I adore this dish from the Ardèche, known as crique ardéchoise. The crispness of the potatoes is amazing, and the addition of Picodon cheese makes it all the more delectable. You can, if you wish, substitute another goat’s cheese that isn’t too strong-tasting, and is, above all, well ripened and soft, so that it spreads out in part over the potato as it melts. A green salad would be an ideal accompaniment.
SERVES 4
500g medium potatoes
1 medium egg, lightly beaten
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
20g flat-leaf parsley, finely snipped
50ml grapeseed or groundnut oil
100g clarified butter
3 Picodon goat’s cheeses (from Ardèche), soft in the middle, cut in half horizontally
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Peel the potatoes, wash them in cold water and pat dry. Using a mandoline, cut the potatoes into julienne and place in a large bowl. Leave for 5 minutes, then squeeze lightly with your hands to remove the water they will have released.
Add the egg, garlic and parsley to the potatoes with a little salt and plenty of pepper, then mix it all together, using your hand or a wooden spoon.
Divide the oil and clarified butter between two 22–24cm non-stick frying pans and place over a medium-high heat until very hot.
Divide the potato mixture between the pans and spread it out evenly using a palette knife, pressing it down so the potato is compact against the base of the pan. Cook for 2–3 minutes until the base has taken on an appealing nut-brown colour, then turn over using a large palette knife and cook on the other side for 3–4 minutes.
Arrange 3 Picodon halves over one of the potato discs, spacing them evenly, then slide the other potato disc on top of this one. Using a palette knife, press the discs together so that they adhere lightly. Arrange the remaining 3 cheese halves on top; these will, with the heat of the potato, melt and spread out over the top.
Slide the crique carefully from the pan onto a rustic board or plate, and serve straight away, cutting it into slices at the table, using a pizza cutter or large, sharp chef’s knife.