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Girdwood
40 miles southeast of Anchorage.
A ski resort, summer vacation spot, and home to an eclectic collection of locals, the town of Girdwood sits in a deep valley and is surrounded by tall mountains on three sides and, on the fourth, Turnagain Arm, one of the most photogenic sites in South Central Alaska. Originally called Glacier City (a name we’re rather fond of), Girdwood got its start as a gold-mining town. The town was renamed for James Girdwood, an Irish linen merchant who had four gold claims. But the name wasn’t the only thing that changed over the years; the town itself was moved 2½ miles from its original site after the 1964 earthquake.
Today Girdwood’s main attraction is the Mt. Alyeska Ski Resort, the largest ski area in Alaska. Besides enjoying the obvious winter attractions, you can hike up the mountain, rent a bike, or visit several restaurants (our favorite is Seven Glaciers) and gift shops. Girdwood is wetter than Anchorage; it often rains or snows here while the sun shines to the north.
Getting Here and Around
Though it’s only 40 miles from Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport, consider allowing extra time if you make the drive to Girdwood: The drive down the New Seward Highway is stunning—oh, that Turnagain Arm—and photo ops abound. Other options include a ride on the Alaska Railroad Coastal Classic or Glacier Discovery train (907/265–2494, 800/544–0552 | www.alaskarailroad.com), or reserve a spot on the Magic Bus (907/230–6773 | www.themagicbus.com), which runs between Anchorage and Girdwood year-round. Once in town, you’ll need to rely on your own car, the Alyeska Resort shuttle service, or foot power.
When to Go
Though Girdwood is best known for its winter ski activities, there’s plenty to do year-round. The town’s restaurants remain popular with locals—snow or no snow—and the area offers some of Anchorage’s best hiking trails, fishing, and much more.
Exploring
Girdwood Center for Visual Arts.
Though you’ll go to Girdwood to ski or hike, you’ll end up spending time perusing the crafts and artwork at this nonprofit co-op gallery. With pieces from more than 40 artists on display, there’s plenty to look at—and you might end up taking care of any gift needs (from the trip or for the holidays) in one fell swoop. | 194 Olympic Mountain Circle | 907/783–3209 | www.gcvaonline.org | Closed Mon. and Tues. Oct.–Apr.
Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours
Alaska Backcountry Access.
This outfitter zips people out of town for jetboat rides up Twentymile River, kayaking, and much more. Families with kids age 6 and older might enjoy the slightly adventurous Winner Creek Trekker trips, a naturalist-led day trip that includes a hike, panning for gold, and a cable hand-tram trip across Glacier Creek. Their winter slate includes snowmobile outings and a unique sport they call “snowsheering,” which combines canyoneering with snowshoeing. | New Girdwood Townsite | 907/783–3600, 800/712–3000 | www.akback.com.
Alyeska Resort.
Alaska’s largest and best-known downhill ski resort encompasses more than 1,500 acres of skiable terrain for all skill levels. A high-speed quad lift gets you up the mountain faster. Ski rentals are available at the resort. Local ski and snowboard guides teach classes on the mountain. | 907/754–7669, 800/880–3880 | www.alyeskaresort.com.
Chugach Powder Guides.
This helicopter and Sno-Cat skiing operation focuses on backcountry skiing and snowboarding in the interior Chugach Range, the Seward area, and the Tordrillo Mountains.When you see films of extreme helicopter skiing in Alaska, it’s often these guys. | 907/783–4354 | www.chugachpowderguides.com.
Where to Eat
The Bake Shop.
AMERICAN | The atmosphere is vintage 1975 at this old-time Girdwood favorite, where you order at the counter and wait for servers to bring your meal. Breakfasts are filling, with piles of sourdough pancakes, fluffy omelets (we heartily recommend the farmer’s omelet), and homemade pastries. Skiers and snowboarders drop by for a fast lunch or dinner of homemade soups, sandwiches, or garden-fresh pizzas. Get a loaf of the hearty sourdough to go: They still use a sourdough starter rumored to be from the late 1800s. Dine out front in summer, surrounded by hanging baskets filled with begonias, lobelia, and impatiens. TIP The shop opens at 7 am daily, making it a great option for early birds or folks who haven’t adjusted to the time change yet. | Average main: $9 | Olympic Mountain Loop | 907/783–2831 | www.thebakeshop.com | No credit cards | Daily 7–7.
