Choucroute

° Serves 4

Choucroute, which means “sauerkraut” in French, is a stew with sausages, ham, and potatoes, and is a specialty of Alsace, in northeastern France. Unlike the very crunchy sauerkraut often served with hot dogs, the sauerkraut in this dish is cooked for a long time, giving it a mild, nutty taste. Flavored with juniper berries and white wine, the sauerkraut is usually cooked first and the garnishes added near the end of cooking. It is particularly good served with hot mustard, black or rye bread, and a cold white wine from Alsace, such as a Pinot Blanc, Traminer, or Sylvaner.

Place the pancetta in a Dutch oven or other heavy pot large enough to hold the sauerkraut, potatoes, and meat and cook over medium to high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until it is lightly browned and some of its fat is rendered. Add the onion and sauté for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, drain the sauerkraut in a sieve. Press it lightly between your palms to extract more liquid.

Add the sauerkraut, chicken stock, juniper berries, bay leaves, pepper, and wine to the pot. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and boil gently for 45 minutes. (The recipe can be prepared to this point up to a day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat before continuing.)

Add the drained potatoes and the ham and cook over medium heat, covered, for 20 minutes.

Add the bratwurst and knockwurst and cook for 15 minutes longer. Serve directly from the pot.

Since this can be partially prepared ahead, it is an ideal party dish.