Mount Aconcagua lies in the Southern Andes Mountains, in the Mendoza province of west-central Argentina. It is acclaimed as the highest point in the Western Hemisphere. The peak is located mostly in Argentina, but its western flanks back into the coastal lowlands of Chile. The name Aconcagua originated from the Quechua “Ackon Cahuak,” which translate to “Sentinel of Stone.”
Aconcagua is widely accepted as the highest Western Hemisphere peak; however, its precise elevation has been debated since the 20th century. According to the Military Geographical Institute of Argentina, the highest summit is 22,831 feet above sea level. Yet in January of 2001, Italian geologist Giorgio Poretti led a team of scientists to measure Aconcagua’s height using an advanced Global Positioning System, (GPS), and the team reported an elevation of 22,840. Currently, this new figure is not recognized by the government of Argentina or by the National Geographic Society. Aconcagua’s southern and lower summit has been reported to be at 22,736 feet. Both summits are connected by a ridge, Cresta del Guanaco, about a half mile long.
The Andes Mountains tower above the Southern Hemisphere as a result of the Nazca plate, a geologic formation that is shifting from beneath the Pacific Ocean and diving underneath South America. This collision creates consistent earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and the uplift that became the incredible mountain: Aconcagua. Although formed from a volcanic origin, the mountain itself is not active.
Extending to more than 4.25 miles above sea level, Aconcagua generates its own weather. A wide range of temperatures and weather conditions present themselves between late November and late February, from warm days to freezing nights, with snow, wind, and extremely low humidity. Clear days do not happen often, but on those cloudless, sunny days, climbers may see the Pacific Ocean from the summit. This proximity to the ocean is a large factor in creating the more violent weather that can affect climbers on Aconcagua. The frequent cloud cover at the summits has earned it the respectful nickname “Viento Blanco.” Wind storms on Aconcagua are common and fierce. Dozens of climbers have perished as a consequence of the unpredictable weather.
Although weather on Aconcagua can present obstacles for climbers, the mountain does not confront climbers with many technical challenges. Two bits of evidence: 1) a summit was almost completed by climbers on motorcycles taking the Normal Route; and 2) dogs have accompanied their owners to the summit.
The official climbing season for Aconcagua extends from November 15 to about March 15. Climbers will experience the best conditions between late November and late February. The two factors that dictate this calendar are weather and logistics. The weather during this preferred period is warmer in the Austral (Southern) Hemisphere, and the climate on Aconcagua is more stable. Also, climbers have access to necessary elements during this time, including mules, base camp supplies, porters, and other climbing essentials.
Aconcagua was officially conquered first in 1897 by a Swiss mountaineer, Matthias Zurbritten. Previous attempts had begun during the 1880s. Although the first summit is credited to Zurbritten, traces of the Inca civilization and culture have been found near the summit.
The passes surrounding Aconcagua historically gained traffic through military use. In the effort to liberate Chile from Spain, General Jose de San Martin had traveled the area frequently.
By 1950, most sides of Aconcagua had been climbed, and variants of the original routes have since been added, with a consistent increase in successful summits.
The Normal Route of Aconcagua is through a series of camps. Beginning at Base Camp, climbers advance up the glacier to Camp 1, then onward to Camp 2, which is perched on a plateau 15,500 feet above sea level. It is often at Camp 2 that climbers begin to feel the effects of the hazardous winds on the mountain. The views from this point are inspirational and include parts of the Andean chain of mountains. The final camp, Camp 3, is at 19,900 feet above sea level and is the final place to rest before the push to the summit. To reach the top from Camp 3, climbers must use the Guanacos Traverse, which consists of steep rock bands covered in icy snow. The best views at this point in the climb are found at dawn, when the sun is rising above the Andes Mountains. Finally, climbers continue up the traverse until they are standing upon the summit, 22,831 feet above sea level.
Paul Gussfeldt attempted to summit Mount Aconcagua in 1883, but unfortunately, he failed. Gussfeldt was a German scientist and an experienced explorer of Africa and Arabia. His climb lead him up the northern portion of the mountain in the hope that because that side saw more sunlight, it would be free of snow and ice. Aconcagua was mostly a mystery during this time, meaning that much of the route in those early years of exploration was mapped through guesswork.
Gussfeldt’s climbing equipment, as was the case with many early climbers, was rudimentary. The list of his personal equipment included: silk and woolen shirts, two pairs of underpants, two pairs of woolen socks, one pair of pants, leg warmers, knitted jacket, vest, two pairs of woolen cuffs, woolen gloves and a bandana. Modern mountaineering gear is much more advanced and specifically made for the subzero temperatures found on mountains such as Aconcagua.
The first recorded summit is attributed to the Fitzgerald expedition in January of 1897, more specifically to Matthias Zurbriggen, the Swiss expedition guide. This expedition was the first to use the Horcones valley approach. In mid-January, Zurbriggen had reached the ridge between the two summits and two days later, on the 14th, was able to summit alone. The entire expedition did not make it to the summit due to altitude sickness, so Zurbriggen accomplished the climb alone. In fact, he holds a number of records for first ascents, as well as the second ascent of Mount Cook. The route created by Zurbriggen is now called the Normal Route and is the most frequently used route on Aconcagua.
Currently, the record for the youngest climber to reach the summit of Aconcagua is held by Matthew Moniz of Colorado. Moniz completed Aconcagua at the age of 11, in December of 2008. In 2010, he was named the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year.