The cheap price of oil and gas in the UAE has shaped a culture of car ownership. The high value that’s placed on personal mobility is influenced by the remote desert origin of many tribes and the desire to have women protected from public view. Large, expensive four-by-four cars are favored, because they accommodate the larger families common in the Emirates, and they are practical for desert off-roading. Most Emirati families employ a live-in chauffer, because in the past, it was considered unseemly for Emirati women to drive. It’s now becoming more prevalent for women to drive themselves, but large families still also rely on a driver to ferry multiple children about.
Most cars have tinted windows to shield passengers from the strong sunlight, and also to enhance privacy. A vehicle used to transport Emirati women is permitted to have darker tinted windows.
Although speed cameras and radar controls are now a common sight on the roads, there are still proportionately more road fatalities in the UAE than in other countries of a comparable level of development. To appreciate why, you have to understand that until the 1970s, it was more customary to travel by camel than by car. The first generation of Emirati drivers never took driving lessons, because there was no one to teach them, so good habits such as wearing seatbelts never become engrained. The UAE only made it mandatory to wear seat belts in 2017, but it is still usual to see children clambering about unrestrained.
The fast line in the UAE is jokingly referred to as the “Emirati Lane,” as Emiratis tend to use it more than anyone else. Tailgating is a common tactic deployed to encourage slower cars to move out of the way. Young Emirati males in particular have a penchant for speed, and while a reckless few take that urge onto the nation’s roads, others channel it into dune-bashing (driving on the dunes), video games, go-karting, speedboating, or jet skiing.
It often appears as though people are in a hurry in the UAE, not necessarily to be punctual, but to arrive first, in order to assert their dominance. Some local people feel it is their right to cut in line, whether in supermarket queues or on the highways, reflecting the ever-present hierarchical nature of the society. It is never wise to try to confront such people in an angry manner.
Due to the transient nature of expatriate community, the second-hand car market is always booming. For those holding driving licenses from Western Europe, North America, other countries of the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and Turkey, applying for a UAE license is fairly straightforward, but other nationalities need to take a test.
As most drivers are foreign, each brings to the road different habits based on the driving culture of their respective countries. On the roads, Westerners tend to use the middle lanes, and the drivers of trucks and delivery vehicles, who are usually from Pakistan or Bangladesh, use the outer (slowest) lane, or specially designated truck roads whenever possible.
Emirati roads are modeled on the American system, with straight roads that run on a grid and almost always cross each other at traffic lights, as opposed to roundabouts. Wherever possible, long tunnels and spaghetti junctions have been built to ease the flow of traffic. Roads have as many as ten lanes on each side, so congestion is rare compared to most global cities. The exception is the Sharjah side of Dubai, where road blockages are common. Because the UAE’s cities were designed to be car, rather than pedestrian friendly, walkers are often faced with crumbling sidewalks, steep curbs, and limited crossing points.
Visitors driving through the Emirates are likely to use the main E11 highway that runs parallel to the coast, all the way from Abu Dhabi to Ras Al Khaimah. This road encompasses the notorious “Sheikh Zayed Road” in Dubai, from where you can spot most of Dubai’s landmark buildings along the way. There are no traffic lights and few easy stopping places en route, so drivers can find themselves longing for an opportunity to take a break and stretch their legs. Be warned that should you miss your turn, finding your way back to the right route can be an onerous task. Although there is always English signage, it can be confusing as roads often go by different names. As well as being known by their colloquial old name, roads in Abu Dhabi were recently renamed after members of the ruling family. To add to the confusion, roads in the UAE are also known by numbers, but somewhat exasperatingly, many numbered roads have recently been given new numbers. Add to this the problems that foreigners pronounce street names differently to Emiratis, and that there is no postcode system, it is no wonder that cab drivers can, at times, be bewildered.
Although cab-hailing tech companies such as “Uber” have had difficulties getting past government regulations to become firmly established in the UAE, taxis tend to be reasonably priced, abundant, and reliable. In Dubai and Abu Dhabi, there is also the option of taking a water taxi to some touristy areas.
