Potatoes with Red Caviar

° Makes 40 hors d’oeuvres

This is delightful as an hors d’oeuvre for a special cocktail party or as a first course for a sit-down dinner. It is best while the potatoes are still warm.

There are two types of red caviar: “natural” and “red,” which has a deeper color than the natural. Good natural caviar has an eye (a darker spot inside each egg). The eggs in either variety should be separate, not part of a mushy mass. Each one should “crunch” when bitten, yet still be delicate enough to almost melt in your mouth. The caviar should have a lightly salty, nutty flavor, with no bitter aftertaste. To ensure that the caviar is of good quality, buy it at a reputable store that has a high turnover.

• 3 pounds small red potatoes (about 20)
• 1½ cups sour cream
• 12 ounces good natural or red salmon caviar (or trout caviar)
• 2 teaspoons peanut oil
• 3 tablespoons minced chives

Wash the potatoes in cool water and place them in a saucepan. Cover with water, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil gently until just tender, 20 to 22 minutes for small potatoes, longer for larger ones. Drain and set aside to cool slightly. (The heat in the potatoes will absorb any remaining moisture, producing a better-tasting potato than if they were cooled under cold water.)

When they are cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes, trim slightly on two opposite sides (to enable the halves to stand upright), and cut in half. (If using larger potatoes, cut into slices ¾ to 1 inch thick.)

Mix the oil with the caviar to make it looser and easier to serve. Place 2 teaspoons of the sour cream on each potato (or slice) and top each with a generous teaspoon of the caviar. Arrange on a tray and serve immediately, sprinkled with the chives.