Index
See also Accommodations index, below.
General Index
A
Academy Gallery (Venice), 210–211
Accommodations. See also Accommodations Index
best, 2
Florence, 118–126
Rome, 38–49
Venice, 181–191
Acqua alta (Venice), 180
Air travel, 230
Rome, 28–29
Venice, 173–174
Ai Tre Scalini (Rome), 105
Alexanderplatz (Rome), 103
Alinari (Florence), 117
All Saints’ Anglican Church (Rome), 103
Al Prosecco (Venice), 226
Amici degli Uffizi membership, 137
Amici della Musica (Florence), 163
Ancient Rome, 33
Anticlea Antiquariato (Venice), 223
Antico Caffè della Pace (Rome), 104
Apartment rentals
Florence, 126
Rome, 38–39
Venice, 184
Aperitivo, 104
Apollo of Veii (Rome), 90
Appartamenti Reali (Florence), 156
Appartamento Borgia (Rome), 68
Appia Antica Park (Rome), 95
Archaeological Museum (Florence), 152–153
Arch of Septimius Severus (Rome), 76
Arch of Titus (Rome), 78
Arco di Costantino (Arch of Constantine; Rome), 72
Area codes, 235
ArtViva, 160
Atelier Segalin di Daniela Ghezzo (Venice), 223
ATMs and banks, 235–236
Rome, 37
Auditorium-Parco della Musica (Rome), 103
Augustus’s Mausoleum (Rome), 87
Aventine Hill (Rome), 77
B
Bardini Garden (Florence), 155
Bargello Museum (Florence), 145
Bartolomeo Colleoni (Venice), 210
Basilica di San Marco (Venice), 203, 206
Basilica di Santa Maria dell’Assunta (Torcello), 219
Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua), 228
Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore (Verona), 229
Basilica Julia (Rome), 77
Basilica of Constantine and Maxentius (Rome), 77–78
Baths of Caracalla (Rome), 72, 104
Baths of Diocletian (Rome), 92–93
Battistero (Baptistery)
Florence, 136
Pisa, 169
Siena, 167
Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome, 39
Beer House Club (Florence), 164–165
Bernini, Gian Lorenzo, 23, 34, 63, 65–67, 69, 81, 84, 85, 89–91, 110, 167
tomb of (Rome), 92
Bertozzini Profumeria dal 1913 (Rome), 101
Biblioteca delle Oblate (Florence), 161
Biblioteca Laurenziana (Florence), 150
Bici & Baci (Rome), 37
Biennale d’Arte (Venice), 27, 210
Biking
Florence, 117
Rome, 37
Bir and Fud (Rome), 105
Boboli Garden (Florence), 156–157
Borgia Apartments (Rome), 68
Bramante cloister (Rome), 82
Brunelleschi, Filippo, 22, 137, 140, 141, 145, 150, 151, 154, 155, 158
Bucintoro (Venice), 220
Burano, 219
Business hours, 235
Florence, 117
Bus travel, 235
Florence, 116
Tivoli, 109–110
Venice, 175
C
Ca’ del Sol Maschere (Venice), 223
Cafes
Florence, 164
Rome, 104
Venice, 225
Caffè Centrale (Venice), 226
Caffè dei Frari (Venice), 225
Caffè Florian (Venice), 225
Caffè Lavena (Venice), 225
Caffè Propaganda (Rome), 105
Caffè Sant’Ambrogio (Florence), 165
Caffetteria delle Oblate (Florence), 164
Calcio Storico (Florence), 27
Calendar of events, 26–27
Campanile di Giotto (Giotto’s Bell Tower; Florence), 140
Campanile di San Marco (Venice), 206–207
Campo de’ Fiori (Rome), 84, 102
Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa), 169
Campo Santa Margherita (Venice), 201
Camposanto (Pisa), 170
Cannaregio (Venice), 177
accommodations, 190–191
restaurants, 199–200
Canopo (Tivoli), 110
Capella Cerasi (Rome), 85
Capella Chigi (Rome), 85
Capitoline Hill (Rome), 103
Capitoline Museums (Rome), 72, 74
Cappella Barbadori-Capponi (Florence), 158
Cappella Bardi (Florence), 155
Cappella Baroncelli (Florence), 154–155
Cappella Brancacci (Florence), 158
Cappella Bufalini (Rome), 80
Cappella Carafa (Rome), 83
Cappella Castellani (Florence), 154
Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua), 227–228
Cappella dei Magi (Florence), 150
Cappella dei Principi (Florence), 149
Cappella del Cardinale del Portogallo (Florence), 157
Cappella del Rosario (Venice), 210
Cappella di Santa Fina (San Gimignano), 171
Cappella Frangipane e Maddaleni-Capiferro (Rome), 83
Cappella Gondi (Florence), 151
Cappella Nerli (Florence), 158
