Chapter 12

THE MATCHLESS TOMATO

Corn may be the bastion of Appalachian foodstuffs, thanks to its incredible versatility, but tomatoes arguably come a close second when viewed from the perspective of just how welcome they are in the regional diet. They come in a variety of shapes, tastes and textures, not to mention almost infinite varieties. There are paste tomatoes and taste-laced tommytoes (the mountain name for miniature or cherry tomatoes); heirloom varieties and canning tomatoes; determinate or indeterminate growth patterns; and colors ranging from cream to almost black with pink, yellow and even striped versions figuring in the overall picture. They form the basis for countless dishes, from soups to stews and from Tex-Mex to Mediterranean cuisine; can make a simple sandwich a sampling of culinary heaven; lend themselves to canning, drying or freezing; can be eaten green as well as ripe; form a basic ingredient in various types of relish and pickles; and much, much more.

No mountain garden is complete without a row or two of stakes supporting tomatoes, and no cookbook on the region can overlook this favorite foodstuff. The recipes shared here are but a tiny sampling of ways in which tomatoes can be prepared and served. “Maters” are so much a part of Appalachian foodways that it is difficult to conceive of going more than a day or two without them figuring into the menu in one fashion or another.

A basket of Lemon Boy tomatoes. Jim Casada.

Old-Time Tomato Sandwich

Including a recipe for a sandwich may seem an exercise in the obvious, but there are few things more satisfying than this one. A tomato sandwich made with a still-warm tomato fresh from the garden is a mighty fine thing. The first tomato sandwich of the summer is an annual cause for celebration in the mountains of Appalachia.

Light bread

Mayonnaise

Salt

Pepper

Garden-fresh tomato slices

TIP: Variations on this most basic of homemade sandwiches are numerous—add bacon or bacon and lettuce, adorn with a slice of cheese, substitute a thin layer of pimiento cheese for mayonnaise and the like.

—Tipper Pressley

Canning tomatoes for the coming months. Katie Pressley.

Granny’s Tomato-Cucumber Salad

Tomato, diced

Onion, diced

Cucumber, diced

Salt and pepper to taste

Toss all ingredients together in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and chill for several hours before serving. All those great flavors of summer marry together into a sort of relish. Granny always said it made all the other food on the table taste better, and I agree with her. This simple salad adds brightness to a meal that might otherwise be bland.

TIP: A dash of apple cider vinegar gives this salad an additional kick.

—Tipper Pressley

Granny’s tomato and cucumber salad. Tipper Pressley.

Tomato Salsa

In the heat of summer, when tomatoes are abundant but thoughts of dealing with an oven or stove cause dismay, here’s a grand way to use fresh tomatoes.

2 or 3 large tomatoes, diced

¼ cup finely chopped chives

½ cup pimento stuffed olives, chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Combine the ingredients in a plastic or glass bowl, whisk gently and let stand in the refrigerator for 30 to 45 minutes.

TIP: Fresh mozzarella makes a nice addition to this salsa, and the pairing forms an ideal accompaniment to grilled burgers.

—Jim Casada

Grilled Tomatoes

Cut away the bottom end of your favorite tomato (to my way of thinking, you can’t beat a Cherokee Purple), remove any core that is left and place top-side down on a barbecue grill or in the oven. Once the tomato starts to sizzle, sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan cheese and continue cooking until the cheese melts and shows a bit of brown.

—Jim Casada

Homemade Marinara Sauce

90 small tomatoes or 60 medium tomatoes

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 medium onions

7 medium garlic cloves, minced

Large handful fresh oregano and basil (or 1 tablespoon each dried)

¼ cup sugar

2½ tablespoons kosher salt (or to taste)

Lots of fresh ground pepper (to taste)

Blanch and peel the tomatoes. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until translucent. Add the remaining ingredients and bring the sauce to a boil. After it reaches a boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 2 hours or until nicely thickened. With a blender or immersion blender, blend the tomatoes on a low setting until smooth. Use at once or freeze for future meals.

Marinara sauce made with homegrown tomatoes may not look quite as red as store-bought versions, but it far outshines them when it comes to taste. It’s a great way to use surplus tomatoes, and come cold weather, you’ll relish spaghetti, chicken Parmesan, pizza, ziti or any of dozens of other dishes calling for marinara sauce. For that matter, a nice serving of pasta and marinara sauce makes mighty fine eating.

—Jim Casada

Tomato Dill Soup

1 stick butter

1½ large onions, pureed in a food processor

¼ cup minced fresh garlic

1½ teaspoons dried dill

¼ tablespoon kosher salt

⅛ tablespoon black pepper

9 cups (2 28-ounce cans plus 1 14½-ounce can) tomatoes (crushed or diced)

3 cups water

2 cups heavy cream (a pint of half-and-half with some whole milk added will also work)

Place butter, onions, garlic, dill, salt and black pepper in a large pot and cover. Sauté on low heat until onions are translucent. Add tomatoes and water. Simmer for 1 to 2 hours. Remove from heat and blend in cream.

—Jim Casada

Tomato Topper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon dried basil

Salt and pepper to taste

4 fresh tomatoes, finely chopped

1 sweet onion, finely chopped

Mix olive oil, lemon juice, basil, salt and pepper with a wire whisk and pour atop diced tomatoes and onion. Toss and serve atop burgers, as a topping for toast points or as a side dish.

—Jim Casada

Tomato Pie

6 to 8 tomatoes

Salt

2 cups sharp cheddar (Cabot Seriously Sharp is a good choice)

¾ cup real mayonnaise

1 small onion, sautéed in oil

Fresh basil

Pre-baked individual phyllo shells

Slice tomatoes fairly thin and lay them atop paper towels. Salt the tops and let sit 10 minutes before patting dry.

For the topping, shred cheddar, then mix with mayonnaise, adding salt and pepper to taste (remember that the tomatoes have been salted, and even though the patting will remove some of it, a salty tang will remain). In each phyllo shell, layer tomatoes, then onion and basil, then another tomato layer and spread topping to fill shell to the top. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 or so minutes or until done.

—Jim Casada