Cured sea bream with pomegranate juice & cumin

Julia was a good friend and a customer before she came to work with us. She has uncompromising good taste and an interesting opinion about everything. She had this dish one night for dinner, and copious amounts of wine, and asked if she could come and work with us. We were thrilled of course, and just hoped she wouldn’t sober up and change her mind. She hasn’t yet. She now runs our kitchen with efficiency and grace, sharing her curiosity and love of good food.

A 1 lb 2 oz/500g fish will be enough for 4–6 people as a mezze

1 sea bream, filleted and skinned (ask your fishmonger to do it)

1 green chili, deseeded

½ lemon

2–3 sprigs of fresh oregano

sea salt

For the dressing

1 pomegranate

2½ tbsp olive oil

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp sea salt

Place the skinless fillets on a clean board. Slice them as thinly as you can and lay them flat on a large serving plate. Try to keep all the pieces in a single layer so they all get seasoned.

Cut the pomegranate in half and squeeze one half over a bowl to produce 2½–3½ tablespoons of juice (it is easier than it seems), then pick some seeds out of the other half to use as garnish later on. Mix the juice with the olive oil, cumin and salt.

Slice the green chili very finely and place a sliver on every slice of fish. Squeeze the half lemon all over the plate, then pour over the dressing, making sure all the fish gets some. Sprinkle on the picked oregano leaves and a touch of sea salt. Allow 5 minutes for the flavors to combine, then garnish with the reserved pomegranate seeds and serve.

Fresh vegetable mezze

We always like to serve some form of fresh, cooked or raw vegetable at the start of a meal, when we get something nice. We may add some salt or a dipping sauce. Here are some of our favorites:

Little radishes with paprika salt

Quarter or halve the radishes and place them in a bowl of cold water. Mix 1¼ tablespoons of sea salt with half a teaspoon of smoky paprika. Remove the radishes from the water just before serving and either sprinkle with the paprika-salt or serve it on the side.

Shaved fennel with lemon and oil

Cut the fennel into thin strips. Squeeze over the juice of a lemon and add a tablespoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt.

Kohlrabi with chive sour cream

Peel the kohlrabi and cut into wedges. Serve with a little dish of chive sour cream (here) or good, thick yogurt.

Corn with chili flakes

Boil the corn in water seasoned with 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar and a pinch of turmeric for every quart/liter, as this adds a great sweetness and intensifies the natural flavor. Drizzle with olive oil and chili flakes.