Cappella Pazzi (Florence), 155
Cappella Peruzzi (Florence), 155
Cappella Rucellai (Florence), 151
Cappella Sassetti (Florence), 148
Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels; Florence), 149–150
Caravaggio, 4, 69, 74, 82, 84, 85, 89, 91, 96, 143, 156
Carnevale masks, Venice, 223
Carpaccio, Vittore, 22, 210, 211
Car travel and rentals, 231–233
Venice, 175
Casa dei Vettii (Pompeii), 109
Casa del Fauno (Pompeii), 109
Casa Diana (Ostia Antica), 107
Casa di Giulietta (Verona), 229
Case Romane del Celio (Rome), 78–79
Castello (Venice), 177
accommodations, 186–187
exploring, 209–210
restaurants, 196–197
Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome), 70
Castroni (Rome), 101
Catacombe di Domitilla (Rome), 96
Catacombe di San Callisto (Catacombs of St. Callixtus; Rome), 95–96
Catacombe di San Sebastiano (Catacombs of St. Sebastian; Rome), 96
Catacombs (Rome), 34
Cavour 313 (Rome), 105
Celio (Rome), 33
Cellphones, 238
Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia (Florence), 152
Centrale Montemartini (Rome), 94
Centro Storico (Rome), 33
accommodations, 42–44
restaurants, 53–55
Chiesa Evangelica Valdese (Rome), 103
Children. See Families with children
Chiostro dei Morti (Cloister of the Dead; Florence), 151–152
Chiostro dei Voti (Florence), 153–154
Chiostro del Bramante (Rome), 82
Chiostro Verde (Green Cloister; Florence), 151
Christmas Blessing of the Pope (Rome), 27
Ciampino Airport (Rome), 29
Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus; Rome), 74
Circumvesuviana Railway, 108
Cities Reference (Venice), 184
City codes, 235
City Pass (Venice), 212
Climate, 26
Coin (Rome), 101
Collegiata (San Gimignano), 171
Colosseum (Colosseo; Rome), 74–75
Conad City (Florence), 126
Concorso Ippico Internazionale, 27
Consulates, 236
Context Travel, 99, 100, 148, 160, 162
Convents, accommodations in
Florence, 126
Rome, 39
Coopculture (Rome), 63
Corridoio Vasariano (Vasari Corridor; Florence), 148
Country code, 235
Crypta Balbi (Rome), 83
Cuisine, 15
Curia (Rome), 76
D
Decumanus (Ostia Antica), 107
Disabled travelers, 236
Doctors and hospitals, 37, 177, 180
Donatello, 22, 80, 137, 140, 145–147, 167, 228
Dorsoduro (Venice), 177
accommodations, 187–188
exploring, 210–214
restaurants, 197–198
Drinking laws, 236
Duomo (Cathedral; Cattedrale)
Florence (Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore), 115, 140–141
accommodations near, 119
restaurants near, 127–130
Pisa, 169–170
E
Easter Sunday (Pasqua), 27
Eataly (Rome), 102
Eats & Sheets (Rome), 39
Egyptian obelisk (Florence), 157
Egyptian obelisk (Rome), 66, 85
Electricity, 236
Embassies and consulates, 236
Emergencies, 236
Enoteca Provincia Romana (Rome), 105
Ethnographic Museum (Fiesole), 159
Etruscans, 16, 68, 90, 153, 159
Euphronios Krater (Rome), 90
EUR suburb (Rome), 94
F
Families with children, 236–237
best for, 2–3
Florence, 160–161
Rome, 99–100
suggested itinerary, 10–13
Venice, 220–222
Festa del Redentore, 27
Festa di San Giuseppe, 26
Festa di San Ranieri (Pisa), 27
Fiesole (Florence), 159–160
Firenze Card, 137
Firenze Musei, 144
Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci International Airport; Rome), 28
Florence, 112–165. See also specific neighborhoods
accommodations, 118–126
apartments and alternative accommodations, 126
address system, 114
arriving in, 112–113
cafes, 164
cuisine, 15
day trips from, 166–172
entertainment and nightlife, 163–165
exploring, 136–161
discount tickets, 137
index of attractions and sites, 136
getting around, 116–117
for kids, 160–161
layout, 114
neighborhoods in brief, 115
organized tours, 160
restaurants, 126–136
by cuisine, 127
reservations, 127
tripe, 130
shopping, 161–163
suggested itineraries, 7, 9, 12
visitor information, 114
Florence and Abroad, 126
Florence by Bike, 117
