6 Mount Whitney

SCENERY:

TRAIL CONDITION:

CHILDREN:

DIFFICULTY:

SOLITUDE:

DISTANCE: 22 miles

HIKING TIME: 1–3 days

OUTSTANDING FEATURES: Mirror Lake, Trail Crest, Mount Whitney

Anna Mills, the first woman to climb Mount Whitney in 1878, wrote of her journey, “I can candidly say that I have never seen, nor do I expect to see, a picture so varied, so sublime, so awe-inspiring, as that seen from the summit of Mount Whitney.” (Mount Whitney Club Journal, 1902). Indeed, Mount Whitney is a perch that inspires the use of superlatives. Less intimidating than most peaks, Mount Whitney welcomes hikers to her gently sloped top with a winding path that requires no technical experience. As 14,000-foot mountains go, Mount Whitney is a relatively easy one to climb. But relative is the key word. Hiking to the top of the highest peak in the lower 48 states (second in the continental United States only to Alaska’s Mount McKinley), is still a feat to be admired. Thin air, winding switchbacks, endless sun, and wind exposure can all take their toll, and this is not a task to be taken lightly. Preparation—both mental and physical—is the key to success. From trailhead to summit requires more than 6,000 feet of elevation gain over 11 miles. The fittest of trail runners accomplish the feat in less than three hours. But your average hiker will need anywhere from 12 to 16 hours to make the journey.

DIRECTIONS: Whitney Portal lies 13 miles west of Lone Pine, off US 395, at the end of Whitney Portal Road. There is no public transit to the portal itself, but every car that leaves the parking lot goes through Lone Pine, so it’s fairly easy to hitch a ride.

You can take public transit as far as Lone Pine via Inyo Mono Transit’s CREST bus. It travels from Lone Pine south 1.5 hours to Ridgecrest and north to Bishop (1 hour) or Mammoth Lakes (2 hours). From Bishop, it’s possible to transfer to another bus farther north to Reno. Rates and routes are subject to frequent change; call ahead for information and reservations at (760) 872-1901 or (800) 922-1930. More information can be found on the Web at www.countyofinyo.org/transit/CRESTpage.htm.

GPS coordinate		Whitney Portal
UTM zone (WGS84)		11S
Easting		0388918
Northing		4049743
Latitude		N 36°35′12.14″
Longitude		W 118°14′30.21″

Begin at Whitney Portal (8,365 feet), stocking up on snacks and water before departing. We’ve listed this as a day hike, as most attempt to summit Whitney in this fashion, but truthfully we advise an overnight stay en route to acclimate to the altitude and to be healthy enough to enjoy the unparalleled view from the top. Day hikers should start before sunrise to maximize daylight for the journey. Layered clothing, plenty of water and food, sunscreen, and a light source are all requirements. After a little more than a half mile of walking, enter John Muir Wilderness and begin a series of steep open switchbacks through manzanita and stands of mountain mahogany and pine. Rock-hop across Lone Pine Creek and follow the creek on its southern bank. Ignore the unmarked spur trail leading to the right unless you plan on scaling the eastern face of Mount Whitney with mountaineering gear. There is a signed junction to Lone Pine Lake a little more than 2.5 miles from the trailhead. This is the closest camping to the trailhead, and it’s a lovely spot with fewer crowds than subsequent campgrounds. To sleep here, simply follow the path less than a half mile to tent sites by the lake.

From the main trail, continue west up sandy sage-scented switchbacks and along a ridge, before descending slightly into the flower-strewn meadow of Bighorn Park. Traverse the south side of the meadow to cross Lone Pine Creek again and reach Outpost Camp (10,367 feet) nearly 4 miles from the trailhead at Whitney Portal. Crowded tent sites and solar toilets provide a halfway home for many hikers. If you camp here, you can leave your heavy gear at base camp to lighten your load up the mountain. In recent years, the toilets have not been able to keep up with the number of hikers, and they are often full toward the end of the season. In 2006, more than 30,000 people camped in the Whitney Zone alone. As a result, the forest service is asking all backpackers to pick up “pack-it-out” kits and pack out all their trash. These glamorous “wag bags” come with toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and deodorant gel. There are disposal bins at Whitney Portal upon return to the trailhead. While it’s less than spectacular to have to carry your wag bag with you, you can rest easy in the knowledge that you’re aiding environmental progress.

Continue climbing up switchbacks to cross the outlet of Mirror Lake (10,640 feet), a gorgeous spot for a rest by its reflective waters. Camping is prohibited. Continue climbing up, through stunted white-bark pines, to rise above the treeline and arrive at Trailside Meadow. Continue rising up the granite landscape. Enjoy views of Consultation Lake to the south. Ascend poured concrete stairs to Trail Camp (12,000 feet). Listen for the high-pitched call of pikas—small, tailless, rabbitlike animals with laid-back ears—that frequent the area.

Trail Camp, the last legal camping area with water, lies close to 2,500 feet, and more than 4 miles below, Whitney. It is not without charm and enjoys lovely sunsets over a small tarn; however, it’s a far cry from remote backcountry wilderness. Often overcrowded with inexperienced backpackers, it can feel a bit like a garbage dump at times. There are solar toilets on the southern side of camp, but these can sometimes be full. Whether camping or not, it is advised to pump water at this tarn, as this is the last water source before the summit.

