3. Toss shredded squash with 2 thinly sliced scallions, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2½ teaspoons vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon rice vinegar, ½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil, and ½ teaspoon toasted sesame seeds before serving.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH PUREE WITH SAGE AND TOASTED ALMONDS
Serves 8 to 10
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its silky texture and earthy, lightly sweet flavor, pureed butternut squash is a crowd-pleasing cool-weather side dish. Most recipes for pureed squash are similar in that they call for cooking the squash until tender and then pureeing it with some butter and/or heavy cream in a food processor. We pitted four butternut squash cooking methods against one another: roasting, steaming, braising, and microwaving. Roasting took more than an hour, while steaming and braising washed away some of the distinct squash flavor. Microwaving, in addition to being one of the easiest and fastest cooking methods, won tasters over for producing a clean, sweet squash flavor. We found that microwaving peeled chunks, rather than halves or whole squash, resulted in even cooking. Squash cooked this way needed only a small amount of dairy to add some complexity. We found the ideal additions to be butter and half-and-half; the combination added richness without overpowering the squash flavor. Infusing the butter with sage and topping the puree with toasted almonds elevated this side dish. You can substitute delicata squash for the butternut squash; for a smoother puree, peel the delicata squash.
4 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch pieces (10 cups)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
¼ cup half-and-half
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, plus extra for seasoning
Salt and pepper
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted
1. Place squash in large bowl. Microwave, covered, until tender and easily pierced with tip of paring knife, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving.
2. Meanwhile, melt butter in 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add sage and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes; set aside.
3. Uncover squash, being careful of steam, and drain in colander. Process drained squash, sage butter, half-and-half, sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth, about 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Sprinkle with almonds and serve.
VARIATION
Butternut Squash Puree with Orange
Omit sage and almonds. Skip step 2. Add 2 tablespoons orange marmalade to food processor with butter in step 3.
SLOW-COOKER BUTTERNUT SQUASH PUREE
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Especially at holiday time, having a foolproof slow-cooker method for squash can be a lifesaver. Since the flavor of butternut squash is delicate, our goal was to bump it up so it would taste great even after hours in the slow cooker. First we tried cooking the squash in water to cover, but this left us with a bland, watery puree. Since the squash exuded a lot of moisture during cooking, we thought we could take down the amount of water dramatically. In the end, it took only a bare minimum—½ cup—to properly braise the squash. Even this small amount of water, however, seemed to be diluting the squash flavor significantly. We considered alternative braising liquids and settled on apple cider, which accented the squash’s inherent sweetness and added a brightness that tasters loved. A small amount of heavy cream and some butter added richness to round out the flavors. This recipe can easily be doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
3 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces (8 cups)
½ cup apple cider, plus extra as needed
Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons heavy cream, warmed
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, plus extra for seasoning
1. Combine squash, cider, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto squash, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until squash is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Using potato masher, mash squash until smooth. Stir in melted butter, cream, and sugar. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Serve. (Squash can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours. Adjust consistency with extra hot cider as needed before serving.)
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH WITH BROWNED BUTTER AND HAZELNUTS
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS You may not immediately recognize this dish and its variations as the familiar roasted butternut squash, but actually, that’s the point. A recipe in London-based chef Yotam Ottolenghi’s book Plenty introduced us to an alternative squash universe. He roasts thin skin-on half-moons of squash and then tosses them with savory ingredients, from chiles and lime to toasted nuts and spiced yogurt, which serve as a surprisingly successful foil to the squash’s natural sweetness. We decided to bring this approach into the test kitchen and put our own spin on it. Tasters were equally smitten with Ottolenghi’s approach, but they also had a few suggestions. So our first move was to lose both the skin and the white layer of flesh underneath, both of which tasters found unappealing. (We could have bought prepeeled squash, but we’ve found that the flavor of whole squash that you peel yourself is superior.) To achieve deeper caramelization on the squash slices, we positioned the baking sheet on the lowest oven rack, where it would absorb more heat from the main heating element on the oven’s floor. We then flipped the squash (and rotated the baking sheet) partway through roasting so that both sides could caramelize. Melted butter produced better browning than olive oil, thanks to its milk proteins that undergo the Maillard reaction, leading to more complex flavors and aromas. These slices emerged perfectly caramelized, wonderfully sweet, and tender. The crowning touch was to come up with a few toppings that provided a mix of contrasting textures and bold flavors.