Florence Golden View Open Bar, 165
Fontana dei Draghi (Fountain of the Dragons; Tivoli), 110
Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Rome), 81
Fontana della Tartarughe (Fountain of the Tortoises; Rome), 103
Fontana delle Api (Fountain of the Bees; Rome), 91
Fontana delle Naiadi (Fountain of the Naiads; Rome), 103
Fontana dell’Organo Idraulico (Fountain of the Hydraulic Organ; Tivoli), 110
Fontana dell’Ovato (Tivoli), 110
Fontana del Moro (Fountain of the Moor; Rome), 81
Fontana del Nettuno (Neptune Fountain; Florence), 146
Fontana di Nettuno (Rome), 81
Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain; Rome), 88
Fontana di Vetro (Fountain of Glass; Tivoli), 110
Fori Imperiali (Imperial Forums; Rome), 75–76
Foro Romano (Roman Forum; Rome), 76–78
Forum of Augustus (Rome), 75
Forum of Julius Caesar (Rome), 76
Forum of Nerva (Rome), 75
Forum of Trajan (Rome), 76
Fountain of Neptune (Rome), 81
Fountain of the Bees (Rome), 91
Fountain of the Four Rivers (Rome), 81
Fountain of the Moor (Rome), 81
Fountain of the Naiads (Rome), 103
Fountain of the Tortoises (Rome), 103
Fountain of the Triton (Rome), 91
Fra’ Angelico, 69, 83, 98, 115, 116, 153
Franchi (Rome), 101
Free things to do, best, 3–4
Fuori Porta (Florence), 165
G
Galleria Borghese (Rome), 89
Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Florence), 156
Galleria degli Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery; Florence), 142–144
Galleria del Costume (Florence), 156
Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence), 152
Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome), 83–84
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Venice), 216
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica (Rome), 91–92
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica in Palazzo Corsini (Rome), 96, 98
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (Rome), 90
Galleria Spada (Rome), 84
Gallerie dell’Accademia (Venice), 210–211
Gates of Paradise (Florence), 141
Gays and lesbians, 237
Florence, 165
Gelaterie
Florence, 135–136
Rome, 62
Venice, 202
Ghetto (Venice), 217
Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 22, 137, 140, 141, 145, 154, 167
Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill; Rome), 77
Giardino Bardini (Florence), 155
Giardino di Boboli (Florence), 156–157
Gina PicNic (Rome), 58
Gioco del Ponte (Pisa), 27
Giotto, 68, 79, 140, 142, 155, 228
Giotto’s Bell Tower (Campanile di Giotto; Florence), 140
Gondolas (Venice), 178–180, 215
Gran Caffè Quadri (Venice), 225
Grand Canal (Venice), 179, 209
Great Synagogue of Rome, 85
Grotta Grande (Florence), 157
Gucci Museo (Florence), 144
H
Hadrian’s Villa (Tivoli), 110
Hall of the Chariot (Rome), 68
Harry’s Bar (Venice), 226
Health, 237
Historical Museum (Rome), 67
History of Italy, 14–25
Etruscans and Villanovans, 16
fall of the empire, Byzantine Italy and the “Dark Ages,” 19–20
Middle Ages, 20–21
Renaissance and Baroque Italy, 21–23
Roman Empire, 17–19
Roman Republic, 16–17
20th century, 24–25
unification of Italy, 23–24
Holidays, 26
Holy Week, 26–27
Hospitals, Rome, 37
Hotels. See Accommodations
House of the Vestal Virgins (Rome), 77
I
I Gesuati (Santa Maria del Rosario; Venice), 213
I Just Drive, 160
Il Caffè (aka Caffe Rosso; Venice), 225
Il Canovaccio (Venice), 223
Il Grifone (Venice), 223
Il Palio (Siena), 27
Il Passetto di Borgo (Rome), 71
Il Redentore (Venice), 218
Il Santino (Florence), 165
Imperial Forums (Rome), 75–76
Imperial Rostra (Rome), 76
Insurance, 237
Internet and Wi-Fi, 237
Florence, 117–118
Rome, 37
Venice, 180
Isolotto (Florence), 157
Itineraries, suggested, 5–13
Itinerari Segreti (Venice), 208
J
Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo; Rome), 77
Jewish Ghetto
Rome, 84–85
Venice, 217
Jewish Museum of Rome, 85
