Walking TourBeaulieu’s Backstreets & Beaches

Surrounded by stunning scenery, abounding in noble vestiges of belle-époque architecture and graced with one of Mediterranean France’s mildest climates, the seaside village of Beaulieu-sur-Mer is an enchanting spot. Despite its obvious touristic appeal, Beaulieu has retained – more so than many Côte d’Azur resorts – a sense of history and local community that continue to stand the test of time.

1 Marché de Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Beaulieu mornings kick off with a trip to the lively fruit and vegetable market (place du Général de Gaulle; h8.30am-1pm). Mediterranean produce takes centre stage here, including locally grown citrus and olives. On July and August evenings, the belle-époque bandstand in the adjacent square forms the scenic backdrop for Beaulieu’s series of summer concerts.

2 Tennis Club de Beaulieu

The ping and whizz of tennis balls greets you at Beaulieu’s venerable tennis club %04 93 01 05 19; www.itf-beaulieu.com; 4 rue Alexandre de Yougoslavie), founded In 1899 by British furniture magnate Sir Blundell Maple. The hard-packed red-clay courts have hosted everyone from kings to budding superstars – but everyday Berlugans (Beaulieu residents) are equally welcome. Pull up a plastic chair any time of day and watch club members compete.

3 Plage des Fourmis

Perhaps no place better epitomises Beaulieu’s timeless allure than this pretty beach at the centre of town. Backed by a palm-lined promenade and the city’s century-old casino, it gazes across a sheltered bay towards the Villa Grecque Kérylos, a magnificent turn-of-the-20th-century faux-Greek villa. Families flock here for the calm waters and convenient in-town location.

4 Port des Pêcheurs

Yachts and pleasure craft are the first thing you’ll likely notice when you gaze out over Beaulieu’s port (quai Whitechurch), hence the French name Port de Plaisance. But tucked away at the southern edge, a small coterie of fishermen still bring in their catch each morning. Come by at 9am or so to see them unloading directly onto the wharf.

5 L’Olivaie

A visit to this olive-shaded enclave (rue Jean Bracco) on the edge of town feels like you’re stepping back into another century, before casinos and easy rail access made the French Riviera famous. Locals relax on benches beneath ancient olive branches, reading or chatting with friends. It’s also a perennial draw for kids, who come here for impromptu games of football.

6 Plage Petite Afrique

‘Little Africa’ perfectly describes this hot and sunny stretch of sand. Dwarfed by the dramatic cliffs at Beaulieu’s eastern edge, this long public beach is another long-standing family favourite. Umbrella pines create shade for little ones swinging and sliding in the playground, beach volleyball games spontaneously materialise, and swimmers dive from the platform just offshore.

Getting There

g Lignes d’Azur bus 81 or 100 from Nice (20 minutes).

d To Beaulieu-sur-Mer station (10 minutes from Nice Ville).