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Exploring | Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife | Shopping
77 miles south of Soldotna, 226 miles southwest of Anchorage.
At the southern end of the Sterling Highway lies the city of Homer, at the base of a narrow spit that juts 4 miles into beautiful Kachemak Bay. Glaciers and snowcapped mountains form a dramatic backdrop across the water.
Founded in the late 1800s as a gold-prospecting camp, this community was later used as coal-mining headquarters. Chunks of coal are still common along local beaches; they wash into the bay from nearby slopes where the coal seams are exposed. Today the town of Homer is an eclectic community with most of the tacky tourist paraphernalia relegated to the Spit (though the Spit has plenty else to recommend it, not the least of which is the 360-degree view of the surrounding mountains); the rest of the town is full of local merchants and artisans. The community is an interesting mix of fishermen, actors, artists, and writers. Much of the commercial fishing centers on halibut, and the popular Homer Jackpot Halibut Derby is often won by fish weighing more than 300 pounds. The local architecture includes everything from dwellings that are little more than assemblages of driftwood to steel commercial buildings and magnificent homes on the hillside overlooking the surrounding bay, mountains, forests, and glaciers.
Getting Here and Around
The Sterling Highway ends in Homer, and the drive in is beautiful. Once there, you’ll see signs on your left for Pioneer Avenue, Homer’s commercial district. On the right is the historic town center, and if you keep to the road you’ll hit the Spit. Homer also has a commercial airport, with flights daily to and from Anchorage, Seldovia, and elsewhere. If you’re traveling on the Marine Highway system, ferries to Kodiak and beyond dock several times a week in summer.
Cruise Travel
Ships and Alaska Marine Highway ferries dock at the end of the Homer Spit, where you can find charters, restaurants, and shops. The routine for cruise lines calling in Homer is to provide a shuttle from the Spit to downtown. Since Homer isn’t a common port and the town itself offers so much to explore, shore-excursion offerings aren’t as predictable here as in other ports of call. Your ship may offer boat charters to Gull Island (a nearby island chock-full of cacophonous seagulls and other seabirds) or Seldovia (a small, scenic town with quality art galleries across Katchemak Bay). Halibut fishing is also huge here, and if you take one fishing-charter excursion during your trip this would be the place to do it.
Essentials
Medical Assistance
South Peninsula Hospital. | 4300 Bartlett St. | 907/235–8101, 866/235–0369 | www.sphosp.com.
Visitor Information
Visit Homer. | 201 Sterling Hwy. | 907/235–8766 | www.homeralaska.org | Late May–early Sept., weekdays 9–7, weekends 10–6; early Sept.–late May, weekdays 9–5.
Exploring
Top Attractions
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Homer Spit.
Protruding into Kachemak Bay, Homer Spit provides a sandy focal point for visitors and locals. A 4½-mile paved road runs the length of the spit, making it the world’s longest road into the ocean. A commercial-fishing-boat harbor at the end of the path has restaurants, hotels, charter-fishing businesses, sea-kayaking outfitters, art galleries, and on-the-beach camping spots. Fly a kite, walk the beaches, drop a line in the Fishing Hole, or just wander through the shops looking for something interesting; this is one of Alaska’s favorite summertime destinations.
FAMILY | Islands and Ocean Visitors Center.
This center provides a wonderful introduction to the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge covers some 3½ million acres spread across some 2,500 Alaskan islands, from Prince of Wales Island in the south to Barrow in the north. The 37,000-square-foot eco-friendly facility with towering windows facing Kachemak Bay is a must-see for anyone interested in wild places. A film takes visitors along on a voyage of the Fish and Wildlife Service’s research ship, the MV Tiglax. Interactive exhibits detail the birds and marine mammals of the refuge (the largest seabird refuge in America), and one room even re-creates the noisy sounds and pungent smells of a bird rookery. In summer, guided bird-watching treks and beach walks are offered, and you can a stroll on your own on the walkways in the Beluga Slough, where Alaskan poet Wendy Erd’s commissioned work lines the way. | 95 Sterling Hwy. | 907/235–6961 | www.islandsandocean.org | Free | Late May–Sept., daily 9–5; Sept.–Apr., Tues.–Sat. noon–5; May 1–late May, Mon.–Sat. 10–5.
Kachemak Bay.