Dubai’s metro system is reliable, clean, and a safe way to travel, as are the trams operating in Dubai’s Jumeirah area. Elsewhere in the UAE, public transport is limited to a network of buses.
Coach and bus services link the major cities, comfortably and affordably, and minivans provide links with intercity services. Most stations are themselves comparatively well appointed, clean, and safe, as are nearly all the public spaces in the UAE. Front seats in buses are reserved for women and children and in some carriages on the subway and trams.
The UAE’s railway line currently only exists to transport industrial products. The appetite for further public transport infrastructure is limited by the fact that Emiratis don’t place a high value on public transport, because they rarely have reason to use it themselves.
Plans for a grand US $11 billion 745-mile (1,200 km) Etihad Rail network across the GCC, which, in the UAE, would span the country from Saudi Arabia to Oman, have been stalled since oil prices began to slump in 2016, and an earlier plan for a subway system in Abu Dhabi also failed to gather momentum.
Instead, the focus has shifted to planning for new modes of transport: electric charging points are now generously dotted across the UAE’s road network, and it is anticipated that 25 percent of Dubai’s transportation will be autonomous by 2030. Crewless flying taxis are currently being tested.
The UAE has also positioned itself as an international hub for air travel. Dubai International Airport is currently in the world’s top five busiest airports for international passenger traffic, and Abu Dhabi Airport, which currently has a capacity of 23 million passengers a year, is constructing a new midfield terminal that will accommodate an additional 30 million passengers per year, reflecting the anticipated increase in tourist numbers. Initially scheduled to open in 2017, the airport extension has also been a victim of the stagnating economy, and has been delayed until 2019.
The UAE boasts some of the most luxurious hotels in the world, and has garnered a reputation for extravagance and glamor. But, there are plenty of other options too for smaller budgets too.
There are many upmarket “Arabian-themed” hotels in the UAE. They are often located far out in the desert with interiors inspired by One Thousand and One Arabian Nights and a skewed Western vision of Arabian opulence. Although beautiful, these hotels are not to be confused with the historical reality. Emirati forts were simple and sparsely furnished, and the palaces of some members of the UAE’s royal family are filled with European antiques, rather than exuberant symbols of their Emirati heritage.
The best of these Arabian-themed hotels is the Tilal Liwa Hotel in Abu Dhabi’s Rub al Khali desert. It truly seems to rise like a mirage from the sand dunes that surround it. From the pool, you can gaze through a sandstone archway out onto the dunes as you swim. Others offering comparable luxury are Qasr al Sarab, and in Dubai, the fortress-like Bab al Shams desert resort and spa.
For a more authentic desert retreat, the Arabian Nights Village in Abu Dhabi provides luxury-tented accommodations, palm houses, and a fort tower that echo the country’s past, but with the added comforts of plush bathrooms and air conditioning.
Even UAE’s many ultra-modern glass and steel hotels don’t neglect traditional Arabian hospitality and offer guests Arabic coffee and dates as they check in.
A central base to explore Dubai’s heritage is the Arabian Courtyard Hotel & Spa, which is located opposite the Dubai Museum and a block away from Dubai’s oldest neighborhood, the historic Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood. You can also stay in a historic villa in one of Al Fahidi’s winding pedestrian streets, at the boutique XVA Art Hotel.
Al Ain is the UAE’s cultural heartland, with well-preserved, sandcastle-like forts and authentic traditional souks that have been preserved and recently opened up to the public. The city is a must for those wanting to understand what the UAE was like before the advent of oil wealth. The main city is served by leading hotel brands such as Hilton, and Rotana, and the local chain Danat that all provide five-star modern service with an Arabian touch. Alternatively, Al Ain’s Mercure Grand Hotel, which sits atop Jebel Hafeet Mountain at 3,000 feet (914 m), is a good choice for stargazers and those wanting to get away from the summer humidity. Anantara’s Eastern Mangroves resort provides an ideal Arabian-themed base for kayaking along the waterways.
