Switzerland: Essential Travel Tips
Fact file
Area: 41,285 sq km (15,935 sq miles)
Capital: Bern (pop. 126,000)
Population: 7.9 million (with 21 percent foreigners)
Languages: Swiss-German (62.7 percent), French (20.4 percent), Italian (6.5 percent), Romansch (0.5 percent), other languages (9 percent)
Highest mountain: Not the Matterhorn 4,478 metres (14,692ft) but the Dufourspitze/Monte Rosa 4,634 metres (15,202 ft)
Religion: Catholic (42 percent), Protestant (35 percent), Muslim (4 percent)
Time zone: CET/CEST
Currency: Swiss franc (SFr)
International dialling code: 41
Transport
Getting to Switzerland
By air
Switzerland’s best-served airports are at Zürich and Geneva, but there also international airports at Bern, Lugano and Basel (called the Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg EuroAirport, tel: 03-89 90 31 11; www.euroairport.com, because it is actually in French territory, and shared by three countries). Geneva (tel: 0900 571 500; www.gva.ch) and Zürich (tel: 0900-300 313; www.zurich-airport.com) airports both have direct intercontinental flights from virtually every part of the world, and a big choice of European flights. Zürich-based Swiss (tel: 848-700 700; www.swiss.com) is the country’s largest airline, but many foreign carriers also fly to Zürich, Geneva and Basel. Of the low-cost airlines, easyJet (www.easyjet.com), as well as flying Swiss routes from the UK, has a separate Swiss subsidiary, easyJet Switzerland, which has routes to every part of Europe and some destinations in the Middle East, mainly from Geneva and Basel.
Crossing the border
Although not a member of the EU, Switzerland is part of the Schengen area, so travellers can enter Switzerland by car, train and plane from all neighbouring countries without the formality of border controls. Travellers on flights directly from outside Europe, though, and from the UK and Ireland must pass through Swiss immigration.
Travel from the airports: Zürich and Geneva airports both have their own train stations which are part of the national fast-train network; frequent trains each hour run between them and the main railway stations in their cities and other destinations, and at Geneva you can pick up a Unireso ticket that allows you to travel free on city public transport for the first 80 minutes of your stay. Many Swiss hotels also provide free shuttle buses from airports if you have a booking. Taxis from the airports will cost around SFr 30–35 in each city. From Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg Airport, which is in France, there are buses to the Swiss train station at Basel sbb that take about 25 minutes.
Fly-Rail Services
With the “Fly-Rail Baggage” service, train passengers don’t have to lug their baggage around the airport any more. Instead, it is unloaded from planes arriving at Zürich and Geneva and forwarded by train directly to its destination point. The same service applies for the return trip: you can send your baggage – up to 24 hours in advance – directly through to your destination airport from the town where you’ve been staying.
Travellers may also check in at over 50 train stations (including Basel, Berne, Geneva, Lausanne, Lugano, Lucerne, Neuchâtel, St Gallen and Zürich) and obtain a boarding pass up to 24 hours prior to departure.
The service is offered from any airport around the world, no matter which airline you fly. Further information from www.sbb.ch, under “Station & services/Baggage”.
By rail
Swiss rail lines are closely connected with those in surrounding countries, and several high-speed TGV Lyria trains run each day from the Gare de Lyon in Paris to several Swiss destinations (Geneva, Neuchâtel, Bern, Lausanne, Basel and Zürich). Journey times are around 3–4 hours. Fast trains also run between Zürich and Cologne, and also to Milan and Vienna, and there is an overnight sleeper service between Geneva and Barcelona. For information and bookings see www.raileurope.com.
By road
Buses: Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) buses run to the main Swiss cities from other parts of Europe, but given the speed and comfort of rail travel most people prefer the train.
Cars: Routes into northern Switzerland are mostly fairly level, so driving is easy and fast; Alpine routes to Italy and Austria are much more spectacular, and slower. To drive to Zürich takes about 6hrs 30 mins, from Cologne about 5–6hrs.
Getting around Switzerland
Given the size of the country, internal flights are little used in Switzerland, but it has excellent public transport, represented internationally by the Swiss Travel System (www.swisstravelsystem.ch) that is one of the country’s major attractions by itself, offering many wonderfully scenic train and boat rides.
By boat
Regularly scheduled boats cruise all the big Swiss lakes. There are steam-driven paddle steamers to put you in a nostalgic mood on Lake Geneva, Lake Zürich, Lake Brienz and Lake Lucerne. It’s also possible to take a trip along the Rhine, Rhône, Aare and Doubs rivers. For timetables and other information, the best sources are local tourist offices.
