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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Denali Planner
Updated by Jenna Schnuer
Denali National Park and Preserve is Alaska’s most visited attraction for many reasons. The most accessible of Alaska’s national parks and one of only three connected to the state’s highway system, the 6-million-acre wilderness offers views of mountains so big they seem like a wall on the horizon; endless wildlife, from cinnamon-color Toklat grizzlies to herds of caribou, to moose with antlers the size of coffee tables; glaciers with forests growing on them; autumn tundra the color of a kid’s breakfast cereal.
The keystone of the park is Mt. McKinley. More commonly called by its Athabascan name, Denali, meaning “the High One,” or often referred to by Alaskans simply as “the Mountain,” the peak measures in at 20,320 feet, the highest point on the continent. Denali is also the tallest mountain in the world—yes, Mt. Everest is higher, but it sits on the Tibetan plateau, like it was standing on a chair to rise above Denali, which starts barely above sea level.
Unfortunately for visitors on a tight schedule, Denali, like big mountains everywhere, makes its own weather systems, and the simple truth is that the mountain really, really likes clouds: the peaks are wreathed in clouds an average of two out of three days in summer. You can increase your odds of glimpsing Denali’s peak by venturing into the heart of the park or staying at a wilderness lodge at the western park boundary. Or get really ambitious: more than 1,000 adventurers climb the mountain’s slopes each summer. On average, of those who take the most common route, the West Buttress, just over half make it to the peak. The rest turn back, gasping for breath in the thin air. It’s certainly not a last-minute, might-as-well activity—the climb takes serious preparation and planning.
Although the mountain is the biggest attraction, you don’t need to see it—much less climb it—to appreciate the park; in fact, few people who visit Denali National Park and Preserve will come any closer than 35 miles to the mountain’s slopes—and most visitors won’t even get that close.
The mountain becomes just a distant thought during a trip along Denali Park Road, which offers sights you won’t forget, including the chance to see grizzly bears, wolves, caribou, moose, and Dall sheep—the “big five” of Alaskan animals. And keep an eye (and ear) out for soaring golden eagles, clucking ptarmigans, and chattering ground squirrels. If you prefer to take in the scenery without glass between you and the wild, you can bike or hike along the park road. Or see it all from an eagle’s point of view: flightseeing is one of the best ways to gain a full appreciation of the park, especially the wild spires of the Great Gorge along the flanks of Mt. McKinley.
No matter how you come to the park—staying on the bus, flying over the peaks in a small plane, or hiking across the tussocks of the tundra on a route that takes you days away from the nearest person—exploring Denali offers rich rewards: wilderness solitude, a sense of discovery, amazing wildlife encounters, and a chance to truly appreciate the scale, the mystery, and the grandeur of this landscape.
Geology and Terrain
The most prominent geological feature of the park is the Alaska Range, a 600-mile-long crescent of mountains that separates Southcentral Alaska from the Interior. Mt. Hunter (14,573 feet), Mt. Foraker (17,400 feet), and Mt. McKinley (20,320 feet) are the mammoths of the group. Glaciers flow from the entire Alaska Range.
Another, smaller group of mountains—the Outer Range, north of Denali’s park road—is a mix of volcanics and heavily metamorphosed sediments. Though not as breathtaking as the Alaska Range, the Outer Range is popular with hikers and backpackers because its summits and ridges are not as technically difficult to reach.
Several of Denali’s most spectacular landforms are deep in the park, but are still visible from the park road. The multicolor volcanic rocks at Cathedral Mountain and Polychrome Pass reflect the vivid hues of the American Southwest. The braided channels of glacially fed streams such as the Teklanika, Toklat, and McKinley rivers serve as highway routes for both animals and hikers. The debris- and tundra-covered ice of the Muldrow Glacier, one of the largest glaciers to flow out of Denali National Park’s high mountains, is visible from Eielson Visitor Center, at Mile 66 of the park road. Wonder Lake, a narrow kettle pond that’s a remnant from Alaska’s ice ages, lies at Mile 85, just a few miles from the former gold-boom camp of Kantishna.
Top Reasons to Go
Backcountry hiking: Getting off the road system and into the park’s managed units allows for a true wilderness experience, limited only by time and the strength of your legs. For on-trail hiking try Savage River or Mt. Healy Overlook Trail.
