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Juneau, the Inside Passage, and Southeast Alaska | Southcentral and Denali | Southcentral to Southeast
Alaska is a vast and wild state. It’s twice the size of Texas, has 17 of the country’s 20 highest peaks, a longer coastline than all U.S. states combined, and a glacier the size of Switzerland. Transportation here is tricky. Much of the state, including Juneau, the state capital, is not connected to the outside via roads. The only way to get there is by boat or plane. Careful planning is paramount, especially in regard to travel times—distances between towns and parks can be daunting. Peak season runs from May to September when temperatures hover around 60°F and prices are at their highest. Many lodges, especially those close to national parks, book up months in advance.
Lay of the Land
Alaska can be roughly divided into four regions: Southeast, which includes Juneau and the Inside Passage; Southcentral, which includes the Kenai Peninsula; the Interior, which includes Fairbanks and the Yukon; and the Bush, which is inclusive of the northwestern and very northern parts of the state.
Juneau, the Inside Passage, and Southeast Alaska. This region is largely along the northernmost end of the famous Inside Passage, a winding, 25,500-mile-long waterway that begins in the Puget Sound in Washington State, runs up the Canadian Coast, and ends in Glacier Bay. The Alaska portion is 500 miles from north to south and 100 miles from east to west, with thousands of islands, coves, and bays to explore. Around 80% of visitors experience Alaska’s glaciers and spectacular wilderness by cruising through the Inside Passage. If this is the type of trip you’re looking for, check out Alaska by Cruise Ship or check out our Alaska Ports of Call guide. This region (the Panhandle) is almost entirely made up of the Tongass National Forest—the largest national forest in the country, and the largest intact temperate rain forest in the world. It’s green, lush, and filled with glaciers, waterways, islands, and wildlife. Given the rugged, mountainous nature of this province, none of the communities here, except for Hyder, Skagway, and Haines, have road connections to the outside world—the only way to get in and out of town is via planes and boats.
The Kenai Peninsula and Southcentral Alaska. This region hugs the Gulf of Alaska and is the most populated area in the state, thanks to Anchorage. Here you’ll find mountain ranges, active volcanoes, rugged coasts, thick forests, and glacier-fed rivers. From Anchorage it’s not difficult to hop on a train to the Interior and visit Denali National Park and the famous Mt. McKinley, the highest peak in North America. Kenai Peninsula and the Copper River delta are where you’ll have the iconic salmon-fishing experience.
Fairbanks, the Yukon, and the Interior. The Interior contains North America’s highest peak, 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley and Denali National Park. Its vast forests of birch and spruce are warm in the summer and bitterly cold in the winter, though the long winter nights do feature dazzling displays of the aurora borealis (northern lights). Fairbanks is the region’s largest city. When gold prospectors and missionaries settled there at the end of the 19th century, it was already surrounded by long-established Alaska Native villages.
The Bush (Northwestern and Northern Alaska). Come here to experience the seemingly flat, endless wilderness—the beauty of infinite tundra spotted with herds of caribou and musk oxen. Witness the brown bears of Katmai Island, the extraordinary birders’ paradise on the Probilof Islands, gold panning in Nome, and the notorious Dalton Highway—the only thoroughfare in the region. Even farther north in Arctic Alaska, caribou and polar bears share the northern third of the state with oil companies and just a few thousand souls. Because there are virtually no roads to the towns and villages in the Bush, planning transportation and lodging in advance is imperative. If you’d like to get out into the wilderness here, we highly recommend a tour. It’s far less stressful and much safer.
Timing
Planning a trip to Alaska is a daunting task, especially given the sheer size of the state and dearth of roads. It’s best to embrace a “less is more” philosophy and stick to a single region or combine sites in adjacent regions. If you’re taking a cruise, assume it will take at least a week. Inside Passage routes start in Seattle or Vancouver, with ports of call in Ketchikan, Juneau, and Skagway or Sitka, and stops in either Glacier Bay or Hubbard Glacier. If you want to visit the Interior via rail or car, allot at least 7–10 days. Most of the must-see attractions are at least 100 miles apart, so you’ll need to factor in transportation time. If you prefer to stick to the coast and hop from city to city using ferries, give yourself at least a week or two.
