Chapter 17

FRUITS FROM THE WILD

The fields and woodlands of Appalachia abound in fruits. Among the most widespread are persimmons and pawpaws, but wild plums, wild apricots, meat from honey locust pods and fruit from mulberry trees also merit consideration. These can be used in a wide variety of ways—fresh, in desserts, dried and canned or frozen for cooking weeks or months down the road.

Persimmon Bread

Persimmons grow wild across most of the southern Appalachians and, when fully ripe, form the basis of wonderful puddings. They are also delicious in sweet breads such as this offering.

3½ cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking soda

Pinch (maybe ½ teaspoon) nutmeg or allspice

2 cups sugar

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

4 large eggs, lightly whisked

⅔ cup bourbon (a cheap brand is fine)

2 brimming cups persimmon pulp (fruits should be squishy ripe, and incidentally, pulp freezes well)

2 cups chopped and lightly toasted pecans or English walnuts

2 cups chopped dried fruit such as apricots, raisins, yellow raisins or dates

Preheat oven to 350. Butter a pair of loaf pans or use nonstick pans. Sift flour, salt, baking soda, spice and sugar into a large plastic mixing bowl. Whisk in the butter, eggs, bourbon and persimmon pulp until thoroughly mixed. Whisk in nuts and dried fruit. Place batter in pans and slide into preheated oven. Cooking time varies depending on the type of pan used. Check periodically as bread begins to brown by inserting a toothpick. When it comes out clean, the bread is ready.

NOTE: Once cooled, wrap to maintain moistness. The bread will keep several days (but likely be eaten much sooner), and it freezes well.

—Jim Casada

Comparing the sizes of an Oriental persimmon and a wild one. Jim Casada.

Persimmon Pudding

2 cups persimmon pulp (if you don’t want the considerable work associated with readying wild ones, get the huge, seedless Oriental persimmons)

2 cups brown sugar, packed

¼ cup butter, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla

1½ cups self-rising flour

½ cup light cream or whole milk

2 eggs, beaten

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ cup raisins or black walnuts (optional)

Combine all ingredients and beat just until well mixed. Pour into a greased 9" × 13" pan and bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown and just beginning to pull away from the sides. Remove from oven and cool slightly before cutting into squares. Serve with whipped cream.

NOTE: This is an exceptionally rich dish, and once you taste it, ready awareness of why persimmons are sometimes called “nature’s candy” dawns.

—Jim Casada

A group spreading a picnic during an outing at Heintooga. Courtesy of Hunter Library, Western Carolina University.

Pawpaw Pudding

1 cup pawpaw pulp with all seeds removed

1¼ cups sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ cup melted butter (the real thing)

1 teaspoon ginger (optional)

3 eggs

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

2½ teaspoons cinnamon

½ teaspoon nutmeg

Strain the pawpaw pulp using a plastic sieve. Mix it with the rest of the ingredients and bake in a well-greased pan for approximately 1 hour at 350 degrees (when done, it will begin to pull away from the sides of the pan). Cool and cut into squares.

—Jim Casada

A cluster of pawpaws at harvesttime. Jim Casada.