Denali flightseeing: Soar over river valleys and up glaciers to the slopes of Denali to see the continent’s wildest scenery. Some tours also offer landings on Ruth Glacier.
Sled-dog demonstrations: Watch half-hour demonstrations at the nation’s oldest working dogsled kennel. Since the 1920s, sled dogs have been hauling rangers and workers to Denali’s interior.
Rafting trip: Experience Denali in its wild rapids or serene flat water.
Bus to Wonder Lake: It takes all day, but your chances of spotting wildlife are excellent. And from Wonder Lake the view of the massive slopes of Mt. McKinley—Denali—is something you’ll never forget.
Getting Oriented
Denali National Park is located 120 miles south of Fairbanks and 240 miles north of Anchorage on the George Parks Highway. More than 6 million acres of wilderness, Denali National Park and Preserve is the heart of Alaska: the biggest mountains, the wildest rivers, and so much wildlife you’ll probably end up frying your camera trying to capture it all. Founded in 1917 as Mt. McKinley National Park (despite the fact that the park’s then borders went right through the mountain), government caught up with thousands of years of Native tradition and renamed the park Denali in 1980. One road in, the tallest mountain on the continent, and endless possibilities, await you.
What’s Where
The Entrance. Just outside the park you’ll find a strip of hotels, restaurants, and shops; just inside the park are the official visitor center, the least scenic campsites in Denali, and a level of chaos that does not reflect the park’s amazing beauty. Just put all this at your back as soon as you can.
Eielson Visitor Center. Deep in the heart of the park, near a favored caribou trail, Eielson offers great mountain views and sweeping vistas of glaciated landscape. If you can’t make it to Wonder Lake, at least make it here.
The Mountain. Call it Mt. McKinley or Denali or just “the Mountain.” It’s the highest spot on the continent, a double-edged peak that draws more than 1,000 climbers a year. Fewer than half make it to the top, but that’s okay: it’s easy enough to enjoy the view from below.
Wonder Lake. The end of the road for most vehicles, the lake is a full day’s ride on one of the park buses. For your time, when the weather allows, you get the best view of the mountain anywhere in the park. And even when the mountain is hiding in the clouds, this is one of the prettiest stretches of landscape in the world.
Denali Planner
When to Go
Denali’s main season runs mid-May through early September. About 90% of travelers come in these months, and with good reason: warmish weather, long days, and all the facilities are open. Shoulder seasons (early May and late September) can be incredibly beautiful in the park, with few people around; plus, you can often drive your own car a fair way down the park road, since the buses don’t run. In winter the only way into the park is on skis or snowshoes or by dogsled. You’ll have the place almost entirely to yourself—most of the businesses at the park entrance are closed—and if you’re comfortable in deep snow and freezing weather, there is no better time to see Denali.
Timing
You can do a bus tour of the park in a single day. Allow for all day, and try to go at least as far as Eielson Visitor Center. If you can, go out to Wonder Lake. A few buses go a few miles farther to Kantishna, but the views from Wonder Lake are better; there’s no reason to go those last miles unless you’re staying at one of the inholding lodges.
If you have more than a single day, the best thing to do is camp in the park. The longer you stay deeper in the park, the better chance you’ll have of seeing Mt. McKinley, which, on average, is only visible one day out of three. Again, Wonder Lake is the spot of choice.
It’s also easy to fill a day around the park entrance, taking rafting trips on the Nenana River or going on some of the short hikes near the visitor center.
No matter how much time you have, plan ahead. Bus and campsite reservations are available for the summer season beginning December 1. TIP Reserve tickets for buses ahead of time; call the numbers provided here or log on to www.reservedenali.com. Although you can often just walk up and get on something, it may not be the experience you’re after. Advance planning makes for the best trips.
Getting Here and Around
Bus Travel
Only one road penetrates Denali’s expansive wilderness: the 92-mile Denali Park Road, which winds from the park entrance to Wonder Lake (as far as the regular buses go) and on the inholding of Kantishna, the historic mining district in the heart of the park, where there are a couple of private lodges. The first 15 miles of the road are paved and open to all vehicles, but beyond the checkpoint at Savage River access is limited to tour buses, special permit holders, and the community members of Kantishna. To get around the park, you need to get on one of the buses or start hiking. Campers with permits for the Teklanika campground can drive to and back out from their campsites at Mile 29, but they cannot tour the park road in their vehicles.
