Clam or Oyster and Corn Chowder

° Serves 6

I learned about New England clam chowder when I worked at Howard Johnson’s. I make my recipe with milk, but for a richer version, some cream can be added.

This chowder can be made with either oysters or clams. The key is to make the base of the soup ahead and then cook the clams or oysters and corn kernels at the last moment, just before serving. This keeps the shellfish tender and moist.

I freeze the clams or oysters for about 15 minutes in the shell to make shucking easier. After shucking, I like to “wash” the clams or oysters in their own juices: I transfer them to a clean bowl and slowly pour the juices back over them after discarding any sediment or pieces of shell in the bottom of the first bowl.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 cups thinly sliced leeks
• ½ cup water
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• 5 cups milk
• 1 tablespoon potato starch, dissolved in 3 tablespoons water
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• 1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 24 clams or oysters, shucked, juices reserved
• 2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears)
• 1 tablespoon chopped chives

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the leeks and cook for 1 minute, then stir well, add the water, and cook, uncovered, over high heat until the water has boiled away. Add the garlic and mix well, then add the milk and bring to a boil. Add the dissolved potato starch, mix well, and the soup will thicken. Turn off the heat, then add the salt and pepper. If not serving immediately, remove from the heat. (Note: This can be done a few hours ahead.)

Place the clams in the freezer for 15 minutes to help in shucking, then shuck them, placing them in a bowl with their own juices. If the clams are large, they can be halved with scissors. “Wash” them in their juices, then transfer them to a clean bowl and slowly pour the juices over them, discarding any sediment at the bottom of the first bowl.

At serving time, bring the soup back to a boil and add the corn, clams, and the clams’ juices. Mix well and bring the mixture barely to a boil, then remove from the heat. Serve immediately, sprinkled with the chives.