MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
I adore citrus flavors and love the combination of chili and orange, so making this oil was inevitable. It is a fabulous ingredient and a mainstay of my kitchen cupboard.
Choose oranges with unblemished skins that have been kept as free as possible of waxes and dyes, then wash them carefully with a light liquid detergent, warm water, and an abrasive sponge. The effort may seem kooky, but it makes a difference. So too will a sharp vegetable peeler that will pare off the flavorful skin (zest) and not the bitter white pith.
3 large oranges with unblemished skins
½ cup shockingly pungent dried red chili flakes
3 tablespoons Chinese black beans (do not rinse them), coarsely chopped
1 to 2 large cloves garlic, lightly smashed and peeled
2 cups corn or peanut oil
¼ cup Japanese sesame oil
1. Wash the oranges as described above. Peel away the thin layer of orange zest (leaving behind the white pith) and finely mince it.
2. Combine the minced zest with all of the remaining ingredients in a heavy, non-aluminum 2- to 2½-quart saucepan. Bring to 225° to 250°F on a deep-fry thermometer over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, and let bubble for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand until cool or overnight.
3. Scrape the oil and seasonings (we call these the “goop”) into a glass or plastic container, cover, and store at cool room temperature.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: Be creative with the “goop” made from the seasonings as well as the oil. A spoonful stirred into noodles or meat loaf is a tasty revelation.
The single most important tool for infusing oils successfully is a deep-fry thermometer. I use the kind with a friendly, round face about 2 inches wide that sits atop a long spoke outfitted with a kettle clamp. I never use the clamp; I simply rest the face on the rim of the pot and let the spoke dangle into the oil. Don’t think it’s a problem if the spoke touches the bottom of the pot; the temperature will still be true.
The great thing about this arrangement is you can read the oil temperature from across the room. Never one to do one thing while I could be doing two, I love the freedom to chop or read while the oil is coming to a bubble.
If you think you can do without a thermometer, you are taking a calculated risk. Even a 25-degree variance in the temperature of the oil will turn an infusion from wondrous to bitter. Figure it’s like being outside in hopes of a tan; the extra degrees take you quickly from seeming beauty to burnt.
Next and almost equal in importance to the deep-fry thermometer is a heavy pot of sufficient depth. The chosen pot must be two or three times the depth of the oil plus the aromatics you are going to infuse. For example, if you are setting about an infusion that involves 2 cups of oil and 1 cup of aromatics, you will need a pot that holds 6 cups or 1½ quarts at the minimum.
This space allows the oil to bubble up (literally) as it cooks, a fascinating eyeful if you have a big enough pot, but a dangerous experiment if you don’t. When in doubt, always choose a bigger pot. A heavy pot is mandated on account of its heating and holding qualities. It will heat slowly and steadily, just the kind of environment an infusion loves if it is to be full-flavored. It will also hold the heat even after the infusion has cooked, leaching an extra nuance of taste and perfume from the aromatics.
A non-aluminum pot is also essential for infusing vinegars, lest you wind up with an unforgettably metallic-tasting brew. It is not a problem if the pot is made with aluminum on the outside or has aluminum sandwiched in between the inner and outer surfaces, so long as the inside of the pot itself is not bare aluminum.
Likewise, non-aluminum tools are required. That Chinese mesh spoon that looks so lyric hanging on the wall and can accomplish so many wonders in Chinese cooking can undo your treasured efforts to make pickled ginger, for example, if it is made from uncoated aluminum. Such tools are rare, but it is best to play it safe: Stir your infusions with wooden chopsticks or wooden spoons, and use stainless steel sieves if needed. Likewise, chop ingredients only with a stainless steel knife or with one made from a nonreactive carbon alloy.