Car Travel
The park is 120 miles south of Fairbanks, or 240 miles north of Anchorage, on the George Parks Highway, which is the most common access route.
There is a second, seldom-used road to the park: the Denali Highway leads from Paxon, which is accessible from the Richardson Highway (which connects Fairbanks and Valdez) to Cantwell, coming out just south of the park entrance. This 134-mile road is mostly unpaved, with few services. Only people with high-clearance cars should try it. The Denali Highway is closed in winter.
Mountain Bike Travel
Mountain bikes are allowed anywhere on the park road, although you should check with officials before pedaling out; you need to know if there has been a wolf kill or a lot of bear sightings by the road that might limit access.
Train Travel
For those who don’t want to drive, Denali National Park is a regular stop on the Alaska Railroad’s Anchorage–Fairbanks route. The railway sells packages that combine train travel with hotels and trips into the park. There are great views along the way, especially when crossing the Hurricane Gulch Bridge, and the train is a lovely, comfortable way to travel. The final approach to the park is much prettier by train than via car.
Health and Safety
Even if you’re not hiking, carry durable rain gear made of a breathable material, and dress in layers. Good, sturdy, broken-in hiking boots, a hat, and warm gloves are a must, as are polypropylene long underwear and layers of wool or fleece for hikers. Avoid cotton. Bring insect repellent, binoculars, and a camera. Park water isn’t safe to drink, and past the park entrance there’s no food except what you bring in yourself. If camping or hiking, don’t forget to bring a mandatory bear-proof food container or borrow one from the park headquarters.
Park Essentials
Admission to Denali is $10 per person for a seven-day entrance permit. The park never closes. There may not be anybody around to accept the admission fee in deep winter, but the gates are always open. Don’t count on cell-phone reception past the first mile or two beyond the visitor center.
Restaurants
For eating inside the park, your only option is what you carry in—and don’t forget the bear-proof food container (available at the visitor center). Just outside the park entrance, in summer, there are dozens of restaurants to choose from. In winter, do what the few year-rounders do: get your groceries in Fairbanks or Anchorage. Really. Prices in the reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner is not served, at lunch.
Hotels
There are plenty of options right outside the park entrance, but don’t expect to find anything open in winter. Prices in the reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season.
Tours
Don’t be alarmed by the crowded park entrance; that gets left behind very quickly. After the chaos of private businesses that line the George Parks Highway and the throngs at the visitor center, there’s pretty much nothing else in the park but wilderness. From the bus you’ll have the opportunity to see Denali’s wildlife in natural settings, as the animals are habituated to the road and vehicles, and go about their daily routine with little bother. In fact, the animals really like the road: it’s easier for them to walk along it than to work through the tundra and tussocks.
Bus trips take time. The maximum speed limit is 35 mph, and the buses don’t hit that very often. Add in rest stops, wildlife sightings, and slowdowns for passing, and it’s an 8- to 11-hour day to reach the heart of the park and the best Denali views from Miles 62–85. Buses run from May 20 to September 13, although if you’re running up close against one of those dates, call to make sure.TIP If you decide to tour the park by bus, you have two choices: a sightseeing bus tour offered by a park concessionaire or a ride on the shuttle bus. The differences between the two are significant.
Tour buses.
Tour buses offer a guided introduction to the park. Advance reservations are required for the tour buses and are recommended for the park shuttles. Reservations for the following season become available on December 1, so if you have only a small window to see Denali, plan far ahead. If you’re not organized enough to think six months or more out, you can usually get on the bus of your choice with less than a week’s notice—and you can almost always get on a shuttle bus within a day or two—but try not to count on that. Work as far ahead as you can to avoid disappointment.
Rides through the park include a four-and-a-half- to five-hour Natural History Tour ($79.50) a seven- to eight-hour Tundra Wilderness Tour ($128.50), and an 11- to 12-hour Kantishna Experience ($175). These prices include the park entrance fee, and kids are half price. Trips are fully narrated by the driver-guides and include a snack or box lunch and hot drinks. Although the Natural History Tour lasts five hours, it goes only 17 miles into the park (2 miles beyond the private-vehicle turnaround), emphasizing Denali’s human and natural history. Do not take this tour if you want the best wildlife- or Mt. McKinley–viewing opportunities. You might see a moose or two but not much else. The Tundra Wilderness Tour is a great way to go for a fun, thorough introduction to the park, but if it leaves you wanting more, the Kantishna Experience travels the entire length of the road, features an interpretive guide and ranger, lunch, and some walking. For an experience that combines bus travel and a short, guided hike, take the Windows into Wilderness Tour ($109.25). The trip goes out to the Teklanika but at Mile 12, the Mountain Vista Trailhead, you’ll take a 90-minute hike along an easy ¾-mile trail, led by a science educator and an Athabascan cultural interpreter. Note, though, that none of the tours allows you to leave the bus without the group or to travel independently through the park. | 800/622–7275, 907/272–7275 in Alaska or outside U.S. | www.reservedenali.com.
