Coulommiers with black truffle

This should be served on its own, as the single cheese in a cheese course. The flavour is so exquisite that no other cheese will be able to shine by its side. The success of this recipe lies in the quality of the cheese and the black truffle, which must be perfectly fresh and at the peak of its season. The same technique can be applied to an unpasteurised wheel of Brie, which will serve between 30 and 40 guests.

SERVES 4–6

1 soft, but not runny, Coulommiers (about 250g), made with unpasteurised milk

50g mascarpone

2 tsp whipping cream

1 fresh black truffle (30–40g), brushed, wiped with a damp cloth and dried

Freshly ground pepper

Split the Coulommiers in half horizontally, using a very sharp or serrated knife. Mix the mascarpone with the whipping cream. Using a palette knife, spread the mascarpone and cream mixture over both cut sides of the cheese and add a light grinding of pepper.

Using a small truffle mandoline or swivel peeler, very lightly peel the truffle, then shave the entire truffle over a bowl into slivers, about 1mm thick.

Starting at the outside edge of the bottom half of the Coulommiers and overhanging the edge by about 2mm, arrange the truffle slices in a rosette, working towards the middle until the entire surface is covered in truffle. Add a turn of the pepper mill and add a second layer of truffle over the first layer, using the same method.

Place the top half of the cheese over the truffle-covered base, to reform the cheese to its original shape. Lightly press down on the cheese with your fingertips, then wrap in cling film and place in the least-cold part of the fridge for at least 24 hours, and up to 48 hours, to infuse with the truffle.

Remove the cheese from the fridge at least 1 or 2 hours before serving. Cut into 4 or 6 portions at the table – the aromas released play a part in the pleasure and anticipation of eating the cheese. I recommend serving it with plain bread, artisanal if possible.