SERVES 6 TO 8 IN LARGE BOWLS, 10 TO 12 IN SMALL BOWLS
A very delicate soup, this has a special refinement. There is nothing showy or spicy about it, just the light and refreshing flavors of fish and ginger and the pleasant crunch of fresh water chestnuts.
For a note on fish paste, see page 360. If the fish paste or the time to make the fish balls is unavailable, you might substitute fresh scallops or prawns (velveted and poached as on page 218), or slivers of any impeccably fresh non-oily fish.
Fish balls, once made, may be held in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.
FISH BALLS:
1 pound fish paste
3 tablespoons thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
1½ tablespoons slivered fresh coriander leaves and stems
¾ teaspoon fresh ginger juice (squeezed from finely minced fresh ginger)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
4 fresh water chestnuts, cut into tiny dice
¼ teaspoon Chinese chili sauce
3 to 4 twists freshly ground black pepper
China Moon Fish Fumet (page 79)
Kosher salt
Roasted Szechwan Pepper-Salt (page 5)
Infused Glass Noodles (page 30)
⅓ cup finely shredded carrot
1 packed cup finely slivered Napa cabbage
¼ cup finely chopped Chinese or Western chives
½ cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
Coriander sprigs (figure 1 per bowl), for garnish
There are plum wines and plum wines, ranging from cough-syrup sweet to sweetly refined. If you have a choice of brand, go with the label with the least English. We use a Chinese plum wine in a clear squarish bottle that is made in Taiwan and has a gold metal cap topped with a red-stamped plum flower.
With both the plum wine and the rice wine or sherry, first taste what you’re using. If you don’t like the taste, don’t use it!
1. To make the fish balls, combine all of the ingredients through the black pepper in a food processor and process until well blended. Press plastic wrap directly on top of the mixture and chill until firm, several hours or overnight.
2. Fill a wide, deep pot or skillet two-thirds full of water. Bring to a steaming near simmer, then adjust the heat to maintain the temperature. Using a spoon dipped periodically into ice water and with a bit of ice water spread on your palm, form a scant tablespoon of paste into a ball. Slide each ball onto a lightly oiled plate, then slide 6 to 8 balls at a time into the simmering water. Poach for 1 minute after they rise to the surface, 3 to 4 minutes in all. Remove the fish balls and set aside in a single layer to cool. Once cooled, the fish balls may be sealed and refrigerated for 1 to 2 days. Bring to room temperature before adding to the soup.
3. In a non-aluminum pot, bring the fish fumet to a near simmer over moderate heat, then season with enough kosher salt to bring out the flavor of the fumet. Finish with enough pepper-salt to leave a tingle on your lips.
4. Portion the glass noodles, carrot, cabbage, chives, and scallions among the bowls. Depending on the size of the servings, add 4 to 8 fish balls per bowl, nudging them alongside or under the vegetables. Ladle the hot fumet into the bowls and place a sprig of coriander on top. Serve immediately.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: A simple meal would star this soup in tandem with a basket of heated Mandarin Breadtwists (page 66). Or, for a heartier dinner, try this soup followed by something equally clean-tasting, perhaps the Ma-La Steamed Poussin with Roasted Szechwan Pepper-Salt (page 153).