Goyères

These individual savoury tarts are a speciality of northern France. Maroilles is the traditional cheese used but I prefer a more full-flavoured refined blue, such as Gorgonzola or Fourme d’Ambert. These go better with the walnuts that I like to include.

SERVES 4

For the dough

200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

2 pinches of soft brown sugar

A good pinch of sea salt

10g fresh yeast

2½ tbsp warm milk

2 medium eggs, beaten

70g butter, melted and cooled to warm

For the filling

100g ripe Gorgonzola or Fourme d’Ambert, thickest part of crust removed

2 medium eggs, beaten

100ml crème fraîche

16 walnut halves

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

To serve (optional)

A few escarole or chicory leaves

Put the flour into a large bowl with the sugar and salt. In a small bowl, cream the yeast with the milk until smooth, then add to the flour with the eggs. Mix together using your fingertips, pouring in the melted butter as you do so, until you have a soft, smooth, homogeneous dough.

Divide the dough into 4 equal portions then shape each into a ball, dusting with a little flour to stop the dough sticking to your fingers.

Place the dough balls on a baking tray, spacing them well apart. Starting from the centre and working outwards, spread each ball out to a round, about 10cm in diameter and 5mm thick, dipping your fingers in flour every now and then.

Set aside in a warm place (22–24°C) for 1 hour, by which time the dough should have almost doubled in volume. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6.

For the filling, put the cheese into a bowl and crush it with a fork, then add the beaten eggs, crème fraîche and plenty of pepper. Mix well to combine.

Lightly press down the centres of the goyère bases, leaving a 1.5cm raised border. Divide the filling between the bases and spread it out with a spoon, starting from the centre and stopping at the raised border. Arrange 4 walnut halves on each.

Bake the little tarts in the oven for 14–15 minutes until golden. Immediately slide them onto a wire rack, using a palette knife, and allow to cool slightly. Serve while still warm, accompanied, if you like, with crisp salad leaves.