Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Coming Ashore | Exploring | Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and the Arts | Shopping
14 miles northeast of Haines.
Located at the northern terminus of the Inside Passage, Skagway is a one-hour ferry ride from Haines. By road, however, the distance is 359 miles, as you have to take the Haines Highway up to Haines Junction, Yukon, then take the Alaska Highway 100 miles south to Whitehorse, and then drive a final 100 miles south on the Klondike Highway to Skagway. North-country folk call this sightseeing route the Golden Horseshoe or Golden Circle tour, because it passes a lot of gold-rush country in addition to spectacular lake, forest, and mountain scenery.
The town is an amazingly preserved artifact from North America’s biggest, most-storied gold rush. Most of the downtown district forms part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, a unit of the national park system dedicated to commemorating and interpreting the frenzied stampede of 1897 that extended to Dawson City in Canada’s Yukon.
Nearly all the historic sights are within a few blocks of the cruise-ship and ferry dock, allowing visitors to meander through the town’s attractions at whatever pace they choose. Whether you’re disembarking from a cruise ship, a ferry, or a dusty automobile fresh from the Golden Circle, you’ll quickly discover that tourism is the lifeblood of this town. Unless you’re visiting in winter or hiking into the backcountry on the Chilkoot Trail, you aren’t likely to find a quiet Alaska experience around Skagway.
Coming Ashore
Skagway is a major stop for cruise ships in Alaska, and this little town sometimes has four large ships in port at once. Some dock a short stroll from downtown, others ½ mile away at the Railroad Dock, where city buses are waiting to provide transportation to the center of town. The charge is $2 one-way, or $5 for a day pass.
Virtually all the shops and gold-rush sights are along Broadway, the main strip that leads from the visitor center through the middle of town. It’s a nice walk from the docks up through Broadway, but you can also take tours in horse-drawn surreys, antique limousines, and modern vans. Glacial Smoothies on 3rd Avenue has Wi-Fi.
Tours
Revisit the gold-rush days in modern restorations of the bright-yellow 1920s sightseeing buses with Skagway Street Car Company (907/983–2908 | www.skagwaystreetcar.com). Costumed conductors lead these popular two-hour tours, but advance reservations are recommended for independent travelers, since most seats are sold aboard cruise ships. Call a week ahead in peak season to reserve a space.
Train Excursions
Skagway offers one of the few opportunities to drive in the region. Take the Alaska Highway to the Canadian Yukon’s Whitehorse and then drive on Klondike Highway to the Alaska Panhandle. Southeast Alaska’s only railroad, the White Pass and Yukon Route (907/983–2217, 800/343–7373 | www.wpyr.com, operates several different tours departing from Skagway, Fraser, British Columbia, and on some days, Carcross, Yukon. The tracks follow the historic path over the White Pass summit—a mountain-climbing, cliff-hanging route of as far as 67½ miles each way. Bus connections are available at Fraser to Whitehorse, Yukon. While the route is primarily for visitors, some locals use the service for transportation between Skagway and Whitehorse.
Visitor Information
Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau (907/983–2854, 888/762–1898 wwww.skagway.com).
Getting Here and Around
Skagway offers one of the few opportunities to drive in the region. Take the Alaska Highway to the Canadian Yukon’s Whitehorse and then drive on Klondike Highway to the Alaska Panhandle. Southeast Alaska’s only railroad, the White Pass and Yukon Route, operates several different tours departing from Skagway, Fraser, British Columbia, and on some days, Carcross, Yukon. The tracks follow the historic path over the White Pass summit—a mountain-climbing, cliff-hanging route of as far as 67½ miles each way. Bus connections are available at Fraser to Whitehorse, Yukon. While the route is primarily for visitors, some locals use the service for transportation between Skagway and Whitehorse. The Haines–Skagway Fast Ferry, a passenger catamaran, makes several runs weekly (45 minutes each way) in summer between Skagway and Haines. Special rates are available for guests who book a ride on the White Pass Summit Train.
Essentials
Ferry Contact
Haines–Skagway Fast Ferry. | Skagway Small Boat Harbor, past southern end of Congress Way | 907/766–2100, 888/766–2103 | www.hainesskagwayfastferry.com.
Internet
Port of Call. | 375 2nd Ave. | 907/983–9503.
Medical Assistance
Skagway Dahl Memorial Clinic. | 350 14th Ave., between State and Broadway | 907/983–2255 | www.skagway.org.
