Pasta Primavera Ed

° Serves 4

Pasta primavera (primavera means “spring” in Italian) was conceived by my friend Ed Giobbi at New York’s Le Cirque restaurant in the 1970s. Although various vegetables have been used in the numerous adaptations that have evolved since then, at home Ed makes the dish with raw tomatoes only, flavoring them with olive oil, basil, onion, and garlic. The simple tomato-and-herb taste of this delightful first course does bring to mind a fresh spring day.

• Tomato Sauce
• 2 to 3 very ripe tomatoes (1 pound)
• 1 mild onion, such as Vidalia (about 3 ounces), peeled and chopped fine (about ⅔ cup)
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed, and chopped (1 teaspoon)
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ cup shredded basil leaves
• 1 pound spaghetti
• 2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 to 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving, if desired

Prepare the sauce: Cut the tomatoes crosswise in half, squeeze out the seeds, and cut the flesh into ¼-inch dice (you should have about 2 cups).

Place the chopped onion in a sieve and rinse it under warm tap water (this removes the strong smell and acidic taste). Drain well.

Combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, salt, pepper, olive oil, and basil in a bowl. Toss well and set aside.

When ready to serve, bring 3 to 4 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the pasta and push it below the surface of the water with a fork, stirring gently to separate the strands. Bring the water back to a boil and cook for about 10 to 12 minutes, or until as tender as you like.

When the pasta has finished cooking, remove about 1 cup of the cooking liquid and pour it into your serving bowl. Stir in the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Drain the pasta, add it to the bowl, and toss to mix well. Place the tomato mixture in the microwave for 1 minute to make it tepid.

Divide the pasta among four plates and sprinkle with the grated cheese (or pass it at the table). Spoon the sauce over the pasta and serve immediately, with extra cheese if desired.

Reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking liquid and tossing the drained pasta with it before adding the tomato sauce adds moisture and flavor.