Getting around
Central Lisbon is compact enough to explore on foot, but don’t be fooled by the apparent closeness of sights as they appear on maps. There are some very steep hills to negotiate, although the city’s quirky elevadores (funicular railways) will save you the steepest climbs. Tram, bus and elevador stops are indicated by a sign marked “paragem”, which carries route details.
Metro stations (
) are located close to most of the main sights. Suburban trains run from Rossio and Sete Rios stations to Sintra and from Cais do Sodré station to Belém, Estoril and Cascais, while ferries (
213 478 030, 
www.transtejo.pt) link Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas, for the resort of Caparica.
The metro
Lisbon’s efficient metro (Metropolitano; daily 6.30–1am; 213 500 115, www.metrolisboa.pt) is the quickest way of reaching the city’s main sights, with trains every few minutes. Tickets cost €1.45 per journey, or €1.31 with a Viva Viagem card (see below) – sold at all stations (see the inside cover and pull-out map for the network diagram).
Buses and trams
City trams and buses (daily 6.30am–midnight) are operated by Carris (213 500 115, carris.pt). Buses (autocarros) run just about everywhere in the Lisbon area – the most useful ones are outlined in the box below.
Trams (eléctricos) run on five routes, which are marked on the chapter maps. Ascending some of the steepest urban gradients in the world, most are worth taking for the ride alone, especially the cross-city tram #28. Another picturesque route is #12, which circles the castle area via Largo Martim Moniz. Other useful routes are “supertram” #15 from Praça da Figueira to Belém (signed Algés), and #18, which runs from Cais do Sodré via Praça do Comércio to the Palácio da Ajuda. The remaining route, #25, runs from near the Praça da Figueira to Campo Ourique via Santos, Lapa and Estrela.
Useful bus routes
#201 Night bus from Cais do Sodré to the docks via Santos; until 5am.
#728 Belém to Parque das Nações via Santa Apolónia station.
#737 Praça da Figueira to Castelo de São Jorge via the Sé and Alfama.
#744 Outside the airport to Marquês de Pombal via Saldanha and Picoas (for the youth hostel).
#727 Marquês de Pombal to Belém via Santos and Alcântara.
#773 Rato to Alcântara via Príncipe Real, Estrela and Lapa.
Elevadores
There are also several elevadores. These consist of two funicular railways offering quick access to the heights of the Bairro Alto and to the eastern side of Avenida da Liberdade; and one giant lift, the Elevador da Santa Justa which goes up to the foot of the Bairro Alto near Chiado. There are also free street lifts offering access to the lower edges of the Castelo de São Jorge.
Tickets and passes
On board tickets cost €1.85 (buses), €2.85 (trams) and €3.70 for elevadores (valid for two trips) and €5.15 for the Elevador da Santa Justa. You need to get a separate card for train lines to Sintra or Cascais. Note that the modern tram #15 has an automatic ticket machine on board and does not issue change.
It’s possible just to buy a ticket each time you ride, but passes, available from any main metro station, can save you money. First, buy a rechargeable Viva Viagem card (€0.50), which you can load up with up to €3–40, after which €1.31 is deducted for each bus or metro journey.
You can also buy a one-day Bilhete 1dia pass (€6.30, or €10.40 including trains to Sintra and Cascais), which allows unlimited travel on buses, trams, the metro and elevadores for 24 hours after it is first used.
If you’re planning some intensive sightseeing, the Cartão Lisboa (www.lisboacard.org; €19 for one day, €32 for two days, €40 for three, valid for one year) is a good buy. The card entitles you to unlimited rides on buses, trams, elevadores and the metro as well as entry to or discounts on around 25 museums. It’s available online and from all the main tourist offices.
Taxis
Lisbon’s cream taxis have a minimum charge of €3.25; an average ride across town is €10–15. Fares are twenty percent higher from 9pm to 6am, at weekends and on public holidays. Bags in the boot incur a €1.60 fee. Meters should be switched on, and tips are not expected. Outside the rush hour taxis can be flagged down quite easily, or head for one of the ranks such as those outside the main train stations. At night, it’s best to phone a taxi (attracts an extra charge of €0.80): try Teletaxis (218 111 100, teletaxis.pt).
Car rental
For more information on driving in Lisbon. Rental agents include: Auto Jardim, airport 218 463 187, autojardimrentacar.pt; Avis/Budget, 213 514 560, airport 218 435 550, avis.com/budget.com; Europcar, 210 532 783, airport 218 401 176, europcar.com; Hertz, airport 219 426 300, hertz.com.
Sightseeing tours
Open-top bus tour The 1hr 40min “Circuito Tejo” departs from Praça da Figueira (June–Sept every 15min 9am–8pm; Oct–May every 20min 9am–5.30pm; €16) taking passengers around Lisbon’s principal sights; a day-ticket allows you to get on and off whenever you want. (Information 213 478 030, yellowbustours.com.)
Tourist tram tours The “Elétrico das Colinas” (Hills Tour) takes passengers on a ninety-minute ride in an early twentieth-century tram (June–Sept every 25min 9.30am–7pm; Oct–May every 30min 9.30am–5.30pm; €19), departing from Praça do Comércio and touring around Alfama, Chiado and the Bairro Alto. (Information 213 478 030, yellowbustours.com.)
River cruises Various boat tours take in the sights of Lisbon from the river: the hop-on, hop-off Yellow Boat Tour leaves from Praça do Comércio and runs a ninety-minute trip beneath the Ponte 25 de Abril and out to Belém (May–Oct daily on the hour 10am–6pm; €18). (Information 213 478 030, yellowbustours.com.)
Jeep tours Head round the city in a Portuguese-built, open-top military jeep, able to negotiate some of the city’s tortuous hills and alleys that buses can’t reach. Various tours from €45 (913 776 598, wehatetourismtours.com.)
Walks Recommended themed two- to three-hour guided walks are offered by Lisbon Walker (218 861 840, www.lisbonwalker.com; €15), departing daily from Praça do Comércio at 10am or 2.30pm, giving expert insight into the quirkier aspects of the city’s sites, including secret histories and spies.
Tuk-tuk tours Various companies offer tours in three-wheeled tuk-tuks that can negotiate Lisbon’s steepest and narrow streets around the Alfama. Prices start at around €45 an hour and depart from outside the Sé cathedral and also Sintra train station.