Jewish Museum of Venice, 216–217
Juliet’s Wall (Verona), 229
Julius Caesar, 16
K
Keats-Shelley House (Rome), 87–88
L
La Bottega dei Mascareri (Venice), 223
La Bottega del Caffè (Rome), 105
La Giudecca (Venice), 177
La Rinascente (Rome), 101
La Terrazza at the Continentale (Florence), 165
Laurentian Library (Florence), 150
Leaning Tower (Pisa), 169
Le Murate (Florence), 165
Leonardo da Vinci, 22, 69, 143, 147
Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (Fiumicino; Rome), 28–29
Le Terrazze (Florence), 164
LGBT travelers, 237
Libreria My Accademia (Florence), 144
Libreria Piccolomini (Siena), 167
Lido beaches (Venice), 219
Lippi, Filippino, 83, 143, 151, 152, 158
Lippi, Filippo, 84, 142, 143, 156
M
MACRO Testaccio (Rome), 94
Madova (Florence), 163
Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, 27
Mail and postage, 237–238
Rome, 37
Marchini Time (Venice), 225
Marco Polo International (Venice), 224
Marcus Aurelius, statue of (Rome), 74
Margaret DuChamp (Venice), 226
Markets, Rome, 102
Masks of Agostino Dessi (Florence), 163
Mausoleo di Augusto (Rome), 87
MAXXI (National Museum of XXI Century Arts; Rome), 85
Medi-Call Italia (Rome), 37
Medici Chapels (Cappelle Medicee; Florence), 149–150
Mercati di Traiano (Rome), 78
Mercatino dei Miracoli (Venice), 222
Mercatino dell’Antiquariato (Venice), 222
Mercato Centrale (Florence), 162
accommodations near, 122–124
exploring around, 149–150
restaurants near, 130–131
Mercato delle Pulci (Florence), 162
Mercato di San Lorenzo (Florence), 162
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio (Florence), 162
Mercatomonti (Rome), 102
Mercato Rialto (Venice), 201
Metropolitana (Metro; Rome), 35
Michelangelo Buonarroti, 22
Galleria dell’Accademia, 152
Pietà (Florence), 142
Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy), 149–150
Rome, 83
dome, 67
Moses, 79–80
Pietà, 66
Sistine Chapel, 69–70
Michelozzo, 147, 150, 153, 154
Mobile phones, 238
Monasteries and convents, accommodations in
Florence, 126
Rome, 39
Money and costs, 238–239
Mordi e Vai (Rome), 102
Mostodolce (Florence), 165
Musei Capitolini (Rome), 72, 74, 100
Musei di Antichità Classiche (Rome), 68
Museo Archeologico (Florence), 152–153
Museo Archeologico di Torcello, 219
Museo Carlo Bilotti (Rome), 89–90
Museo Civico, Siena, 167
Museo Civico e Pinacoteca (San Gimignano), 171
Museo Correr (Venice), 210
Museo degli Argenti (Florence), 156
Museo dei Fori Imperiali (Rome), 76, 78
Museo dei Ragazzi (Florence), 161
Museo della Civiltà Romana (Rome), 94, 100
Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome), 87
Museo dell’Opera
Florence, 155
Pisa, 170
Venice, 207
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Siena), 167
Museo del Merletto (Burano), 219
Museo del Vetro (Murano), 218–219
Museo di Orsanmichele (Florence), 145
Museo di San Marco (Venice), 203
Museo Ebraico di Roma (Rome), 85
Museo Ebraico di Venezia (Venice), 216–217
Museo e Cripta dei Frati Cappuccini (Rome), 91
Museo Gregoriano Egizio (Rome), 68
Museo Gregoriano Etrusco (Rome), 68
Museo Marino Marini (Florence), 151
Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Florence), 145
Museo Nazionale del Palazzo di Venezia (Rome), 79
Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (Rome), 90
Museo Nazionale Romano, 29, 92–93
Museo Pio Clementino (Rome), 68
Museo Storico (Rome), 67
Museo Storico dell’Opera del Duomo (Florence), 140, 141–142
Museo Zoologia “La Specola” (Florence), 155
Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars (Rome), 91
Museum of Roman Civilization (Rome), 94
Museum of the Imperial Forums (Rome), 78
Museum Pass (Venice), 212
Museums, best, 3
N
National Archaeological Museum (Siena), 167
National Etruscan Museum (Rome), 90
National Gallery of Ancient Art (Rome), 91–92
National Gallery of Modern Art (Rome), 90