Itineraries
The following itineraries cover only a small slice of this massive state. They can be combined, or tacked on to a cruise. We give the minimum amount of time for each destination, but we highly recommend adding days to these itineraries if your vacation allows it.
Juneau, the Inside Passage, and Southeast Alaska
The Best of the Inside Passage, 7 days
The Inside Passage is the second-longest and -deepest fjord in the world, and a ride on the ferry up the Passage during summer months offers fantastic views of waterfalls and sharp peaks cascading into the ocean; it can be a great way to spot orcas and humpback whales.
The Inside Passage is also known as the Lynn Canal, but this is a misnomer: a canal is a man-made channel and the Passage is a glacially carved fjord.
Day 1: Juneau
Kick off your journey in Juneau, where you’ll have to arrive by plane or boat, as there aren’t any roads to it. Stay at Alaska’s Capital Inn, a bed-and-breakfast far away from the cruise-ship traffic. Be sure to book in advance, as this place is popular with returning visitors.
Once you’re settled into your quarters, take a trip to the Shrine of St. Therese. You can spend a good portion of the day on this tiny island, accessible by a pedestrian causeway. Afterward, head into downtown Juneau and peruse the shops and galleries, many of which specialize in original local art.
Finish the day with dinner at the bar in the Westmark Baranof Hotel; it serves the same menu as the hotel’s well-regarded Gold Room Restaurant.
Day 2: Mendenhall Glacier
(Excursion takes approximately 5 hours)
One of Juneau’s most popular attractions, Mendenhall Glacier, is nestled right up against the town. Whether you arrive by boat or plane, you’re sure not to miss it as you approach the capital city. The glacier sits at the back of the icy blue Mendenhall Lake. Alaska Boat & Kayak Shop offers shuttle service from downtown Juneau, as well as kayak rentals. Kayak across the lake and up close to icebergs that have calved off the glacier, or hit the trails and hike up to the waterfalls.
Grab lunch before checking out of the inn. Board an afternoon or early-evening flight to Gustavus on Wings of Alaska (www.wingsofalaska.com).
Days 3 and 4: Glacier Bay National Park
(25 minutes by plane from Juneau; 4½ hours by ferry)
Located at the northern tip of the Inside Passage, Glacier Bay National Park is one of the country’s most awe-inspiring national treasures. Stay at the Glacier Bay Lodge, the only accommodation located inside the park. The lodge can arrange a daylong boat excursion that will take you past hundreds of lush green islands and straight up to the calving glaciers. Some excursions allow you to disembark and kayak around the glaciers for a couple of hours.
Or take a kayaking adventure like none you’ve ever had before. Experienced guides can be hired for multiday excursions that paddle all the way to the calving glaciers. Regardless of how far you paddle, the experience is incredibly rewarding. Though the lodge does rent solo kayaks, unless you are a very experienced sea kayaker, we recommend taking a tour.
Whichever way you decide to explore the park, you’ll find great comfort in the hot meals and comfy beds at the end of the day.
If you’re only spending one night at the park, get up early on the day of your departure and set out on any one of a number of great hikes that begin at the lodge. If you have time, consider tacking on a few extra days.
Day 5: Return to Juneau
(4½ hours by ferry from Glacier Bay)
The ferry departs Gustavus at different times depending on the day of the week, but it’s usually before 3 pm.
Stay at the Silverbow Inn, right in the heart of downtown. The location offers quick access to nature trails, the beach, and to the Douglas Island walkway. If you get back from Gustavus in time, drive or take the bus to Douglas Island. If you’re visiting between September and May, try to catch a show at Perseverance Theatre, renowned for its great set designs and talented casts.
Day 6: Take a Hike
On your last day in Juneau, get out and see some of the countryside. One of the locals’ favorite hikes is Perseverance Trail. To get here, follow Gold Street until it turns into 8th Street. Follow 8th until it dead-ends at Basin Road. Take a left and keep walking until you get to the trail. This 3-mile trail (one-way) takes about three to four hours to hike. In its past life, this was first road.