The bay abounds with wildlife, including a large population of puffins and eagles. Tour operators take visitors past bird rookeries or across the bay to gravel beaches for clam digging. Most fishing charters include an opportunity to view whales, seals, porpoises, and birds close up. At the end of the day, walk along the docks on Homer Spit and watch commercial fishing boats and charter boats unload their catch. Across the bay from Homer Spit lies Kachemak Bay State Park and State Wilderness Park, one of the largest coastal parks in America.
Worth Noting
FAMILY | Pratt Museum.
The Pratt is an art gallery and a cultural and natural-history museum rolled into one. In addition to monthly exhibits showcasing some of Alaska’s finest artists, the museum has an exhibit on the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill, botanical gardens, nature trails, a gift shop, and pioneer, Russian, and Alaska Native displays. You can spy on wildlife with robotic video cameras set up on a seabird rookery and at the McNeil River Bear Sanctuary. A refurbished homestead cabin and outdoor summer exhibits are along the trail out back. | Bartlett St. off Pioneer Ave. | 907/235–8635 | www.prattmuseum.org | $8 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 10–6; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Tues.–Sun. noon–5. Closed Jan.
Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours
Bear Watching
Emerald Air Service.
Homer is a favorite departure point for viewing Alaska’s famous brown bears in Katmai National Park. Emerald Air is one of several companies offering day-long and custom photography trips. | 907/235–4160, 877/235–9600 | www.emeraldairservice.com | From $650.
Hallo Bay Wilderness.
This outfit delivers guided close-range viewing without the crowds. The day trips are eventful, but the overnight stays at Hallo Bay’s eco-friendly coastal lodging provide the ultimate in world-class bear and wildlife viewing. | 907/235–2237, 888/535–2237 | www.hallobay.com | Day trip $650; overnight trips from $950.
Boating and Fishing
Homer is a major commercial fishing port (especially for halibut) and a popular destination for sport anglers in search of giant halibut or feisty king and silver salmon. Quite a few companies offer charter fishing in summer, from about $250 to $350 per person per day, including bait and tackle. The pricing is usually based on how many different types of fish you’re going after.
Central Charters & Tours.
Central can arrange fishing trips in outer Kachemak Bay and Lower Cook Inlet—areas known for excellent halibut fishing. Boat sizes vary considerably; some have a six-person limit, whereas others can take up to 16 passengers. The company also conducts non-fishing tours of Kachemak Bay and Seldovia. | 4241 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/235–7847 | www.centralcharter.com | Tours from $59, fishing trips from $135.
Fishing Hole.
Near the end of the Spit, Homer’s famous Fishing Hole, aka the Nick Dudiak Fishing Lagoon, is a small bight stocked with king and silver salmon smolt (baby fish) by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. The salmon then head out to sea, returning several years later to the Fishing Hole, where they are easy targets for wall-to-wall bankside anglers throughout summer. The Fishing Hole isn’t anything like casting for salmon along a remote stream, but your chances are good and you don’t need to drop $800 for a flight into the wilderness. TIP Fishing licenses and rental poles are available from fishing-supply stores on the Spit.
Homer Jackpot Halibut Derby.
Anyone heading out on a halibut charter is advised to buy a $10 ticket for the derby, which ends with the season in September. First prize for the largest halibut is $10,000, plus $0.50 per ticket sold. In addition, more than 100 fish are tagged; anglers who catch them win cash or other prizes worth up to $50,000. TIP Food for thought: in 2013, the angler who caught the fish bearing the $50,000 tag hadn’t bought a derby ticket. | 907/235–7740 | www.homerhalibutderby.com.
Homer Ocean Charters.
Locally owned and operated, Homer Ocean Charters has been in business since 1979, setting up fishing, sea-kayaking, and sightseeing trips. It also offers water-taxi services and bare-bones cabin rentals on Otter Cove. | 4287 Homer Spit Rd. | 800/426–6212 | www.homerocean.com | From $200.
Inlet Charters.
Try Inlet Charters for fishing charters, fish processing, water-taxi services, lodging, sea-kayaking, and wildlife cruises. | 800/770–6126 | www.halibutcharters.com.
Sea Kayaking
Across the Bay Tent & Breakfast Adventure Company.