Visitor and Tour Information
Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. | Visitor center, 291 Broadway, at 2nd Ave. | 907/983–9200 | www.nps.gov/klgo.
Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 907/983–2854, 888/762–1898 | www.skagway.com.
White Pass and Yukon Route. | 907/983–2217, 800/343–7373 | www.wpyr.com.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park.
Housed in the former White Pass and Yukon Route Depot, this wonderful museum contains exhibits, photos, and artifacts from the White Pass and Chilkoot trails. It’s a must-see for anyone planning on taking a White Pass train ride, driving the nearby Klondike Highway, or hiking the Chilkoot Trail. Films, ranger talks, and walking tours are offered. Special free Robert Service poetry performances by Buckwheat Donahue—a beloved local character and head of the Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau—occasionally take place at the visitor center. | 2nd Ave., south of Broadway | 907/983–2921, 907/983–9224 | www.nps.gov/klgo | Free | Visitor Center: May–Sept., daily 8–6. Museum: May–Sept., daily 7:30–6; Oct.–Apr., daily 8–5.
Skagway Museum.
This nicely designed museum—also known as the “Trail of ‘98 Museum”—occupies the ground floor of the beautiful building that also houses Skagway City Hall. Inside, you’ll find a 19th-century Tlingit canoe (one of only two like it on the West Coast), historic photos, a red-and-black sleigh, and other gold rush–era artifacts, along with a healthy collection of contemporary local art and post–gold rush history exhibits. | 7th Ave. and Spring St. | 907/983–2420 | $2 | Mid-May–Sept., weekdays 9–5, Sat. 10–5, Sun. 1–4; Oct.–mid-May, hrs vary.
Worth Noting
Arctic Brotherhood Hall.
The local members of the Arctic Brotherhood, a fraternal organization of Alaska and Yukon pioneers, built their hall’s (now renovated) false front out of 8,833 pieces of driftwood and flotsam from local beaches. The result: one of the most unusual buildings in all of Alaska. The AB Hall now houses the Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau, along with public restrooms. | Broadway between 2nd and 3rd aves. | 907/983–2854, 888/762–1898 (message only) | www.skagway.com | May–Sept., daily 8–6; Oct.–Apr., weekdays 8–noon and 1–5.
Corrington’s Museum of Alaskan History.
Inside a gift shop, this impressive (and free) scrimshaw museum highlights more than 40 exquisitely carved walrus tusks and other exhibits that detail Alaska’s history. Dennis Corrington, a one-time Iditarod Race runner, and the founder of the museum, is often present. A bright flower garden decorates the exterior. | 5th Ave. and Broadway | 907/983–2579 | Free | Open when cruise ships are in port.
Golden North Hotel.
Built during the 1898 gold rush, the Golden North Hotel was—until closing in 2002—Alaska’s oldest hotel. Despite the closure, the building has been lovingly maintained and still retains its gold rush–era appearance; a golden dome tops the corner cupola. Today the downstairs houses shops. | 3rd Ave. and Broadway.
Moore Cabin.
Built in 1887 by Captain William Moore and his son Ben Moore, the tiny cabin was the first structure built in Skagway. An early homesteader, Captain Moore prospered from the flood of miners, constructing a dock, warehouse, and sawmill to supply them, and selling land for other ventures. Next door, the larger Moore House (1897–98) contains interesting exhibits on the Moore family. Both structures are maintained by the Park Service, and the main house is open daily in summer. | 5th Ave. between Broadway and Spring St. | 907/983–2921 | www.nps.gov/archeology/sites/npsites/skagway.htm | Memorial Day–Labor Day, daily 10–5.
Walking Around Skagway
Skagway’s rowdy history is memorialized at the corner of 1st Avenue and Main Street, where a marker notes the infamous 1898 gun battle between Soapy Smith and Frank Reid. From the marker, head two blocks east along 1st Avenue and turn left on Broadway into the heart of the town. Inside the old White Pass and Yukon Railroad Depot at 2nd Avenue and Broadway, you’ll find the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park visitor center, one of Southeast’s best museums.