SQUASH
1 large (2½- to 3-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and sliced crosswise ½ inch thick
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
TOPPING
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces
⅓ cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Pinch salt
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1. For the squash Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss squash with melted butter, salt, and pepper in bowl to coat. Arrange squash in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Roast squash until side touching sheet toward back of oven is well browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Rotate sheet and continue to bake until side touching sheet toward back of oven is well browned, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove squash from oven and use metal spatula to flip each piece. Return to oven and roast until squash is very tender and side touching sheet is browned, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. For the topping While squash roasts, melt butter with hazelnuts in 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until butter and hazelnuts are brown and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Immediately remove skillet from heat and stir in water (butter will foam and sizzle). Let cool for 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and salt.
3. Transfer squash to large serving platter. Drizzle butter mixture evenly over squash. Sprinkle with chives. Serve warm or at room temperature.
VARIATIONS
Roasted Butternut Squash with Radicchio and Parmesan
Omit topping. Whisk 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, ½ teaspoon mayonnaise, and pinch salt together in small bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil until combined. Before serving, drizzle vinaigrette over squash and sprinkle with ½ cup coarsely shredded radicchio, ½ ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved into thin strips, and 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts.
Roasted Butternut Squash with Tahini and Feta
Omit topping. Whisk 1 tablespoon tahini, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, 1½ teaspoons lemon juice, 1 teaspoon honey, and pinch salt together in small bowl. Before serving, drizzle tahini mixture over squash and sprinkle with ¼ cup finely crumbled feta cheese, ¼ cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped fine, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint.
Roasted Butternut Squash with Yogurt and Sesame Seeds
Omit topping. Whisk 3 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt, 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, 4 teaspoons water, and pinch salt together in small bowl. Combine 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, 1 teaspoon toasted and crushed coriander seeds, ¼ teaspoon dried thyme, and pinch salt in second small bowl. Before serving, drizzle yogurt mixture over squash, sprinkle with sesame seed mixture and ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves.
SPAGHETTI SQUASH SALAD WITH TOMATOES AND PECORINO
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour (plus 1 hour cooling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Too often, spaghetti squash is positioned as a vegetable alternative to pasta and treated in a way that obscures its flavor. We wanted to meet this squash on its own merits and create an unexpected, fresh-tasting, room-temperature salad that would highlight its grassy, nutty sweetness. With this direction in mind, we zeroed in on roasting as the best cooking method. We cut the squash in half lengthwise, removed the seeds, positioned it cut side down on a baking sheet (to maximize browning), and roasted it in a 375-degree oven. This resulted in soft, non-soggy strings of squash with just a hint of caramelization. The strands were tender but firm enough to hold their shape, and the delicate but distinct nutty, squashy flavor stood out, all of which made for a fine base with which to build a salad. We tossed our cooked squash with a bright lemony vinaigrette, halved grape tomatoes, fresh basil, and Pecorino Romano cheese, and liked the results so much that we came up with two variations to take advantage of this way to prepare spaghetti squash.
1 (2½-pound) spaghetti squash, halved lengthwise and seeded
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
Salt and pepper
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest plus 7 teaspoons juice
3 ounces grape tomatoes, halved
1 ounce Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (½ cup)
¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves
1 shallot, sliced thin
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Brush cut sides of squash with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Place squash, cut side down, on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until squash is tender when pierced with tip of paring knife, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer squash to wire rack, cut side up, and let cool completely, about 1 hour.
2. Combine lemon zest and juice, remaining ¼ cup oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Holding squash over bowl, use fork to scrape flesh from skin into strands, discarding skin.
3. Add tomatoes to bowl with squash and toss gently to coat. Transfer to serving platter and sprinkle with Pecorino, basil, shallot, and pine nuts. Drizzle with extra oil before serving.
VARIATIONS
Spaghetti Squash Salad with Chickpeas and Feta
Substitute 1 can rinsed chickpeas for tomatoes. Substitute ½ cup crumbled feta for Pecorino. Substitute ½ cup coarsely chopped parsley for basil. Substitute 4 thinly sliced scallions for shallot. Substitute 2 tablespoons toasted and chopped pistachios for pine nuts.
Spaghetti Squash Salad with Radishes and Queso Fresco
Substitute 4 halved and thinly sliced radishes for tomatoes. Substitute ½ cup crumbled queso fresco for Pecorino. Substitute ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves for basil. Substitute ¼ cup thinly sliced red onion for shallot. Substitute 2 tablespoons pepitas for pine nuts.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH SAGE PESTO
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This hearty version of butternut squash soup can stand on its own as a meal. Instead of the usual creamy, rich pureed style of butternut squash soup, we opted to feature chunks of squash paired with creamy cannellini beans to give our soup some heft. Because the bulb portion of the squash is difficult to cut into cubes that will cook evenly, and because it naturally cooks faster than the dense neck portion, we cut the bulb into wedges, cooked them in the broth until they were soft, and then mashed them to make a “squash stock” that gave our soup base body and flavor. We then cooked the neck portion, cut into chunks, in this stock. Adding butter to the stock at the start of its simmering time allowed it to fully emulsify, giving the soup base richness and a more velvety texture. A swirl of sage pesto, which we quickly made in the food processor, lent just the right bright, fresh finish.
