Tuna Carpaccio

° Serves 6 as a first course

Classic carpaccio is paper-thin slices of raw beef covered with a flavorful mayonnaise. In this recipe, I use tuna instead of beef and a dressing of oil and vinegar with a garnish of diced vegetables. This is particularly good as a first course for an elegant dinner party, because it can be prepared a few hours ahead—then all you have to do at serving time is to add the garnish.

Be sure to buy the freshest-possible fish. If you are not absolutely certain about its freshness, purchase it frozen, then defrost it slowly in the refrigerator.

Serve this with black bread or crunchy French bread.

Cut the tuna into 6 equal pieces. Place a piece of tuna on a sheet of plastic wrap and lay another piece of plastic wrap on top. Pound the tuna with a meat pounder or a small heavy saucepan until it has flattened out into a thin piece 5 to 6 inches across. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and sprinkle salt and pepper on the fish. Using the bottom layer of plastic wrap, invert the tuna onto a serving plate; peel off the plastic. Sprinkle the fish with more salt and pepper. Re-cover the fish with the plastic wrap. Repeat this procedure with the remaining pieces of tuna. Refrigerate while you prepare the garnishes or for up to 24 hours.

About 1 hour before serving, prepare the garnishes: Place the shallots in a sieve and rinse under cool water. (Rinsing removes the sulfuric acid, which tends to make chopped shallots and onions discolor and stings the eyes.) Drain, dry on a paper towel to remove the moisture, and place in a bowl.

At serving time, remove the plastic wrap from the tuna. Sprinkle the shallots, radishes, cucumber, mushrooms, and parsley evenly on top, then sprinkle each portion with approximately ½ teaspoon of the vinegar and 2 teaspoons of the olive oil. Serve immediately.

Note: If you will have to remove skin, sinew, and/or bone from the tuna, buy about 1½ pounds of tuna.