By rail
More than 5,780km (3,400 miles) of electrified railways open up the remotest sections of the country with trains every hour on most lines and every half-hour on the busiest. More than 100 trains call at Zürich Airport each day.
Swiss Federal Railways (tel: 0900 300 300; www.sbb.ch) is referred to by its initials, which vary between the official languages: sbb (German), CFF (French) and FFS (Italian). Through the website, in English, you can get comprehensive information on all services and buy tickets. As well as the various national tourist travel passes, a big choice of more specific travel cards and tickets is available, such as a 1-day travelpass, giving unlimited travel on all transport for a day (SFr 68), and various youth cards, and cheap upgrades to first class. Over 100 trains have dining or bistro cars, and all long-distance trains have buffets or trolley refreshments.
While the SBB operates all the main lines in Switzerland, another essential part of the Swiss rail networks are its narrow-gauge mountain railways, which are semi-independent. Most famous is the Rhaetian Railway (tel: 081-288 6565; www.rhb.ch), a Unesco World Heritage site, from Chur to Davos, St Moritz and Italy, but also celebrated is the Matterhorn-St Gotthard line (tel: 027-927 7000; www.matterhorngotthardbahn.ch) from Disentis, near Chur, to Zermatt. The two jointly operate the Glacier Express (tel: 027-927 7000; www.glacierexpress.ch) between St Moritz and Zermatt, one of the world’s most famous, and most glorious, train rides. Other beautiful but shorter lines include the Golden Pass line from Montreux to Lucerne (tel: 021-989 8190; www.goldenpass.ch), the Berner Oberland line from Interlaken, or the Zentralbahn (tel: 058-668 8000; www.zentralbahn.ch) between Interlaken and Luzern.
All these and other railways are coordinated and in some cases run by the SBB, but each often has its own travel passes, and there are also travel cards for individual districts, creating a complex range of ticket options (many are listed on the SBB website) that can only be understood if you have a fair knowledge of Swiss geography. For visitors it’s generally easier just to get single tickets or one of the SBB all-Switzerland travel cards.
By road
Buses: The Alpine PostBus (phone local offices, details on website; www.postauto.ch) network takes travellers over the principal mountain roads and covers 9,800km (6,090 miles), reaching any points that do not have a train service. The buses are all modern and comfortable. Bus tours are also available, listed on the website.
Cars: Twenty-five major roads running through Alpine tunnels or over the passes form one of the main attractions for visitors; depending on the snow, they are open from May or June to late autumn. Special rail facilities are provided for motorists wishing to transport their cars through the tunnels. In less mountainous areas travel is much quicker.
Motoring advice: Drivers must have a red warning triangle in the car; yellow jackets are not obligatory, but recommended. Snow chains are compulsory in mountain areas in winter. In many towns, parking is allowed only for cars displaying a blue disc, which can be bought from petrol stations, newsstands and many restaurants. Pedestrians expect to have right of way on many minor roads in Switzerland, so be very careful when driving; police are also strict in enforcing speed limits.
Swiss motorways carry tolls, but you do not have to stop at toll stations to pay. Instead, all normal-sized vehicles are required to have a sticker on the windscreen called a vignette, which costs SFr 40 and can be bought at border crossings and from post offices, petrol stations, tourist offices and some other outlets in Switzerland. It will be valid for 14 months, from 1 December to 31 January, not from the date you buy it. Rental cars should all come with a vignette; if you tow a caravan or other trailer you will need an extra one. Once you have one, the roads you are allowed to drive on include the Gotthard and Bernardino tunnels. There are precise rules for how the sticker must be placed on the windscreen, so make you do this correctly.
Tickets and passes: A range of passes are on offer: the most popular is the Swiss Pass, which gives unlimited travel on most trains, buses and lake ferries and discounts on mountain railways for 4, 8, 15, 22 or 30 days for SFr 266–590, together with free admission to many museums and other benefits. The Swiss Flexi Pass allows you to space out your travelling over non-consecutive days for a slightly higher price, and with a Swiss Family Card, children under 16 travel free with their parents is they have their own ticket. Details of all passes are on the website, where they can be bought online.
City transport
All the main Swiss cities – Zürich, Geneva, Bern – have regularly modernised tram networks that provide the most convenient transport in city centres, as well as trolleybuses and buses. All have easy-to-use integrated ticket systems: with Geneva’s Unireso system some tickets are valid in neighbouring areas in France, while in Zürich you can get a ZürichCard, which gives unrestricted travel on most transport in the city and region for 24 or 72 hours (SFr 20–40). City tramlines are supplemented by suburban rail lines, called S-Bahn in German-speaking areas and RER in French-speaking ones. Tickets are usually valid for all networks. From Geneva, the SBB’s regional RER lines run all the way along Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) to Lausanne.