In Abu Dhabi, modern luxury is showcased at the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Hotel and the Yas Viceroy Hotel that bridges over the Formula 1 racetrack at Yas Marina Circuit. Both hotels give the impression they were designed for the space age. At Jumeirah at Etihad you’ll find wealthy Emiratis arriving in their Lamborghinis to sip coffee and enjoy the sea views from the sleek, polished lobby. Across the road is the golden Emirates Palace, literally dripping in gold, as its ceilings and walls are decorated with gold leaf, and gold bars are available to buy from vending machines. But aside from all the bling on display, what makes this hotel stand out is its truly palatial beach club, which boasts a water park, cycling paths, and hammocks in the water, and is well worth a visit for those who can afford to splash out. For those who can’t, you can visit the main wing of Emirates Palace for free, provided you are smartly and conservatively dressed, and are agreeable to buying a “camelchinno” (cappuccino made with camel milk) or other beverage from one of their food outlets. Emirates Palace also offers the opportunity to enjoy the sight of the new Al Nahyan royal palaces next door. They are an architectural triumph, reminiscent of the Taj Mahal, with striking gold leaf calligraphy adorning their rooftop domes.
In Dubai, those seeking ostentatious opulence will appreciate Burj Al Arab, the so-called “seven star” hotel in the shape of a dhow sail; it sits on its own island located off the coast of Jumeirah. This hotel is not only decked out in gold leaf, but also boasts a seafood restaurant, “Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara,” with floor-to-ceiling aquariums that make you feel as though you are dining in a glass submarine.
For fashionistas, the Palazzo Versace that overlooks Dubai Creek is the epitome of overstated Italian elegance, as Donatella Versace herself took a hand in designing it, while the Armani Hotel in the Burj Khalifa is somewhat more understated and masculine in its design.
The wealthier families looking to stay long-term in the Emirates can afford to stay in palatial villas in gated compounds, which might come with a swimming pool and communal playgrounds, a gym, and shops. But most expatriates settle with lower-cost apartments, in buildings that usually boast a rooftop pool and gym. These flats can be spacious—the kind of accommodation that is perhaps more familiar to Americans than Europeans. Most apartments are let unfurnished, devoid even of “white goods” such as fridges and freezers, and fittings such as curtain railings. Newcomers are usually issued with an allowance from their employer for furnishings. Ikea has outlets in Abu Dhabi and Dubai, and numerous community Facebook groups exist for expatriates to buy and sell second-hand furniture items. Residential compounds and apartment blocks usually have their own maintenance staff who can help out with fitting appliances.
The high standard of living experienced by most of Emiratis has meant that health across the society has improved. In 2016, life expectancy for Abu Dhabi Emiratis was 75.9 years for male citizens and 79.5 years for female citizens. The global average is 70 for men and 74 for women.
But Emiratis are starting to suffer from the problems brought about by affluence, including obesity that leads to heart disease and diabetes. Statistics show that more than half of all deaths in the country may be attributed to cardiovascular disease, road traffic accidents, cancer, and congenital abnormalities. Genetic blood abnormalities such as thalassemia are particularly prevalent, because of the high incidence of intermarriage within a comparatively small stock of people.
The UAE is investing in healthcare in the hope of attracting “medical tourists” from overseas, as well as catering to the needs of their own residents. Emiratis get free healthcare, which includes dental care, basic IVF, and mental health support, whereas the level of insured healthcare for expatriates is dependent upon their salary package.
The healthcare system is heavily commercialized, meaning that doctors are financially motivated to oversubscribe medications and give patients a range of medical tests that they might not always need. This has led to a growing number of Emiratis becoming addicted to prescription drugs, such as Tramadol, Xanax, and Valium.
Public hospitals provide care for all levels of medical insurance. Private hospitals, where standards of healthcare are thought to be higher, are selective. The increasing cost of healthcare means that insurance premiums are rising and the scope of ailments covered is being cut back. Maternity procedures, which used to be free for most expatriates, now increasingly come at a cost.
