Chapter 7

MEAT FROM NATURE’S LARDER

In yesteryear, especially in the leanest of times, hardy Appalachian folks gladly supplemented the domestic meat portion of their diet with wild game and fish. Prior to the sad demise of that giant of eastern forests, the American chestnut, squirrels were incredibly abundant. Other small game, notably rabbits and birds (to the uninitiated, birds referred to quail, while grouse were variously known as pottiges or pheasants), was plentiful in many areas. Even songbirds were utilized. Jim’s Grandpa Joe Casada loved to ruminate on trapping snowbirds (juncos) by the dozens and eating them in bird pies. In more remote regions, prior to being all but extirpated, deer and wild turkeys provided welcome provender, and one of the interesting aspects of modern conservation efforts is the manner in which those two species have made major comebacks and thus have once more become prominent on many an Appalachian table.

Anna Lou’s Squirrel

2 squirrels, dressed

Water to cover meat

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 tablespoons butter

A wee youngster holds a brace of cottontails, obviously killed or trapped by a family member, that are destined for the family table. Courtesy of Hunter Library, Western Carolina University.

Place squirrels in large saucepan. Cover with cold water, add baking soda and heat to boiling. Remove from heat and rinse squirrels well under cold, running water, rubbing to remove soda. Return to pan and cover with fresh water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until tender. Place squirrels in a baking dish, dot with butter and bake at 350 degrees until browned and crusty (usually 10 to 15 minutes).

This was my Mom’s (her name was Anna Lou) favorite way to cook squirrel. You can prepare rabbit in the same fashion.

—Jim Casada

Rabbit with Lima Beans

2 rabbits, dressed and cut into pieces

Flour, salt and pepper

¼ pound bacon

2 cups dried lima beans, looked and then soaked overnight

1 onion, chopped

2 celery ribs, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 cups boiling hot water

1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup sliced okra

3 potatoes, diced

2 cups frozen corn

2 (16-ounce) cans stewed tomatoes

1 bay leaf

Dash thyme and parsley

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)

Dredge rabbit pieces in flour, salt and pepper mixture. In Dutch oven, fry bacon and remove. Brown rabbit in bacon drippings, then return bacon and add lima beans, onion, celery and carrots, covering with boiling water. Simmer for two hours, adding water if necessary. The meat can be removed from the bones at this point, if you wish. Add remaining ingredients and simmer for an hour longer or until rabbit and vegetables are tender. If desired, thicken with flour-and-water paste and adjust seasonings. Serves 6 to 8 and is a good way to stretch out a couple of rabbits.

TIP: This recipe works equally well with squirrels.

—Jim Casada

Fried Quail

Except for hunting preserves and some quite special (and costly) situations involving intensive management, quail belong to a world we have lost. Yet they were once a special item in Appalachian diet, and it is still possible to hunt the birds great outdoor writer Havilah Babcock once described as “five ounces of feathered dynamite” in release situations. The culinary aftermath of such outings can be pure delight, thanks to recipes such as this one.

1 cup red wine

1 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

16 dressed quail

3 cups self-rising flour

¼ cup seasoned salt

Vegetable oil for deep frying

Mix the wine, olive oil and garlic. Add the quail and marinate, refrigerated, for 4 to 6 hours. Combine the flour and seasoned salt. Drain the quail and coat in the flour/salt mixture. Deep fry in 350-degree oil for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

TIP: The quantities in recipe can be halved, and if you like a bit of “bite,” add some black pepper or red pepper flakes to the flour and salt.

—Jim Casada

Apple Quail

¼ cup flour

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

⅛ teaspoon paprika

6 dressed quail

2 tablespoons butter

¼ cup sweet onion, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

1 cup apple juice

Mix flour, salt and paprika; lightly flour quail pieces. Melt butter in heavy frying pan and brown quail. Push quail to one side of the pan. Add onion and sauté until tender (add 1 tablespoon of additional butter if needed). Add parsley, thyme and apple juice. Stir to mix well and spoon juice over quail while bringing all to a boil. Then reduce heat, cover and simmer until quail are tender (about an hour). Serve quail on a bed of rice or grits with sautéed apples on the side.

—Jim Casada

Wild Turkey Tenders

1 egg

1 tablespoon water

1 pound wild turkey breast, cut into strips (cut across the grain)

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup canola oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

Beat egg with water. Dredge turkey strips in flour, dip in egg mixture and then dredge again in flour. Fry in canola oil in a cast-iron skillet until brown and tender. Serve immediately.

Fried turkey tenders just out of the skillet drain prior to being served. Jim Casada.

TIP: If the turkey is not tender (and an old gobbler likely won’t be), pound with a meat hammer before frying or else cover and steam a few minutes after you have browned the strips. They will not be as crisp with the latter approach.

