SERVES 3 TO 4 AS A MAIN COURSE, 5 TO 6 AS PART OF A MULTICOURSE MEAL
This dish is a summer celebration, a trumpet note of glee when the markets are full of baby zucchini, pattypan and crookneck squashes, baby corn, fresh peas, and bouquets of green-leaved Thai basil. Summer bounty of other sorts may be happily tossed in or substituted—corn off the cob, sugar snap peas, snow peas, or plum tomatoes oven-dried as instructed on page 36, for example.
This classic Chinese stir-fry is easily prepared in advance and should not daunt even a beginner.
Basil is a member of the mint family and can be overpowering if used to excess. Nibble on a leaf to know its potency, and then start out with a conservative amount. Taste the sauce just when the dish is done—the heat of the liquid will draw out the flavor of the leaves—and if the flavor needs underlining, simply stir in a bit more basil or garnish the dish with a fine basil chiffonnade.
VELVET MARINADE AND SCALLOPS:
1 large egg white
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon cornstarch
¾ pound fresh scallops, cut in half if very large
AROMATICS:
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
1 small red Fresno chili, cut into paper-thin rings, or ½ teaspoon dried red chili flakes
SAUCE:
1½ cups China Moon Infusion (page 72), China Moon Double Stock (page 72), or unsalted chicken stock
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ pound green and/or yellow baby squash, halved if large
8 to 10 ears fresh baby corn, halved if large (if baby corn is not available, double the amount of baby squash or use 1 cup corn kernels)
½ cup shelled fresh peas
2 to 3 tablespoons corn or peanut oil, for stir-frying
1 small red onion, cut into ¼-inch half-moons
1 small red bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch strips
5 large or 10 small whole Thai basil leaves
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1½ tablespoons cold unsalted chicken stock or water
Thin, diagonally sliced green and white scallion rings, for garnish
1. In a bowl, briskly whisk the marinade ingredients through the cornstarch until thick. Add the scallops and toss well. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Let come to room temperature and re-toss before cooking.
2. Combine the aromatics in a small dish and cover until ready to use.
3. Combine all of the sauce ingredients through the sugar in a bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.
4. Bring a generous amount of water to a boil in a large pot. Blanch the baby squash, baby corn, and peas separately until the vegetables are tender-crisp; the squash and corn will take 1 to 2 minutes, the peas about 30 seconds, all depending on size; test frequently so as not to overcook. The above steps may be done a full day ahead. Seal and refrigerate the ingredients; bring to room temperature before cooking.
5. About 15 minutes before serving, bring a small pot of water to a steaming near simmer. Add the scallops, stirring to separate, and cook for 20 to 40 seconds, depending on size. Drain immediately and set aside. The scallops should be cooked on the outside but a bit raw within.
6. Heat a wok or large, heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to glaze the pan. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a scallion ring, reduce the heat to moderate and add the aromatics. Stir gently until fully fragrant, 1½ to 2 minutes, adjusting the heat so they foam without browning. Add the onion and toss until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the bell pepper strips and toss until they start to curl at the edges, about 3 minutes more. Adjust the heat to maintain a merry sizzle and drizzle a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking.
7. Add the blanched squash and baby corn, and toss to combine. Add the basil and toss to blend. As soon as the leaves begin to wilt, stir the sauce to recombine and add it to the pan. Cover the pan and bring the sauce to a simmer over high heat. Stir the cornstarch mixture and add it to the pan. Stir until the sauce turns glossy, 10 to 20 seconds. Turn off the heat. Add the scallops and the peas, and toss gently to heat through.
8. Serve immediately on heated plates of contrasting color, garnished with a scattering of the scallion rings.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: Rice, noodles, or a great loaf of bread to soak up the sauce is the only mate—other than a glass of cool, dry white wine—this dish requires. A citrus-dressed salad of slightly bitter greens would be a pleasant follow-up, if you’re wanting a palate cleanser.