All migrants wishing to be employed in the UAE must be tested for the presence of HIV, and permission to remain is refused if the virus is found. Although Aids cases are low in the UAE, the Middle East is among the top two regions in the world with the fastest growing HIV epidemic.
Smoking is banned in public places such as shopping malls, but it is still legal to smoke in bars and restaurants. Smoking rates among Emirati men are still relatively high. According to City Hospital in Dubai 23 percent of men are smokers. Lung cancer is the most common form of cancer among them. But the sight of an Emirati female smoking in public would be sure to raise eyebrows among her compatriots.
Shisha, which is also known as hookah or “hubbly bubbly,” is a tobacco smoked through a water pipe that’s widely enjoyed throughout the Arab world.
Young Emirati males are particularly fond of smoking dokha, a combination of leaves, bark, and herbs, from a medwakh pipe. It’s a heady blend that makes users immediately lightheaded and bleary-eyed, and is believed to be very damaging to the health, although its exact contents are unknown. Dokha usage appears to be on the rise. The results of a 2016 health-screening program in Abu Dhabi showed that almost 30 percent of Emiratis in their thirties smoke from a medwakh. The government is keen to reduce smoking and introduced an excise duty in 2017 that doubled the price of tobacco. But the price of a packet of cigarettes is still much cheaper than in most Western countries.
One of the most attractive aspects of life in the UAE is that it feels safe. In fact, in a 2017 report prepared by the data firm Numbeo, Abu Dhabi was named the safest city in the world. There can be few other countries where you would find so many families out in the evenings enjoying the parks that are generally devoid of graffiti or vandalism. This may be, in part, because there are fewer young people living in the UAE who are of an age when they are most likely to get into skirmishes with the law. Expatriate families choose to move their youngsters home when they reach adolescence. Most of the UAE’s universities are Emirati-only, so most expatriate young people will enrol in further education overseas.
The fear of being caught and the severe punishment that follows keeps acts of theft and violence at a comparatively low rate, as does the fact that no foreigners are permitted to live in the country if they do not have steady, gainful employment. However, in the corporate world, there is some temptation for people to defraud customers. Many people living in the UAE have at some point been called by a “company” giving them the good news that they have won a lottery, and then asking for their bank details in order to claim their prize.
Perhaps the most dangerous thing to do in the UAE is to drive during a heavy rainfall. The country’s drainage was not designed to deal with heavy outbursts and as consequence flash floods are common. Fatal accidents are also common during foggy conditions, as drivers do not always keep to safe stopping distances or use the appropriate lights.
The police, who are mostly made up of Emiratis, have strict orders to uphold the law as it is given to them, and rarely show discretion. Be polite when dealing with them, and follow their instructions scrupulously. Police officers don’t always have a firm grasp of English, and often police documents that you may be expected to sign, such as traffic violation notices, will be written only in Arabic. In such cases, try to find somebody who is able to translate before you sign anything.
The UAE has firmly positioned itself as an ally of the developed Western nations, as well as Saudi Arabia. Together the seven Emirates are prepared to take steps to make sure that their security and reputation are not threatened by terrorist violence.
The UAE has thankfully not yet experienced a full-scale attack. ISIS is a Sunni militant group and it tends to attack Shia Muslims; the UAE is a Sunni society. But this does not mean that there have not been terror threats, and the UAE makes extensive use of surveillance and the secret police to combat these.
In 2015, an Islamist terror cell was foiled planning an attack against malls and hotels. The same year, an Emirati woman, motivated by extremist ideology, was executed for stabbing to death an American teacher, Ibolya Ryan. Perhaps the greatest threat to national security comes from the Houthis in Yemen who claim to have fired missiles (unsuccessfully) at targets in Abu Dhabi.
The danger is that in the wake of a wide-scale attack on the UAE, not only would its fledgling tourist industry be impacted, but also a proportion of its expatriate population would be prompted to move home, with potentially disastrous affects on the local economy.