Mussels Ravigote

° Serves 4

Ravigoter means “to invigorate,” which aptly describes the effect the piquant dressing has on the mussels in this dish. There are many reasons to serve mussels: In addition to tasting good, they are inexpensive, usually come already cleaned, and cook in just a few minutes. I don’t use the juices from the mussels here; they can be frozen for use in fish soup or fish sauces.

Serve some crusty French bread on the side.

• 2½ pounds mussels (about 36)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
• 3 tablespoons virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons Sriracha or other hot sauce
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 2 scallions, green tops discarded, cleaned and minced fine (about 2 tablespoons)
• 1 clove garlic, peeled, crushed, and chopped fine (about ½ teaspoon)
• 4 to 8 Boston lettuce leaves, for serving

Rinse the mussels in cool water. Don’t worry if there is still some incrustation on the outside of the shells, as they will be discarded. Remove any beards.

Place the mussels in a pot, cover, and cook over high heat for 6 to 8 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally, until all the mussels have opened and released their juices. Set aside, covered, to rest for about 5 minutes, then pour into a roasting pan to cool slightly.

When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove them from their shells and place them in a bowl. Discard the shells. Strain the juices into a plastic container with a tight-fitting lid (you should have about 1½ cups) and freeze for later use in soup, stock, or dishes such as BIlli Bi.

Add the remaining of the ingredients to the bowl while the mussels are still lukewarm, so they will absorb the seasonings well, and mix well. Serve at room temperature on the lettuce leaves.

Four reasons to serve mussels: They’re good, they’re inexpensive, they usually come cleaned, and they cook in a few minutes.