Chicken in Vinegar with Garlic and Tomato Sauce

° Serves 4

Chicken in vinegar with garlic is a bistro specialty in Lyon. The spicy, piquant sauce of vinegar, garlic, and tomatoes has an assertive flavor that complements the bird well. The chicken thighs are cooked only on the skin side, covered, so the skin is crispy and the flesh is cooked by the steam. The cooked chicken could be served with a salad. In this recipe, the chicken is removed from the skillet and a sauce is made in just a couple of minutes, then spooned over the chicken and served.

• 4 chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed, and chopped finely (1 tablespoon)
• ⅓ cup best-quality red wine vinegar
• ⅓ cup water
• 1½ cups chopped peeled tomatoes (fresh or canned)
• ½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or to taste
• 2 teaspoons chopped chives, for garnish

Place the chicken thighs skin side down on your cutting board. Make a ½-inch-deep cut along both sides of the bone of each thigh. Sprinkle the thighs with half the salt and pepper.

Place the chicken pieces skin side down in a large nonstick skillet and cook over high heat for a couple of minutes, until sizzling. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover tightly, and cook for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove the chicken to a serving platter and keep warm.

Add the garlic to the skillet and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the vinegar and water and bring to a boil, stirring to melt all the solidified juices. Boil for 1 minute, until the liquid has almost completely reduced. Add the tomatoes, the remaining salt and pepper, and the Tabasco. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes to thicken the sauce. (If the sauce separates, whisk in 2 tablespoons warm water.)

Pour the sauce around the chicken, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.