For something unusual, book an overnight trip to Kasitsna Bay through Across the Bay. Guests can take kayak tours, rent a mountain bike, or just hang out on the shore and participate in workshops on topics such as fish-skin basketry, wildlife photography, and permaculture design. | Kasitsna Bay | 907/350–4636, 907/345–2571 Sept.–May | www.tentandbreakfastalaska.com | From $80 | Closed early Sept.–late May.
True North Kayak Adventures.
Several local companies offer guided sea-kayaking trips to protected coves within Kachemak Bay State Park and nearby islands. True North has a range of such adventures, including a three-day trip and a boat and kayak day trip to Yukon Island (both trips include round-trip water taxi to the island base camp, guide, all kayak equipment, and meals). | 907/235–0708 | www.truenorthkayak.com | Day trips from $105; call or visit website for overnight pricing.
Where to Eat
Café Cups.
ECLECTIC | It’s hard to miss this place as you drive down Pioneer Avenue—look for the huge namesake cups on the building’s facade. A longtime Homer favorite, the café serves dinners that make the most of the locally abundant seafood and complements them with well-selected wines. The menu includes hand-cut steaks and a marvelous clam, shrimp, and salmon fettuccine in a mandarin orange–champagne cream sauce. Vegetarian options are also offered. TIP Locals ignore the menu and wait to hear the day’s specials—sometimes as many as a dozen. Singles mix at the hand-carved wine bar. | Average main: $25 | 162 W. Pioneer Ave. | 907/235–8330 | www.cafecupsofhomer.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Fat Olives Restaurant.
MEDITERRANEAN | Pumpkin-color walls, light streaming through tall front windows, and a playful collection of Italian posters add to the appeal of this fine Tuscany-inspired bistro. The menu encompasses enticing appetizers, salads, sandwiches, calzones, and pizzas throughout the day, along with oven-roasted chicken, fresh seafood, pork loin, and other fare in the evening. If you’re in a hurry, just get a giant slice of the thin-crust cheese pizza to go for $5. You can order meals at the bar, where there is a great wine selection, and there’s always something decadent for dessert. | Average main: $15 | 276 Olson La. | 907/235–8488.
Fritz Creek General Store.
ECLECTIC | Directly across the road from the Homestead Restaurant is this old-fashioned country store, gas station, liquor store, post office, video-rental shop, and deli. The latter is the primary reason for stopping at Fritz’s. The food is amazingly good—brisket smoked right out back, homemade bread, pastries, and pizza by the slice. Pull up a chair at a table crafted from an old cable spool and join the back-to-the-land patrons as they drink espresso, talk Alaska politics, and pet the cats. | Average main: $6 | Mile 8.2,55770 E. End Rd. | 907/235–6753.
Homestead Restaurant.
EUROPEAN | This former log roadhouse 8 miles from town serves artfully presented food amid contemporary Alaska art. The Homestead specializes in seasonal fish and shellfish prepared with garlic, citrus fruits, or spicy ethnic sauces, as well as steak, rack of lamb, and prime rib. Epic views of the bay, mountains, and hanging glaciers are yours for the looking. Homestead has an extensive wine list and locally brewed beer on tap. | Average main: $25 | Mile 8.2, E. End Rd. | 907/235–8723 | www.homesteadrestaurant.net | Reservations essential | Closed Nov.–Mar. 8. Dinner seating begins at 5 pm.
La Baleine.
AMERICAN | One of the few places on the spit open at 5 am, this is a perfect stop before a day of fishing, but lunch is an equally fulfilling experience. La Baleine serves fantastic breakfast sandwiches on fresh ciabatta rolls—complimentary cup of locally roasted coffee included. If your schedule permits, though, sit a spell and enjoy a flavorful lunch. Owner and renowned chef Kirsten Dixon and her daughter Mandy, both of them graduates of Le Cordon Bleu cooking school, create simple, highly pleasing meals such as the noodle bowl: fresh ramen with homemade broth, local vegetables, and seasonal fish. All the wild seafood dishes here are tremendously flavorful. | Average main: $12 | 4450 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/299–6672 | www.labaleinecafe.com | Closed Mon. No dinner.
Fodor’s Choice | Little Mermaid.