Necropolis Vaticana (Rome), 67
New Sacristy (Sagrestia Nuova; Florence), 149–150
Newspapers and magazines, 37–38, 239
Florence, 118
NO.AU (Rome), 105
Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio (Rome), 60, 102
O
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (Florence), 163
Oltrarno (Florence), 116
exploring around, 155–159
restaurants, 134–135
Open Baladin (Rome), 105
Orsanmichele (Florence), 145–146
Ostia Antica, 106–107
P
Palatine Hill (Palatino; Rome), 78
Palazzo Altemps (Rome), 82
Palazzo Barberini (Rome), 91
Palazzo Davanzati (Florence), 147
Palazzo dei Conservatori (Rome), 72
Palazzo della Ragione (Padua), 228
Palazzo del Quirinale (Rome), 88
Palazzo Ducale (Venice), 207–208
Palazzo Farnese (Rome), 84
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Rome), 92
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Florence), 150
Palazzo Nuovo (Rome), 74
Palazzo Pitti (Florence), 155–156
Palazzo Pubblico (Siena), 167
Palazzo Spada (Rome), 84
Palazzo Strozzi (Florence), 149
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence), 147
Palladio, Andrea, 22, 206, 217, 218
accommodations around, 42–44
restaurants around, 53–55
Papal audiences, 71
Paradiso Perduto (Venice), 226
Parco Appia Antica (Rome), 99–100
Parioli (Rome), 34
restaurants, 57–58
Parking, 232–233
Florence, 113
Ostia Antica, 107
Pompeii, 108
Pasticceria Nobile (Venice), 226
Pecile (Tivoli), 110
Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice), 212–213
Pharmacies, 237
Florence, 118
Rome, 38
Piazza Barberini (Rome), 34, 90, 91
accommodations, 46–47
exploring around, 90–92
restaurants, 56–57
Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta (Rome), 77
Piazza dei Cinquecento (Rome), 29
Piazza del Campo (Siena), 167
Piazza del Duomo
Pisa, 169
San Gimignano, 171
Siena, 167
Piazza della Cisterna (San Gimignano), 171
Piazza della Repubblica (Florence), 115
Piazza della Rotonda (Rome), 82
Piazza della Signoria (Florence), 115, 146
accommodations near, 122
exploring around, 142–149
restaurant near, 130
Piazza del Popolo (Rome), 85
Piazza di Spagna (Rome), 85, 87
Piazzale delle Corporazioni (Ostia Antica), 107
Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence), 157
Piazza Navona (Rome), 33, 80–81, 103
Piazza San Marco (Venice), 221–222
Piazza San Pietro (Rome), 103
Piazza Santa Croce (Florence), 154–155
Piazza Santa Maria Novella (Florence), exploring around, 150–152
Piazza Santa Trínita (Florence), 115
accommodations near, 122
Piazza Santissima Annunziata (Florence), 115–116, 154
Piazza Santo Spirito (Florence), 116, 158–159
Piero della Francesca, 22, 142
Pinacoteca (Rome), 68
Pitti Palace (Florence), 155–156
Planning your trip, 230–240
Police
Florence, 118
Rome, 38
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs; Venice), 208
Ponte Santa Trínita (Florence), 149
Ponte Vecchio (Florence), 148
Pontificio Instituto di Musica Sacra (Rome), 103
Porta Portese (Rome), 102
Post offices
Florence, 118
Venice, 180–181
Prati (Rome), 33
accommodations, 40–41
restaurants, 50–51
Priori dei Cavalieri di Malta (Rome), 77
Punta della Dogana (Venice), 213
Pyrgi Tablets (Rome), 90
R
Raphael, 22, 69, 82–85, 89, 91, 98, 143, 156
Raphael Rooms (Rome), 69
Raphael salon (Rome), 69
Regata Storica (Venice), 27
Regolini-Galassi tomb (Rome), 68
Rental in Rome (Rome), 39
Rental in Venice, 184
RentXpress, 126
Restaurants
best, 2
Florence, 126–136
Ostia Antica, 107
Padua, 228
Pisa, 170
Rome, 49–62
San Gimignano, 171–172
Siena, 168
Tivoli, 111
Venice, 191–202
Verona, 229
Rialto Bridge (Venice), 209
Rivoire (Florence), 164
Rolling Venice, 212
Roma&Più Pass, 29
Roma Capitale, 32
Roman (Verona), 229
Roman Reference (Rome), 39
Roman Theater (Fiesole), 159
Rome, 28–105. See also specific neighborhoods
accommodations, 38–49
by price, 39–40