The next block north on Broadway—the heart of historical Skagway—contains several of the town’s best-known buildings. The two-centuries-old Red Onion Saloon remains a favorite place to imbibe under the watchful eyes of “working girl” mannequins. Next door is the Arctic Brotherhood Hall, the facade of which is constructed entirely of driftwood. Inside, you’ll find the helpful Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau, which is full of friendly faces and useful local information. The golden dome of the Golden North Hotel, built in 1898, sits across the street from the old Mascot Saloon. TIP There are also public restrooms here. Keep going up Broadway for Corrington’s Museum of Alaskan History, with its large collection of scrimshaw (carved ivory) art. A right turn on 5th Avenue brings you to the Park Service’s Moore Cabin, Skagway’s oldest structure. The beautifully restored Skagway City Hall is housed in the same granite-front building as the Skagway Museum. Return to Broadway and follow it to 6th Avenue, where you can see The Days of ‘98 with Soapy Smith show inside historic Eagles Hall.
If you are up for a longer walk, continue 2 miles out of town along Alaska Street to the Gold Rush Cemetery, where you’ll find the graves of combatants Soapy Smith and Frank Reid. The cemetery is also the trailhead for the short walk to Lower Reid Falls, an enjoyable jaunt through the valley’s lush forest. (A city bus takes you most of the way to the cemetery for $2 each direction.) No tour of Skagway is complete without a train ride on the famed White Pass and Yukon Route. Trains depart from the corner of 2nd Street and Broadway several times a day in summer.
The six blocks that compose the heart of downtown Skagway can be explored in a half hour, but budget two hours to see the Park Service’s historic buildings and the Skagway Museum. (If you include the 4-mile round-trip walk to the Gold Rush Cemetery, plan on three to four hours.) Leave some time to explore Skagway’s many shops, restaurants, and other attractions.
Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours
Biking
Sockeye Cycle Company.
Based in Haines, Sockeye also does business in Skagway during summer. The company specializes in guided bike tours, including a train–bike ride combo, and from April through September rents bikes. | 381 5th Ave. | 907/983–2851 | www.cyclealaska.com.
Boating
Alaska Fjordlines.
Passengers board a high-speed catamaran at 8 am and stop along the way to watch sea lions, humpbacks, and other marine mammals on this popular day tour from Skagway and Haines to Juneau and back. The boat gets to Juneau at 11 am, where a bus transports visitors into town and to Mendenhall Glacier, returning to the boat at 5:15 pm for the ride back to Skagway, where the boat returns at 8:15 pm. TIP Call or check website for the schedule—up to six trips a week in the summer is common. | 907/766–3395, 800/320–0146 | www.alaskafjordlines.com | $165 round-trip, $120 one-way.
Local Interest by Bus
Skagway Street Car Company.
Revisit the gold-rush days in modern restorations of the bright-yellow 1920s sightseeing buses with Skagway Street Car Company. Costumed conductors lead these popular 90-minute tours, but advance reservations are recommended for independent travelers, since most seats are sold aboard cruise ships. Call a week ahead in peak season to reserve a space. | 270 2nd Ave. | 907/983–2908 | www.skagwaystreetcar.com.
Ecotourism in Alaska
Ecotourists aim to travel responsibly. Typically, ecotourism is on a smaller scale and involves more education than traditional tourism. Often guides know the local natural history and cultures; itineraries allow you a closer connection to the areas explored. As one Alaska guide says, “Slow down, take a deep breath, feel where you are.” The International Ecotourism Society (www.ecotourism.org) is a great resource.
When contacting outfitters, learn about the guides, the nature of the activities they offer, and the area you want to explore. Also be sure to determine how well the guides know the area and how long the company has been in operation. Make it a point to ask for references.
Alaska Travel Industry Association.
The association distributes the state-produced Alaska Vacation Planner, which has a section about ecotourism. | 800/862–5275 to order vacation planners | www.travelalaska.com.
Alaska Wilderness Recreation and Tourism Association.
A collective of nature-based tourism businesses and organizations, the association provides information on activities across the state. | 907/258–3171 | www.awrta.org.
Outdoor Adventure
Fodor’s Choice | Alaska Excursions.
Booking independently with Alaska Excursions, which leads wheeled (no snow) sled-dog tours, horseback-riding tours, and zipline adventures, can be difficult, as cruise-ship groups reserve the bulk of available slots. Plan well ahead to join these tours. | 5th Ave. | 907/983–4444 | www.alaskaexcursions.com.
Packer Expeditions.
This company offers guided hikes on wilderness trails not accessible by road. One trip includes a helicopter flight, a 2-mile hike toward the Laughton Glacier, and a one-hour ride back to town on the White Pass Railroad. A longer hike on the same trail uses the train for access in both directions and includes time hiking on the glacier. | 4th Ave. and State St. | 907/983–3005 | www.packerexpeditions.com | Check with your cruise line or call for prices.
