Caesar salad

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The origins of this salad date back to the 1920s – to Mexico and the United States, and to restaurateur Caesar Cardini. Some people prepare it with lobster or chicken, but I prefer it with crisp pancetta, or a lightly smoked duck breast. It is a delicious salad but can have the misfortune of being loosely interpreted by charlatans, which ruins the final result…

SERVES 4

1 small smoked duck breast, very finely sliced, or 120g finely sliced pancetta

2 slices of white sandwich loaf

6 anchovy fillets in olive oil, halved lengthways

1 Romaine lettuce, outer leaves removed, washed and patted dry

100g Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly shaved

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

For the Caesar dressing

1 egg yolk (use pasteurised if keeping for 2 days)

1½ tsp Dijon mustard

1 small garlic clove, chopped

100ml light olive oil

25g Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated

2 anchovy fillets in olive oil, cut into diced

3g tarragon leaves, snipped Juice of 1 lemon

First prepare the Caesar dressing. In a medium bowl, mix the egg yolk, mustard and garlic to combine, then add the olive oil, a little at a time, mixing with a hand-held stick blender to a homogeneous, creamy sauce.

Incorporate the grated cheese, anchovies, tarragon and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. If the dressing seems too thick, add a trickle of lukewarm water.

If using smoked duck breast, have ready at room temperature. If using pancetta, preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas 3. Place the pancetta slices between 2 sheets of silicone paper on a baking sheet. Place another baking sheet on top, to weigh down. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove and set aside.

Toast the bread slices, remove the crusts, then cut into batons. Wrap the halved anchovy fillets decoratively around the toasted batons.

To serve, gently toss the Romaine leaves with the Caesar dressing, then divide between 4 plates, mounding the leaves up slightly. Arrange the smoked duck breast or crisp pancetta slices and the anchovy-wrapped batons on top. Scatter the Parmesan shavings over the salad and serve.