self-catering apartments, 38–39
cuisine, 15
day trips from, 106–111
entertainment and nightlife, 102–105
exploring, 63–100
Centro Storico and the Pantheon, 80–92
the Colosseum, Forum and Ancient Rome, 72–80
index of attractions and sites, 63–64
organized tours, 98–99
St. Peter’s and the Vatican, 64–71
around Stazione Termini, 92–93
Testaccio and southern Rome, 94–96
Trastevere, 96–98
Tridente and the Spanish Steps, 85–88
Via Veneto and Piazza Barberini, 90–92
views to remember for a lifetime, 77
Villa Borghese and Parioli, 88–90
getting around, 35–37
for kids, 99–100
layout, 32–33
neighborhoods in brief, 33–34
restaurants, 49–62
Centro Storico and the Pantheon, 53–55
by cuisine, 49–50
gelato, 62
meal times, 49
around Termini, 58–59
Testaccio, 60–62
Trastevere, 59–60
Tridente and the Spanish Steps, 55–56
Vatican City and Prati, 50–51
Via Veneto and Piazza Barberini, 56–57
Villa Borghese and Parioli, 57–58
shopping, 100–102
suggested itineraries, 5–12
visitor information, 32
Royal Apartments (Florence), 156
S
Safety, 239
Florence, 118
Rome, 38
Venice, 181
Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy; Florence), 149–150
Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy; Florence), 150
St. Anthony of Padua, 228
Saint Catherine of Siena (Rome), 83
St. Paul Outside the Walls (Rome), 94–95
St. Peter in Chains (Rome), 79
St. Peter’s Basilica (Rome), 65–67
St. Peter’s Square (Piazza San Pietro; Rome), 65–66
Sala dei Cinquecento (Florence), 147
Sala di Constantino (Rome), 69
San Clemente (Rome), 79
San Francesco (Fiesole), 159
San Francesco d’Assisi a Ripa (Rome), 98
San Frediano (Florence), 116
exploring, 155–159
restaurants, 134–135
San Gimignano, 170–172
San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice), 217–218
San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome), 79
San Lorenzo (church; Florence), 150
San Lorenzo and the Mercato Centrale (Florence), 115
accommodations near, 122
exploring around, 149–150
restaurants near, 130–131
San Luigi dei Francesi (Rome), 82
San Marco (museum; Florence), 153, 164
San Marco (Venice), 177
accommodations, 184–185
restaurants, 195–196
San Marco/Santissima Annunziata neighborhood (Florence), 115
accommodations near, 124–125
exploring around, 152–154
restaurants, 132–134
San Miniato al Monte (Florence), 157
San Niccolò (Florence), 116
exploring, 155–159
restaurants, 134–135
San Nicolò (Venice), 220
San Paolo Fuori le Mura (Rome), 94–95
San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains; Rome), 79
San Polo (Venice), 177
accommodations, 188–189
exploring, 214–216
restaurants, 198–199
San Sebastiano (Venice), 213
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (Rome), 98
Santa Croce
accommodations near, 125–126
Venice, 177
accommodations, 189–190
exploring, 214–216
restaurant, 199
Santa Felicità (Florence), 157–158
Santa Fosca (Torcello), 219
Sant’Agnese in Agone (Rome), 81
Sant Agostino (San Gimignano), 171
Santa Maria ad Martyres (Rome), 83
Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Rome), 85
Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Venice), 216
Santa Maria del Carmine (Florence), 158
Santa Maria della Pace (Rome), 82
Santa Maria della Pietà (Venice), 224
Santa Maria della Salute (Venice), 213–214
Santa Maria della Scala (Siena), 167
Santa Maria della Vittoria (Rome), 92
Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome), 85
Santa Maria di Montesanto (Rome), 85
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Venice), 214–215
Santa Maria in Aracoeli (Rome), 80
Santa Maria in Cosmedin (Rome), 80, 100
Santa Maria in Trastevere (Rome), 98
Santa Maria Maggiore (Rome), 92
Santa Maria Novella (Florence), 115
accommodations near, 123–124
church, 151–152
Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Rome), 83
Santa Trínita (Florence), 148