Temsco Helicopters.
This company flies passengers to Denver Glacier for an hour of learning about mushing and riding on a dogsled. Guided tours of other area glaciers are also conducted. | 901 Terminal Way | 907/983–2900, 866/683–2900 | www.temscoair.com | Check with your cruise line or call for prices.
Where to Eat
Bites on Broadway.
BAKERY | A quick walk from the cruise ship docks, this tiny eatery is a good stop for a cheese biscuit and coffee in the morning or soup and a sandwich in the afternoon. You’ll also find sweet treats such as muffins, tortes, and cakes. | Average main: $6 | 648 Broadway | 907/983–2166.
Bonanza Bar & Grill.
AMERICAN | Expect a lively crowd at the Bonanza, and possibly live music or bingo if you’re here in the evening. The standard pub fare includes halibut and chips, burgers, and seafood chowder—well-prepared American food with no surprises. If you’re a sports fan, this is a good place to watch a game. | Average main: $12 | 320 W. Broadway | 907/983–6214.
Glacial Smoothies and Espresso.
CAFÉ | This local hangout is the place to go for a breakfast bagel or a lunchtime soup-and-sandwich combo. Prices are steeper than at some coffee shops, but the ingredients are fresh and local, and nearly everything on the menu is made on site. Customers can cool down with a Mango Madness or Blueberry Blues smoothie, and soft-serve ice cream in summer. | Average main: $7 | 336 3rd Ave. | 907/983–3223 | www.glacialsmoothies.com | No dinner.
Skagway Pizza Station.
PIZZA | Housed in a former gas station, this year-round restaurant is known for its comfort-food specials. The huge calzones are stuffed and served piping hot with sides of house marinara and ranch dressing—build your own or choose one of the chef’s creations, like the Chicken Hawk Squawk with pineapple and jalapeños. Or do as the Skagwegians do and wash down one of the 14-inch pizzas with a pint or two of Alaskan Summer Ale. For dog-tired travelers who can’t walk another block, the Pizza Station delivers for free. | Average main: $10 | 444 4th St. | 907/983–2200 | www.skagwayhotelandrestaurant.com/station.
Starfire.
THAI | A popular spot with the locals, and known to attract repeat customers from as far away as Juneau, this Thai restaurant fills up very quickly in the summer around dinner hour; it’s best to call ahead. One reason for the crowds is the authenticity of the traditional Thai cuisine; Starfire’s American chef learned his recipes during visits to Thailand, where he watched local friends and their grandmothers at work in their kitchens. The food is also enhanced by the use of fresh herbs, some of which are grown on site. TIP If the dining room is full, ask for a seat outside on the patio, a pleasant alternative on a nice evening. | Average main: $15 | 4th Ave. and Spring St. | 907/983–3663 | www.starfirealaska.com | Closed in winter.
Where to Stay
Chilkoot Trail Outpost.
B&B/INN | A great choice for visitors planning to make the famous 33-mile Chilkoot Trail hike, this lodging is a half mile from the trailhead. Special packages for hikers include pre- and post-trail lodging, train transportation from the trail’s end at Lake Bennett, and several meals. Even if your plans call for less adventurous activities, the Outpost is a comfortable, quiet retreat. The property consists of eight cabins, three constructed as suites with sitting rooms and private baths. All stays include breakfast. Pros: quiet setting, flexible cabin layouts. Cons: seven miles from town; few amenities. | Rooms from: $155 | Dyea Rd., 7 miles northwest of Skagway | 907/983–3799 | www.chilkoottrailoutpost.com | 8 cabins | Breakfast.
Mile Zero Bed & Breakfast.
B&B/INN | In a quiet residential area a few blocks from downtown, this comfortable B&B has spacious and well-insulated guest rooms, all with private entrances, phones, and baths. Most have two queen beds, and one room is entirely handicap-accessible. The owner, Tara Bass, is a born-and-raised Alaskan who knows the Skagway area inside out. Local travel tips and hilarious anecdotes are commonplace in the communal dining and living rooms. An outside communal area offers a refrigerator, microwave, and barbecue grill for guest use. A buffet-style breakfast is served each morning. Pros: all rooms have televisions and phones; communal areas are comfortable and clean. Cons: limited room amenities; not much view. | Rooms from: $135 | 901 Main St. | 907/983–3045 | www.mile-zero.com | 7 rooms | Breakfast.
