Chapter 27

TO QUENCH ONE’S THIRST

While nothing quite matches the elixir that is cold water from a mountain spring, Appalachian folks enjoy their cup of coffee of a morning as well as other beverages. That’s especially true of those with a hint of sweetness. Here are a few, including a couple of old-timey ones, that fit the bill.

Granny’s Hot Chocolate

½ tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons cocoa

1 cup milk

Combine all ingredients in small pot and heat.

Alternatively, make it in a microwave. Add sugar and cocoa to a cup. Stir in 1 tablespoon of hot water until smooth. Add milk, stir well and heat in a microwave.

—Tipper Pressley

Granny’s hot chocolate. Corie Graddick.

Russian Tea

At Christmas, Momma always made a big batch—or maybe two or three of them—of this seasonal delight. It was served at family gatherings, to visitors who just happened to drop by, at church functions and just as a refreshing hot drink on a cold winter’s day.

½ teaspoon cloves

1 cup sugar

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 gallon water

1 tall can orange juice concentrate

Extra sugar, if desired

Bring these ingredients to a boil and continue for five minutes. Then add:

1 pint tea (steep 4 tea bags in 1 pint of boiling water for 5 minutes)

¾ cup fresh lemon juice

1 tall can (32 ounces) pineapple juice

1 quart apple cider (optional)

1½ cups fresh orange juice

The quantities of juice can be varied if you prefer one taste to another. This recipe will make 20 generous helpings, and leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator and reheated as desired. Grandpa Joe would sasser a piping hot cup of this (he called it “Rooshian” tea), slurp with obvious delight and declare, “My, that’s some kind of fine.”

—Jim Casada

Pouring out a mug of Russian tea. Tipper Pressley.

Float

1 quart milk

4 large eggs

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla

Pour milk in a large saucepot and allow it to warm on medium heat. While milk is heating, mix eggs, sugar and vanilla in a bowl. Add part of the warm milk to the egg mixture to temper the eggs. Stir well and pour back in pot. Continue to stir and heat mixture until it reaches 175 degrees on a candy thermometer or until the mixture thickens slightly (it won’t get very thick). If you end up with any scrambled egg pieces in the float, you can strain them out. Pour float in a jar and chill before serving.

TIP: A dusting of nutmeg can be sprinkled on top just before serving.

—Tipper Pressley

Float. Tipper Pressley.

Birch Tea

In the spring of the year, tap a birch tree to extract the sap. It will be very clear and look like water. Combine sap with an equal amount of water and heat to boiling. Sweeten with sugar or honey. May be served hot or cold.

TIP: All birch tree sap is edible.

—Tipper Pressley

Maypop Tea

Maypops grow wild throughout the Appalachian Mountains. They are sometimes called wild apricots or passion fruits. They are best harvested when the green, egg-like outer covering or shell begins to fade in color and become wrinkled and soft. The fruit is easily harvested and is often eaten right where it grows by opening the hull and scooping out the sweet/tart goodness within. The pulp and seeds are both edible, although the seeds are rather crunchy. Young children in Appalachia have been known to stomp the fruit to hear the popping sound the fruit makes as it bursts.

To make maypop tea, scoop out pulp from ripe fruit and cook in water for 5 minutes. Strain and enjoy. Sugar may be added to water to increase the sweetness of the drink.

—Tipper Pressley

Lemonade

Lemons

Water

Sugar

Granny didn’t make lemonade often, but when she did, the day seemed to be extra special. My brother Paul and I would run around the kitchen hurrahing and clapping for the cold, delicious beverage Granny set on the table for us.

When I first decided to make a pitcher of Granny’s lemonade, I called her and asked for the recipe. She said: “Goodness, I don’t have a recipe. Just bring some sugar and water to a boil, cut some lemons and put them in your pitcher, pour the sugar water over them, fill the pitcher the rest of the way with water, and let it sit for a while.”

—Tipper Pressley

Mint Lemonade

Lemons

Sugar

Fresh sprigs of mint

Squeeze lemons, and if the fruit has seeds, run the juice through a sieve to remove them. Add to water and sweeten to taste. The refreshing infusion of mint can be accomplished in two ways—by placing a number of bruised or gently crushed mint leaves in the pitcher holding the lemonade or by adorning each glass, as it is served, with a couple of leaves. That enables each individual to decide how much mint flavor they want.

—Jim Casada

Syllabub

Syllabub is an alcoholic beverage traditionally associated with Christmas and New Year’s but suitable for festive occasions any time of the year. Its appearance definitely enhances the drink’s appeal.

1 quart cream

½ pint sweet wine, with the peel of 2 lemons steeped in it for at least an hour (homemade elderberry wine has long been a favorite among old-time mountain folks and works well in making syllabub)

½ pint apple brandy (Madeira can be substituted)

Juice of 2 lemons (use peel to steep in wine)

Pinch powdered allspice

Sugar to taste

Whisk all the ingredients together in a large glass bowl, stirring vigorously until froth begins to rise. Skim away the froth, saving in a separate bowl, and continue whisking. Fill glasses halfway or a bit more with liquid and then top with froth. This is something of a novelty but is mighty tasty in the bargain.

—Jim Casada

Sassafras Tea

1 cup small sassafras roots, thoroughly washed and pounded with a meat hammer or similar tool until well broken up and yielding their spicy scent

½ cinnamon stick

6 cups cold water

3 tablespoons honey

Put the crushed roots and cinnamon in a saucepan with the water and bring to a rolling boil. Decrease the heat and simmer for fifteen minutes. Pour the tea through a fine strainer (cheesecloth topped by a coffee filter works just dandy) and then add the honey and stir it in. The beverage can be drunk hot or poured over crushed ice.

—Jim Casada