PESTO
½ cup walnuts, toasted
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup fresh parsley leaves
½ cup fresh sage leaves
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup), plus extra for serving
Salt and pepper
SOUP
1 (2- to 2½-pound) butternut squash, peeled
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
3 cups water
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 pound leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, minced
Salt and pepper
3 (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1. For the pesto Pulse walnuts and garlic in food processor until coarsely chopped, about 5 pulses. Add parsley and sage. With processor running, slowly add oil until incorporated. Transfer to bowl, stir in Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside.
2. For the soup Cut round bulb section off squash and cut in half lengthwise. Discard seeds, then cut each half into 4 wedges.
3. Bring squash wedges, broth, water, butter, and soy sauce to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, partially cover, and simmer vigorously until squash is very tender and starting to fall apart, about 20 minutes. Remove pot from heat and use potato masher to mash squash, still in broth, until completely broken down. Cover to keep warm; set aside.
4. While broth cooks, cut neck of squash into ½-inch pieces. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add leeks and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened and tomato paste is darkened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add squash pieces, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add squash broth and bring to simmer. Partially cover and cook for 10 minutes.
5. Add beans and their liquid, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is just tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing pesto and extra Parmesan separately.
BARLEY RISOTTO WITH ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH
Serves 8
Total time: 2 hours
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this hearty cold-weather side dish or main course, sweet roasted butternut squash is paired with nutty, chewy barley, sage, and Parmesan. Barley is sold in several forms, but in the test kitchen we prefer pearl barley, which has been hulled and polished. With the bran removed, the texture of the cooked grain is pleasantly springy. Also, the grain’s starchy interior is exposed, which creates a supple, velvety sauce when simmered. Barley requires more liquid and more time to cook than the usual Arborio rice, but we have found that barley takes well to a modified version of our risotto method. We started traditionally by sautéing aromatics, toasting the grain, and simmering the mixture with wine. We then bucked the tradition of adding hot liquid in small intervals and poured in 3 cups of it at once, allowing the barley to simmer and only giving it the occasional stir. The simmering action agitated the barley enough that it released its starch, making constant stirring unnecessary. Once the barley had absorbed the broth, we added 2 more cups of liquid and continued to simmer. After the grains absorbed that liquid, we gradually added more, stirring constantly, until the barley cooked through. We added half of our squash to the simmering barley to break down and thicken, and then stirred in the remaining squash pieces right before serving.
1½ cups pearl barley
2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces (6 cups)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
4 cups water
1 onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup dry white wine
1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Rinse barley in fine-mesh strainer under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain briefly. Spread grains on rimmed baking sheet lined with clean dish towel. Let dry for 15 minutes.
2. Line second rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss squash with 2 teaspoons oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in bowl to coat. Spread squash over prepared sheet. Roast until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes; set aside.
3. Meanwhile, bring broth and water to simmer in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to lowest possible setting and cover to keep warm.
4. Cook remaining 1 teaspoon oil and onion, covered, in large saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in barley and increase heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until lightly toasted and aromatic, about 4 minutes. Stir in wine and continue to cook, stirring often, until wine has been completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.
5. Stir in 3 cups warm broth mixture and half of roasted squash. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed and bottom of pan is dry, 22 to 25 minutes. Stir in 2 cups warm broth mixture and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed and bottom of pan is dry, 15 to 18 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring often and adding remaining broth, ½ cup at a time, as needed to keep pan bottom from becoming dry (about every 4 minutes). Continue to add broth until barley is cooked through and still somewhat firm in center, 15 to 20 minutes.