After your hike, grab lunch at any of the many eateries around downtown Juneau. Then immerse yourself in history at the Alaska State Museum, sample some of the locally brewed beer at Hangar on the Wharf, or take one last stroll along the waterfront.
Day 7: Take Off for Home
Head to the airport for your flight back.
A Different Vantage of the Inside Passage, 7 days
Hands down, the best way to experience the Inside Passage is by boat. For visitors and locals, the ferry is the number one choice for traversing the fjord; it’s economical, relaxing, and offers tremendous views. To optimize your time and cover more distance, fly some legs of the trip. Don’t worry, this won’t compromise your sightseeing: a bird’s-eye view from your plane window is breathtaking, and not to be missed.
Days 1 and 2: Ketchikan
Fly directly into Ketchikan and stay at the Black Bear Inn, an elegant, affordable, waterfront B&B. It’s highly regarded, so be sure to book well in advance.
Get settled in and take a day trip on a catamaran by Alaska Travel Adventure to the awe-inspiring Misty Fiords National Monument. The Ketchikan area is known for its salmon fishing, so if you’re interested in catching your own dinner, book a day trip that includes fishing and license.
On your second day, acquaint yourself with the beautiful town of Ketchikan. This charming town is known for its contemporary and traditional art. Spend a few hours walking through the town’s two famous totem pole parks, Totem Bright and Saxman Totem Pole Park. Stop in at the Soho Coho Gallery, owned by well-known Alaskan artist Ray Troll, where you’ll find an array of original, Alaska-made collectibles. And don’t miss the Ketchikan Arts and Humanities Council’s Main Street Gallery.
Day 3: Wrangell
(6 hours by ferry from Ketchikan)
Wrangell is less touristy than many of the towns along the Inside Passage. It’s an excellent place to get away from the hectic cruise-ship foot traffic and the T-shirt and knickknack shops that go along with it. Book your room at the Stikine Inn downtown and try to get one of the rooms with views of the water.
After you’ve unloaded at your hotel, take a stroll through the galleries and shops featuring wares by local artists and artisans. Grab lunch and walk down to the Petroglyph Beach State Historic Park and see ancient art chiseled on the rocks. No one knows who created these carvings or how long ago; they’re curious, original, and intriguing.
For the latter part of the afternoon, take a jet-boat ride with Breakaway Adventures and soak in the nearby Chief Shakes Hot Springs.
Day 4: Petersburg
(3-hour ferry ride from Wrangell)
Petersburg’s Scandinavian heritage is evident from the moment you arrive. The Norwegian-style homes and boat docks set it apart from other Alaskan towns. Book a room in Scandia House and then spend the day glacier viewing and whale watching with Tongass Kayak Adventures. Just 25 miles outside of town is LeConte Glacier, the continent’s southernmost tidewater glacier and Petersburg’s biggest draw.
Day 5: Juneau
(8-hour ferry ride from Petersburg)
Most of the ferries from Petersburg to Juneau depart in the wee hours. You can book a cabin, or do as most Alaskans do and just curl up with your blanket on a deck chair under the heat lamps.
Once you’re in Juneau, check into your room at Alaska’s Capital Inn. Grab breakfast at Heritage Coffee Company and then take a helicopter ride on Temsco Helicopters to the Juneau Icefields. Spend an exciting afternoon dogsledding across the ice like the great Iditarod mushers do.
Once you’re back in town, grab the bus to the Gold Creek Salmon Bake for dinner. If you’d like to walk off the meal, hike up to the remains of the old Wagner Gold Mine and do a little gold panning of your own.
Day 6: Haines
(4½-hour ferry ride from Juneau)
Check into Hotel Halsingland, the old Victorian officers’ bunkers of Ft. Seward, then head over to the Mountain Market. This popular hangout is a health-food market–deli–coffee shop. Grab some things for a packed lunch, then rent a bike from Sockeye Cycle and spend an afternoon on the well-groomed trails that meander through the rain forest.
Get back to your hotel in time to take the Twilight Bear Viewing Trip or Valley of the Eagles Nature Tour (3–4 hours) with Alaska Nature Tours. Afterward, have a libation at the Fogcutter Bar and rub elbows with the locals. Don’t lose track of time, though: Southeast bars have a tendency to stay open until the wee hours of morning, and you’ll need to catch the ferry or flight back to Juneau the next day for your trip home.