Switzerland A–Z
Accommodation
There are around 5,000 hotels, motels, pensions, youth hostels, mountain sanatoria and health resorts in Switzerland. Design hotels, holiday chalets and apartments and bed-and-breakfast-type places have also all grown in popularity in the last few years, together with farmhouse stays. World-famous Alpine resorts such as Davos specialise in ultra-luxurious accommodation, but there are also plenty of more modest but still charming options. Extensive information, including a dedicated page on farmhouse holidays, is provided on the national website www.myswitzerland.com. For more conventional and city hotels, the Swiss Hotel Guide (www.swisshotels.com) is also a useful source.
Arts and activities
There is a rich musical life in Switzerland, with quite small places hosting internationally renowned soloists. Switzerland Tourism publishes regular information on all kinds of events, including details of music festivals, art exhibitions, sightseeing, as well as a listing of more than 100 museums and art collections open to the public. More events and programmes can be found on regional websites.
Swiss Museum Pass
The Swiss Museum Pass (adults SFr 155) gives admission to more than 470 museums throughout Switzerland. The pass is valid for a year, and is obtainable from participating museums. Note that unfortunately some of the main galleries (for example in Zürich and Basel) are not included in the pass. The museum pass is included in some of the national tourist cards, such as the Swiss Pass; full information is available from tourist offices.
Concerts
All larger cities maintain at least one theatre and a symphony orchestra, and even the smaller outlying communities put on dramatic and musical events. In the concert scene, the leading venue is Lucerne’s spectacular Kultur- und Kongress-zentrum (KKL; tel: 041-226 7777; www.kkl-luzern.ch) designed by Jean Nouvel, which presents wide ranging programme. Zürich’s Opera (tel: 044-268 6400; www.opernhaus.ch) has an international reputation, and is also home to the Zürich Ballet. In general, the theatre and concert season begins in September and ends in June. In summer, there are several highly acclaimed festivals featuring world-class performers, the best known at Lausanne, Zürich, Thun, Braunwald, Sion, Gstaad, Interlaken, Lucerne, Ascona and Vevey.
Budgeting for your trip
It is a myth that Switzerland is expensive. Of course there are plenty of expensive hotels, restaurants and shops, but it is easy to find ways of saving money.
Accommodation: Except in the most celebrated mountain towns, attractive double rooms can generally be found from about SFr 70, up to SFr 500 or more in luxury locations.
Meals: A full meal in an inexpensive restaurant should cost around SFr 30–50, one in a more elaborate venue about SFr 80 per person or more.
Sightseeing: Admission to most large museums costs around SFr 10–15, but they are usually free for children under 16, and costs can be further reduced with a tourist pass (see above).
Transport: from about SFr 40 per day, but less if you make full use of travel passes.
Children
Switzerland is well geared up for young visitors, from family-friendly hotels and accommodation (www.reka.ch) to special experiences, such as sleeping on straw in an Alpine cowshed (see www.myswitzerland.com), an igloo (www.iglu-dorf.com) or a yurt (www.goldenpass.ch and click on “Rochers-de-Naye”). There are adventure playgrounds for all ages, railed toboggan runs (the longest in the world is at Churwalden, www.pradaschier.ch), scooters and monster bikes on which to freewheel down mountains on traffic-free paths, and major zoos at Basel, Bern, Langnau and Zürich.
Up to eight children aged under 6 can travel for free per one paying adult on all SBB trains, and those aged 6–16 travel for half the adult fare. Special children’s travel cards are available, and similar concessions are given on other public transport. Admission to most museums is free to anyone under 16, or sometimes under 18.
Climate
In the centre of Europe, the Swiss climate is influenced by maritime and continental air masses. Summers are mostly warm at lower altitudes, although they can be quite wet with frequent thunderstorms. Winters are generally cold with plenty of cloud, snow and fog.
The high mountains mean great differences can occur within just a short distance – one valley can be sunny and dry while the next is shrouded in mist. The Ticino area bordering the Italian lakes is markedly warmer and sunnier than the rest of the country throughout the year.
Bring a warm fleece, raincoat, waterproof boots and an umbrella, even in the height of summer, and likewise, sunglasses and sunscreen even in the depths of winter.
