g VEGETABLES g CONTENTS
Vegetables that are sautéed, or pan-fried, are crisp and golden on the outside, and soft and tender inside. Being partially caramelized, they’re full of flavor and look appetizing, too.
The best vegetables for sautéing are those that are tender, such as zucchini, onions, mushrooms, and eggplant. Other, harder vegetables (such as root vegetables) will have to be precooked, for instance parboiled (and then drained) before frying.
Use a large, wide-based, nonstick sauté pan or frying pan. The wide base and low sides allow steam to evaporate, so the vegetables will brown rather than steam in their juices and turn soggy. Sauté pans tend to be straight-sided, a little deeper than frying pans, and have a lid, making them more versatile.
Cut the vegetables into thin slices or small pieces, so they cook quickly without needing a lot of oil. Don’t use vegetables straight from the fridge; if cold, vegetables won’t cook as well or brown properly. They must also be completely dry before sautéing.
Use a good-quality oil or a mixture of oil with butter. Butter gives good flavor, but if it gets too hot it will burn. Don’t use much fat; as long as the pan is hot enough, it won’t be necessary.
Make sure the pan is big enough to take the vegetables easily, without overcrowding; if the pan is too full, the vegetables won’t brown. Sauté in batches if the pan isn’t large enough.
To begin with, sauté the vegetables over high heat, stirring and turning constantly, until they start to brown. Reduce the heat and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until tender. Keep the vegetables moving to be sure that they cook evenly. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to move them around, or shake the pan.
Potato cakes make a great accompaniment to grilled meats, especially steak. Use leftover mashed potatoes, or cook potatoes in a pan of salted boiling water for 15–20 minutes until soft, then drain and mash. Mix with chopped fresh herbs, for instance parsley or chives, and chopped scallion or shredded parboiled savoy cabbage, then add an egg yolk and salt and pepper. Shape into round cakes, chill for about an hour, then fry for 2–3 minutes on each side until golden.
See also At-a-glance Guide to Cooking Vegetables