—Jim Casada

Mustard-Fried Venison Steak

1 pound venison steak, cubed

½ cup prepared mustard, such as French’s

⅔ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons canola oil

Brush each piece of cubed steak on both sides with mustard. Place flour and salt in a bag and then shake to mix. Add half of steak to bag and shake well to coat thoroughly. Repeat. Heat oil in a nonstick pan or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet and add floured steak. Cook until golden brown, turning only once. Do not overcook—meat should be pink in the middle when removed from the pan. Serve immediately. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

NOTE: Quantities can be doubled (or more), and steak cut into bite-size bits make a dandy hors d’oeuvre.

—Jim Casada

Venison Hot Dog/Burger/Sloppy Joe Chili

1 pound ground venison

⅓ cup chopped onion

1 package Sauer’s Chili Seasoning (or use your own)

⅓ cup water

1 (8-ounce) can tomato paste

Brown venison and onion. Add seasoning package or your own personal choices, water and tomato sauce. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes until thick. Serve with hot dogs or burgers or atop a bun as a Sloppy Joe.

—Jim Casada

Venison Noodle Soup

4 cups beef broth

½ pound egg noodles or spaghetti

½ pound ground venison

¼–½ cup olive oil

2 ribs celery, chopped

1 small onion, chopped

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Garlic salt to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Chives

Parmesan cheese

Heat broth to boiling and add noodles. In a separate pan, brown venison in olive oil. Sauté celery and onion in butter. When noodles are done, add cooked venison, celery and onion to soup pot. Add garlic salt, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 10–15 minutes. Garnish with fresh chives and Parmesan cheese.

TIP: If you have leftover venison burgers, they can be chopped up and used in the soup.

—Jim Casada

Quick Venison Chili

1–2 pounds ground or chopped venison

1 large onion, chopped

1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes

1 (16-ounce) can beans (kidney or pinto), drained and rinsed

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 cup water

1 package chili seasoning

Salt and pepper to taste

Grated cheese

Chives

Crackers

Brown venison and onion. Add tomatoes, drained and rinsed beans, tomato paste, water and seasonings. Simmer 45 minutes or longer for flavors to blend. Serve hot, topped with grated cheese and chives and accompanied by crackers.

—Jim Casada

Deer Roast

Deer ham (roast)

1 stick butter

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt

Pepper

Creole seasoning mix (such as Old Bay Seasoning)

Oregano

Bacon slices, enough to cover roast

Toothpicks

Honey

Apple cider vinegar

Place deer ham in a roasting pan or other baking dish. Pour ½ inch of water around the ham. Add butter and garlic into a small pan and cook until butter is melted. Pour mixture over deer ham. Season ham with salt, pepper, Old Bay and oregano to taste. Cover ham with bacon. Toothpicks can be used to secure the bacon strips and keep them from curling up as they cook. Drizzle with honey and a dash of apple cider vinegar. Cover deer ham and bake at 220 degrees for 9 hours or until done. Since the cooking temperature is so low, cooking overnight works wonderfully.

A deer roast in a Dutch oven ready to be slow cooked to tender perfection. Tipper Pressley.

—Tipper Pressley

Grilled Deer Loin

Marinade

Makes enough for half a large tenderloin or a whole small loin.

1½ cups olive oil

1 cup Worcestershire sauce

1½ teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons black pepper

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon oregano

1 heaping tablespoon honey

Mix well; marinate meat at least 5–6 hours. Cook to your desired doneness, basting loin throughout grilling process with marinade. Discard any leftover marinade.

—Tipper Pressley

Venison Cheeseburger Pie

1 pound ground venison

½ cup evaporated milk

½ cup ketchup

⅓ cup dry bread crumbs

¼ cup chopped onion

½ teaspoon dried oregano or two teaspoons fresh oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

1 (8-inch) prepared pie shell

1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Combine venison, milk, ketchup, bread crumbs, onion and oregano. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Prepare pastry to line an 8-inch pie plate (use a prepared shell or make your own). Fill with venison mixture. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes. Toss cheese with Worcestershire sauce; sprinkle atop pie. Bake 10 minutes more. Let stand 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

—Jim Casada

Carolina Doves

½ cup flour

Salt and pepper to taste

16 dove breasts

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

2 tablespoons canola oil

Place flour, salt and pepper in a bag. Shake doves in bag to coat well. Heat butter and oil to medium hot and brown the birds quickly on all sides. Add enough water to cover halfway up on doves. Cover the pan and simmer for 60 to 90 minutes or until doves are tender. Remove doves and thicken the gravy with a flour-and-water paste (two tablespoons flour and two tablespoons water). Serve with rice, biscuits and a green salad or fresh fruit.

—Jim Casada