Disabled travellers
Access facilities in general are of a high standard. Many SBB trains and stations are accessible, and there is a dedicated call centre for enquiries and booking assistance if required (tel: 0800-007 102). Full details are under “Stations and Services/Passengers with a Handicap” on www.sbb.ch. In cities, trams are being adapted to be made accessible (in Zürich, most have been) and nearly all buses have low boarding platforms. Mountain railways are more of a problem, though the Glacier Express is fully accessible and has adapted toilets. Virtually all museums are easy to get into and around.
Many hotels throughout the country also now have adapted rooms, and the Ski2Freedom organisation (www.ski2freedom.com) is an essential source of orientation on disabled-friendly winter sports centres and possibilities.
Eating out
The French, German and Italian influences make for great variety in cuisine in the three areas. Though the origins of the country’s staple dishes are rustic, there is nothing basic about Swiss cuisine at its best, but really good food needs seeking out, as there are plenty of restaurants that serve sustaining rather than refined dishes.
Best-known dishes include fondue, made with melted cheese and wine, into which speared bread is dipped; rösti – grated fried potatoes; raclette – hot cheese dribbled over potatoes and served with gherkins and pickled onions; in Ticino, saffron risotto and polenta made of cornmeal; and the now universal breakfast, muesli.
Lunch is served from 11.30am and dinner from 6–9pm, though in the larger cities there are restaurants taking orders into the small hours.
Embassies and consulates
Australia: Chemin de Fins 2, 1211 Geneva 19, tel: 022-799 9100; www.geneva.mission.gov.au.
Canada: Kirchenfeldstrasse 88, 3005 Berne 6, tel: 031-357 3200; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/switzerland-suisse.
UK: Thunstrasse 50, 3005 Bern, tel: 031-359 7700; http://ukinswitzerland.fco.gov.uk.
US: Embassy, Sulgeneckstrasse 19, CH-3007 Bern, tel: 031-357 7011; http://bern.usembassy.gov.
Festivals
There are numerous festivals throughout the year. For information and tickets contact Switzerland Tourism, tel: 00800-100 200 29 (from Switzerland or abroad) or visit www.myswitzerland.com. Another good website (in German) is www.events.ch.
Jazz and folk music festivals are held in Basel, Bern, Lugano, Nyon, Montreux, Willisau and Zürich. There are also regular rendezvous points for film and TV industries: the competition for the Rose d’Or in Lucerne, international film festivals in Locarno, Nyon and Les Diablerets, and film and literature days in Solothurn. Among the biggest traditional festivals is Fasnacht in Basel, a 3-day Carnival that starts on the Monday after Ash Wednesday.
Gay and lesbian travellers
Attitudes among the Swiss towards homosexuality are open-minded and progressive. All cities have gay communities and areas where there are gay bars and entertainment venues; the age of consent for gay sex is 16, the same as for heterosexuals. A law recognising same-sex unions came into effect in 2007. Switzerland’s de facto gay capital is Zürich, which has a Gay Pride parade every July. There’s a similar annual event in Geneva.
Emergency Numbers
All emergencies: 112, though in Switzerland most people still use the local numbers.
Ambulance: 144
Police: 117
Fire service: 118
Breakdown service: 140
Health and medical care
Health services are of very high quality. Citizens of non-EU countries should have a travel and health insurance policy, though despite Switzerland not being part of the EU, EU nationals are still entitled to free basic healthcare from the Swiss public insurance system with an EHIC card. However, you will still have to pay for most treatments, and then claim back the cost (which can be high) following the instructions given you with your EHIC card. You should also check that any doctor you are referred to is registered with the Swiss health service and is treating you on those terms; doctors in Switzerland are nearly all private, but are then contracted by the health service, so you can be treated privately or not. Dental treatment is not covered by the EHIC.
In an emergency, call for an ambulance or go to the emergency department of the nearest hospital. All hospitals have emergency wards with doctors on 24-hour duty, and every city and larger villages have a number for an emergency doctor. This can be found in local newspapers or on the general information number 111.
Pharmacies are usually open Mon–Fri 8am–noon and 1.30–6.30pm and Sat 8am–noon, with local variations. All have duty rota lists on their doors showing lists of local pharmacies open outside normal hours, which can also be obtained from tel: 111.
Language
Switzerland has four national languages. German is spoken in central and eastern Switzerland; French in the west; Italian in the southern part of the country; and just 0.5 percent of the population speaks Romansch in southeastern Switzerland. The Swiss, though, are oddly poor at speaking each others’ languages, and so make increasing use of English.