6. Off heat, stir in Parmesan, butter, sage, nutmeg, and remaining squash. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH GNUDI WITH KALE, PARMESAN, AND PEPITAS
Serves 4
Total time: 2 hours (plus 1 hour chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Gnudi are gnocchi-like dumplings that are traditionally made with strained ricotta and nothing more than a light dusting of semolina flour—essentially a ravioli filling minus the pasta. The result is something much more cloud-like and ethereal than gnocchi. In this version, we used butternut squash instead of ricotta to create the ultimate fall dish, with wilted kale, Parmesan, and pumpkin seeds. The challenge in trying to make these dumplings was getting them to hold together without diluting the squash flavor with large quantities of binders such as flour and eggs. So we used a little tapioca starch and egg white powder to effectively bind water and form a stable but supertender gel. The dough was too delicate to knead and roll out, so instead we baked it in a water bath and then cut the gnudi by hand. Do not substitute raw egg whites for the egg white powder, as the extra water will ruin the texture of the gnudi. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. It may seem strange, but the dish towel raises the baking pan off the bottom of the roasting pan, preventing the gnudi from overcooking on the bottom, and also provides traction for the baking pan so it doesn’t slip when removing the roasting pan from the oven. A few gnudi will not be a perfect 1 by ¾-inch size. If you prefer, trim the whole block into a 6-inch square and then cut into 48 even pieces.
GNUDI
2½ pounds butternut squash, peeled, halved, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch pieces
1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated fine (¾ cup)
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon egg white powder
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons tapioca starch
½ teaspoon salt
KALE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 pound kale, stemmed and chopped
2 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh sage
2 tablespoons roasted, salted pepitas
Finely grated lemon zest
Parmesan cheese, shaved
1. For the gnudi Microwave squash in large bowl, covered, until tender when pierced with tip of paring knife, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Uncover squash, being careful of steam, and transfer to colander to drain; set aside to cool slightly.
2. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Line bottom of large roasting pan with dish towel, folding towel to fit smoothly; set aside. Spray 8-inch square baking pan with vegetable oil spray and line with plastic wrap, smoothing bottom.
3. Measure out 3 cups cooked squash and place in bowl of food processor, reserving remaining squash for another use. Process squash in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add Parmesan, egg white powder, butter, tapioca starch, and salt and process until well combined, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to prepared baking pan, smooth top with spatula, and tap pan on counter to release air bubbles.
4. Cover pan tightly with aluminum foil and place in center of prepared roasting pan. Place roasting pan in oven and carefully pour boiling water into roasting pan to come halfway up sides of baking pan. Bake until center of mixture is set, no longer sticks to your fingers when gently pressed, and registers 170 to 180 degrees, 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes. Remove baking pan from water bath, discard foil, and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Refrigerate gnudi in pan until firm, about 1 hour. Carefully unmold gnudi onto cutting board, discarding plastic. Dip sharp knife in very hot water, wipe dry, and cut gnudi into 1 by ¾-inch rectangular pieces, rewetting and wiping knife clean between cuts. (You will have 50 to 60 pieces.)
5. For the kale Heat oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add kale and cook until slightly wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Add water, 2 tablespoons butter, garlic, and vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and divide among individual serving bowls.
6. Meanwhile, melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add half of gnudi and 1 tablespoon sage, cover, and cook until browned on one side, 2 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and divide gnudi evenly between 2 serving bowls. Repeat with remaining gnudi and remaining 1 tablespoon sage. Sprinkle with pepitas, lemon zest, and Parmesan and drizzle with oil. Serve.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
BUTTERNUT SQUASH GNUDI WITH KALE, PARMESAN, AND PEPITAS
Gnudi means “naked” in Italian, and these pillowy little dumplings are so named because they resemble ravioli without their pasta jackets. Traditionally gnudi are made with ricotta cheese, but we reimagined them made with butternut squash instead. With a wilted kale sauté serving as the bed for our gnudi, we think we’ve created an outstanding fall dish that’s far superior to anything pumpkin-spiced.
1. Microwave the squash in a large bowl, covered, until it’s tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Uncover the squash and transfer it to a colander to drain; let cool slightly.
2. After processing the squash and adding the Parmesan, egg white powder, butter, tapioca starch, and salt, transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, smooth the top with a spatula, and tap the pan on the counter to release air bubbles.
3. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and place in the center of the prepared roasting pan. Place the setup in the oven and carefully pour the boiling water into the roasting pan. Bake until the center of the mixture is set and registers 170 to 180 degrees, 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes.
4. Remove the baking pan from the water bath, discard the foil, let cool, and refrigerate until firm. Carefully unmold the gnudi onto a cutting board. Dip a sharp knife in hot water, wipe dry, and cut the gnudi into 1 by ¾-inch rectangular pieces, rewetting and wiping the knife clean between cuts.
5. Cook the kale in the oil until slightly wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the water, butter, garlic, and vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and divide among individual serving bowls.
