DUCK CONFIT SANDPOT

SERVES 3 TO 4 AS A MAIN COURSE, 5 TO 6 AS PART OF A MULTICOURSE MEAL

This is a cozy, mushroomy sandpot that is especially nice in the fall when you’re wanting to counter the sudden chill. It’s simple to put together, and given the requisite confit is sitting in the refrigerator and ready to use, it can be prepared and on the table within an hour. The assortment of mushrooms may include any domestic or wild varieties, such as crimini, Italian field, and/or chanterelles.


NO SHOCKS, PLEASE!

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Sandpots are delicate tools. They’ll crack if you drop them. They’ll also crack if you transfer them from a cold environment to a hot one.

If you stow your sandpot in the refrigerator (holding leftovers) or in some cold corner, allow it to warm nearly to room temperature before consigning it to the stove.

Always heat a sandpot carefully over low heat to begin, especially if you think it is any cooler than room temperature.



HOLD THE SEASONING!

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As far as I’m concerned, a sandpot requires no special seasoning before use. I’ve read here and there about the need to soak and heat them, but I’ve never done it.

With the half-dozen sandpots I’ve used at home and the hundreds we’ve bought for China Moon, the only thing I ever do is rinse them of packing dust. That’s all! Then they’re happily on their way to long, productive lives.


AROMATICS:

1 tablespoon finely minced garlic

1½ tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger

1½ tablespoons thinly sliced green and white scallion rings

¼ teaspoon dried red chili flakes

½ teaspoon finely minced orange zest

SAUCE:

2 cups Duck Infusion with Szechwan Peppercorns (page 74), China Moon Infusion (page 72), China Moon Double Stock (page 72), or unsalted duck or chicken stock

2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

10 to 12 baby carrots, split lengthwise if fat, or 1 carrot, thickly julienned

1 to 2 tablespoons corn or peanut oil, for stir-frying

1 small red onion, cut into ½-inch moons

1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

1 leek, white part only, split lengthwise, then cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick half-moons

3 ounces (1 rounded cup) shiitake mushrooms, quartered

3 ounces (1 rounded cup) oyster mushrooms, separated into smaller clusters

10 to 12 fresh morel mushrooms, quartered lengthwise

2½ cups Napa cabbage squares (1 inch)

Chunky shreds of Chinese-Style Duck Confit (page 170)

Diagonally sliced green and white scallion rings, for garnish

1. Combine the aromatics in a small bowl. Cover until ready to use. Combine all of the sauce ingredients in a bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.

2. Blanch the carrots in boiling water to cover until half-cooked, 10 to 30 seconds. Immediately plunge into ice water to chill; drain.

3. Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and swirl to glaze the pan. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a single scallion ring, reduce the heat to moderate. Add the aromatics and stir gently until fully fragrant, 20 to 30 seconds. Adjust the heat so that the aromatics foam without browning. Add the onion and bell peppers, and toss until slightly softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the leek and toss gently for 2 minutes more. Adjust the heat to maintain a merry sizzle and drizzle a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking. Add all of the mushrooms and toss to heat through, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cabbage and toss until slightly wilted, about 1 minute. Spread the vegetables on a large platter to cool.

The above may be done a day ahead. Seal and refrigerate the ingredients; bring to room temperature before use.

4. About 15 minutes before serving, layer the vegetables over the bottom of a 2- to 3-quart Chinese sandpot or other heavy casserole. Add the duck and the carrots. Stir the sauce and add it to the pot. Cover, bring to a simmer over moderate heat, and simmer gently for 8 to 10 minutes. Garnish with the scallions and serve immediately.

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MENU SUGGESTIONS: Steamed or stir-fried rice or pasta with fresh herbs and light oil are perfect partners for the sandpot. Roasted or boiled potatoes would also be wonderful, as would Wok-Seared New Potatoes (page 424), Mandarin Breadtwists (page 66), or a Broad Noodle Pillow (page 403).