Sgt. Preston’s Lodge.
HOTEL | This four-building lodge that feels more like a motel occupies a former army barracks. Some rooms are spacious and revamped, but others are cramped and oddly shaped. All are priced accordingly, and the property offers one of Skagway’s few handicapped-accessible rooms. The lodge’s downtown location and proximity to the cruise-ship and ferry docks (a short walk to each) make it a good choice for budget-conscious travelers. Pros: convenient to cruise-ship and ferry docks; handicap-accessible room; pets allowed for a small fee. Cons: some rooms shaped oddly; some rooms are small. | Rooms from: $100 | 370 6th Ave. | 907/983–2521, 866/983–2521 | www.sgtprestonslodge.com | 40 rooms | No meals.
Skagway Inn Bed & Breakfast.
B&B/INN | Each room in this family-friendly downtown Victorian inn (once a not-so-family-friendly bordello) is named after a different gold-rush gal. The creaky building, one of Skagway’s oldest, was built in 1897 and has been lovingly restored. The small rooms have no televisions and share a Victorian motif, with period antiques and cast-iron beds. A big homemade breakfast is served downstairs each morning from 7 to 8 am in Olivia’s Restaurant, and the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner to anyone in the mood for “Alaskan tapas.” Outdoor seating is next to the gardens. Chilkoot Trail hikers who spend two nights at the hotel get free transport to the trailhead, Coleman stove fuel, and storage of their gear while hiking. Refrigerator and freezer storage are available for fishermen. Pros: large breakfast served; nicely remodeled; antique furnishings. Cons: floors are creaky; walls are thin; no televisions; some rooms without private bathrooms. | Rooms from: $129 | 655 Broadway | 907/983–2289, 888/752–4929 | www.skagwayinn.com | 10 rooms (4 with bath) | Closed Oct.–Apr. | Breakfast.
White House.
B&B/INN | Built in 1902 by Lee Guthrie, a gambler and owner of one of the town’s most profitable gold-rush saloons, the white-clapboard two-story B&B—about two blocks from downtown Skagway—is furnished with original Skagway antiques and handcrafted quilts. Every guest room has a private bathroom. Light breakfasts are served, and children are welcome. Pros: conveniently located. Cons: most rooms require climbing stairs. | Rooms from: $125 | 475 8th Ave. | 907/983–9000 | www.atthewhitehouse.com | 10 rooms | Breakfast.
Nightlife and the Arts
Bars
Red Onion Saloon.
Skagway was once host to dozens upon dozens of watering holes in its gold-rush days, but the Red Onion is pretty much the sole survivor. The upstairs was Skagway’s first bordello, and you’ll find a convivial crowd of Skagway locals and visitors among the scantily clad mannequins who represent the building’s former illustrious tenants. A ragtime pianist tickles the keys in the afternoons, and local musicians strut their stuff on Thursday night. The saloon closes up shop for winter. | 205 Broadway | 907/983–2222 | www.redonion1898.com.
Theater
The Days of ‘98 with Soapy Smith.
Since 1927 locals and visiting actors have performed a show at Eagles Hall called The Days of ‘98 with Soapy Smith. You’ll see cancan dancers (including Molly Fewclothes, Belle Davenport, and Squirrel Tooth Alice), learn a little local history, and watch desperado Soapy Smith being sent to his reward. At the evening show you can enjoy a few warm-up rounds of mock gambling with Soapy’s money. Performances of Robert Service poetry start a half hour before showtime. Shows take place from one to four times daily, mid-May through mid-September. | 590 Broadway | 907/983–2545 May–mid-Sept., 808/328–9132 mid-Sept.–Apr. | www.thedaysof98show.com | $20.
Shopping
Alaska Artworks.
For those in search of locally produced silver jewelry, watercolor prints, and other handmade crafts, this artist-owned shop is a good place to start. | 555C Broadway | 907/983–3443 | www.inspiredartworks.com.
Corrington’s Alaskan Ivory.
The destination of choice for scrimshaw seekers, Corrington’s has one the state’s best collections of ivory art. | 525 Broadway | 907/983–2579.
Skaguay News Depot & Books.
This small but quaint bookstore carries Alaska titles, children’s books, magazines, maps, and gifts. Its moniker is a throwback to the town name’s former spelling. The owner, Jeff Brady, also runs the local newspaper, The Skagway News. | 264 Broadway | 907/983–3354 | www.skagwaybooks.com.