exploring around, 142–149
Sant’Eustachio il Caffè (Rome), 104
SS. Giovanni e Paolo (Venice), 210
SS. Vincenzo e Anastasio (Rome), 88
Santissima Annunziata (Florence), 153–154
Santo Spirito (Florence), 158–159
Santuario della Scala Santa (Rome), 79
Sarcofago degli Sposi (Sarcophagus of the Spouses; Rome), 90
Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti. See Spanish Steps
Scoppio del Carro, 27
Scuderie del Quirinale (Scuderie Papali; Rome), 87
Scuola del Cuoio (Florence), 163
Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni (Venice), 209–210
Scuola Gladiatori Roma (Rome), 100
Scuola Grande dei Carmini (Venice), 214
Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Venice), 215–216
Seasons, 25–26
Select Italy (Rome), 63
Self-catering apartments, Rome, 38–39
Senior travel, 240
Shopping
Florence, 161–163
Rome, 100–102
Venice, 222–224
Sistine Chapel (Rome), 67–70
Smoking, 240
Soccer (football), 161
Spanish Chapel (Florence), 151
Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti; Rome), 33, 85, 87
accommodations around, 44–46
restaurants around, 55–56
Squero di San Trovaso (Venice), 214
Stanza d’Eliodoro (Rome), 69
Stanza dell’Incendio (Rome), 69
Stanze di Raffaello (Rome), 69
Stazione Santa Maria Novella (Florence), 113
Stazione Termini (Rome), 29
accommodations, 47–48
exploring, 92–93
neighborhood, 34
Stravinskij Bar (Rome), 105
Strozzina (Florence), 149
Student travel, 240
Supermercato il Centro (Florence), 126
T
Tabularium (Rome), 74
Taxes, 240
Taxis
Florence, 116–117
Rome, 36
Tazza d’Oro (Rome), 104
Teatro Comunale (Florence), 164
Teatro dell’Opera (Florence), 164
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma (Rome), 104
Teatro Grande (Pompeii), 109
Teatro La Fenice (Venice), 224
Teatro Marittimo (Tivoli), 110
Teatro Romano (Fiesole), 159
Teatro Verdi (Florence), 164
Tempietto (Florence), 151
Temple of Roma and Augustus (Ostia Antica), 107
Temple of Saturn (Rome), 77
Temple of the Dioscuri (Rome), 77
Temple of Vespasian and Titus (Rome), 76
Temple of Vesta (Rome), 77
Terme di Caracalla (Baths of Caracalla; Rome), 72
Terme di Diocleziano (Baths of Diocletian; Rome), 92–93
Terme di Nettuno (Ostia Antica), 107
Termini (Rome), restaurants, 58–59
Terrazza dell’Angelo (Rome), 70
Terrazza delle Quadrighe (Terrace of the Chariots; Rome), 80
Tesoro (Treasury; Venice), 206
Testaccio (Rome), 34
exploring, 94
restaurants, 60–62
Theatre of Lucius Cornelius Balbus (Rome), 83
The Renaissance, books about, 23
Thermopolium (Ostia Antica), 107
Through Eternity (Rome), 99
Tipping, 240
Titian, 22, 69, 84, 89, 91, 143, 156, 211, 213, 214, 216
Tivoli and the villas, 8–9, 109–111
Toilets, 240
Tomb of Cecilia Metella (Rome), 95
Torcello, 219
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower; Venice), 208–209
Torre di Arnolfo (Florence), 148
Torre Grossa (San Gimignano), 171
Tours, Pompeii, 108
Train travel, 230–231, 233–235
Florence, 113
Pompeii, 108
Venice, 174–175
Trajan’s Column (Rome), 76
Trajan’s Markets (Rome), 76, 78
Trams, Rome, 35–36
Trastevere (Rome), 34
accommodations, 48–49
exploring, 96–98
restaurants, 59–60
Treasury (Rome), 67
Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi; Rome), 88
Trevi Fountain (Rome), 103
Tridente (Rome), 33
accommodations, 44–46
exploring, 85
restaurants, 55–56
Trinità dei Monti (Rome), 87
Tuscany, wines, 19
U
Uffizi Gallery (Galleria degli Uffizi; Florence), 142–144
Umbilicus Urbus (Rome), 76
V
Valentina Moncada (Rome), 101
Vaporetti (Venice), 178
Vasari, Giorgio, 23, 84, 147–149, 157
Vatican City (Rome), 33
accommodations around, 40–41
exploring, 64–71
restaurants around, 50–51
Vatican City Post Office (Rome), 37
Vatican Gardens (Rome), 68
Vatican grottoes (Rome), 67
Vatican Museums (Rome), 63, 65, 67–68
Vatican Tourist Office (Rome), 66
Veneto wines, 19