AMERICAN | This hot spot draws crowds from all over the world, despite the fact it’s too small to fit them all. Its size makes Little Mermaid feel cozy and the staff seem familial—with the emphasis on local ingredients, each bite makes Homer feel a little more like home. Popular starters include fish tacos, sliders made with Alaska-raised beef, and Halibut Cove blue mussels. The entrées change often but might include fish and chips, wild prawns, and beef tenderloin. TIP A sure-fire bet is the Hot Stone Bowl, made a different way each day with mostly local fish and vegetables. | Average main: $28 | Harborview Boardwalk,4246 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/339–9900 | www.littlemermaidhomer.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues.
Fodor’s Choice | Maura’s Café.
CAFÉ | The three cooks on duty here whirl and swirl in perpetual motion, masterfully creating soups and salads and fashioning sandwiches on still-hot-from-the-oven French baguettes. Two items not to miss are the tomato basil bisque and the brioche strata, a soufflé-like affair made of eggs, Gruyère, bacon, and caramelized onions. The café’s omnipresent namesake is a member of the Slow Food Movement, which means that her ingredients come largely from local and sustainable sources and her meals do not in any way resemble fast food. TIP Be prepared for a line and a shortage of tables—word has gotten out about this restaurant’s marvelous blend of flavors and textures. | Average main: $15 | 106 Bunnell Ave. | 907/235–1555 | www.maurascafe.com.
Two Sisters Bakery.
CAFÉ | This very popular café is a short walk from Bishops Beach, Beluga Slough, and the Islands and Ocean Visitors Center. In addition to fresh breads and pastries, Two Sisters specializes in deliciously healthful lunches, such as vegetarian focaccia sandwiches, homemade soups, quiche, and salads. Sit on the wraparound porch on a summer afternoon, or take your espresso and scone down to the beach to watch the waves roll in. TIP Upstairs are three comfortable guest rooms ($), all with private baths. | Average main: $5 | 233 E. Bunnell Ave. | 907/235–2280 | www.twosistersbakery.net | No dinner.
Where to Stay
Alaskan Suites.
HOTEL | These modern log cabins offer million-dollar views from a hilltop on the west side of Homer. Each contains two queen beds and a kitchenette, and there’s a gas barbecue grill on the deck. Every cabin is equipped with a 42-inch flat-screen TV with DVD, satellite connections, and surround sound. Guests can soak in a large hot tub with Kachemak Bay, mountains, glaciers, and three volcanoes as the backdrop. Pros: crow’s-nest views; highway location with no highway noise. Cons: not within walking distance of anything. | Rooms from: $285 | 3255 Sterling Hwy. | 907/235–1972, 888/239–1972 | www.alaskansuites.com | 5 cabins | No meals.
Driftwood Inn.
B&B/INN | With an RV park, two deluxe lodges, a cottage, and a historic inn, the Driftwood accommodates a range of travelers. The inn has “ship’s quarters” with cedar walls and a pull-down bed, and “European rooms” with queen-size beds, dining-room tables, microwaves, refrigerators, full private baths, and private outside entrances. Downstairs is a comfortable sitting room with fireplace, TV, books and videos. A small eating area has self-service coffee, tea, pastries, and cereal. The bluff-front lodges, which sleep up to 12 ($950), have spacious rooms overlooking Kachemak Bay, with private bathrooms and king-size beds; the Cottage ($175–$245), which sleeps up to eight and overlooks the bay, has two bedrooms, a loft, and a full and half bath. You have full access to the inn’s facilities if you stay at the on-site campground and full-hookup RV park ($40–$45). Pros: accommodation for every budget. Cons: some of the inn’s rooms are small. | Rooms from: $110 | 135 W. Bunnell Ave. | 907/235–8019 | www.thedriftwoodinn.com | 22 rooms (14 with bath), 1 cottage | Breakfast.
Homer Inn & Spa.
B&B/INN | As well as a fabulous view of the ocean, this beachfront boutique inn offers 3 minisuites and a villa, all decorated with local art and character. Guests can relax on their private balconies or gather in the beachside Jacuzzi. Further pampering—massages, wraps, and other treatments—can be arranged at the at the day spa. Pros: incredible views of the bay, glaciers, and volcanoes. Cons: Old Town and main commerce area are not in close walking distance. | Rooms from: $190 | 895 Ocean Dr. Loop | 907/235–1000, 800/294–7823 | www.homerinnandspa.com | 3 suites, 1 villa | No meals.