Shuttle buses.
The park’s own shuttle buses don’t include a formal interpretive program or food and drink. TIP They’re less expensive, and you can get off the bus and take a hike or just stop and sightsee almost anywhere you like, then catch another bus along the road. Most of the drivers are well versed in the park’s features and will point out plant, animal, and geological sights. The shuttles are less formal than the tour buses, and generally less comfortable (converted school buses). They do stop to watch and photograph wildlife, but with a schedule to keep, time is sometimes limited. Shuttle-bus round-trip fares are $27 to the Toklat River at Mile 53; $34.50 to Eielson Visitor Center at Mile 66; and $47.25 to Wonder Lake at Mile 85. They also run a shuttle to Kantishna, for $51.50; the trip takes about 13 hours. Kids 15 and under ride free on the shuttles; shuttle bus prices do not include the $10 park admission fee.
Also, obviously, the farther out you’re going, the earlier in the day you’ll need to be starting; the last bus for Wonder Lake leaves at 10:15 am; the last one for Toklat, at 5 pm. Check with the park for the current schedule.
If you decide to get off the shuttle bus and explore the tundra, just tell the driver ahead of time where you’d like to get out. Some areas are closed to hiking, so check with the rangers at the visitor center before you decide where to go. Some areas are closed permanently, such as Sable Pass, which is heavily traveled by bears; others close as conditions warrant, such as when there’s been a wolf kill nearby.
When it’s time to catch a ride back, just stand next to the road and wait; it’s seldom more than 30 minutes or so between buses. The drivers stop if there is room on board. However, during the mid- and late-summer peak season, an hour or more may pass between stopping buses, as they are more likely to be full. Be prepared to split up if you are in a big group in order to fit on crowded buses during peak times. As always in Alaska, make sure you bring layers and rain gear to make delays and weather changes easier to wait out. | 800/622–7275, 907/272–7275 | www.reservedenali.com.
Camper buses.
These buses serve permitted backpackers and those staying in campgrounds along the road. Seats in the back of the bus are removed for gear storage and there is no formal narration, although the bus drivers aren’t likely to let you miss anything important. The $34.50 pass includes transportation anywhere down the road as far as Wonder Lake for the length of the backpacker’s stay; kids 15 and under are free. Tell the driver ahead of time where you’d like to get out. | 800/622–7275, 907/272–7275 | www.reservedenali.com.
Visitor Information
Park Contact Information
Denali National Park Headquarters. | 907/683–9532 for info | www.nps.gov/dena | All but Riley Creek (no visitor facilities) closed mid-Sept.–late May.
Visitor Centers
FAMILY | Denali Education Center.
Situated on 10 acres of forest across from Denali National Park, this nonprofit offers intensive learning experiences that range from a variety of all-inclusive weeklong Road Scholar programs to weeklong youth programs, including hands-on research in conjunction with the National Park Service or backpacking trips for high-schoolers. On the first weekend of August the center sponsors the Fundraising Auction. The festival draws in hundreds of people and thousands of articles for sale, all for a fantastic cause. Pros: located on 10 acres; nature trail where you can search for owls; quality educational and immersion experiences. Cons: no longer renting cabins to solo travelers; groups only. | Mile 231, George Parks Hwy., Box 212 | 907/683–2597 | www.denali.org | 12 cabins | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May.
Denali Visitor Center.
The Denali Visitor Center exhibits beautiful displays about the park’s natural and cultural history, and holds regular showings of The Heartbeats of Denali in the Karstens Theater. In addition, the center offers a wide variety of interpretive programs and a chance to browse the nearby Denali Bookstore, a great source for wildlife guides, birding guides, and picture books; send some to relatives to make them jealous of your trip. While the park itself is open year-round with limited vehicle access, everything is up and running from mid-May through mid-September. | 907/683–9532 | www.nps.gov/dena.