Venice, 173–226. See also specific neighborhoods
accommodations, 181–191
addresses in, 176
arriving in, 173–175
cafes, 225
cuisine, 15
day trips from, 227–229
entertainment and nightlife, 224–226
exploring, 202–222
discounts, 212
index of attractions, 203
for kids, 220–222
organized tours, 220
getting around, 177–180
layout, 176
neighborhoods in brief, 177
restaurants, 191–202
shopping, 222–224
street maps and signage, 178
suggested itineraries, 7, 9, 13
visitor information, 175–176
Venice International Film Festival, 27, 220
Venini (Venice), 224
Vestal Virgins, House of the (Rome), 77
Via Appia Antica (Rome), 34, 95
Via Borgognona (Rome), 100–101
Via Cola di Rienzo (Rome), 101
Via Condotti (Rome), 100
Via dei Coronari (Rome), 101
Via del Corso (Rome), 101
Via Frattina (Rome), 101
Via Margutta (Rome), 101
Via Portico d’Ottavia (Rome), 84
Via Sacra (Rome), 76
Via Veneto (Rome), 33–34
accommodations, 46–47
exploring around, 90–92
restaurants, 56–57
Villa Adriana (Tivoli), 110
Villa Borghese (Rome), 34, 88–89, 99
restaurants, 57–58
Villa dei Misteri (Pompeii), 109
Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 110
Villa Farnesina (Rome), 98
Villa Gregoriana (Tivoli), 111
Visitor information
Florence, 114
Ostia Antica, 106–107
Pompeii, 108
Rome, 32
Venice, 175–176
Vittoriano (Rome), 80
Volpi e L’Uva (Florence), 165
W
Walks of Italy, 99
Weather, 26
Windows on Tuscany, 126
Wines, 19
Y
YAG Bar (Florence), 165
Accommodations
Academy Hostel (Florence), 119, 122
Ai Tagliapietra (Venice), 187
Alessandra (Florence), 122–123
Al Piave (Venice), 186
Al Ponte Antico (Venice), 190
American Dinesen (Venice), 188
Antica Dimora Johlea (Florence), 124
Antica Locanda al Gambero (Venice), 185
Aphrodite (Rome), 48
Arcadia (Venice), 190
Arco del Lauro (Rome), 48–49
Azzi (Florence), 123
Babuino 181 (Rome), 44
B&B San Marco (Venice), 187
The Beehive (Rome), 48
Bernardi (Venice), 190–191
Brunelleschi (Florence), 119
Ca’ Barba B&B (Venice), 188–189
Capitolium Rooms (Rome), 47
Capo d’Africa (Rome), 41
Casa Verardo (Venice), 186–187
Casci (Florence), 122
Checchino dal 1887 (Rome), 60
Condotti (Rome), 45
Continentale (Florence), 122
Corte Di Gabriela (Venice), 184
Daphne Trevi & Daphne Veneto (Rome), 46
Davanzati (Florence), 123
Deko Rome, 46
Del Sole al Pantheon (Rome), 43
Duca d’Alba (Rome), 42
Euro Quiris (Rome), 48
Flavio al Velavevodetto (Rome), 60
Galleria (Venice), 188
Giorgione (Venice), 190
Hotel Adriano (Rome), 45
Il Guelfo Bianco (Florence), 122
The Inn at the Roman Forum (Rome), 41–42
The Inn at the Spanish Steps (Rome), 44
Istituto Oblate dell’Assunzione (Florence), 126
La Casa di Morfeo (Florence), 125
La Dimora degli Angeli (Florence), 119
Lancelot (Rome), 42
La Residenza (Rome), 47
Locanda Fiorita (Venice), 185
Locanda Orchidea (Florence), 125
Locanda Orseolo (Venice), 185
Loggiato dei Serviti (Florence), 124
Londra Palace (Venice), 186
Metropole (Venice), 186
Morandi alla Crocetta (Florence), 124–125
Moresco (Venice), 187–188
Nicolas Inn (Rome), 42
Palazzo Galletti (Florence), 125–126
Panda (Rome), 45–46
Parlamento (Rome), 46
Pensione Accademia (Venice), 188
Pensione Guerrato (Venice), 189
Plus Florence, 123–124
Portrait Suites (Rome), 45
QuodLibet (Rome), 40–41
Raphael (Rome), 43
Relais Palazzo Taverna (Rome), 43
Residence Hilda, 124
Residenza Cellini (Rome), 47
Residenza in Farnese (Rome), 43
Residenza Leonina (Rome), 41
Residenza Paolo VI (Rome), 40
Riva Lofts (Florence), 126
Rome Armony Suites, 41
Rosso 23 (Florence), 123
San Francesco (Rome), 49
San Geremia (Venice), 191
Santa Chiara (Rome), 44
Seven Kings Relais (Rome), 47–48
Suore di Santa Elisabetta (Florence), 126
Teatro di Pompeo (Rome), 44
Tourist House Ghiberti (Florence), 125
Villa Laetitia (Rome), 40
Villa Spalletti Trivelli (Rome), 45
Violino d’Oro (Venice), 185