6. Cook half of the gnudi and sage in the remaining butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until browned on one side, 2 to 4 minutes. Divide the gnudi evenly among the serving bowls. Repeat, and then sprinkle the gnudi with the pepitas, lemon zest, and Parmesan and drizzle with oil.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH GALETTE WITH GRUYÈRE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes (plus 1 hour 30 minutes chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This savory, flaky, rustic tart starring butternut squash and baby spinach is bound to be a favorite on any fall or winter table. In developing this recipe, we were looking for a filling that was robust and flavorful and a crust that was extra-sturdy while still being tender, moist, and flaky. To achieve that goal with a dough using whole-wheat flour, we decided to take a hands-off approach to mixing and let the flour absorb the water on its own. We thought this might allow the water to migrate to drier parts and produce pastry that was workable—but not overworked. So we gave it a shot, just barely mixing the dry and wet ingredients and then chilling the dough. After an hour, most of the dry flour had disappeared; even better, the dough was remarkably supple. To get the long, striated layers of puff pastry we were after, we dumped the rested shaggy mass onto the counter, rolled it into a rectangle, and folded it into thirds, like a business letter. We repeated the process just twice more. The result? A wonderfully flaky crust that was less apt to shatter when cut. Working with a sturdy crust, however, didn’t mean that we could throw in the vegetables—spinach and butternut squash—raw: They’d still leach far too much moisture and render the crust soggy. Fortunately, parcooking the spinach and squash separately in the microwave took only a few minutes. To introduce rich, complex flavor and not too much moisture, we added sautéed onion, a dollop of crème fraîche, Gruyère, and a splash of sherry vinegar to the vegetables just before baking. An equal amount of rye flour can be substituted for the whole-wheat flour. Cutting a few small holes in the dough prevents it from lifting off the pan as it bakes. A pizza stone helps to crisp the crust but is not essential.
DOUGH
1¼ cups (6¼ ounces) all-purpose flour
½ cup (2¾ ounces) whole-wheat flour
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled
7 tablespoons ice water
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
FILLING
6 ounces (6 cups) baby spinach
1¼ pounds butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces (3½ cups)
5 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, sliced thin
½ teaspoon minced fresh oregano
3 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (¾ cup)
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. For the dough Process all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined. Scatter chilled butter over top and pulse until butter is pea-sized, about 10 pulses; transfer to medium bowl.
2. Sprinkle ice water and vinegar over flour mixture. Using rubber spatula, fold mixture until loose, shaggy mass forms with some dry flour remaining (do not overwork). Transfer to center of large sheet of plastic wrap, press gently into rough 4-inch square, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 45 minutes.
3. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and roll into 11 by 8-inch rectangle with short side parallel to edge of counter. Using bench scraper, fold bottom third of dough away from you, then fold upper third toward you like business letter into 8 by 4-inch rectangle. Turn dough 90 degrees counterclockwise. Repeat rolling dough into 11 by 8-inch rectangle and folding into thirds. Turn dough 90 degrees counterclockwise and repeat rolling and folding into thirds. After last set of folds, fold dough in half to create 4-inch square. Press top of dough gently to seal. Wrap with plastic and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes or up to 2 days.
4. For the filling Microwave spinach and ¼ cup water in large bowl, covered, until spinach is shrunk by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove bowl from microwave and set aside, covered, for 1 minute. Transfer spinach to colander to drain. Using back of rubber spatula, gently press spinach to release excess liquid. Transfer spinach to cutting board and chop coarse. Return spinach to colander and press again with rubber spatula; set aside. Add squash to now-empty bowl and microwave, covered, until just tender, about 8 minutes; set aside.
5. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and oregano, cover, and cook, stirring frequently, until onion is tender and beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, add onion mixture to bowl with squash along with spinach, Gruyère, crème fraîche, and vinegar and stir gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
6. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place pizza stone on rack, and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove dough from refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes. Roll dough into 14-inch circle about ⅛ inch thick on well-floured counter. (Trim edges as needed to form rough circle). Transfer dough to prepared sheet. Using straw or tip of paring knife, cut five ¼-inch circles in dough (one at center and four evenly spaced halfway from center to edge of dough). Brush top of dough with 1 teaspoon oil.
7. Spread filling evenly over dough, leaving 2-inch border around edge. Drizzle remaining 1 teaspoon oil over filling. Grasp 1 edge of dough and fold outer 2 inches over filling. Repeat around circumference of tart, overlapping dough every 2 to 3 inches; gently pinch pleated dough to secure but do not press dough into filling. Brush dough with egg wash.
8. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees. Set sheet on stone and bake until crust is deep golden brown and filling is beginning to brown, 35 to 45 minutes. Let tart cool on sheet on wire rack for 10 minutes. Using offset or wide metal spatula, loosen tart from parchment and carefully slide tart onto cutting board. Sprinkle parsley over filling and cut tart into wedges. Serve.