Celery with Roquefort butter and walnuts

This dish is lovely served as an amuse-bouche with a glass of Sauternes, or at the end of a meal with a glass of Port. Stilton pairs equally as well as Roquefort with the celery.

SERVES 4

1 or 2 bunches of celery, depending on size

8 walnuts in their shell, fresh (wet) if in season, otherwise dried

250ml cold milk (only if using dried nuts)

100g butter, lightly softened

About 200g Roquefort or Stilton

Using a small knife, cut off 2–3cm from the base of the celery bunch(es). One by one, remove the outer stalks (save these for stocks, soups etc.) keeping the most tender inner stalks, i.e. about half of the bunch. Soak these in iced water for about 10 minutes, then drain, wrap in a damp tea towel and refrigerate until needed.

Remove the walnuts from their shells (if using dried, keeping some in the shell for serving, if you like). If using fresh (wet) nuts, use the tip of the knife to remove the skins. Blanch dried walnuts, 2 or 3 at a time, in boiling water for 2 minutes, then use a knife tip to remove the skins, and immerse the nuts in the cold milk. Place in the fridge with the celery.

Put the softened butter into a bowl and crumble in enough of the cheese to give the strength of flavour required. Roughly mix together, using a fork.

Arrange the celery stems on a wooden cheese board, filling the hollows of these with the Roquefort butter. Keep a few stems unfilled and place the rest of the cheese on the board, so guests can help themselves accordingly. Drain the dried walnuts, if using, and add these or the fresh walnuts to the board, including any reserved dried nuts in shells.