Day 7: Head Home
Travel back to Juneau and depart for home.
Southcentral and Denali
Discovering Anchorage and Denali, 8 days
Like all of Alaska, the Southcentral region is very spread out and the topography is incredibly diverse. But unlike in other regions, there are loads of ways to get around, and each mode of transport offers a different kind of experience.
Day 1: Arrive in Anchorage
As soon as you land in Anchorage, you’ll probably want to rent a car in preparation for an early departure the next day. Decompress after your flight at the tasteful Copper Whale Inn; it’s a stone’s throw from the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail and its great eateries and shops. For a leisurely stroll, walk along the Coastal Trail to Westchester Lagoon, or hike the entire 9 miles past Earthquake Park to Kincaid Park.
For dinner, Simon & Seafort’s is within walking distance of the inn and has great food and a fantastic view across the water to Mt. Susitna (the “Sleeping Lady”). Humpy’s Great Alaskan Ale House is a fun bar with live music and surprisingly good pub grub.
Day 2: Kayaking in Whittier
(1½-hour drive from Anchorage)
Hunker down to an early breakfast at the inn, and then go pick up some picnic fixings for your day trip. Drive down the scenic Seward Highway and turn off toward Whittier. Before reaching Whittier, pull over at the Portage Glacier turnoff, where you can see the glacier and the iceberg-filled lake right from your car. Continue on to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in North America that’s shared with trains.
Kayaking on the Prince William Sound is wonderful, and the knowledgeable guides at Alaska Sea Kayakers provide the gear and know-how to make it an experience of a lifetime.
At the end of the day, head back to Anchorage and return the car. Have dinner at the Snow Goose; be sure to request a table on the outdoor deck overlooking the bay. If you’re not too tired, check out the nightlife at Crush Wine Bistro and Cellar and Bernie’s Bungalow Lounge.
Day 3: Talkeetna
(7-hour train trip from Anchorage)
Board the morning train with Alaska Railroad and enjoy the seven-hour scenic ride to Talkeetna, a small Alaska town where artists, pilots, and mountaineers congregate. It’s where climbers preparing to ascend Mt. McKinley hang out before they’re flown to base camp. Book a room at the Susitna River Lodge and take a chartered flight over the summit (weather permitting) with Talkeetna Aero Services. Spend the rest of the afternoon walking on a glacier.
Take a before- or after-dinner stroll through this tiny town, and check out the artwork that residents create during the quiet, cold winter months. Denali Brewing Company and Twister Creek Restaurant is a nice dinner option and a good place to soak in the bustling summer scene.
Days 4–6: Denali National Park
(5-hour train trip from Talkeetna)
For over 25 years, North Face Lodge has been family-owned and operated. It offers three-, four-, or seven-night stays. A shuttle will pick you up at the train station and deliver you to a rustic wilderness lodge, deep within Denali National Park. Knowledgeable naturalists offer daily guided outings; evening programs focus on the natural and cultural history of Denali.
Denali National Park is a 6-million acre Arctic wonderland that teems with wildlife. On any given day you may see grizzlies, wolves, caribou, and moose. The weather around Mt. McKinley is fickle, so there’s never a guarantee of seeing the mountain’s peaks, though that hardly matters as you explore the glaciers, forests, and candy-colored tundra. On day two in the park, take advantage the lodge’s outstanding, off-trail, wildlife-watching expedition. Fill the rest of your time here with canoeing on Wonder Lake, biking, or a flightseeing tour around the mountain.
Day 7: Anchorage
(8-hour train trip from Denali)
Take the afternoon train back to Anchorage and arrive in time for a late dinner. Check into one of our recommended hotels, and get ready for your flight the next day.
Day 8: Fly Home
Pack your bags and check out of the hotel. It’s time to go to the airport and fly home.