Land’s End Resort and Lodges.
HOTEL | Spread across the best real estate on the Spit, Land’s End offers splendid bay views from variously styled rooms and suites. The resort also has three-bedroom condos—economical for groups of up to 10 people—that come with full kitchens, balconies, and access to a private beach. The restaurant, The Chart Room ($$$$), specializes in seafood but also serves burgers and steaks. lCall in advance to reserve a table with a window view of Kachemak Bay—or on a sunny day, dine on an enormous deck that perches over the water. In the winter, when the deck is closed, guests can partake of the chef’s monthly wine-paired, themed-dinner ($80). Pros: the Spit-end location puts you well into the bay. Cons: you might be disappointed if you get a room without a view. | Rooms from: $190 | 4786 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/235–0400, 800/478–0400 | www.lands-end-resort.com | 108 rooms, 24 2-room suites, 34 lodges | Some meals.
Old Town Bed & Breakfast.
B&B/INN | In the oldest commercial building in Homer, this bright and cozy B&B offers peace, convenience, and sweeping views of the bay and mountains. It’s in an excellent location, and not just because it’s in the Old Town—it’s also above the Bunnell Street Art Gallery and Maura’s Cafe—a fine cheese shop and deli. The stairs up have shifted with time and now have a slight lean, giving visitors the sense that they’ve had far too much to drink. In contrast though, the rooms are beautifully decorated with art and elegantly appointed with period furnishings and fixtures. The art gallery hosts occasional evening music, poetry, or arts programs, and a gourmet breakfast, included in the price, is served in the parlor upstairs. Pros: warm and inviting; good location; great views. Cons: some rooms have shared baths. | Rooms from: $110 | 106 W. Bunnell Ave., in Old Inlet Trading Post | 907/235–7558 | www.oldtownbedandbreakfast.com | 3 rooms (1 with bath) | Breakfast.
Nightlife
Alice’s Champagne Palace.
Dance to lively bands on weekends at Alice’s, which attracts nationally known singer-songwriters. | 195 E. Pioneer Ave. | 907/235–6909.
Pier One Theater.
For more than four decades, this community theater has presented locally written and outside plays. Recent seasons have seen a Molière comedy and narratives of people in the fishing industry. The theater is in an old barnlike building on the Homer Spit. | 3858 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/235–7333 | www.pieronetheatre.org.
Salty Dawg Saloon.
The Spit’s infamous Salty Dawg is a tumbledown lighthouse of sorts, sure to be frequented by a carousing fisherman or two, along with half the tourists in town. | 4380 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/235–6718 | www.saltydogsaloon.com.
Shopping
Art and Gifts
A variety of art by the town’s residents can be found in the galleries on and around Pioneer Avenue.
Bunnell Street Gallery.
The gallery, which occupies the first floor of a historic trading post, showcases and sells innovative Alaskan-made contemporary art. It also hosts workshops, lectures, musical performances, and other community events. | 106 W. Bunnell Ave., at Main St. | 907/235–2662 | www.bunnellstreetgallery.org.
Pratt Museum.
The museum’s gift shop stocks natural-history books, locally crafted or inspired jewelry, note cards, and gifts for children. | 3779 Bartlett St., off Pioneer Ave. | 907/235–8635 | www.prattmuseum.org.
Ptarmigan Arts.
A cooperative gallery, Ptarmigan shows photographs, paintings, pottery, jewelry, woodworking, and other pieces by local fine and craft artists. | 471 E. Pioneer Ave. | 907/235–5345 | www.ptarmiganarts.com.
Clothing
Nomar.
The company manufactures equipment and clothing for commercial fishermen. Its Homer shop sells Polarfleece garments and other rugged outerwear, plus duffels, rain gear, and children’s clothing. | 104 E. Pioneer Ave. | 907/235–8363, 800/478–8364 | www.nomaralaska.com.
Food
Coal Point Seafood Company.
Homer is famous for its halibut, salmon, and Kachemak Bay oysters. For fresh fish, head to Coal Point Seafood Company, which can also package and ship fish that you catch. | 4306 Homer Spit Rd. | 907/235–3877, 800/325–3877 | www.welovefish.com.
Fritz Creek Store.
This shop sells fresh, homemade food in an old log building. | Mile 8.2, E. End Rd. | 907/235–6753.