Begin the famed 96 switchbacks up a relentless 2.3 miles to Trail Crest (13,650 feet) and the boundary for Sequoia National Park. The ascent begins with a tight set of steep switchbacks dynamited into the eastern side of the mountain. About halfway up, there are cables to assist hikers over ice when necessary. From the crest, admire views west to Sawtooth Peak and the Hitchcock Lakes and east to Owens Valley. Continuing from Trail Crest, enter Sequoia National Park leaving John Muir Wilderness. Enjoy a brief half-mile descent to Trail Junction (13,484 feet), where the John Muir Trail joins from the west to summit Mount Whitney. Turn right to begin the final 1.9-mile push to the summit over a stony ridge with the occasional peekaboo view of Owens Valley below to the east. While it’s just shy of 2 miles to the top, with only about 1,000 feet of climbing at a moderate to gentle grade, the thin air makes the journey quite taxing.

Begin walking the rocky ridgeline, enjoying westward views to Mounts Hale and Young and beyond, and the pointed spire of Mount Muir to the east. Rocky spires and narrow ledges provide endless photo opportunities. The climb can be a bit vertigo-inducing for some, so take it easy and admire the jagged landscape of stony outcroppings, narrow windows with views to Owens Valley and asymmetrical rocks balanced in a seemingly precarious fashion on impossible ledges.

Round the corner around Keeler Needle, and begin the final ascent to the top of Mount Whitney (14,497 feet). Approaching the summit’s broad plateau, it can be easy to lose the trail among the rocks. Watch for cairns until the tin-roofed shelter at the top comes into view. The shelter is a welcome spot during high winds, but do not seek protection here during a storm, as the tin roof is a lightning conductor. Hikers have died here in the past.

In the native tongue of the Owens Valley Paiute Indians, Mount Whitney was known as the “very old man.” The Native Americans believed that the spirit of destiny lived in the mountain and observed their behavior from this grand perch. And indeed, the mountain has beckoned men and women to its airy crown for hundreds of years. Although it is sometimes disputed, it is generally acknowledged that the first people to ascend Mount Whitney were three fishing buddies from Lone Pine, in 1873: Charles Begole, Albert Johnson, and Johnny Lucas. They first climbed Mount Langley, realized it wasn’t the tallest, and set a course for Whitney, dubbing it Fisherman’s Peak. But the mountain had already been christened Mount Whitney in 1864 to honor Josiah Whitney, founder of the California Geological Survey and the author of a travel guide on Yosemite published in 1869. Despite the usual first-ascent naming rights, Mount Whitney remained the official moniker to honor this influential conservationist.

There’s a palpable sense of victorious accomplishment in the air from all who reach the summit. Sign the guest book, housed in a steel box outside the shelter, that reveals the broad spectrum of ages and ethnicities that travel to Whitney’s top. There is also a USGS survey marker to the east of the shelter among the big boulders. Older guidebooks mention a pit toilet at the top of the summit, but human waste has become a problem, and this is no longer encouraged.

Flanked by neighboring 14,000 footers Mounts Muir and Russell, Mount Whitney is a benign ruler towering above the Owens Valley. To the east, enjoy views of the Inyo Mountains and the Alabama Hills. To the south, Mount Hitchcock and Mount Langley greet the eye. To the west, admire the Sawtooth Peak, Kaweah Peaks, and the Great Western Divide. To the north lie Junction Peak, Mount Tyndall, and Mount Williamson, which just barely missed being the highest peak in the lower 48.

Keep your celebration in check, however, because it’s important to conserve some energy for the descent. It’s recommended that you leave the summit no later than 3 p.m., as it’s still a more than 6,000-foot descent, and you want to have your wits (and humor) still about you when you return to civilization at Whitney Portal. Public restrooms are directly across from the trailhead, while food, showers (fee), a pay phone, and the general store are found to the right. The burger and fries combination is a treat! The general store is open daily (May and October, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; June and September, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.; July and August, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.).

Inspired? Next time you could choose to participate in the Badwater Ultramarathon race, a 135-mile nonstop journey every July from Death Valley, the lowest elevation in the Western Hemisphere at 280 feet below sea level, to the top of Mount Whitney. Those who manage to complete the journey in less than 48 hours are awarded a sought-after belt buckle celebrating their accomplishments.

PERMIT INFORMATION: Because of the high demand to climb Mount Whitney, a quota system is in place from May 1 to November 1 for the Whitney Zone (the area stretching from Lone Pine Lake to Crabtree Meadow). During this time, 60 backpackers and 100 day hikers are allowed on the trail each day, and hikers must apply for a $15-per-person permit by entering the Mount Whitney Lottery. Lottery applications are accepted only during the month of February and must be mailed to the Wilderness Permit Office (351 Pacu Lane, Suite 200, Bishop, CA 93514). Applications must be postmarked in February and cannot be faxed to be eligible. Applications are available online at www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/wild/whitneylottery.shtml. To request that an application form be sent to you by mail or fax, call the Wilderness Permit Office at (760) 873-2483. The office is open from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily from June 1 to October 1, and Monday through Friday during the rest of the year. You will be notified of your lottery status in April; rejected applications will be returned by mail.

If you don’t win the lottery, all hope is not lost. You can contact the Wilderness Permit Office two days before your trip to see if there is any remaining quota space. Walk-in permits are also available in the event of cancellations or no-shows. These permits are made available at 11 a.m. the day before the entry date at the Eastern Sierra InterAgency Visitor Center (junction of US 395 and CA 136), 2 miles south of Lone Pine. The center is open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday and can be reached by phone at (760) 876-6200. From November 2 to April 30, crowds are not a problem and permits may be self-issued at the visitor center.