Southcentral to Southeast
Into the Wilderness—Experiencing Wrangell–St. Elias, 9 days
This itinerary is a great way to see an impressive amount of Southcentral, but it needs to be well planned and executed with relative precision, as much of this trip is dependent upon the departure times for trains and ferries. One mistake and your itinerary can change dramatically—which doesn’t mean a ruined vacation, just not the one you’d planned on.
Day 1: Anchorage
For this trip, you’ll overnight in Anchorage and catch the train out early the next morning. Make the most of your time here by booking a room at the Hotel Captain Cook. Put on your hiking shoes and grab the Flattop Mountain Shuttle. This popular trailhead is at the edge of the city, where the Chugach Mountain Range begins. The hour-long hike to the top can be strenuous. From the summit you can see the entire city of Anchorage, the bay, and, on a clear day, you can see the Alaska Mountain Range and even Mt. McKinley. Should you opt to explore only the easier portion of the trail, you won’t be denied excellent views. If you still have energy after Flattop, explore the Powerline Trail; it’s the left-hand path at the trailhead. These trails are used year-round for hiking in the summer and snowshoeing, skiing, and snowmobiling in the winter. You’ll understand why Anchoragites refer to their city as a great base camp.
After an afternoon of hiking in Anchorage’s backyard, Glacier Brewhouse is a nice option for dinner.
Day 2: Seward
(4-hour train ride from Anchorage)
The train ride to Seward offers stunning views that motorists miss. Once here, get situated at Hotel Edgewater.
Seward is renowned for its tremendous sea kayaking. Book a day trip with Sunny Cove Sea Kayaking. The experienced guides here can take you past pods of orcas, sea otters, and groups of seals. Afterward, dine at the locals’ favorite hangout, Railway Cantina, and then catch a little nightlife at Yukon Bar, a popular spot with live music and tons of local flavor.
Day 3: Valdez
(3-hour bus ride from Seward; 6-hour ferry trip from Whittier)
Book an early-morning bus to Whittier. Connect immediately with the ferry for a six-hour trip to Valdez. Know that as the weather gets colder, ferries run less frequently, so be sure to plan ahead.
Arrange a room in Valdez’s Mountain Sky Hotel and Suites and rent a car with Valdez U Drive; be sure to request an SUV or a high-clearance vehicle for the drive to McCarthy, just outside of Wrangell–St. Elias National Park. If you arrived late and want to linger in Valdez, spend the next day with H2O guides on a day trip to Worthington Glacier State Park. Dine at MacMurray’s Alaska Halibut House, and be sure to try the fresh catch.
Days 4–7: Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve
(5-hour drive from Valdez)
You’ve got some driving to do and one of the most gorgeous mountains in the state to see, so you’ll want to get an early start. On the road, take care to fill the gas tank at every opportunity; gas stations here are few and far between. Summer is the only time that road construction can get done, so be prepared for delays.
Arrange your accommodations with Kennicott Glacier Lodge. After you’ve arrived, and if you’ve still got some energy, the lodge can help you book a tour of the mining ghost towns of Kennicott and McCarthy to explore the abandoned mines. The menu at the lodge is terrific, so you’ll definitely want to take your meals there.
In the days to follow, get out and enjoy the park. Contact Wrangell Outfitters for a horseback-riding adventure into the heart of the preserve. The front desk at the Lodge can also arrange glacier trekking, flightseeing, rafting, and alpine hiking. And the kitchen will pack you a picnic lunch.
Day 8: Whittier and Anchorage Connections
(6 hours by ferry from Valdez to Whittier; 2-hour train ride from Whittier to Anchorage)
It’s another early-morning departure. Take your car back and catch the 7 am ferry to Whittier. There are snacks available on the ferry, but once you get to Whittier, try the halibut fish and chips at Varly’s Swiftwater Seafood Cafe. You’ll only have a couple of hours to spare before you catch the train to Anchorage, but Whittier is small and easy to explore.
Once you’re in Anchorage, if you’re flying out the next day, book your stay at the Millenium Anchorage Hotel, near the airport and right on the shore of Lake Spenard. Take a cab to Club Paris—it’s a blast from the past and serves the best steak in the state. If you have the energy, catch a live theater show at Cyrano’s Playhouse or live music at Taproot.
Day 9: Head Home
Say goodbye to Alaska and head for home.