Double Musky Inn.
SOUTHERN | Anchorage residents say eating at this award-winning spot is well worth the one-hour drive south to Girdwood and the inevitable wait for dinner—you can usually find a spot at the bar, order some halibut ceviche, and choose from the extensive martini menu or local draft beers. It’s very noisy, and the interior is completely covered with tacky art and Mardi Gras souvenirs of all types, but the windows frame views of huge Sitka spruce trees. The diverse menu mixes hearty Cajun-style meals with such favorites as garlic seafood pasta, rack of lamb, French pepper steak, and lobster kebabs. For dessert lovers, the biggest attraction is the gooey, chocolate-rich Double Musky pie. | Average main: $32 | Mile 0.3, Crow Creek Rd. | 907/783–2822 | www.doublemuskyinn.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Mon., and late Oct.–mid-Dec. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Seven Glaciers.
EUROPEAN | This refined yet relaxing mountaintop Girdwood restaurant is perched at the 2,300-foot level on Mt. Alyeska. The dining room’s floor-to-ceiling windows overlook seven glaciers nestled in an unforgettable panoramic mountain view. The forward-thinking menu capitalizes on local produce and seafood, highlighted in dishes such as scallop bisque with smoked salmon mousse. When offered a chef’s tasting menu with wine pairings, take it: you are in good hands. The restaurant also caters to special diets, including gluten-free. A 60-passenger aerial tram (free with dinner reservations, otherwise $25 round-trip) carries you to the restaurant. Both tram and restaurant are wheelchair accessible. | Average main: $46 | Hotel Alyeska,1000 Arlberg Rd. | 907/754–2237 | www.alyeskaresort.com/dining | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Where to Stay
The Carriage House.
B&B/INN | This Girdwood B&B is across from the Double Musky restaurant and close to Alyeska Resort’s downhill ski slopes. Rooms are accessed through a private entrance and patios; the rooms in the back have a view of Mt. Alyeska, and the gurgling of nearby California Creek can be heard through open windows on warm summer evenings. Pros: elegant furnishings; new flat-screen TVs; very nice breakfast spread. Cons: location can be a bit remote for some; restaurant traffic is bothersome. | Rooms from: $130 | Mile 0.2, Crow Creek Rd. | 907/783–9464, 888/961–9464 | www.thecarriagehousebandb.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | The Hotel Alyeska.
HOTEL | Most rooms have stunning views of the Chugach Mountains and the lush forests surrounding this large and luxurious hotel at the base of Alyeska Ski Resort in Girdwood, 40 miles south of Anchorage. Room perks include heated towel racks, ski-boot storage lockers, and bathrobes. Guests relax in front of the big lobby fireplace, with tall windows facing the mountains. The large heated saltwater pool is a major attraction for families, and the hot tub is a hit after a day on the slopes. Dining choices include the Aurora Bar & Grill, featuring casual dining and bar seating, and Sakura Restaurant, featuring fresh seafood and a sushi bar. A spectacular aerial tram (free if you have dinner reservations) transports diners to the spectacular Seven Glaciers Restaurant at the 2,300-foot level on the mountain. The Spa at Alyeska can help undo any knots or aches brought on by adventures on the mountain. lIn winter, you can ask for an aurora wake up call. Pros: great views; top-notch service; free shuttle around Girdwood. Cons: smallish rooms. | Rooms from: $279 | 1000 Arlberg Ave. | 907/754–2111, 800/880–3880 | www.alyeskaresort.com/hotel | 304 rooms, 23 suites | No meals.
Shopping
Jewelry
Kobuk Valley Jade Co.
The Kobuk Valley Jade Co., at the base of Mt. Alyeska, sells hand-polished jade pieces as well as Native masks, baskets, and jewelry. | Olympic Circle | 907/783–2764.