Eielson Visitor Center.
At Mile 66 on the Park Road is the Eielson Visitor Center, the park’s pride and joy. LEED certified as a green building, Eielson offers amazing views of the mountain, the glaciers, and what happens to a landscape when glaciers go away. Inside is the usual interpretive material. Starting around the beginning of June, the center offers a daily guided walk, the Eielson Stroll, at 1 pm, an easy 45-minute exploration of the landscape. Another daily ranger-led experience, the two-mile Eielson Alpine Hike, takes on a little rougher terrain. Guided hikes vary from day to day to minimize the impact on the surroundings. Guided snowshoe walks are also offered January–March on Saturday and Sunday, weather permitting. | Mile 66, Park Rd. | www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/the-eielson-visitor-center.htm | June–mid-Sept. daily 9–7.
Murie Science and Learning Center.
Next to the Denali Visitor Center, Murie Science and Learning Center is the foundation of the park’s science-based education programs, and also serves as the winter visitor center when the Denali Visitor Center is closed. This center has basic but good displays, and is a good option when the main visitor center is closed. During off-season camping at the Riley Campground, it’s the go-to spot for ranger information and, yes, bathrooms with running water. | Mile 1.5, Park Rd. | 907/683–1269 | www.murieslc.org.
Wilderness Access Center.
The Wilderness Access Center near the park’s entrance at Mile 237.3, George Parks Highway, is where you can handle reservations for park campgrounds and bus trips into the park. There’s also a coffee stand—your last chance for a cup of joe unless you bring the makings for campsite coffee with you. A smaller building nearby is the Backcountry Information Center, for those visitors who want to travel and stay overnight in the wilderness. The Backcountry Information Center has backcountry permits and hiking information, including current data on animal sightings (remember the whole park is bear territory), river-crossing conditions, weather, and closed areas. The center is closed in winter (mid-September through mid-May). TIP Free permits are required for overnight backpacking trips, but you won’t need one for day hiking. | Mile 0.5, Park Rd. | 907/683–9274.
Plants and Wildlife in Denali
Thirty-seven species of mammals reside in the park, from wolves and bears to little brown bats and pygmy shrews that weigh a fraction of an ounce. The park also has a surprisingly large avian population in summer, with 167 identified species. Most of the birds migrate in fall, leaving only two dozen year-round resident species, including ravens, boreal chickadees, and hawk owls. Some of the summer birds travel thousands of miles to nest and breed in subarctic valleys, hills, and ponds. The northern wheatear migrates from southern Asia, warblers arrive from Central and South America, and the arctic tern annually travels 24,000 miles while commuting between the Arctic and Antarctica.
The most sought-after species among visitors are the large mammals: grizzlies, wolves, Dall sheep, moose, and caribou. All inhabit the forest or tundra landscape that surrounds Denali Park Road. You can expect to see Dall sheep finding their way across high meadows and peppering distant mountain tops (look for the tiny white dots), grizzlies and caribou frequenting stream bottoms and tundra, moose in the forested areas both near the park entrance and deep in the park, and the occasional wolf or fox that may dart across the road.
Vegetation in the park consists largely of taiga and tundra. Taiga is coniferous forest in moist areas below a tree line of 2,700 feet and consists mainly of white and black spruce trees. Due to the layer of permafrost that lies just under the surface of the land, the trees have shallow root systems. This means they are very susceptible to wind and weather conditions, and it’s not at all unusual to see entire sections of forest, usually black spruce, leaning to one side, or leaning every which way like a bunch of jackstraws. Called a “drunken forest,” the lean comes from trees trying to make their home in permafrost that thaws, freezes, and thaws again, shifting the soil right under the roots. Ground cover in the taiga forest includes dwarf birch, blueberry, and willow shrubs.
The rest of the landmass not covered by ice and snow is carpeted by tundra, consisting of a variety of delicate plants such as lichens, berries, bright wildflowers, and woody plants. This complex carpet of low-lying vegetation generates brilliant color, especially in August, when the fall weather begins. Take a really close look at tundra: it’s like being a giant and looking down on a forest, it’s all so perfect and detailed and tiny. A single square foot of tundra can hold 40 or 50 different species. The park as a whole contains more than 650 species of flowering plant, plus who knows how many mosses, fungi, and lichen. While you’re busy watching for moose and bears, don’t forget to check out the plants.