Money
Switzerland is of course the only country in this book that does not use the euro but still has its own currency, the Swiss franc (SFr, CHF or SF), the value of which is usually around €1 = SFr 1. In many areas near the Swiss borders, such as Geneva, many businesses accept euros as well as Swiss francs, but as you go further into the country you will only be able to use francs. Changing money in Switzerland is very easy: there are change desks near all border crossings and, especially, at main railway stations (which generally give the best rates). Bank branches, too, will nearly always exchange euros and other currencies. Try not to have many Swiss francs left over when you leave the country, as you will lose if you change them back into euros.
Nightlife
Disregard the rumour that nightlife in Switzerland is pretty provincial; in larger cities you’ll find a wide variety of stylish bars and nightclubs.
Opening hours
Offices are open Mon–Fri 8am–noon and 2–6pm. Shops of all kinds are usually open Mon–Sat 8am–12.30pm and 1.30–4pm, but in larger cities they also open during lunchtime. Many shops are also closed on Monday mornings, but have one day a week when they open late until 9pm, usually Wednesday or Thursday. There are also local and regional differences.
In cities, banks and bureaux de change open Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm, but in the countryside these hours are usually Mon–Fri 8.30am–noon and 2–4.30/5.30pm. Very few bank branches are open at weekends, but exchange offices are frequently open. Museums are always closed one day a week, usually Mondays.
Postal services
Post offices are generally open Mon–Fri 7.30am–noon and 1.45–6.30pm, Sat until 11am. Stamps can be purchased at post offices, postcard kiosks and stamp machines. Post boxes are yellow and are often set into walls.
Public holidays
January: 1 New Year’s Day, 2 Berchtold’s Day; March/April: variable Good Friday/Easter Monday; May/June: variable Ascension, Whit Monday; August: 1 National Day; December: 25 Christmas Day, 26 Boxing Day.
Shopping
If you’re searching for something typical and of good quality, try one of the Schweizer Heimatwerk (Swiss Handicraft) shops, located in Zürich, Basel and Geneva.
Cheese: Swiss cheeses are best known for their use in cooking, especially Gruyère and Emmental, but there are hundreds of small mountain producers making a variety of cheeses and charcuterie. Visits to them can often be arranged by local tourist offices.
Chocolates: Synonymous with Switzerland, made here since the early 19th century, and the first factory opened in 1819.
Sausages: The sausage known as the cervelat is the most common, combining beef and pork, and smoked and boiled.
Wines: Swiss wines are little known outside the country because production levels barely meet domestic demand, but some fine wines come from the Valais, Vaud and Ticino, some from the highest vineyards in Europe. Fruit schnapps are drunk as a digestif.
Telecommunications
To call Switzerland from abroad, tel: 41. Phone numbers consist of a 2- or 3-digit area code (Bern, 031, Basel, 061, Geneva, 022, Zürich, 01) followed by a 7-digit number; area codes always begin with a 0, which you must dial within Switzerland, but omit if calling from abroad. Numbers beginning 0800 are toll-free; 0900 numbers are information lines at rates slightly higher than normal. For directory assistance, dial 113; international calls 114 or 191; information (in English) 111.
Public phone booths can be most easily found at rail stations, airports and post offices, but there are still a few in most towns. Most can only be used with phone cards, which can be bought for Sfr 5, 10, 20 or 50 from train stations, post offices, newspaper shops and phone shops.
Local rates for using foreign phones are fairly reasonable.
Tipping
Officially in Switzerland all services are included in the price, but it is widespread practice to acknowledge good service by tipping. In restaurants, the bill is normally rounded up for snacks, and 2 or 3 francs extra are usually added to the bill for a meal.
Tourist information
The national tourism agency Switzerland Tourism maintains an excellent website, www.myswitzerland.com, with suggestions that include walking, cycling and canoeing routes, and has a very efficient information service through the international phone line, tel: 00800-100 200 29. There is also a special “Switzerland Mobility” site with ideas for hiking, mountainbiking, cycling and canoeing, at www.schweizmobil.ch.
In addition, each Canton and city has its own tourism promotion service, such as www.valais.ch or www.graubunden.ch, for more detailed information. They also operate the local information offices in nearly all towns, which are never hard to find.
Tourist offices abroad
All these offices can be contacted through www.myswitzerland.com or the phone line tel: 00800-100 200 29/30 (US and Canada 011800-100 200 29/30).
Australia: tel: 02-9262 1377.
UK: 30 Bedford Street, London WC2E 9ED, tel: 020-7420 4934.
US: Swiss Center, 608 Fifth Avenue, New York, tel: international toll-free 011800-100-200-29/30, or US only 1-877-794 8037.