Baked Clams with a Bread Crust

° Serves 4 as a first course

Gloria, my wife, and I love clams on the half shell and we enjoy them throughout the year with a horseradish-ketchup sauce. Occasionally, though, I will cook the clams for linguine and clam sauce or bake them. I like baked clams with a nice crusty topping and the clams just hot, so I cook them under the broiler on the lowest shelf of the oven.

Before shucking the clams, place them in the freezer for 15 minutes to make them easier to open. Then, first cut between the two shells of each clam with a paring knife to sever the adductor muscles. Open the clams, discard the top shells, and cut the clams loose to make them easier to eat, leaving them in their bottom shells. I like the medium-size clams often called top neck.

• 24 medium clams, such as top neck
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 slices bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces or chopped coarsely
• ¾ cup chopped onion
• 2 teaspoons chopped garlic
• 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped jalapeño pepper
• 1¾ cups coarse fresh bread crumbs, preferably from a country loaf or baguette
• 2 tablespoons chopped chives

Open the clams (see headnote), discard the top shells, and cut the clams loose from the bottom shell. Place the clams in their bottom shells on a cookie sheet. Place 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a medium skillet, add the bacon, and cook over medium heat until the bacon is crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the onion, garlic, and jalapeño and cook for another minute or so, until the vegetables are soft. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the bread crumbs. Mix gently to moisten the bread with the oil. Place about 1½ tablespoons of the mixture on top of each clam.

At serving time, place a rack in the lower part of the oven (about 15 inches from the heat source) and preheat the broiler. Broil the clams for 8 to 9 minutes, until the topping is brown and crusty and the clams are hot. Sprinkle with chives and serve.