This rustic, potato purée from the Auvergne region of France is divine. Tomme fraîche de l’Aubrac is traditionally used but hard to find; Swiss Appenzeller is a good substitute. The amount of cheese you need will depend on the finished weight of the purée, so buy extra to make sure you have enough. To take this dish to another level, fry small back fat dice until lightly golden then tip it over the aligot as you serve.
SERVES 8
1.25kg floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or King Edward
250ml crème fraîche
250ml milk
125g butter, cut into small pieces
400–500g Tomme fraîche de l’Aubrac cheese, cut into very small pieces
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Peel the potatoes and wash in cold water, then place in a saucepan and cover with lightly salted cold water. Bring to the boil and cook over a medium heat until tender when tested with the tip of a knife.
Just before the potatoes are cooked, put the crème fraîche and milk into a pan and bring to the boil, then strain through a fine chinois into a bowl.
You will need to weigh the purée before you add the cheese, so either put the pan you are using on the scales so you can calculate the weight of the purée once made, or have a warmed bowl ready to tip the mixture into for weighing.
Drain the potatoes thoroughly and pass through a potato ricer or a mouli on the finest setting, into the pan. Using a wooden spoon, incorporate the butter a little at a time into the hot potato, then gradually beat in the very hot crème fraîche and milk mixture. It should be at 60–64°C.
Calculate the weight of the purée at this stage, then measure out 80g cheese for every 200g purée.
Put the pan over a low heat and, using a wooden spoon, gradually incorporate the pieces of cheese. Work the mixture well; the purée will become smoother and more elastic, eventually turning stringy when you lift it up with the spoon. Check the seasoning, adding plenty of pepper (the cheese provides enough salt).
Transfer the aligot to a warmed dish to serve. If necessary, it can be kept warm in a bain-marie for 10–15 minutes, but after this it will start to lose its heat and character.